Need some help with my new table saw.

[AceofSpad3s]

Hello everyone, today I bought a craftsman table saw of cl listed for $25 got it for $20 and I need some help. Here is the album http://imgur.com/a/0XmT0 Sorry if there are any formatting issues in the post.

The previous owner said that her dad used it professionally and gave it to her 8 years ago and has been used only a few times since. It is in pretty nice shape besides the base and the top being dirty. I tested it and it ran good besides the board I tested had difficulty being cut. I assume that it is a combination of the top being dirty and the blade being old, plus the scrap was painted so I will do a test tomorrow with a 2x4. Both the blade and the saw have the sears craftsman logo so I think it is pretty old. Also can anyone tell me the date range on that style of logo, I can only find that it started being used in the late 70's.

Anyone know how old it is? I used sears chat and they said it was made in 07 but that is bs. I am guessing mid-late 80's since the top is not cast like the 70's ones I have seen. The model is 113.298051 and the date code on it is 40.88.M0454.

Any idea of how many hp it is? I checked the motor and saw no hp listed, it is direct drive.

Anyone know of a cheap place to get leveling feet? 3 of the feet I was able to get off but the last one looked like it sat in a puddle. I used some pb on it and had no luck, ended up going to town on it with my sawzall and managed to get it off. I plan on cleaning up the old ones on my block grinder. The nuts used were 3/4 and I think the shaft was 9/16.

Any suggestions for blades? I am going to use it for general purpose stuff like 2x4s and sheet goods. I don't want to spend any more than $30 on the blade, but I would prefer less.

I am pretty happy with it even though it is direct drive and it is very clean by my standards. It is replacing my 50's craftsman saw but it is only a table saw in theory, the fence on it was not even square. I don't know what I will do with the old one, I might just make it into a table or something neat since it isn't worth much as is.

Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.

 

[Ray-CA]

I like the Diablo brand of blades for typical homeowner type use. It's cheaper to just replace the blades these days then to have them sharpened.

Ray

 

[AceofSpad3s]

I like the Diablo brand of blades for typical homeowner type use. It's cheaper to just replace the blades these days then to have them sharpened.

Ray

I use them on my milwaukee circ saw and like them. Is 24t good enough for a table saw or should I be looking at something finer like 40?

 

[Aerogt01]

Are you ripping? Cross cutting? Cutting panels of sheet goods? Do you need a glue line finish?

If you don't know the answer, Frued (Diablo) makes an absolutely wonderful general purpose blade. Have it in my DW745. It has a pattern of five teeth and a large gullet.

 

[AceofSpad3s]

Are you ripping? Cross cutting? Cutting panels of sheet goods? Do you need a glue line finish?

If you don't know the answer, Frued (Diablo) makes an absolutely wonderful general purpose blade. Have it in my DW745. It has a pattern of five teeth and a large gullet.

To be honest, I don't really know what I am going to do with it. I think mostly ripping and some cross cutting.

 

[Ray-CA]

The more teeth the finer the cut. I use a 24-tooth carbide blade for general cutting and jump to at least a 48-tooth blade for ply and laminate.

Hope this helps.

Ray

 

[thebeekeeper1]

I think you would be better off rebuilding the old one. They are readily repaired and MUCH better.

 

[TomB19]

I use them on my milwaukee circ saw and like them. Is 24t good enough for a table saw or should I be looking at something finer like 40?

I like a 40 tooth ATB combination blade and rarely change it. They are pretty good for both ripping and cross cutting.

Personally, I would get a decent blade. I run FS Tool blades. They are a great blade and have thick carbide that is good for plenty of sharpenings. It costs me $14 to sharpen but a good blade will cut a lot of wood before requiring a regrind. I cut a lot of stuff and I can go a couple of years between sharpening.

 

[AceofSpad3s]

I think you would be better off rebuilding the old one. They are readily repaired and MUCH better.

Trust me, it is not worth the bother. It is a 8 1/4 saw with no base, a none working fence, angle iron motor mount, 1/2hp motor held by 2 bolts,no wings on it at all. The thing sounds like the devil when it is on, probably because the pulley attached blade shaft is cockeyed. But it was free, so its got that going for it.

 

[Nowater]

Learn how to align the blade to the rip fence and set the crosscut fence. I believe on your saw you move the trunnions. If you don't you can get a dangerous kickback.

There are instructions on Youtube and elsewhere.

 

[larry_g]

If that is a 10" blade saw, one thing I would do is put an 8" blade on it. It's like gaining 50% in hp. Most of the time the 8" blade will raise to cut a 2x material. To check raise the blade you have now to full height. If it clears the top of a 2x more that 1" then you can go to a 2" smaller blade.

You are going to want more than one blade. Different situations require a different blade.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[hangfirew8]

I'm guessing the 40th week of 1988 by that date code. If that's the owner's manual, look for a copyright date on it. It'll get you in the right ball park. If it's from the 80's, it probably has a thicker kerf blade, and you can get an instant boost by putting a thin kerf blade on it. Less wood removed, less work for the motor, but things still get cut.

What is the amp rating on the motor? If it's close to 15A aka 1.5HP I would just put a good carbide thin kerf 10" on it. If it's a 1/2HP than go for the 8". In any case you'll want multiple blades for it, but a middle of the road tooth count in a quality carbide blade will do most of the work. I second the Diablo suggestion.

And yes, alignment is everything, for safety, cut quality, lack of wood burning, smooth finish, and accurate work. That fence will not sufficiently self-align on each lockdown, check it and correct it every single time you move it.

Owner's manual: http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/pd_download/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0807004.pdf

Manual has a date of 5/87 on it which jives with my date guess above. It has good instructions on alignment, and the usual suggestion of making your own fingerboard. Since it is an older machine, I would follow the advice on lubrication and putting a fresh coat of automotive wax on the table.

 

[FMC1959]

I agree with the above advice for a 40 tooth general purpose, should cover most of your cuts till you get into finer work, 24 tooth will be a bit rougher with a 10" blade IMO.

Freud are great and their sub-band Avanti, you might get 2 blades for $30 when they have deals at HD. Haven't tried them, but I would think if you find a deal on Dewalt 2-Pack, they should be good also. I mention the 2-Packs because often they will have have a fine & general purpose at a good price.

 

[FMC1959]

Also, I didn't see the pics for the table top but unless it is horrendous, some steel wool should clean it great. Then you can apply some wax or they sell special sprays for table saws, routers...etc. that have a wax type product and anti corrosion protector.

 

[woody 73]

I will see if I can help you out.

Funny story so listen up after several moves my saw lost one of the leveling feet so I called up sears and they sent me a replacement leveling leg; I thought son of a gun you fools sent me a washing machine part and so they did. Turns out that is what they went to, so if you walk into any washing machine parts store their self levering parts will fit your saw; sounds crazy but that is what they were thinking.

Sears back in the 80's was selling cheap saws and believe it or not they had cheap, cheaper and down right **** models of which you got the bottom of the barrel as they say just thin sheet metal.

Use it you got it for a great price!

 

[engineer2]

The one I rebuilt was one of the big cast iron ones and the legs would get bendy when you rolled it around. I used some half-inch conduit and connected all the legs together above the casters. The owner was very grateful.

 

[hangfirew8]

Sears back in the 80's was selling cheap saws and believe it or not they had cheap, cheaper and down right **** models of which you got the bottom of the barrel as they say just thin sheet metal.

Use it you got it for a great price!

This is (was?) the Sears way! LOL

If you want to learn just what can be done with a really cheap table saw, there is a UK site dedicated to a certain Ryobi saw/router combo also sold by Craftsman... OK they changed their name to sawdustzone dot org (not sure what the linking policy to other forums is here). They've calmed down a bit but they were rabid cheap saw/small shop/make-do DIY'ers. A good crew as long as you didn't put down cheap tools.