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Need some Torque Wrench help

BHH

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Apr 1, 2011
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After lots of reading it seems the only safe way to put your tires on is to at least finish the job with a torque wrench. My wife, my life and my future kids lives are not really worth cutting corners on a few hundred dollar tool.

I really know nothing about torque wrenches or how they work and how sensitive they are. Is it not recommended to buy one second hand? Is this the kind of thing that if dropped a few times or even once throws it off calibration?

I noticed on the side of one of the snap on cases it had a calibrate date. How often do you have to calibrate it and how do you go about doing this? If I am not using this several times a day in a shop setting will it not need to be calibrated as frequently or even at all?

I have mostly snap on tools and I would kinda like to keep going down that road. Like I said they seem pretty expensive that is why I am checking out Epay to try and find a good deal but don't want to buy used if it is not recommended.

Thanks in advance!
 
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pipsters

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For tires buy a 1/2" clicker at Harbor Freight for $15. It's fine, and works well. Most lug nuts go on at around 80 ft-lbs to 100 ft-lbs.
 

93sr20det

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I have been buying Sturtevant Richmont torque wrenches on eBay lately. Good quality and made in the USA. I have 3 of them now and have not paid more than $30 for each of them. I plan on having them all calibrated at some point but I am sure they are fine.
 

GoBlue

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Under a car...swearing
You should calibrate every 12 months if you use it a lot, every 2 years would be fine for the home owner. I have a couple of the Harbor Freight 1/2 inch clickers for my employes at work for wheels and they are fine. They all passed calibration.
 
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BHH

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And how exactly do I go about calibrating it?
 

Skin

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The manufacturer can do it. Some trucks can do it on the spot as well. Dont buy a used Snap-On, no point since they're either made by CDI or Precision Instruments but you'll be paying substantially more just to have the name so unless you're shopping for the Techangle gizmo just buy a brand new Precision Instruments split beam from tooltopia (<$200) and be done with it.
 
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BHH

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The manufacturer can do it. Some trucks can do it on the spot as well. Dont buy a used Snap-On, no point since they're either made by CDI or Precision Instruments but you'll be paying substantially more just to have the name so unless you're shopping for the Techangle gizmo just buy a brand new Precision Instruments split beam from tooltopia (<$200) and be done with it.

Anyone know where to get one in Canada? Google is not being my friend tonight and ToolTopia does not ship to Canada.

Looking for the Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F

PREC3FR250F.jpg
 
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BHH

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Bumping in hopes of someone knowing where I can order this in Canada or who ships to Canada.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Here is the PI 250 lb/ft version with a FIXED SQUARE DRIVE (NO ratchet) for $149.95

http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com...-Made-in-USA-p/clearance-pi-torque-wrench.htm

A search in Amazon turns up several of the 1/2 drive flex head, ratcheting head, version for about $160. Search for "Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F" (without the quotes).

The reason I, and probably everyone else on this board that does recommend it, is that the split beam models are pretty foolproof. The don't have springs to take a set, lose calibration, etc, you don't have to remember to lower the setting to the lowest on the scale, it won't hurt to leave it at the wheel torque setting all the time, the flex head is handy for torquing wheels, where you need to clear the fender, and if you take reasonable care of it, it will never lose calibration. Its just a good tool for the weekend mechanic.

Charles
 

humpdawg

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Another suggestion for the PI split beam. I have the snap on version and I love it.
One rule is to not go directly from 1 setting to a lower setting. Switch from 100 to 80 ft lbs, you have to roll it from 100-all the way down-up to 80.
way way easier than spring loaded.
 

Treeman

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Another suggestion for the PI split beam. I have the snap on version and I love it.
One rule is to not go directly from 1 setting to a lower setting. Switch from 100 to 80 ft lbs, you have to roll it from 100-all the way down-up to 80.
way way easier than spring loaded.

humpdawg, even though that takes only 2 seconds to do, I have never heard of this. Where did you learn this? Please don't tell me the owner's manual!

Although, I did learn years ago with many instruments (survey) that it is good to go below your desired level, then adjust back up.

Thank you.
 
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ersatzs2

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Once I read a paper on fastener clamping force, and got persuaded once and for all that the torque applied to a fastener head is a fairly crude proxy for what you really care about: how tightly are the pieces clamped together? There is pretty big variability between torque settings of various fasteners due to differences in friction. That's why using anti seize or oil on the threads messes things up. Consequently, I think there is a lot of margin of error built in to torque recommendations.

Another thing to remember is that the calculation for torque is pretty simple, it is the rotational force applied at a certain distance. So 100 lb ft is just 100lbs of force applied at the end of a one foot breaker bar. Or 50lbs applied at the end of a 24" bar.

So those rare times when I have to tighten something in the 100's of lb ft, I will use a giant breaker bar. (or a pipe slid over a breaker bar) ie my 110 lb wife dangling on the end of a 3ft breaker bar delivers exactly 330 lb ft to a vibration damper nut.
 

humpdawg

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humpdawg, even though that takes only 2 seconds to do, I have never heard of this. Where did you learn this? Please don't tell me the owner's manual!

Although, I did learn years ago with many instruments (survey) that it is good to go below your desired level, then adjust back up.

Thank you.

Alright. I won't tell you where I read it then.
Just to clearify, that is the suggested re-set method for my split beam TQ wrench. Spring click type has its own exercise ritual for setting and resetting.

And it really doesnt take but 1 second to set that thing. Did I mention I love that wrench?
 

Coach James

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If all you are doing is setting the torque on tires, I wouldn't spend the money on a PI wrench. I have used a $29.99 Craftsman beam type wrench for years and zero problems and no worries about calibration.

Coach
 

AZ_Catskinner

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Morenci, AZ
If all you are doing is setting the torque on tires, I wouldn't spend the money on a PI wrench. I have used a $29.99 Craftsman beam type wrench for years and zero problems and no worries about calibration.

Coach

This!! For lug nuts you really can't go wrong with a simple beam bender.
 

TWX

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For torquing lug nuts don't worry about too much precision. A cheap torque wrench will be more than adequate.
 

ndoran

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Jun 23, 2011
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I talked to my Snap On guy today and he is getting me pricing on the CDI torques wrench. I also asked about the ATD wrench and he said he had previously ordered SK torque wrenches and they came from ATD and were labeled as ATD. When he queried this he was told this was correct.

Anyone know if SK are still getting torques wrenches from ATD.

Interesting to have a Snap On guy that handles so many other brands. He is an industrial franchise with two trucks.
 

cglasgow

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Jun 12, 2010
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I'm shopping for a torque wrench to replace my fubared CM. I know how the micrometer wrenches work, but I've searched online and cannot find an explanation of the operating principle of the split-beam wrenches. How do they work internally? I'm curious....

Cheers!
 

pipsters

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I'm shopping for a torque wrench to replace my fubared CM. I know how the micrometer wrenches work, but I've searched online and cannot find an explanation of the operating principle of the split-beam wrenches. How do they work internally? I'm curious....

Cheers!

I'm not 100% sure but I envision it similar to a beam style with a cam that pops at a pre-determined amount of travel. Basically the reliability and ruggedness of a beam style with the ease of use of a standard spring-loaded clicker.
 
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