Need some help with an old Blackhawk floorjack

[gkent]

I have an older Blackhawk floorjack that I've rebuilt. There are no seals between the main body, the reservoir cylinder and the end cap. I have the parts breakdown and it doesn't show or list any and I know there were none there when I first took it apart. What kind of sealer would I use there? I tried Loctite "form-a-gasket" but it never solidified enough OR the fluid dissolved it - either or, it leaked. Not enthusiastic about silicone for this application! Thanks for your help.

 

[paulsomlo]

Forum member Hiball recommends Loctite 518, I think it's a anaerobic sealer. Those rely on a metal to metal seal, which is why the tank nuts are on there so tight - like 400 to 600 ftlbs. Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and no nicks, burrs, etc.. Which model Blackhawk is it?

 

[gkent]

Model 67402 or SJ-2

400-600 ft lbs ?!?!? Where do I begin to look for someplace that can do that ?!?!?

Also, I have to wonder who would even have a proper wrench - its not a hex nut or anything to easily grip. Looks like it needs a ring spanner but finding those isn't easy either.

 

[gkent]

I just looked and Loctite 518 is what I used. It never set up - probably because most of it remained exposed to air. The contact surfaces are only the ends of the reservoir cylinder which is quite thin - probably not even 1/16" thick.

 

[paulsomlo]

Model 67402 or SJ-2

400-600 ft lbs ?!?!? Where do I begin to look for someplace that can do that ?!?!?

Also, I have to wonder who would even have a proper wrench - its not a hex nut or anything to easily grip. Looks like it needs a ring spanner but finding those isn't easy either.

SJ-2 is a good jack, I have two of them. And yes, the tank nut is a pain in the ***. You got it off, so I'm assuming you've got some means to apply lots of torque. A 3 or 4 foot pipe wrench with the jack handle lashed to it is what I use. Rather than wrenching directly on the tank nut, I used two metal dowels that sit in the scallops and rest the jaws of the pipe wrench on those - that way, I don't chew up the nut, or more importantly, the interface between tank and nut. Here's a link with pics: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232242&highlight=blackhawk

I'm sure there was a dedicated tank nut wrench for these, probably supplied to authorized repair shops by Blackhawk, but good luck finding one. The intent of the "crazy" tank nut was probably to keep DIY'ers out of there.

The 518 will cure in the absence of air in very thin cross sections; basically it serves to fill in minute gaps/voids.

 

[Mick56]

40 years ago there was an old guy in my town that fixed jacks in his garage. I was there a few times to buy parts I needed for rebuilding a few jacks that I had. He told me not to use any of the new fangled silicone products, he recommended the old soft brown, non hardening, Permatex. So that's what I always used, with no problems.

 

[HCRCnow]

Not a recommendation. This is just what we find that works very good. Dries in 30 minutes. Just use a fingerprint on both surfaces and work fast. 3M 08008

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...erstrip-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3292908126&rt=rud