Need Suggestions for a SECURE Garage door

[TurboCup87]

I store a trailer in an off site garage. It got broken into, fortunately while my trailer was elsewhere. Lost a hoist only.

The garage is in an area used during the day, but nobody is around except during M-F business hours. Alarm won't be real helpful.

The garage has a steel frame around the garage door, no windows and no man door. Metal siding.

What is the board's recommendation for a secureable door? I'm thinking really strong locks to either the slab or to the steel uprights. I found some lock system from the UK that locked the door to anchors in the floor. Haven't found a US supplier. Door would be metal, but some must be more secure than others. No heat, so no insulation is required.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Falcon67]

Can't make a recommendation on a door, but having lived for years in a neighborhood where you could get rid of anything by just leaving it outside after dark - Light, lots of light. Some on all the time, some automagic triggered by movement. And cameras with red LEDs displayed promenantly, real or fake.

 

[woodstockva]

I agree with Falcon67.....LIGHT is the biggest deterrent other than dogs.

I use LED floodlights at my house and have not had any issues since installing them. They use 10% of the electricity of a standard flood light & have the same lumens output. I think 1 bulb uses approx $0.50/month in electricity or some extremely low number (11 watts each).

As far as locks go, I worked for banks for a LONG time breaking into foreclosed houses, and here is my opinion.

1. For your doorknob/deadbolt, dont skimp. Kwikset is pure junk & I can break into them (with no sign of forced entry) faster than you can open them with a key. Schlage locks on the other hand are EXTREMELY hard to pick. It took me 6+ months of breaking into houses everyday before I got the hang of picking them.

2. Masterlock padlocks are very hard to break into, and the larger ones cannot be cut with boltcutters. I would steer clear of the combination variety, they are fairly easy to break into.

I would look at the best locks you can afford, then go to youtube and try & find videos on how to pick them. You will quickly feel very unsafe with junk locks.

If your garage door is a typical one with rollers on a track inside, you can get two masterlock padlocks and put them through the holes in the track after the door is shut. The door will at max open 4-6" (depending on the distance from the roller to the padlock blocking the track).

That coupled with a GOOD lock & deadbolt on the door itself will prevent most thieves a fast break-in. But, most people are going to want to walk up, break in, and get inside with no one seeing them, so if you have lights shining + good locks, you will prevent a lot of that kind of thing.

Also, I deal a lot with security cameras. Here is a fact not many people know....ONLY fake cameras have the red blinking LED. NO real cameras have that. So, if you see a blinking LED, the camera is 100% fake. The best option for cameras on a budget is to buy non-working/broken cameras from eBay "for parts" etc....they go super cheap since they dont work & they are identical to the real thing, since they are the real thing only broken internally. One thing you may want to check out would be a outdoor camera housing (like outside on walmart's roof or at a gas station).

99% of people think that if they can see a camera, the camera can see them. They will not take the time to inspect it to see if its real if it looks legit from a distance.

Good Luck!

 

[woodstockva]

I re-read your OP and see there is no man-door, so here is the next best suggestion.

I would buy two slide bolt locks and bolt them through the door itself, using large washers/metal on the rear of the door to prevent a crowbar prying it off. You will need to drill a hole on either side into the metal frame for the bolt to insert into when locked.

Here are the ones I would buy :

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJVU4TK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[theoldwizard1]

Motion Sensing, Wireless, Battery Operated, LEd Security light

 

[nolimits76]

One of our construction sites has an old metal building that houses our equipment and materials during off hours. It's in a bad part of town. It's hard to keep the determined thieves out truthfully.

Things that have helped us....

1. Lighting. Lots of bright lighting.

2. Pole mounted security cameras. It's not going to stop them, but getting tag numbers, facial recognition, etc can be helpful in finding the criminals.

3. Perimeter fencing with lock gate.

4. Drive gate "tire shredders". Put into locked position during after hours. Most thieves are lazy and if you make them work too hard by taking away easy load access, chances are they move onto the next place.

 

[crewchief888]

I re-read your OP and see there is no man-door, so here is the next best suggestion.

I would buy two slide bolt locks and bolt them through the door itself, using large washers/metal on the rear of the door to prevent a crowbar prying it off. You will need to drill a hole on either side into the metal frame for the bolt to insert into when locked.

Here are the ones I would buy :

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJVU4TK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

something like this would probably be the best idea.

back it up on the inside of the door with a large piece of plate, at least 1/8" thick.

have no hardware visible / accessable from the outside from the outside

probably best to mount the locks up high to prevent the sledgehammer method of removal.

motion activated lights alone will deter the "casual" thief, but if they are determined, and have enough time, a tin can building will only slow them down for so long...

 

[Chuck Farley]

Just remember that a truly determined thief will just make any locks irrelevant by driving a stolen car right THROUGH the door, grab what he wants and then leave in the second (also stolen) car driven by his buddy! Your first line of defense is the big bollards installed in removable sockets just barely inside the door. Car hits door, door flexes, the whole assemblage hits bollards, car stops, door still remains intact enough to prevent intrusions.

 

[Jere]

Lights are something of a security myth, especially the ones that turn on randomly. It's something that helps the thief see without drawing attention (like if they had a flashlight instead) and acts as a false alarm always turning off and on. Any security measures can be overcome if someone wants to defeat them enough.

My suggestion is big hardware, and a dog, noise makers, double deadbolts, otherwise marking your property and documenting. Get in touch with your local police a lot of cities routinely check businessss' doors on patrol. Last just don't leave anything around you can't afford to loose.

 

[tojen1981]

If you have the means, I would find another place to park the trailer. Unless the original thief was caught, chances are he is somebody close who is familiar with the area and will strike again. You can add extra security to the door, but a steel building is fairly easy to break into through the siding with a sawzall or a power drill and a hex bit. A human presence really is the best theft deterrent.

 

[TurboCup87]

Thanks for all of the advice guys! Agree with everything above, especially the last two posts, unfortunately. most of these buttholes are druggies and seem really determined to score $ for their next fix. We're the world center of the copper thieves who cut up phone lines, AC units and even power lines to score their dope. Every now and then one of them gets electrocuted, but that doesn't seem to stop the rest of them

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Have power available? Mag-locks connected to a well hidden key switch.

 

[Sureshot]

I would have several "locks". One that doesn't even lock. Like a rod or handle on the side of the building that you can pull to release some sort of latch or that you pull then thread out 10 turns. Get creative.
Put something on the door with a padlock that does nothing. Make it a chore as best you can for them to mess with. It will kill time and has zero hope of opening the door. Maybe put one on each side so they waste double the time.
I have an explosives mag with a long key. Not a factory long key but it is the working end of a key brazed to another piece so the lock is inset well behind the door and access is through a small hole in a heavy plate. The hole is covered with a hood. The hood is only tacked on so it cannot be used as a spot to jack or pull with a chain. You could put one of these on each side. I could get pics in the daylight if needed.
Put a hole on the opposite end of the building from the door that you stick a 2 ft rod with a j hook on it and pull on a cable that releases spring loaded latches on the top of the door. Or make the internal piece threaded so you need a 3/8 fine piece of rod to thread into and pull on. It could be at the end of conduit to make it easy to align but impossible to figure out. Something like the GM spares.
As far a padlocks being tough or not being able to cut with a bolt cutter. Stick a bar in the eye and pipe wrench on the body and I have yet to see one that doesn't fold like a cheap suit. The crooks may not know that or try that method.
If you want to find out who it is put a hole they can get their arm into and have a #4 trap with teeth welded to the jaw about a foot in. They will be happy to see you Monday morning.

Makes me think of this:
http://lolchamp.com/how-i-learned-to-mind-my-own-business

 

[scarpozzi]

Locks are for honest people.

Fence it in with another set of locks....use lights, as mentioned, and cameras. None of those can't be disabled/worked around....they are only theft deterrents.

 

[bczygan]

Make a spot that is easy to get into.....but impossible to get out!

 

[IlliniBone]

Make a spot that is easy to get into.....but impossible to get out!

Exactly what I was thinking. Watch the series of Rambo movies and you will have plenty of good ideas.

 

[68rustang]

I actually have some experience with this. I have a building in a less than perfect neighborhood with 5 overhead dock doors.

You need some sort of lock but that alone will not keep anybody out. I know you said no heat so you don't need an insulated door but I'd suggest one anyway they aren't much more expensive and they are much sturdier. Which plays into my next suggestion, drill 3 holes inside the door but right up against it. One on each end near the tracks and one in the center. Drop steel bars into the holes but leave at least 6-12" above the concrete**. This will keep somebody from just pushing the door in and off its track. I've had two break-ins on building this way. Since I replaced the flimsy uninsulated doors with insulted ones and added the 1" bars they have tried to come in but given up before they were successful or the monitored alarm scared them off.

Most thieves are looking for an easy target. All you need to do is make it difficult enough that they will look elsewhere but if somebody is determined enough they will find a way in.

** I'd suggest the bar used in the center be extended about 3' above the concrete and painted bright colors so it is easily seen and not driven over. If it is about bumper height with a 1/2 chevy it can be driven into with out much damage. It will deflect enough to allow the bumper to go up and over. Getting it back off without a towmotor or damage is another story. It is best avoided all together

 

[MichaelWest]

I am no expert, but why not look at what retail places use for roll up doors locked from outside in bigger cities to deter break-ins? In my experience thieves are lazy, it is a question of layers, each one makes it more work and more chance of being caught they are deterred.

For example I switched to Schlage door locks after my neighbor lost his keys and had a locksmith pick it open, it took that guy over 30 minutes of sweating in the sun to get the door unlocked, he said Kwiksets were easier. Just add as many layers as you feel are worth it to you, and pay the insurance, document contents and accept that we live in a craptastic world where we cannot shoot these vermin outright. Good luck!

 

[bwane]

Lights are something of a security myth, especially the ones that turn on randomly. It's something that helps the thief see without drawing attention (like if they had a flashlight instead) and acts as a false alarm always turning off and on. Any security measures can be overcome if someone wants to defeat them enough.
.

You are RIGHT. I knew a guy 30 years ago who went around in the day making a list of things to steal. He said he went back after dark and ONLY got things that were lit up. Said he wasnt going to take a chance of breaking a leg in the dark.

A small engine shop here was robbed by an 18 wheeler backing over an 8 foot fence with razor ribbon, then the trailer (with guys inside and the doors open) backed into the cinder block wall, busting it to pieces. The guys jumped out, gathered $100,000 worth of chainsaws, weedeaters, lawnmowers, and stuff and were driving away within two minutes, pulling down the trailer door as they left.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Just remember that a truly determined thief will just make any locks irrelevant ...

Battery operated 4" grinder with a cut off wheel.

The best you can do is hopefully slow them down or make them look for an easier target.

 

[theoldwizard1]

We're the world center of the copper thieves who cut up phone lines, AC units and even power lines to score their dope. Every now and then one of them gets electrocuted, but that doesn't seem to stop the rest of them

You have nothing on Detroit ! The druggies here are even hitting churches and community centers.

 

[4BT]

 

[Duct Tape Man]

Ha. You want a deterrent?

Wait until someone breaks in and you're home. Take a 12-gauge and blow his brains out in the driveway, and go back to bed. Leave the body where it lay for everyone to see in the morning.

Guarantee the thugs won't even look at you sideways again, EVER.

 

[spotco2]

Since all you have to secure is a garage door, you're just about going to have to add another door or gate on the outside of it. Garage doors are generally thin and light weight material and easy to drive through or just kick through if you can find a weak spot.

Roll up gates are popular in the retail world. They run in steel tracks and usually lock into a plate mounted in the ground. Another option would be to just add a swinging steel gate in front of the garage door and secure it with a hockey puck type lock or weld a shield over a steel hasp so that you can still use a regular padlock but have no access to the shackle.