Need some wiring help - really stuck.

[Tsquare]

Ok, need to get my drill press running this morning before Turkey day starts. It's just after 7:00 am pst and only have 2 hours to get my work done.

My wiring question: I have the following wires to connect - which wire goes to which wire?

From the motor : 1 white wire and 1 black wire

From the on/off switch on the drill press: 2 red wires and 2 black wires

From the plug: 1 Red wire, 1 black wire and 1 green wire

Thanks for your help and Happy Thanksgiving.

 

[philofab]

Most likely:

Motor white > Switch Red > Other Switch Red > Plug Red

Motor black > switch black > Other switch black > Plug Black

Green to chassis ground somewhere


Without seeing the switch or testing it with a meter I can't be 100% sure.

 

[Tsquare]

Most likely:

Motor white > Switch Red > Other Switch Red > Plug Red

Motor black > switch black > Other switch black > Plug Black

Green to chassis ground somewhere


Without seeing the switch or testing it with a meter I can't be 100% sure.

Does this picture help?

 

[philofab]

Is this a 220V or 110V machine? Or is it both depending on wiring?

 

[Tsquare]

Is this a 220V or 110V machine? Or is it both depending on wiring?

Both depending on wiring, currently set up for 110

 

[Norcal]

Is this a 220V or 110V machine? Or is it both depending on wiring?

220 & 110V are obsolete in the US.

 

[Tsquare]

220 & 110V are obsolete in the US.

It can be wired for 115v / 230v currently set up for 115v

 

[Tsquare]

When I tried it - it shorted the breaker box - what now?

 

[dw1]

Red wire from the plug, connect to white wire to the motor.
Black wire from the plug, connect to a black wire on the switch, other black wire on the switch, connect to black wire on the motor, green is ground (safety)
are your switches maintained? do they stay in when pushed? do you have a continuity meter? see if the black wires go to black switch and red wires to red switch, does this have a light?

(When you push the red switch in, does the black switch pop out?)

 

[philofab]

220 & 110V are obsolete in the US.

Sorry, 120V/240V AC 60hz Single phase.

 

[philofab]

When I tried it - it shorted the breaker box - what now?

Is the motor known good and wired correctly for the voltage according to the data plate? Capacitor is good? Also, is the startup current draw for that drill press less than the breaker it tripped?

 

[404]

220 & 110V are obsolete in the US.

Yes, but we all know perfectly well what he means.

I know you are smart, but really.

I see people posting this over and over again, and really, who cares. Correcting the spelling of a post would be more helpful and educational. Make a joke about a pet Marmoset instead. Post about how to implement some obscure NEC rule.

 

[Tsquare]

Red wire from the plug, connect to white wire to the motor.
Black wire from the plug, connect to a black wire on the switch, other black wire on the switch, connect to black wire on the motor, green is ground (safety)
are your switches maintained? do they stay in when pushed? do you have a continuity meter? see if the black wires go to black switch and red wires to red switch, does this have a light?

(When you push the red switch in, does the black switch pop out?)

Ok did the connection per your instructions the first time and did not work. Switches are maintained - on button stays in when pressed, off switch does not - I have a meter, but did not get any readings when connected to the black or red wires from the switch - it does not have a light.

Is the motor known good and wired correctly for the voltage according to the data plate? Capacitor is good? Also, is the startup current draw for that drill press less than the breaker it tripped?

Motor is good, and wired correctly per motor diagram, capacitor good - start up current draw is less than breaker 15 amps.

 

[Tsquare]

Wires from plug.

 

[Tsquare]

Wires from switch.

 

[Tsquare]

Wires from motor.

 

[CNGsaves]

Yes, but we all know perfectly well what he means.

I know you are smart, but really.

I see people posting this over and over again, and really, who cares. Correcting the spelling of a post would be more helpful and educational. Make a joke about a pet Marmoset instead. Post about how to implement some obscure NEC rule.

It IS Thanksgiving . . . we'll cut NorCal some slack.

You know . . . bad batch of cranberries, dealing with MIL, FIL farting and belching while snarfing down all the white meat . . . you know !!!

Good luck OP . . . . and Happy Thanksgiving !!! . . .

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes, but we all know perfectly well what he means.

I know you are smart, but really.

I see people posting this over and over again, and really, who cares. Correcting the spelling of a post would be more helpful and educational. Make a joke about a pet Marmoset instead. Post about how to implement some obscure NEC rule.

However, it is sometimes the case where someone has a used piece of foreign equipment that truly does run on 110v/220v 50hz and there may be issues with running it on US 120v/240v.

And we do occasionaly get foreigners posting on here. And people dont update their profile and put their location on it.

It helps to be accurate when it comes to things like this.

Sure we could ASSuME we know what voltage he is talking about but we all know that means!

 

[LXCam]

Red wire from the plug, connect to white wire to the motor.
Black wire from the plug, connect to a black wire on the switch, other black wire on the switch, connect to black wire on the motor, green is ground (safety)
are your switches maintained? do they stay in when pushed? do you have a continuity meter? see if the black wires go to black switch and red wires to red switch, does this have a light?

(When you push the red switch in, does the black switch pop out?)

Ok did the connection per your instructions the first time and did not work. Switches are maintained - on button stays in when pressed, off switch does not - I have a meter, but did not get any readings when connected to the black or red wires from the switch - it does not have a light.



Motor is good, and wired correctly per motor diagram, capacitor good - start up current draw is less than breaker 15 amps.

Connect your nuetral just as he suggested straight through. If you have a continuity (ohm) meter find the two leads on that switch that make and break contact then wire it up like dw said. I can't really see what switch you have on my phone so I'm not sure what you got, sorry bout that.

 

[dw1]

Wires from switch.

OK Lets swap switches, use the above, red cord to white on motor, use black cord on one red switch, other red switch on black motor lead

120 volts correct??

Sorry (I was in a hurry), red cord wire is neutral, it goes straight to motor white (neutral) .Black cord wire is the hot, we will run it through a switch, in one wire, use the other switch wire to the motor black.

 

[404]

However, it is sometimes the case where someone has a used piece of foreign equipment that truly does run on 110v/220v 50hz and there may be issues with running it on US 120v/240v.

And we do occasionaly get foreigners posting on here. And people dont update their profile and put their location on it.

It helps to be accurate when it comes to things like this.

Sure we could ASSuME we know what voltage he is talking about but we all know that means!

Okay, the voltage at my dryer outlet when the dryer is not in use is 234 volts. Should I now be calling it 234 volts? If I call it 230 volts that is not accurate. When I plug the dryer in and run it, I measure a voltage of 228. Where does this end then?

 

[philofab]

You guys can calm down. The internet didn't touch me in bad places.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Do you have a better shot of wiring diagram?

 

[nehog]

Switch reds to motor, switch blacks to line.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Okay, the voltage at my dryer outlet when the dryer is not in use is 234 volts. Should I now be calling it 234 volts? If I call it 230 volts that is not accurate. When I plug the dryer in and run it, I measure a voltage of 228. Where does this end then?

If youre seeing voltage that low then youve got a problem with your supply or branch circuit.

I once got a service call where the voltage would get that low while the air conditioner was running. As the customer added more load voltage would get even lower and breakers would trip due to the devices drawing more current than normal due to the low supply voltage.

Turns out PGE had numerous issues with the distribution in the mobile home park in the past. Looks like the issue was still going on. I told her to call the power company to get it fixed.

Also, with resistive heating loads, the heating output is reduced with lower voltage.

U should give the PoCo a call.

Do u have any other electric appliances- AC heater, WH, etc im curious how low your voltage gets.

U should test at the main service panel just to make sure your dryer circuit doesnt have a bad connection somewhere.

 

[Norcal]

Okay, the voltage at my dryer outlet when the dryer is not in use is 234 volts. Should I now be calling it 234 volts? If I call it 230 volts that is not accurate. When I plug the dryer in and run it, I measure a voltage of 228. Where does this end then?

The nominal line to line voltage is 240 volts, 'nuff said.

 

[barnjunkie]

If youre seeing voltage that low then youve got a problem with your supply or branch circuit.

I once got a service call where the voltage would get that low while the air conditioner was running. As the customer added more load voltage would get even lower and breakers would trip due to the devices drawing more current than normal due to the low supply voltage.

Turns out PGE had numerous issues with the distribution in the mobile home park in the past. Looks like the issue was still going on. I told her to call the power company to get it fixed.

Also, with resistive heating loads, the heating output is reduced with lower voltage.

U should give the PoCo a call.

Do u have any other electric appliances- AC heater, WH, etc im curious how low your voltage gets.

U should test at the main service panel just to make sure your dryer circuit doesnt have a bad connection somewhere.

Really.. call the power company and check for bad connections?? You really should keep bad advise to yourself.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Really.. call the power company and check for bad connections?? You really should keep bad advise to yourself.

WTF? Bad advise?

What are you talking about? How is that Bad advise?

I do this for a living! Ive had many service calls where it turned out to be an issue with the PoCos supply to the house or a bad connection in the service drop or transformer connections, which the customer has no control over. But he could also have a bad connection somewhere on the circuit.

Perhaps u should learn the subject matter before u make yourself look like a fool.

His supply voltage with a small dryer load is a bit low and should be investigated. PoCos have a range for voltage delivery which is usually +/- 5%. @ 228v, he is right at 5%. I wonder what it drops to when the AC kicks on...

 

[laser3kw]

OP
with the plug disconnected from the wall, connect the plug wires to the motor direct, no switch. I would go black to black, red to white, green to chassis. Be careful and plug it in. That will confirm the motor will run on 120v.
After that ring out the switch and we'll go from there.
By the way, that cord looks pretty beefy to be a standard 120v. Might want to check out the plug end and make sure the white wire isn't connected somewhere and that the other wires go to where we assume they go