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Need some ratchet advice

Tallpilot

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Thanks everyone,

Everyone's post are very relevant and on point. For some background, I grew up with a dad who never hired anyone and we were his work crew. We had some property with some acres and every weekend was work instead of instead of enjoying the country. I loved it, I'm not complaining.

My dad did OK, engineer for Ford, so you think he'd know the value of quality tools-he did not. He was pretty cheap and bought cheap tools. So I grew up using **** tools and was so envious when I'd go to a friends house and use their dads tools that fit, functioned so well. Like a different world.

HF came around and he was like a crackhead. Bags and bags of the stuff would come home. Not because he needed it, or wanted it-because it was cheap. I'm not talking about one of everything, like two or three because holy ****, with this coupon I get 30 screwdrivers for $10.99.

So his garage is like a HF store, seriously. So that and the usually box store stuff is what I have. I've had things going on the last few years where I'm using that stuff and every time I'm like "nope, junk, hate it, horrible fit, going to get some good stuff."

So during this time off I've had tons of things going on from rotating tire, to shelves going up to a simulator racing rig fabrication and so on.

The HF drill bits wouldn't go through much, dull and weak. Yes I know about speed, lube, heat etc. Two broke easily so I bought some Milwaukee cobalt and it was like butter from there on out. Those aren't even that good. I am aware of the user error factor. I don't think that was it. Putting in shelves using theirs and Ryobi bits was ridiculous. I've put up some decks up and understand drill pressure, correct bit size, cam out quality of fasteners etc. After drilling pilot hole, could hardly get a #10x2 1/2" in.

Dremel stuff. Screw sheared as soon as I touched to wheel to the object. Wheels failed in seconds.

Simple oil change. Fit and play in sockets was horrible, yes I got the job done just fine.

Tire rotation There's a picture of the socket after I was done:

The Jig saw blades I bought, this that and the other. JUNK.

So I researched and researched on your site and went on a mission to make a basic tool box of the best stuff I can afford.

So far:

Screwdrivers, Wera set of 6 with hex shaft and laser tip. PB Swiss was just a little too much and possibly have smelly handles. Amazing. Those fasteners that stripped out on the shelves. They were pretty gone. Tried to get a set of pliers to bite to back out, couldn't. The laser tip on the #3 grabbed and backed it out and there was hardly anything left. Smile from ear to ear.

Pliers set NWS with the good handles. Couldn't believe how they gripped. Cut through thick wires like nothing. No death grips to only come away with some partial cut crimped wire like with my current junk. Wish I got the Knipex for combination pliers but I'm OK.

Allen Keys, PB Swiss and Wera. Amazing fit compared to HF set. Wera Hex Plus actually makes a difference.

I've made some other purchases but you get the idea. These tools are life changing almost. They're amazing and I have a smile every time I use them on by brief little BS thing I'm doing.

So I'm just moving on to ratchets now. Like I said really researched on this site and googled each individual. SO, GW 90 and 120, Proto precision 90, Matco 88, SK for their 40970,40971, Armstrong maxx, Store brands, HF pro and Icon and many more.

Consensus seems to be overall the SO dual 80's. The Nepros came up quite a few time and many have said it's the best ratchet they ever used including current dual 80 owners. They only have QR ratchets so I spent a day going over QR vs non QR. Flex vs. Non Flex and standard vs. long version.

The reality is I'm not a mechanic and won't be squeezing these things in tight spaces much. The reality is I'm not a mechanic and will not be using abusing and testing these things daily. I'm not even the biggest DIY guy. I could use anything and it would be good enough and I wouldn't notice any of the differences in tooth count, back drag and more. I could go to Walmart and get theirvHyper Tough or Hart or HF and get their pro stuff, HD and get Husky or get some Kobalt and it would be way more than sufficient for the ocasional use they get.

I'm aware there is some stuff you can get from HF and some stuff you can't. Some of the stuff I've used gets the job done. Don't buy any cutting tools for sure.

I've just decided I want my forever ratchets in a 1/4 and 3/8 and I will back fill a 1/2 with a GW or something. I was looking at SK but the recent reviews on their ratchets and sockets are horrible. Like NO QC whatsoever.

For sockets I am getting Williams for the quality for the price for USA and Snap on connection.

I don't see any value for a tinkerer like me to fill up my Box with SO. Just see too much diminishing returns on their prices. However when it comes to a ratchet theirs appears to be the champ. Nepros are pulling me too. The price is the same.

So I'm going to drop a couple hundred+ on two ratchets, only two ratchets and was wondering mostly about length. My never in an engine compartment self problably doesn't need flex but I see the argument of get it in case and the whole locking flex. Used flexes a few times in my life and never felt confident about it.

I've babbled too long. I love the site and all of your input.

You will like Williams USA sockets, just pay attention and don't get the Taiwan ones by mistake (they are fine too but not worth the premium). Now that you've mentioned it. I strongly recommend Snap-on locking flex for your 'forever' ratchets. Best of both worlds.
 
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OP
W

Wagz3

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Yes, the stock numbers with their letters are their USA versions. Bouncing around locking flex. Long or standard? Forgot to mention the set of Norseman Super Premium Hi Moly set I just got. The heavens opened up, the light shined down and a voice said all is right now.
 
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M635_Guy

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I own probably 15 Dual 80's in various drive sizes, lengths, and flex. To compliment those I own Snap On roto ratchets in 3/8" and 1/4". I also own a complete set of the locking Armstrong (Matco) 88's. On top of that I have some Carlyle standard and roto ratchets and Pittsburgh Pro flex heads. I like them all and would recommend any of them. The only ratchets that I've owned that I ended up dumping were Craftsman flat panels and a set of SK round heads.

With that said, if I were to outfit another spare tool box I'd probably go with Tekton's ratchets.

Would love to hear your impressions on the SO 3/8" swivel an why you like the Tektons so much. I got a Sunex box-set (3/8" & 1/4" set), and while the sockets seem great, I had some issues with the reverse selector getting bumped and switching directions unintentionally. I blame them for my current acquisition-spell...
 

Steve_P

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I know you said you already decided on...
But, consider:
SK round head ratchets are great. Yes, the new LP90 line is apparently having issues, but the round heads are solid and have been around for decades. I've had several for many years and no issues. The head height is not the lowest, but it's truly a great ratchet for 99% of uses.
Try a Tekton. Join their online club, or whatever it's called, and buy one to try. I bought two of their 1/4 ratchets a few weeks ago and have been thoroughly impressed. 90T, small head, everything you could want. Well, except they are still expanding their line and need longer handle lengths in most sizes. If they come out with a full size selection, I think I will be sold.
 

Pawl49

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SK DT 3/8 ratchet is really good. 7 inches I think, old school quality and look.

Next 3/8 I'm getting is the longer Williams s52(not sure about the number)
 

Tallpilot

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Yes, the stock numbers with their letters are their USA versions. Bouncing around locking flex. Long or standard? Forgot to mention the set of Norseman Super Premium Hi Moly set I just got. The heavens opened up, the light shined down and a voice said all is right now.

Locking flex are curiously positioned between the long and standard lengths and like every length longer in comfort grip.

~12”

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Dua...ndard-Handle-Locking-Flex-Head-Ratchet/FHX80A

8.25”

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Dua...-Long-Handle-Locking-Flex-Head-Ratchet/THLX72

Norseman drills are awesome, especially if you have been using cheap junk.
 

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Bigblue&Goldie

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Would love to hear your impressions on the SO 3/8" swivel an why you like the Tektons so much. I got a Sunex box-set (3/8" & 1/4" set), and while the sockets seem great, I had some issues with the reverse selector getting bumped and switching directions unintentionally. I blame them for my current acquisition-spell...

I love the SO swivel heads. I don't reef on them super hard because they don't feel like they would take the abuse as well as a Dual 80 (this may or may not be the case?).

I think the Tekton's are a great deal. 90T, smooth action, good lengths, and good price. I will always keep my Dual 80's, but I won't spend the money to outift a second set of tools.
 

Shelbylex

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Wagz3, there will be multiple opinions as we all have our own favorite ratchets.
I agree with one of the advices above to get one of each
I currently use mostly Snap On, SK and old Craftsman now.
I have Snap ON TM78 orange handle for 1/4" ratchet and love using it.
I have Snap On TM711 3/8" flex head. I tried using this prior and did not like it. Wanted to sell it, but one of my friends told me to hold on to it as there will be a situation where I will need a flex. I recently had to adjust hand brake on 3d generation Acura TL and it was a perfect tool for the job.
I like 3/8" and 1/2" SK 45170 and 42470 (have other SK, but did not use them yet).
I can continue...

As you like Snap On and Nepros, I agree with the suggestion of Pizza
Get 1/4" Snap On
Get 3/8" Nepros (I do not have any experience but I read some good reviews about them)
This will give you two brand new ratchets you are dreaming about. Once in a blue moon we have to fulfill our dreams...

While using those once in a while keep your eye open for a Snap On flex - most likely you will not use it often, but it might be a perfect tool for a job in the future. If you get great deals on others - buy them to try and you can always sell them if you do not like them
 

ChevyEFI

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The best way to know what you want is to know what you don't want.

OP should in my opinion, buy a couple cheapies the next time he's out shopping. Hardware store, auto parts store, Wal-Mart. Just what will work for now. Even a double sided 3/8 - 1/4 from the parts store or HF.

Personal preference, and what your hands are used to, are intangibles you can figure out along the way. Questions about selector preference, handle length and style, and a million other details only the collective here could list, will fall in line on the upgrades.

And having 2 ratchets (maybe one short and one long? one fixed and one roto?) in each size isn't a bad setup to have.

Happy shopping.
 

sk farmer

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Fair. That said, a 3/8" ratchet is generally-useful it's hard to go wrong with, and fixing the lack of diversity with good-quality GW/etc. is easy enough if/when the task(s) demand.

In a way, I'm glad I had crappy ones first. It gives me an appreciation for what I have now, and some idea for the difference between my Carlyle and the more-recent Snap On stuff I own. The difference between a really nice $25 84-tooth GearWrench 81211F (8") or 81264 (11") and a used (~$80) or new (~$110-ebay/$118/$128) F80/FL80 is a few pizzas, and will hold value nicely.

In the pantheon of Snap On, the ratchets are easier to defend in terms of price than just about anything else they make vs. the decent or good alternatives.

(wasn't intending to take swipes at you btw)

i didn't really think you were taking a swipe at me, just trading ideas. i am all about getting rid of crappy ratchets or not using them.

that said i don't really buy the idea that snap-on holds it's value that much better. a top shelf ratchet damn well better hold it's value but sadly i know they don't increase in value and more than likely lose value in a similar way as cheaper tools do, you just start with a larger number . if a well used ratchet loses half of it's value a 100 dollar ratchet is worth 50 and a 20 dollar is worth 10. besides, how many ratchets do we really resell. the ones i have resold i could count on one hand so is that really a good basis? there are countless threads on here about guys who claim to have 25, 50 or 100 thousand in tools and boxes. guys laugh and joke about them being lucky to get 10 or 20% of that and then you need to cherry pick into complete sets and sell that way.


tools are a good investment if you use them to earn money and enjoy them. beyond that, they are just another asset that loses value from the moment you buy them. i have piles of tools, way more than i need but i know that none of them will return anything near what i have invested in them. for any tool i could sell that has gained value there is 10 that are worth less and some nothing. try getting big money out of any 36 tooth ratchet unless it is some rare version. it's not happening. everyone thought the 36 tooth snap-on was the **** til the dual 80's . sooner or later snap-on will come out with something newer, better or different and the same thing will happen. i am not picking on snap-on either. it can happen with any brand. the same things have happened with off corner broaching in sockets and wrenches and wrenches that are standard length. they are worth something but surely not a premium.
 
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JBH

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I own both in 1/4" drive. I am totally unimpressed with the Snapon Dual80-really-72 in 1/4" drive. Nepros is fine. My Nepros 1/4" drive recommendation is the 1/4" stubby. Add the Nepros 1/4" breaker bar (to get the full effect if you want - I use mine on a Stahlwille breaker bar) and you'll have an indexing flex head 1/4" ratchet.

In 3/8" drive I personally own neither, nor have I even held either, so no opinion.
 

Wamsutta

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If it was me, I'd be trying to decide on which comfort grip I liked the best between the Snap-on, Matco, and MAC. Let the ergonomics be your deciding factor.
 

VolvoRyan

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I would buy GearWrench ratchets, take the money saved and buy Snap-On sockets. The fit of the socket on the fastener is what really makes the package.

-Ryan
 

orangeblood

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Wagz (OP)

Welcome to GJ. I am sure you noticed during your research that ratchets, ratchet makers and the idea of "the best" are some of the most hotly considered topics on this forum.

You bought some good tools.

Again, welcome. This is a great forum with a lot of good advice, solutions and members with good intentions.
 

seber

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You can't go wrong with either brand so pick the one that appeals to you. I would get the standard wrenches in short length though because sooner or later you're going to want a flex. And that should be in long. The short standard ratchet is easier for one handed operation. The flex is way more versatile. I have around 20 ratchets but the only ones I ever use are SO flex in all three sizes unless I need a stubby. I made a stubby flex using a SO head and Harbor Freight double flex handle end.
 

byoungblood

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Don't look over the dual pawl round head ratchets from Wright (new) and Williams (have to buy used here).

They're in the 35-40 tooth range, but the dual pawls are staggered so that you get an effective 70-80 tooth count. I have a set of both brands, 1/4-1/2 drives, and they're what I use when I don't need a flex head or roto-head ratchet. Best part about them, you can find them used rather inexpensively since they don't have the name recognition. I think the most I've paid for any of the Wright or Williams ratchets is about $15, I've paid as little as $1 for my first Williams at a yard sale. :D

I have a SO F80 that I got as a warranty replacement a while back. It is nice, but I wouldn't pay their $120 new list price for one as a home user. If you have to have one, look in the classifieds here or on eBay.
 

Samuel D

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I own both in 1/4" drive. I am totally unimpressed with the Snapon Dual80-really-72 in 1/4" drive.
You’d have to say why for this comment to be useful to anyone who doesn’t already know all about your preferences.
 

JBH

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You’d have to say why for this comment to be useful to anyone who doesn’t already know all about your preferences.


Ok...things that turn me off are inability to make a product with consistent unit-unit quality, which is a demonstrated problem with Snapon Dual80-really-72. Basically they seem to have the quality control one would expect of a company selling credit with a sideline in goods.

Ergonomics matter too. Here, Snapon does pretty well. They have a wide variety of handles, lengths, and configurations. Their locking flex mechanism is better than, for example, Stahlwille’s current design. Snapon’s failing is backdrag notably higher than newer and better designs (eg Stahlwille 80T, Nepros 90T)

Tooth count is less important that feel. However, the two compared here are functionally equivalent so that did not enter the recommendation.

I accord no deference to means of delivery. Some people here seem to think falling off the back of a white delivery van gives a tool magic power. That is self-evidently dumb.

COO is low on the totem pole of concerns. Excellence is excellence regardless of race, passport, creed, etc.

I also could not care less about “lifetime warranty.” I expect something to be excellent out of the box.
 

madmanc

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ok here we go for 3/8 you could try facom extending handle ratchet fantastic reviews and feel super smooth and very well made inc life time warranty
 

finn

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I got my first ratchet for Christmas 1966, before I even had a drivers license: an SK round head, eventually added 1/4 and 4/8 SK ratchets that I still have.

Over the years I supplemented the old faithful SK ratchets with Craftsman of various designs, a dozen or so various SnapOn variations, Matco , Kmart, Crescent, HF composite, Stanley, Redmax, and a few others I can’t identify or remember.

The only ratchets I dislike are the old Craftsman raised panels., and my favorites are probably the Matco fine tooth, SnapOn roto, and long SnapOn 1/2” flex with a soft grip.

Having said that, I would recommend medium quality ratchets in a few different configurations rather than one 1/4 and one 3/8, 1/2, etc.

Long pattern for example, are great for some things, but if you can’t swing it, it’s useless.

Roto ratchets are great, but the head is bigger than a conventional ratchet.

I am also not particularly enamoured by the SnapOn hype and price penalty. I am not a professional mechanic though, but with few exceptions find the moderately priced ratchets perform well, even for large and difficult projects on medium trucks, tractors, and construction equipment. Not knocking SnapOn though, and I have more of them than every other brand, combined, in my toolbox. It’s just more important to have a variety than a particular brand, and the moderately priced brands are lifetime purchases for the homeowner and tinkerer.
 
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Wamsutta

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After all this advice, I'd be impressed as all hell and back if the OP went out and got a Cornwell 72 tooth with the all steel handle. :lol:
 

BrandoJames

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Since you’ve limited yourself to two ratchets, let’s talk about drive size: skip 1/4” and go with 3/8” and 1/2”. For small fasteners under 10mm, go with a 1/4” spinner handle. You can get a nice Williams M106-A spinner handle via Amazon for like $12 bucks. I’ve never understood the fetish here over 1/4” ratchets. Unless you have zero arm strength, a 1/4” ratchet simply isn’t needed for small fasteners.

If I had to recommend just two ratchets that I own:

1. Snap-on 3/8” Dual 80 Flex FF80A (standard length) is excellent for tasks like brake jobs, where you have tight clearances & awkward angles. I picked up a new one off eBay for $100.

2. Williams 1/2” S-52EHFA Flex (long) is like a 15” breaker bar, when clearance isn’t an issue and you just need brute strength. You could disassemble a tank with this ratchet. Amazon has this ratchet for $67.
 

Samuel D

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Pro car mechanics have different requirements from hobbyists who less frequently use tools but may appreciate nice ones when they do.

A pro mechanic benefits from using a modern long-handle ratchet to eliminate the need for a breaker bar. But that might save only a few trivial minutes per year for a hobbyist.

Likewise, the lower torque of a longer ratchet may improve comfort and reduce the risk of injury if you’re breaking or setting tight fasteners on a regular basis. But a hobbyist can use a bit of force on a shorter ratchet without consequence. Who cares if it’s only a few times a month?

So although long ratchets are currently fashionable, there’s an argument for skipping them so you can afford better quality regular-length ones. Shorter ratchets are more versatile and can be pressed into service for anything, especially if you also have a breaker bar – which the hobbyist should.

Here in Europe 3/8"-drive is still not as common as it seems to be in the US. There are plenty of old car mechanics in the sticks who still use 1/4" and 1/2" only. That might still make sense for hobbyists with limited money to throw at the problem. Three sets of sockets gets expensive fast, even if you can skip SAE sizes.
 

tank_jr

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My go to 3/8 ratchet is a SO FL80. Man that thing kicks ***. I'd love to own a Nepros but I can't quite pull the trigger. I can't imagine any possible warranty issue being a simple matter because they're all the way in Japan. I can find a SO truck easily. If someone can tell me otherwise about Nepros, then I'll buy one without hesitation.
 

Tallpilot

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Since you’ve limited yourself to two ratchets, let’s talk about drive size: skip 1/4” and go with 3/8” and 1/2”. For small fasteners under 10mm, go with a 1/4” spinner handle. You can get a nice Williams M106-A spinner handle via Amazon for like $12 bucks. I’ve never understood the fetish here over 1/4” ratchets. Unless you have zero arm strength, a 1/4” ratchet simply isn’t needed for small fasteners.

If I had to recommend just two ratchets that I own:

1. Snap-on 3/8” Dual 80 Flex FF80A (standard length) is excellent for tasks like brake jobs, where you have tight clearances & awkward angles. I picked up a new one off eBay for $100.

2. Williams 1/2” S-52EHFA Flex (long) is like a 15” breaker bar, when clearance isn’t an issue and you just need brute strength. You could disassemble a tank with this ratchet. Amazon has this ratchet for $67.

The fetish over 1/4” ratchets is for access. A long 1/4” ratchet with a low profile socket on it can get to some fasteners that otherwise would require significant disassembly to access. These might be M8 or M10 bolts so while the torque isn’t extreme, the ratchet needs to be reasonably strong.

Some would argue that doesn’t matter for a DIY situation where time isn’t money. The problem with this argument is time is money (opportunity cost) for everybody even on your day off. Also what if the fasteners break on the thing you were just trying to get out of your way? Now you have even more headache.
 

d.mcfarland

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Those Cornwell 72 teeth seems like they would be amazing if there was some way for the average Joe to get one and the price wasn't so high.
 

BrandoJames

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The fetish over 1/4” ratchets is for access. A long 1/4” ratchet with a low profile socket on it can get to some fasteners that otherwise would require significant disassembly to access.

Maybe 20 years ago, that might've been a solution. Not sure why you'd go that way now--a flex ratcheting box wrench (long pattern) would be my choice in that situation. I own the Tekton flex ratcheting box set, those are really nice--highly recommended.
 

sk farmer

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Maybe 20 years ago, that might've been a solution. Not sure why you'd go that way now--a flex ratcheting box wrench (long pattern) would be my choice in that situation. I own the Tekton flex ratcheting box set, those are really nice--highly recommended.

because fasteners are are often hidden behind things such as a ledge, bracket or recessed in some way that they need to be accessed from slightly above rather than from the side like required with most ratcheting wrenches.

that is exactly why many zero degree or aviation wrenches have an offset to the box end.

many flex ratcheting wrenches are also reversed by flipping them over. there are many horror stories about "boxing" themselves in and not being able to remove them because you can't flip them to change direction. i have not done it but have seen places it could happen and have been careful to not let it happen or used a different tool.
 
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lardy1

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I use the smallest drive I can without abusing the tools. My Carlyle long, locking flex in 1/4" drive and a full range set of SK 1/4" sockets often keeps me out of my 3/8" drawer. Lighter, more flexible, more comfortable. I like 1/4"drive.
 

Brownsfan

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This is a very subjective question. It just comes down to personal preference. I really like my 88t Matco 1/4 drive long handle and my SK roto head 3/8. Those are my go to. Also really like the Cornwell non comfort grip ratchets. Either the 72t or 30t. They are the most comfortable metal handle ratchets
 

Jack84

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The fetish over 1/4” ratchets is for access. A long 1/4” ratchet with a low profile socket on it can get to some fasteners that otherwise would require significant disassembly to access. These might be M8 or M10 bolts so while the torque isn’t extreme, the ratchet needs to be reasonably strong.

Some would argue that doesn’t matter for a DIY situation where time isn’t money. The problem with this argument is time is money (opportunity cost) for everybody even on your day off. Also what if the fasteners break on the thing you were just trying to get out of your way? Now you have even more headache.



I bought a ratchet with 3/8 drive in a 1/4 body. Best of both worlds.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
 

pizza

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My go to 3/8 ratchet is a SO FL80. Man that thing kicks ***. I'd love to own a Nepros but I can't quite pull the trigger. I can't imagine any possible warranty issue being a simple matter because they're all the way in Japan. I can find a SO truck easily. If someone can tell me otherwise about Nepros, then I'll buy one without hesitation.

idk about warranty issue down the line, but i bought a screwdriver from nepros that i felt was defective right off the bat. the contact form on nepros' page was broken, and the email address they listed was also broken. bad server config.

so i emailed their parent company, KTC.

they apologized and let me ship the tool back on their dime via their DHL account. then they sent me a new one.

so i guess i'm trying to say that if you notice an issue right away, there's a decent chance they'll take care of it. for a ratchet, i'm not sure what could go wrong with it that they'd warranty unless it's a day one defect. i can't imagine the handle snapping in half, and for other issues, that's what a rebuild kit is for. if you have a different opinion, let me know. i've never broken a ratchet before.
 

M6erfan

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'Merica!
My go to 3/8 ratchet is a SO FL80. Man that thing kicks ***. I'd love to own a Nepros but I can't quite pull the trigger. I can't imagine any possible warranty issue being a simple matter because they're all the way in Japan. I can find a SO truck easily. If someone can tell me otherwise about Nepros, then I'll buy one without hesitation.

idk about warranty issue down the line, but i bought a screwdriver from nepros that i felt was defective right off the bat. the contact form on nepros' page was broken, and the email address they listed was also broken. bad server config.

so i emailed their parent company, KTC.

they apologized and let me ship the tool back on their dime via their DHL account. then they sent me a new one.

so i guess i'm trying to say that if you notice an issue right away, there's a decent chance they'll take care of it. for a ratchet, i'm not sure what could go wrong with it that they'd warranty unless it's a day one defect. i can't imagine the handle snapping in half, and for other issues, that's what a rebuild kit is for. if you have a different opinion, let me know. i've never broken a ratchet before.

You can try contacting Frank at Frankstools.com, AFAIK he is the U.S. KTC rep. A few years back I had a conversation with him and he told me that any KTC warranty issues can be handled through him, whether or not the tool was bought from him. Again, this was a few years ago, so if you want to know for sure what the current policy is, contact him.
 

tank_jr

Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Messages
20
Location
Oregon
You can try contacting Frank at Frankstools.com, AFAIK he is the U.S. KTC rep. A few years back I had a conversation with him and he told me that any KTC warranty issues can be handled through him, whether or not the tool was bought from him. Again, this was a few years ago, so if you want to know for sure what the current policy is, contact him.


I looked at Frank’s website but it doesn’t seem like he’s selling any of the ratchets from the Nepros lineup. I’ll shoot him an email regardless asking about warranty.
 
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