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Need to build a shelf -- Advice needed

danny_barkley

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I'm no woodworker...

But, I need to build a shelf to go on the top of a workbench.

The wood I am going to use is Oak from HD

1x10 sides and shelves

I was just going to cut (2) 60" pieces for the sides.

and then sandwich between these (5) 7' shelves

I was going to buy some 1 x 12 oak to make 1' cross pieces for bracing.

So it will use the work bench for the bottom shelf and, and have 5 shelves above that about 12" apart.

I was thinking about screws and glue.

What screws? What glue?

Any tips for getting the holes right?

Let me repeat -- I'm no woodworker!
 
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rjn2649

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It sounds like you want to mount the shelves to the workbench. I don't think I would do that, the added weight, shelf material and what ever is on the shelves, might make the bench a little unstable. I think I would just get some shelf brackets and use some 1x10 pine and mount them to a wall.
 
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danny_barkley

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It sounds like you want to mount the shelves to the workbench. I don't think I would do that, the added weight, shelf material and what ever is on the shelves, might make the bench a little unstable. I think I would just get some shelf brackets and use some 1x10 pine and mount them to a wall.

Hi,
The workbench is an "L" and very heavy. It was custom made for a recording studio and is massive and large in every dimension. I am thinking of attaching the shelf with some brackets to keep the shelf stable. No way it would upset the base. Just too substantial. Don't want to attach to the walls. This is inside my house in a project room.
 

Kaizen

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Seven feet is too wide. Also oak is too expensive and not strong enough in 3/4 size. Split the width. Make two bookcases. Complete stand alone units is easier. Use oak plywood double thick for the sides and glue a solid piece of oak to the front. Same with the shelves. Norm on new yankee built what I’m describing. Super strong and you can use shelf pins. Search on YouTube


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drivesitfar

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Danny: can you post up some pictures of your workbench? also there is a thread in General Tools that is named Woodworking 101 that if i were you i'd ask your questions over there.

i'm waiting for pictures of your bench and wall before I say what i'd do, but i'm not a WOODWORKER just a handy DIY old guy.

good luck
 
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danny_barkley

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Hate to post this because everything is pretty nasty, but here ya go.

The long part of the L is where the shelf will go and it is about 9' or so.

The corner of the L has an Octogon support under there that you cannot see. It is 1 1/2" Cherry veneered plywood

The top is 1 1/2" Cherry veneered Plywood. The surface is 37" front to back.

This was a custom piece of furniture for a Radio Studio.
 

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ScottsGT

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I'd use 3/4 sanded birch ply. Glue and screw all joints using pocket screws. I built a similar shelf for my hobby bench out of scrap ply. Took all of 20 minutes. Use the iron on plywood edging to hide the ply edges.

You're not a woodworker now, but this is the slippery slope that will get you there!
 

Boilerhouse

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For glue, I use Titebond III, but any woodworking glue will work...Elmer's, LePages, etc. I would probably consider a 1/8, or 1/4 inch ply or particle backer board. It adds a ton of strength, prevents racking.
 

dfiler2

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Be sure to put a sturdy back on it to keep the shelves from sagging. You may want to consider using shelf standards and brackets, tey make some pretty nice looking ones. I always cap the front on shelves to give the front more stength, just rip a piece 1 1/4 wide and glue and nail it to the front edge, it also makes the shelf look thicker.

https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?sf_categoryHierarchy=&search=shelf+standards
 

bcoke

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Danny I have built many shelves, built ins,etc......I would go with a cabinet grade plywood [your choice of birch maple etc.] since yo do not want to attach to the wall [french cleat or just bolts through a hanger strip under each shelve] to have it free standing the sides would need a "base" to stand on the bench, use a L-Girder method of shelf construction , lets say a 7 inch shelf with two 1-11/2 inch supports glued and screwed to the underside of the shelf....this is neccessary if you wish to do long shelves [60-70 inches] they will form a channel per say which can be fitted at each end with a corresponding support flush with the shelf end and screwed into the side pieces to position the shelf at the desired height......if you have a router you can router in adado for the shelf end......stain to match the workbench and good to go......just an idea hope it helps .....bobbycoke
 
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danny_barkley

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K'ledgeBldr

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If you just need "shelves"-
Why not just get a bunch of shelf brackets and mount the shelves to the wall? At least you can have the length without interruption of supports; AND there's No Construction!
 
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danny_barkley

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If you just need "shelves"-
Why not just get a bunch of shelf brackets and mount the shelves to the wall? At least you can have the length without interruption of supports; AND there's No Construction!

I would prefer not to deal with the walls. This house has steel studs that are kind of a PITA to deal with. I would rather build some shelves and bracket them to a very solid base.
 

crewchief888

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something like this?

shelves and uprights are simple 1x10 pine

when i originally built this reloading bench 20 years ago, i knew it was going to be moved eventually, so shelves are screwed, not glued. bench base is held together with lag bolts, it's not secured to the concrete block wall i disassembled, moved and reassembled it over 12 years ago
still holding together.

if i was going to build this now, i'd use pocket holes (kreg jig) to attach everything together, and add a 1/4" plywood back.


:beer:
 

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danny_barkley

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something like this?

shelves and uprights are simple 1x10 pine

when i originally built this reloading bench 20 years ago, i knew it was going to be moved eventually, so shelves are screwed, not glued. bench base is held together with lag bolts, it's not secured to the concrete block wall i disassembled, moved and reassembled it over 12 years ago
still holding together.

if i was going to build this now, i'd use pocket holes (kreg jig) to attach everything together, and add a 1/4" plywood back.


:beer:

I gotta look into this pocket hole stuff
 

crewchief888

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I've built quite a few freestanding shelf units as well as a built in butlers pantry in my kitchen using a kreg pocket hole jig. I also use kregs shelf pin jig and have adjustable shelves in all the units I've built in the past 6 or 7 years.

:beer:
 

Kaizen

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If you can use a circular saw and drill you can make this. Forgive the mess. This has two pieces. You would just do the top. Get a shelf pin jig. All plywood 3/4 double layers with solid wood covering the end. Inside layer is 3/4 short so you can put a solid 3/4 back on it. Shelves are ply with 1.5 inch wood to the front creating an Ibeam of sorts for support. The tv is 42” so whatever that is width wide. All that **** and no deflection. This was based on new yankee workshop so you can see the process.
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Jayman17

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I would agree with the post that said 7' is too long of a span. You definitely want to put an edge piece on the front of the shelves for added strength and a back on the whole thing to help with racking. Good luck. BTW that workspace in your photo cannot be considered messy, if you want messy take a look at my shop space :lol_hitti

Jay
 

rjn2649

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I didn't realize you had steel studs, not an expert but I don't think they would hold too much weight. I'm going to agree with what a few members said already.
Check out some you tube videos.
Pocket holes... I have a Kreg jig and it paid for itself.
Edges on the shelves for better support.
Plywood back on the whole thing.
That's a pretty nice looking bench from the pic's. You might also want to consider using the better grade of pine from the bigbox store and staining it to match that bench.
 

drivesitfar

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ALL: if routering out the slots for each shelf isn't in the cards as far as your skills or you don't want to learn I'd buy the KREG JIG and learn how to use it.

also instead of making 7 foot wide shelves i'd put in another upright and have 2 sets of 3.5 foot shelves. with that span you can even drill holes and use the steel or brass pegs to lay shelving on that is adjustable.

good luck
 
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danny_barkley

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I would agree with the post that said 7' is too long of a span. You definitely want to put an edge piece on the front of the shelves for added strength and a back on the whole thing to help with racking. Good luck. BTW that workspace in your photo cannot be considered messy, if you want messy take a look at my shop space :lol_hitti

Jay

You didn't see it before I cleared the top to do some measurements...

Hence the need for some shelves.
 
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danny_barkley

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ALL: if routering out the slots for each shelf isn't in the cards as far as your skills or you don't want to learn I'd buy the KREG JIG and learn how to use it.

also instead of making 7 foot wide shelves i'd put in another upright and have 2 sets of 3.5 foot shelves. with that span you can even drill holes and use the steel or brass pegs to lay shelving on that is adjustable.

good luck

I must not have been clear, but I'm putting uprights down the middle of the shelf.
 
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