Need some help with choosing a used vs new 2 post

[Fyrme]

A little more complicated than the title leads to believe. My max budget I'm looking at is $2000. I can get a brand new Atlas 9KHO for $1900 delivered. I found a used Rotary SPOA9 (true asymmetrical 30° posts) for $1000. I am 1.5ft short on the recommended 15' mounting dimensions from the posts to the door, but I called Rotary and they said it would not be a problem. Also I would have to drive 3hrs round trip as well as take the lift down myself (which also has its benifits).

I know Rotary is superior to the Atlas, which is the only reason I'm considering it. The other possible draw back is the asymmetrical posts. Most people don't seem to care much for them. The most weight I ever see myself lifting is a 21' crewcab short bed gasser.

I'm hoping I can get some feed back from some of you that have bought a used lift and/or own a asymmetrical lift with 30° posts.

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[MrSurly]

Grab the Rotary
In a heartbeat; in the choices that you have specified, I would have zero issues with it.

I bought a used (VERY used) Worth lift (USA made) that’s asymmetric and I have no problems with asymmetric lifts. Mini Cooper to DuraMax Crew on mine, 13’ 2” door to posts. No issues.

I don’t have specific knowledge of the Rotary you are buying but I know that it’s a safe bet that it costs a lot more than 2k when new and you can rest assured that any *brand new* lift for less than 1700 is NOT comparable in quality.
Also, the Rotary has the extra cost Trio arms.... yesssssssss

As I’ve stated many times, a lift is a Simple Machine; you can usually SEE the comparative quality of them in how well they’re built and the materials used.
Not a lot of secrets.


I keep editing and adding..... Hell yes. That Rotary is 4500 bux new.

Are you on the way yet?

 

[Buckgnarly]

Used Rotary for sure....parts available, better build. We have Rotaries at school from 1996 that we just got rebuild cylinders for and new flip pads, good as new after that.

 

[Fyrme]

I'm not sure what Trio arms are. I looked them up but what I found look different. New design I suppose. If you only have 13'-2" and are able to get a big Duramax Chevy on there, I feel better.

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[Fyrme]

I'm supposed to go pick it up tomorrow unless someone convinces me otherwise. I guess the whole Asymetrical thing is what has be gun shy. In typical GJ form, one half says they work fine for trucks while the other half say "Don't buy one, YOU WILL DIE IN A RAGING BALL OF FIRE!"

I just found out it is at a Sears auto service center that is going out of business. I thought they were all gone by now. Knowing this, I'll be sure to take some extra cash incase they have something else I can't live without

 

[MrSurly]

the other half say "Don't buy one, YOU WILL DIE IN A RAGING BALL OF FIRE!"

They reserve that for Spray Foam insulation and any form of heating or cooling that isn’t a mini-split.



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[MrSurly]

Don’t be tempted by brake lathes or tire balancers... but grab any lift-height jack stands and oil drain carts. Plus parts washers, compressor, maybe a roller battery charger.


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[Fyrme]

The Jack stands and oil drain pans are a great idea. Even though I can change the oil without a jack on 3 of my 4 vehicles in less than 10 min. and not even spill a single drop from the oil filter. Hardly worth putting them up on a lift. My 4x4 F-1-Filthy on the other hand is a *****!

 

[pattenp]

I'd be very weary of a used life from an auto service center. Be sure of the condition that you won't be spending $$ on near future repairs on the lift.

 

[koditten]

I'm the opposite. I have an Atlas and it does everything I need. I don't have to deal with the bull **** of picking the thing up at the former owners place and I don't have to worry if parts are worn or missing.

Rotory may be the Mac Daddy of lifts, but I dont need bragging rights.

Sorry, the Atllas wins for me.

 

[Kaizen]

My rule is on new tools or equipment that I have never used before I buy new. Otherwise something could be wrong and I’d never know it


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[rburke65]

I’d buy the Rotary!

 

[Bdflies]

I’ve had an Atlas for a few years. Works perfectly, have had zero trouble with it. I consider it among the best tool purchases, in a very large group of such purchases!

Bill

 

[isb cornbinder]

For the small amount of savings I would never entertain buying a used lift. If you buy new, it is delivered and sometimes assembled.
Do you know enough about the lift so you can identify a potential problem. The title of this thread would suggest you should buy a new lift.
You will be responsible for taking the used lift apart, moving and reassembly. A used lift may not have any OEM support.

 

[koditten]

Frankly, I have no idea how sellers of used lifts can demand the prices they ask. There are too many "what ifs" involved with a used lift.

If the price was near the $1k mark, I might consider it.

It may be a Rotory, but its still just used shop tools.

 

[Buckgnarly]

There's not a whole lot that can go wrong with the Rotary, and taking it down lets you check it first.

OP, here's what to look for, we have our lifts inspected every year and had 2 of them from 95 and 96 fixed last year....
1. The splined arm locks can and do wear out, check those. Ours had quite a few teeth missing...cost was about 75 a side, 150 total.
2. Raise the lift and make sure the arms stay level....easy if you just put the arms inward and as close to tips touching as possible. Watch it as it goes up and make sure they stay same distances from tip to tip.
3. Look for leaks from the hydraulic cylinder. Our was leaking, we had the whole cylinder replaced instead of rebuild...IIRC it was about 3 or 400, but rebuild kit was closer to 75ish.
4. The center post that holds the flip pads and the bolt can wear, making rhe flip pads loose. We had 4 replaced, I think they were 150 each.
5. The plastic slides on the carriage can wear, might even want to replace them when you have it apart.

It's a big chunk of metal with hydraulics, not much to go wrong and parts are available and probably always will be available from Rotary.

 

[crook038]

Rotary for sure. I purchased my Rotary SPOA9 (2002 build date) used from a closed shop at auction. Taking it down was pretty straight forward. Take lots of pictures, a picture is worth a thousand words. I disconnected the electrical, then the hydraulics. I then disconnected the leveling cable along with the lock cable system. Lastly I removed the top beam and unbolted from the floor. I was able to tilt each post and slide a 2x4 on the flat under the base so when I brought the post down, it cleared the floor anchors. Once up on the 2x4, I measured out and stacked up 3 used tires for cushion and dropped the post down onto it. Simple and no worries that someone would get hurt. Once the posts were on the ground I used dollies from HF to move them onto the trailer, an engine hoist works as well. I purchased the new floor anchors as well as a wheel spotting dish from Amazon and installed in reverse. If you contact Rotary they will send you the manual for your particular lift, it has all the layout measurements to make it easy. Good luck.
Sean

 

[Fyrme]

There's not a whole lot that can go wrong with the Rotary, and taking it down lets you check it first.

OP, here's what to look for, we have our lifts inspected every year and had 2 of them from 95 and 96 fixed last year....
1. The splined arm locks can and do wear out, check those. Ours had quite a few teeth missing...cost was about 75 a side, 150 total.
2. Raise the lift and make sure the arms stay level....easy if you just put the arms inward and as close to tips touching as possible. Watch it as it goes up and make sure they stay same distances from tip to tip.
3. Look for leaks from the hydraulic cylinder. Our was leaking, we had the whole cylinder replaced instead of rebuild...IIRC it was about 3 or 400, but rebuild kit was closer to 75ish.
4. The center post that holds the flip pads and the bolt can wear, making rhe flip pads loose. We had 4 replaced, I think they were 150 each.
5. The plastic slides on the carriage can wear, might even want to replace them when you have it apart.

It's a big chunk of metal with hydraulics, not much to go wrong and parts are available and probably always will be available from Rotary.

Thanks. I'll have my phone with me and use your check list. The plan is to look it over good, then put my 1/2 ton crewcab on it and lift it a few feet and look for problems. If all is good, it'll be me, a ladder, and a chain fall to take it down. Gonna unbolt a posts, lift it straight up, back the trailer under it an lower it down. Then repeat on the other side. Easy peasy, right? [emoji4] I'll report back!

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[Fyrme]

Sorry Crook I meant to quote you I'm my above post too.

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[crook038]

Sorry Crook I meant to quote you I'm my above post too.

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No worries. Sounds like you have an excellent plan of attack. FYI, the anchor kit I bought on Amazon came with shims as well. The great thing about Rotary lifts is the availability of parts for even older lifts. Good luck
Sean

 

[Fyrme]

3 1/2 hrs work. 95% by myself. I did finally get one of the 6 guys standing around to volunteer to work the chain fall while I lowered them to onto the trailer. They had 2 to choose from. Only wear/damage was the splines on the arm locks, but they still work fine. Super quiet and lifts like a dream. Wish I could have got some good pics of the loading process, but since I had help, I didn't stop for pictures. Oh, and random fact, a old 1/2ton Ford 4x4 in 4 low can drag a completely full 30' roll off for days if you need to. Well at least 100ft anyway. [emoji3] It was heeding my access and progress. **** had to go!

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[Fyrme]

Oh also, if any one needs a big commercial compressor or air drier, they will make you a smoking deal. They are at the Sears auto center in Joplin Missouri. They have to be out by the end of the week so they are pushing hard to sell them. The price dropped $100 from the time I got there to the time I left. I have the guys info.

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[ericlar80]

Nobody says you can't take additional precaution. You could come up with a custom adapter for the lift for your car/truck, or strap/clamp the frame to the lift. In a production shop it's not really feasible, but totally doable in a home shop.