Need to build a Frame jig/fixture

Robert Haas · Aug 29, 2017

Anyone have any experience and or advice on the do's and don't s?

I have access to some .250 wall 6"x 6" I beam.

This will be for fabricating two frames for a pair of 1965 GMC trucks.

Thumper68 · Aug 29, 2017

Add a bit more cross bracing than you think you need and adjustable feet with enough travel to make damn sure the thing is level. I used one at a friends shop and we had to place wood blocks under 4 of the feet to get it level due to the slope of the floor.

pi_guy · Aug 29, 2017

If you doing this more than once look at Strong Hands. They make neat fixtures.

But when we do chassis repairs needing a big flat piece of steel to build the fixture on makes the difference.

bigguns69 · Aug 29, 2017

Here is what I did, 4" channel with a 3/4" gap mounted to my body cart. I level it in place in my shop. Plenty stable. Build it so you can move it. A couple of pictures of a jig that I used as a reference point.

joe49 · Aug 29, 2017

If you're only doing 2 frames, KISS. Shims to level, use lap joints, and just strong tacks. Don't cut up loads of material into non reuse-able lengths. Using horse's instead of legs, makes everything used more versatile.

vpd66 · Aug 30, 2017

bigguns69 said:
Here is what I did, 4" channel with a 3/4" gap mounted to my body cart. I level it in place in my shop. Plenty stable. Build it so you can move it. A couple of pictures of a jig that I used as a reference point.

Thats a really cool frame jig! Anymore details or write up on how you built it?

bigguns69 · Aug 30, 2017

This is all I've got for dimensions.

dontlifttoshift · Aug 31, 2017

I beam is great if you are bolting or welding to it....it ***** if you want to clamp things to it.

Are you building chassis from scratch or modifying existing frame rails?

vpd66 · Aug 31, 2017

bigguns69 said:
This is all I've got for dimensions.

Thanks!

astroracer · Aug 31, 2017

I built two identical tables using 3 x 3 x 1/4 wall tubing for the frames and 6" H beams for the sliding tops. I bolt and clamp all kinds of fab tooling to them.

The top is two pieces of particle board, screwed and glued together, with a melamine surface on one side.

I cut kerfs in the top board for centerlines and build the frames on that.
Here are some pics with a full frame for an Astro going together on it.

The melamine top comes out before any real welding is done. Tacks only on this stuff...

Mark

dontlifttoshift · Aug 31, 2017

Yeah, your I beam is on the left and can be clamped to quite easily. The I beam on the right ***** to clamp to.

zmotorsports · Aug 31, 2017

bigguns69 said:
Here is what I did, 4" channel with a 3/4" gap mounted to my body cart. I level it in place in my shop. Plenty stable. Build it so you can move it. A couple of pictures of a jig that I used as a reference point.

That is a nice setup. If I were building more than one every other year or so I would definitely copy this design.

Mike

zmotorsports · Aug 31, 2017

Mine is all bolt together so I can disassemble and stand up in the corner when not in use, which is quite a lot.

I used 3"x4" tubing 14' long each with 2"x2" square tubing crossmembers that bolt into saddles. There are five crossmembers spanning across the 14' length. I installed leveling feet on four legs and it is about 2' off the ground. Nothing special but it works and I have built several sand rails on it, couple of trailers and two street rods/race cars over the past 15 years or so.

Mike

Cuda416 · Sep 6, 2017

zmotorsports said:
Mine is all bolt together so I can disassemble and stand up in the corner when not in use, which is quite a lot.

I used 3"x4" tubing 14' long each with 2"x2" square tubing crossmembers that bolt into saddles. There are five crossmembers spanning across the 14' length. I installed leveling feet on four legs and it is about 2' off the ground. Nothing special but it works and I have built several sand rails on it, couple of trailers and two street rods/race cars over the past 15 years or so.

Mike

Any pictures? I'll be building one for my 70 Cuda vert eventually.

zmotorsports · Sep 11, 2017

Cuda416 said:
Any pictures? I'll be building one for my 70 Cuda vert eventually.

Sorry, been away for a few days. If you look at my original Shop Projects thread I have some pictures of my frame jig in use when I was building my 6'x10' utility trailer. Sorry, can't remember exactly what page it was on.

larry4406 · Sep 11, 2017

Cuda416 said:
Any pictures? I'll be building one for my 70 Cuda vert eventually.

Let's see the vert!

Cuda416 · Sep 13, 2017

There's my girl...

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larry4406 · Sep 13, 2017

Cuda416

Here's my vert!

Cuda416 · Sep 13, 2017

larry4406 said:
Cuda416

Here's my vert!

Now i dont feel so bad! Lol

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Cuda416 · Sep 13, 2017

larry4406 said:
Cuda416

Here's my vert!

Is it actually a 71 or just the fenders?

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larry4406 · Sep 14, 2017

Cuda416 said:
Is it actually a 71 or just the fenders?

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It's a 71 barracuda vert being cloned into a cuda. 383 auto 2bbl originally will be 440-6 hemi 4spd Dana 60 shaker. It has original power top, power brakes, and AC and I have power windows to add. Been dead project for a long time. Last on the road 1985.....

Cuda416 · Sep 14, 2017

Sounds like an awesome project. I thought a 383 would have made it a cuda. Mine was a 318 manual. Yup you read that right. It's 3 speed manual which was the base transmission. It wasn't upgraded. Turns out there are only 115 like that. Not on the road since 78 due to some immovable object deciding the car was too much fun, hence the missing core support.

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Cuda416 · Sep 14, 2017

larry4406 said:
It's a 71 barracuda vert being cloned into a cuda. 383 auto 2bbl originally will be 440-6 hemi 4spd Dana 60 shaker. It has original power top, power brakes, and AC and I have power windows to add. Been dead project for a long time. Last on the road 1985.....

Just for giggles, cuz I'm "that guy", I looked it up, holy ****. I love learning new stuff. I wonder how many of the 722 were a 383 2bbl? Can't say I hate your plan, but have you considered keeping it stock?

Also, as an aside, if you're putting the Dana in for anything other than looks and cool factor, the 8 3/4 "can" be a better choice. That dana is heavy and a properly built 489 can be as good without the extra weight and overhead.

Anyway, hope to see a thread on the car someday. I'll be doing one for my Dart, then the barracuda when I get to it. It's a rust bucket.

Now, back to our regularly scheduled thread... sorry about the diversion OP.

70staged · Sep 14, 2017

http://v8tvshow.com/V8TV_2/index.php/en/car-build-photo-galleries#

Robert Haas · Sep 28, 2017

Using several different builds from these boards I built this.

Robert Haas · Sep 28, 2017

continues

70staged · Sep 28, 2017

just a suggestion for you, get the GM crash Data for the truck. That will tell you how high each alignment spot should be and then look at building the jig after by using those points.