Need some Machining help

[mayday0017]

I have been needing a small part machined for months and can't find anyone locally who will actually do it. Several people have said they would but no one has came through. I have had one shop that I am pretty sure would do it but they are almost asking for my first born for something that is VERY VERY simple to machine. So with that said it just dawned on me maybe I should ask one of my GJ friends if they would be up to helping me out on it?

I don't have a picture on me but I can explain it very easily.

It would be roughly a 1"x1" square block of aluminum this part won't be critical tolerance and would provide more exact measurement. It will then have a roughly 3/4" hole drilled/bored into it, this would be the more critical dimension as it has an oring that seals up against the ID. Then there would be a hole drilled and tapped on the outside.

The way it works is the block will be welded to a water jacket, then there is a tube with oring that slips inside, and it has a tab that sticks off the tube with a hole in it to put a bolt through to hold the tube inside the block.

Can anyone help me out?

 

[383 240z]

Can you sketch it out on paper and post a photo of it? I'm sure I could make some chips for you. Keith

 

[hh76]

Do you have a drawing? I'm not a machinist, but have parts made occasionally. Seems like it's tough to get anyone to do anything without good drawings. When it comes to oral instructions, there's always a little lost in translation, and they don't want to be stuck redoing something because they produced a part that wasn't exactly like what you had in your head.

 

[larry_g]

Where are you located? I may be just down the road and would help you out. I have a hack saw and a rusty ole file and a couple of old machines. Are we to assume that the 3/4" hole does not have an O-Ring grove in it and the piece sliding in has the o-ring groove?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mayday0017]

Here is a picture of how it is as cast, the plan is to cut off the part square and weld the new part on. The other option is to cut it off and just weld a piece of tubing on and use a rubber hose and cut the metal line that comes out. I prefer to keep things fitting stock though whenever possible just to keep repairs simple in the future. This motor has 1,500 miles on it, it just looks pretty nasty from sitting outside for a couple years....

View media item 28200

 

[383 240z]

Is that a heater bypass hose? What about taping the hole, and putting a hose barb in? Keith

 

[mayday0017]

Where are you located? I may be just down the road and would help you out. I have a hack saw and a rusty ole file and a couple of old machines. Are we to assume that the 3/4" hole does not have an O-Ring grove in it and the piece sliding in has the o-ring groove?

lg
no neat sig line

Sorry I have finally got around to putting my location on my signature. Been meaning to do that for over a year now....

You are correct, the o-ring goes on the other part, this part is just nice and smooth inside, really not much to making this. Might could do it with a band saw & a drill press honestly. Only concern I have is getting the ID tight enough for the o-ring to seat right against it. On a hole that big I'm not sure it could be done with a drill bit, I would assume it would need to be bored.

 

[mayday0017]

Here are 2 more pics I had on my phone...

View media item 28201View media item 28202

 

[mayday0017]

Easiest fix would be to weld a short piece of aluminum tubing on and use hose clamps and a rubber hose.... But with the part being such an easy piece to machine, it would be my prefered method of repair, then everything would always fit like it was designed and I wouldn't have to try and find a rubber hose that is bent to the shape I would need to clear everything and connect back up to the metal line.

 

[383 240z]

I doubt you will be able to hold tight enough tolerance by drilling that hole. I would drill it under size and use a boring head to cut the finished ID. Keith

 

[383 240z]

Also would need to know the OD of the o-ring you plan on using, so that you will end up with a nice slip fit. also need to know the placement of the locking bolt. It's a simple piece, but it has a few critical dims on it. Keith

 

[Cedge]

Mayday
The problem is pretty obvious. you're wanting someone to make a one off piece and you want it for cheap. Any machinist who makes his daily bread at these black arts is going to charge you for a setup fee that is likely to exceed the value of the small part you're wanting. He's definitely not going to tear down a existing production run for a single small widget, unless it makes him money that covers profit, setup and machine time, materials and any lost production. Then, when it doesn't fit like it should, it becomes "his problem" until it does.

You might want to reconsider the welding idea.

You'd need a friendly beer loving hobby machinist if you have any hope to move to the head of the line.

 

[mayday0017]

Cedge
This thread is asking if anyone on here can/would do the work. I am willing to pay some for their time too. The part is VERY VERY simple, Really all I need is someone to drill & bore the center hole. The rest I can take care of with a band saw, and drill press + a tap. There is no real setup time on this... it is not going to be a CNC part. and there is not any complicated angles. You would put a piece of aluminum bar in a mill, drill a hole, come down with your boring bar and bore to the finished dimension supplied to you. So long as you did this right you did your part.

Keith,
I will supply all dimensions, however I don't have them on me at this second since I am at work. If you are interested in doing the work let me know. All I need is the center hole bored everything else can be done by hand. Thank you for confirming my comment that it would need to be drilled then finished bored to hold tolerence needed fot he o-ring to seal. I figured there was no way a drill bit could hold it on a hole this size, if it was a small hole it probably could but something this large doubtful. Shoot me a PM with what you would charge just for the block with a hole in it to my dimensions. Also if you are intrested in doing the other features let me know. I would supply dimensions and cut off the head of the tubing that goes in so you can have it for reference as well.

 

[joshuaz223]

Send me dimensions and I will whip one out for $20 or the Pepsi equivalent. I love to play with my tools and this will get me out in the garage. I assume you would want 6061 for welding to that casting?

 

[Cedge]

Mayday
I didn't mean to sound critical. Simply saying that you'll need to find a machinist with no work on the books or a hobby guy/ buddy who is doing it for entertainment. The commercial shops price small jobs like this quite high, mostly so that you are the one saying no, instead of them having to say it.

 

[mayday0017]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I will try and take some dimensions this weekend and send out some PM's

 

[Zeke]

Mayday
I didn't mean to sound critical. Simply saying that you'll need to find a machinist with no work on the books or a hobby guy/ buddy who is doing it for entertainment. The commercial shops price small jobs like this quite high, mostly so that you are the one saying no, instead of them having to say it.

I don't think he specified any particular level of talent or shop setup. Just someone who could help the chap out. I'm taking delivery of a 3 in 1 machine tomorrow that needs a little TLC. The price was well in line with that aspect.

As such, if mayday was a neighbor, I would have done that for just satisfaction.

I have had my experience with bigger shops. I had a short production run to do on parts for VW engines back in 2005. I couldn't get anyone to even take a 2nd look. Most of them are out of business now.

Doesn't bother me a bit.

 

[rlitman]

I doubt you will be able to hold tight enough tolerance by drilling that hole. I would drill it under size and use a boring head to cut the finished ID. Keith

You are correct. For an o-ring fit, you will absolutely need to bore the hole.
Anything with more than one cutting edge will make a hole that is unacceptably out of round (two fluted drill bits make holes that are biased to a trilobular shape).

More importantly, whatever dimensions this is done perfectly to, will be thrown all to heck when this part is welded on.

Listen to everyone who says to install a hose barb. Either cut and tap into what you have, or weld a barb on.

 

[mayday0017]

I appreciate everyone's concern with my approach. It is logical concern as well... However I am stubborn and have done this many times with much more critical dimensions with great results.

So Plan A is to machine this and make it all work like it did as cast & machined from the factory.

Plan B is cut it back off and weld a piece of tubing on there to attach a hose to.

But there is no real reason not to try plan A first, I am very confident it will work out just fine. It has in the past for me on more risky/complicated parts. And it is my time and money that I am taking a chance with... But thanks for the advice.

I am not trying to be rude but honestly I don't want opinions of how I should fix this and what would work best. I know how I want to tackle it and just want to know if there is a member on here who would be kind enough to machine this little piece for me for a reasonable price. Nothing more Nothing less….

 

[Ign]

I have to agree about the drawing. I rarely take jobs, even simple jobs, without a hand drawn print. Then it's their problem if it doesn't fit. I learned the hard way.

I'd normally offer to help the OP if I weren't already backed up on work.

 

[Cedge]

Zeke
Congrats on the 3 in 1. A little TLC often goes a long way. Just sold my mini lathe and will be selling the mini mill soon. Bought an SX3 mill and a C4 lathe a while back and need a bit more room.

I have done and still do "work for the church" when asked. I've also been down the pike with rejected VW projects. Part the reason for buying my own machines and tooling.

Mayday
Good luck. Hope you find a source.

 

[gorilla]

I can't tell from the photos if the "bar" can be removed from the engine. If it can a better approach would be to weld first and then do the machine work. Any weld induced distortion could be dealt with as part of the machining.

 

[rsanter]

Who is going to weld this for you?
You are? A friend is?
If you can do the TIG welding I would weld the existing part up and the remachine the hole to spec.
Just an opinion
If you screw that up then you go to the weld a block on

Bob

 

[gloveman132]

Send me a drawing, I will make it for you.

 

[strike a poser]

I can't believe nobody has commented on welding on the new piece to the corroded head. That in itself will be a nightmare. If you sandblast the head first you might stand a chance of a good weld but it will still be a challenge due to it being cast. I would be more inclined to do the tap the hole and use a barb suggestion.

 

[Firefyter-Emt]

Uh yea, you beat me to it... that is a whole world of ugly trying to "fix" that spot by welding alone. That is solid cast to the head... what is the plan to remove what is left, a grinder? Then weld a block onto the head and "hope" the hole stays true to a o-ring fit? IMHO, it will never work and make a ****** mess trying to do it. There is a step in the bottom of the hole that the coolant line "stops" against, but that alone is not enough to tap and retain the barbed fitting. That needs to be welded up, drilled and tapped for a barbed fitting. Or, have the head off and worked on a mill to remove the block, and machine the hole after the new block is welded on. Crazy to attempt it any other way....

 

[Nealcrenshaw]

Check Craigslist in the skilled trade services section there are guys who advertise welding and machining.

They'll be willing to work with and not charge like a big machine shop