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Need suggestions about roughing in.

ka41

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Joined
May 12, 2009
Messages
35
Im about to start pulling wire in my shop. Its a metal building so I have metal cee purlins for the wall for the wall framing. So what I did was everywhere I was planning on putting an outlet or switch, I put a 2x4 verticle between the purlins so that I could mount the box. I am putting 3/4 osb board for the walls. My question is this. I already have the brown plastic outlet boxes to attach to the 2x4s. I have 2 options. If I use the brown boxes, when I put up the osb board I have to make sure I have the exact measurement for cutting out the hole and the cut needs to be almost perfectly square so that the cover plate fits square. Option 2 is pull the wire to the location of the box, staple it to the stud so that 6 or 8 inches will stick out past the osb. As I'm putting up the osb, find the general location of the wire, drill a hole, put up a blue plastic outlet box (the kind for old work) on the osb, outline the box, and make the cut. I know I already have the other boxes and they were giving to me but I dont mind paying for the "old work" style if that woud be easier. So what would yall do?
Sorry for the long post.
 
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hidollartoys

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Jul 15, 2008
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K. C. Metro area
There are oversized switch and receptical covers that will hide any imperfect cut outs. They are available in nylon so they are extremely flexible and wont break.
 
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ka41

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May 12, 2009
Messages
35
So has anyone else installed osb for your walls. If so what did you do about cutting out for the outlet boxes?
 

OccupantRJ

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Eastern North Carolina
Either way will work. It depends on how well you can measure and cut. You could do one box each way and see what you like. The thing that caught my eye was the use of 3/4 material for the wall. I know it's YOUR garage, but 1/2 inch should work just fine, unless you're going to put up shelves to hold army tanks. :)
On the other hand, you may be trying to avoid studding your walls with framing lumber, I would guess? Cost of 3/4 OSB tongue and groove is over 4 times higher than 1/2 here, and it is manufactured just a few miles away. Also, be aware that if you use the tongue and groove (T&G), you will have to make your cutouts to allow you to shift the sheet to allow you to engage the t&g. The t&g would allow you to have a flatter wall if your perlins are spaced rather far apart.

RJ
 
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Dragster Racer

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Feb 9, 2008
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Morrison, IL
My skills on cutting out are not yet very good, so I am using the other method. Run the wire in the wall to avoid conduit, and then surface mount the box. I agree with the osb only having to be 1/2". But I don't know what all you are doing. I used 1/2" on my ceiling, and I would sure have hated hoisting 3/4" up there!
 
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ka41

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May 12, 2009
Messages
35
Thanks for your imput guys. The reason for going with 3/4 is so I dont have to stud the walls. My wall girts are 4' apart so 1/2 would have be pushing the limit. I'm not using t&g and also the cost difference between the 2 was just a couple of dollars a sheet and I have 50 sheets. I think I paid $9.80 a sheet.
Dragster Racer, Im not planning on surface mounting, if I took your route then I would cut the holes and use a "old work" style box. I guess I'm a little paranoid about making sure the box is cut out square. I already have the nail in boxes and I priced the old work style boxes at home depot last night and they are $.98 a piece for single outlet/switch boxes and I need about 30 of them.
Thanks
 
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ka41

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May 12, 2009
Messages
35
Have you asked your electrical inspector if it's okay to run Romex in your metal garage building?

No inspections required, I live in the country. Is there a problem running romex in a metal building?
 
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