I bought a modular home. The water heater was removed from the home when they winterized the water pipes. I had my buddy install a tankless water heater instead of a tank style water heater. The problem is the water pressure on the cold side is vert low at the faucets. The hot water side has great pressure. I am working overseas right now and I'm trying to understand what the problem is. Does anyone have any experience with swapping a tank style water heater for a tankless? I think the brand was a Bosch if it matters.
Need tankless water heater help
- Thread starter 12valve
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Wingnut65
Well-known member
This sounds more like a plumbing question rather than a water heater question. Since the hot water side has good pressure, it sounds like something on the cold side that is restricting the flow. Since the hot side works, the heater is not necessarily the culprit. We are assuming there was plenty of cold pressure before the install.
Is the cold pressure low at ALL faucets? If they winterized the home and removed the WH, could something have gotten into the cold line and is clogging it? Could something be clogged at the faucet end of the line? Is your buddy a plumber or just a good friend and handyman? Not to place responsibility, just thinking that it may take a plumber to run diagnostics to seek a solution.
just my 2¢ worth...
Is the cold pressure low at ALL faucets? If they winterized the home and removed the WH, could something have gotten into the cold line and is clogging it? Could something be clogged at the faucet end of the line? Is your buddy a plumber or just a good friend and handyman? Not to place responsibility, just thinking that it may take a plumber to run diagnostics to seek a solution.
just my 2¢ worth...
airbassador
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Agreed. If the hot side has pressure, the heater isn't the culprit.
There's really just got to be something causing resistance on the cold side. Clogged pipes, a valve that isn't fully opened.
I would start at the cold faucet closest to where the water splits, see if it has pressure and work further out.
EDIT: If the first faucet doesn't have pressure, I would cut the line closest to your hot/cold split, splice in a hose bib and see if I even get pressure there. With the line cut, you may be able to blow out the clog backwards with air pressure. Note that I'm not a professional plumber.
There's really just got to be something causing resistance on the cold side. Clogged pipes, a valve that isn't fully opened.
I would start at the cold faucet closest to where the water splits, see if it has pressure and work further out.
EDIT: If the first faucet doesn't have pressure, I would cut the line closest to your hot/cold split, splice in a hose bib and see if I even get pressure there. With the line cut, you may be able to blow out the clog backwards with air pressure. Note that I'm not a professional plumber.
Last edited:
tdkkart
Well-known member
The cold feeds the hot, so if you have hot pressure you've got to have good cold pressure up to where it feeds the heater, where the cold then T's off and feeds the rest of the house. Look at the cold lines after where it feeds the heater.
rasit
Well-known member
Bingo.....tdkkart wins!!
yeah I think you guys may be right about the restriction in the cold line after the tee into the water heater. Sometimes it just sounds weird and I don't always think thing through. I like the idea of blowing air backwards into the cold line and see what happens. My buddy is just a general handyman. He should have a little knowledge on some plumbing as he is a pipefitter by trade. I mention the air pressure backward trick and see what that give him. You got me thinking. If all the faucets are low on pressure the restriction must be before it T's off to all the other faucets and washing machine. thanks guys I appreciate the help.
6768rogues
Banned
Sounds like a flow problem and not a pressure problem. Good answers so far.