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Need to build a work bench

mrpizza

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So the thread title says it all. My wife said if I stack any more tools or greasy **** on the chest freezer she is throwing it away. Needless to say I have the green light to build a work bench. I found this one online and I believe I am going to build it. Any thoughts on it? I don't need anything crazy, I will attach my vise and bench grinder to it. Instead of peg board I will close in the back part.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/video...-workbench-super-simple-50-bench.htm?m_n=true
 
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Fretters

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That type of design should be fine. All you need from a bench is for it to be rugged and sturdy, so design wise you can have a field day. Just make sure you don't skimp on timber thickness or buy crappy timber and you should easily be able to make a bench which will last for donkeys.
 
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7th Kahuna

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Just make sure you don't skimp on timber thickness or buy crappy timber and you should easily be able to make a bench which will last for donkeys.

Agreed, with the possible exception of the donkeys. Not sure what to make of that. :lol:

If a freezer box is working now then that bench will probably be fine. If you are planning to wrench on that vise of yours or otherwise beat on the bench, you might want to beef up the legs and top. It doesn't look like it would survive a lot of side-to-side stress. I am preparing to build a stand alone bench myself. I will be using 3x4 timbers for the legs and 1.25" plywood for the top (supported by 2x4s) with sacrificial masonite hardboard on top of that. I will be jointing the top members into the legs just to make sure the frame is nice and rigid. Give you future plans some thought and then go for it. Good Luck.
 

alex71

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make it out of pallet rack.

Recycled-Heavy-Duty-Workbench-EcoATM-002-LG.jpg


https://www.google.com/search?q=pal...yes.com%2FPallet-Rack-Workbenches.htm;440;587
 
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mrpizza

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I plan on using 3/4" for the top at a minimum, and adding bracing in the corners to sturdy it up. I'm also going to run extra ribs laterally under the top to make that stronger. I don't plan on doing anything too heavy duty with this bench.
 

fozzy

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Looks similar to one that I over-built a while back (without the hutch/top). 3/4" top takes a vise well- I supported it with another small square of 3/4" underneath. I clamped a jointer, planer, and other bench top tools to it without any vibration. Simple design that you can make as sturdy as you want.

Are you anywhere near Rhode Island? I am getting ready to move and have a wider version of the bottom half that I'm looking to get rid of because I am NOT going to move it again.
 

luke7734

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I imagine you won't need too much for a work bench if you were using a freezer before this.. i recommend using 3/4 ply for the top.. put down two layers though.. (use 1" screws from the bottom up.. that way when you destroy the top sheet... zip zip.. off it goes and a new one can be replaced easily)
As for the side bracing I would recommend just using another sheet of ply to make the entire back solid.. that way you can screw into it or whatever (this also limits horizontal travel by the legs attached to it. ;) ..)
speaking of pallet rack benches.. Here's a shot of mine I made.
bygesy4y.jpg

Holy cow I need to clean off my bench.. All that **** was in my truck.. (selling it tomorrow.. )
Anyways good luck ! Take pictures!
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

kenfain

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Over built is the way to go. That gives both weight as well as structure. Mine also has a bottom shelf, which comes in handy, as well as strengthening the legs. You're gonna need that, when you're struggling with whatever you put in the vise. Might want to attach it to a wall, to achieve similar results. Some people use Masonite, for a top, I use a sheet of PVC because it's more durable.
 

56flatbed

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Use 2x6's for the top and let them overlap the sides and front a couple of inches. Great anchor for a vise and room to clamp things to the top. Also anchor it to the wall studs if possible, makes it really solid and can be removed if you need to move it.
 

ez-duzit

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Take a pair of roll-away (or any) base cabinets and set a solid-core door on top.

Bingo! Workbench. Mount a woodworker's vise, flush with the top.
 
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mrpizza

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I think I am going to build the original design, beefed up a tad. I live in southern Illinois, not near Rhode Island.

I do not need a sturdy bench at the current time. I work 95 hours a week or more and I have a few scant hours each week to work on my projects. In a few years I will build a behemoth work bench to handle anything. I just need something to handle basic tasks and the like for 30 more months.


(Yes, I do work about 95 hours a week, sometimes a few less or more. I am a marine corps recruiter and I work 6-7 days a week easily. 7 am to 9 or 10 at night or later.)
 

Outlawmws

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Those work hours are insane..

Do yourself a favor: build the bench you posted with four mods:

  • Lose the funky hutch/top
  • Top it with some Formica countertop with a back splash. I've had mine with that top for over 25 years and its still with me...
  • Add a 2X6 cleat across the back edge so you can anchor it to the wall studs, This makes a HUGE difference in bench stability.
  • Instead of "bracing" it; skin the back and sides of the lower frame with plywood. even 1/4" will do fine for this. Once it's 3/4 of a box its not going to deflect at all...
 
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bareass172

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I had some .pdf plans for a few different benches I was going to attach for more ideas, but the forum size limit wouldn't allow them. PM or email me if you're still considering options, they're just more ideas to throw into the mix.

My suggestions from building a lot of these... Do not use any kind of plywood or MDF as a top, they're sh!t even with bracing. Check with local bowling alleys. when they replace their lanes they sell pieces of the old lanes. It'd be hard to get a more solid top than that. What I've done is use old solid core wood doors OR make my own out of 2x4's. 7 2x4's laid side by side and then wrapped with a 1x4" edge banding make a perfect countertop depth top. Cheap as hell, cut it as long as you want. I use a biscuit joiner to make alignment easy, but with a little glue, clamps and patience it's not terrible. I've actually done this with a Kreg jig to hold them together instead of clamps before (not sure what you have access to). Once it's together I hit it with my surface planer to flatten out the rounded 2x4 edges where they meet and then a quick run over that with a sander to smooth that out. It's really much less work than it sounds like and makes a damn solid top.

Also be sure that whatever you use for legs, support the top and any shelves with blocks or by cutting dados for the shelves to sit on. You want the load carried directly to the ground through the wood, not depending on the shear strength of the fasteners (unless you use heavy lag bolts). I've had 2 friends build benches by just mating wood together and shooting drywall screws through it and then complaining when the screws break from heavy abuse and the thing falls apart. Build it right once and it'll outlast you.
 

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mrpizza

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Outlawms, I do have insane work hours. It's only for three years though then back to my regular job working on helicopters. I'm an avionics tech.

I would screw the thing to the wall but it's a rental I'm in now. I am thinking of making a basic one now. 4x4 legs with the top sectioned out for a 2x4 frame to sit on the legs. Lag bolts to hold it all together. Some sort of thick top an call it a day.
 

bareass172

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If non-permanent is what you're looking for, you might get a couple of ideas from one I built awhile back when I was in a similar situation. I posted some pics of it in this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3768985&postcount=1480

I wanted something sturdy enough to work on but mobile so I could roll it outside and make my mess there buffing, grinding, etc. At the time I also didn't have any other pegboard at all, so I incorporated that also. It's not as functional as some of the other stuff linked that has all sorts of bells and whistles, but it gets the job done and I only used scraps I had around. With the exception of the solid core door top, all the rest of it used to be a bunk bed.

Thanks for the link to the Wandel video, nice one!
 
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mrpizza

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I'm thinking pallets now. I have access to pretty much an unlimited amount of pallets to use if I want. What kind of bench can I make with those? I have no problem buying some wood for a top or whatnot.
 

nicksnothereman

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So the thread title says it all. My wife said if I stack any more tools or greasy **** on the chest freezer she is throwing it away. Needless to say I have the green light to build a work bench. I found this one online and I believe I am going to build it. Any thoughts on it? I don't need anything crazy, I will attach my vise and bench grinder to it. Instead of peg board I will close in the back part.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/video...-workbench-super-simple-50-bench.htm?m_n=true

Use one of those "ponderosa pine" butcher blocks as the work surface. Maybe 15-20 bucks. I have something like that without the top portion. Built it out of hem-fir studs cost me like 20 bucks to make only because my surface is boards instead of a solid surface. It's rock solid though and I add stuff to it all the time (just screw it on:bounce:). I've got so much **** hanging from the supports it's ridiculous...easiest storage solution for me, just throw screws on a piece of stud, strap it to the bench, and throw some wrenches on there, or drill through a stud, strap it to the bench, and put drivers or t handles through it.
 

nicksnothereman

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I'm thinking pallets now. I have access to pretty much an unlimited amount of pallets to use if I want. What kind of bench can I make with those? I have no problem buying some wood for a top or whatnot.

You could stack the pallets then connect them (by the thicker portions) with pieces of wood and put a piece of plywood on tp but you won't have room for a chair or stool with your legs underneath (and look like ****). I recently ripped apart a free pallet topped with maple boards, it was a pita to do because they used ribbed nails (not sure what they're called). Boards weren't in great condition but too good to pass up.
 

Tejaas

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Outlawms, I do have insane work hours. It's only for three years though then back to my regular job working on helicopters. I'm an avionics tech.

I would screw the thing to the wall but it's a rental I'm in now. I am thinking of making a basic one now. 4x4 legs with the top sectioned out for a 2x4 frame to sit on the legs. Lag bolts to hold it all together. Some sort of thick top an call it a day.


I've been exactly where you are.
Military guy living in a rental, and not wanting to construct anything ya get attached to and feel like ya gotta PCS with.

I'd say go with 4x4 legs, and I'd spend a bit more and go with 2x6s for everything else. The extra weight is always a plus!

Top it off with doubled up MDF, and just put a backing plate under your vise.

Quick, cheap, and built like a tank.
The MDF top is easy to flip over and/or replace when it gets too nasty.

This is one of mine, with Oak 4x4s and Pine 2x6s.

8' long x 36" deep x 40" tall.

tu2e7e5e.jpg



~Tejaas~

WTB: Snap-On Orange Hard Handle SSDP63 in Very Good Condition!
 

drivesitfar

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Miles,
i think the pallets mentioned are Pallet racking that they cut down to make the frames of the benches which are made of steel. not sure if you own a truck, but you might also find a really nice workbench in the free section of Craigs.

I've seen several on there that were plenty good for any shop and i'm sure the owner was happy to give them away rather than have to cut them up when moving.

good luck and whichever bench you do decide to make or use if you can put a few screws in the wall i'm pretty sure your landlord will understand if it's in a garage. that will keep if from falling on you when you use your vise for something fairly heavy.
 

GlenC

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For a wood working top, I like to take 2x4 KD studs (individually selected), run through the table saw to remove radius and make all uniform width. Drill holes through the sides (with jig, for alignment of top edge) to bolt together with threaded rod.... Slightly counter-bore the outside for the washer and nut, start stacking tighten. Sand top smooth... Don't have to worry about damaging, can disassemble to replace damaged spots.. Masonite can be applied for a more permanent surface...
 

ez-duzit

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Tempered Masonite makes an excellent work surface. Cheap to replace if you're careless with it. It's smooth surface doesn't mar expensive veneered plywood. And it won't scratch finished work or dull your cutting tools.
 

exmaxima1

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Those work hours are insane..

Do yourself a favor: build the bench you posted with four mods:

  • Lose the funky hutch/top
  • Top it with some Formica countertop with a back splash. I've had mine with that top for over 25 years and its still with me...
  • Add a 2X6 cleat across the back edge so you can anchor it to the wall studs, This makes a HUGE difference in bench stability.
  • Instead of "bracing" it; skin the back and sides of the lower frame with plywood. even 1/4" will do fine for this. Once it's 3/4 of a box its not going to deflect at all...

I like ALL these mods, especially the Formica top---easy to clean, easy to pick up small parts, lasts forever.

An additional suggestion would be to add some drawers underneath. Those are handy for gloves, knives, tape, etc.

PS, you might luck for a top at a garage sale---I just got a 30 x 60 maple butcher block top for $10...
 
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Outlawmws

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I'm thinking pallets now. I have access to pretty much an unlimited amount of pallets to use if I want. What kind of bench can I make with those? I have no problem buying some wood for a top or whatnot.

With the limited free time you have I'd avoid most pallets. I'm all for re-purposing salvage materials (half or more of my shed was made of salvage...) But pallets are a pain.

Watch for a kitchen remod (Craig's List, or join your local Freecycle and post a wanted...) for an old Formica top, and often 2/4's and 2/6's and even 4x4's come up. Heck, often a Kit remod will get you a ready made lower cabinet.

I even used an upper cabinet to make a 4 ft wide one foot deep work bench in my work room where I had limited space.

On anchoring to the garage wall: Is it a finished garage or open stud? If the latter use a couple of deck screws and you can pop them out easily... The LL will never know or care.
 
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Outlawmws

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I like ALL these mods, especially the Formica top---easy to clean, easy to pick up small parts, lasts forever.

An additional suggestion would be to add some drawers underneath. Those are handy for gloves, knives, tape, etc.

PS, you might luck for a top at a garage sale---I just got a 30 x 60 maple butcher block top for $10...

It also has a back splash: no parts "lost over the edge" in back, and most have a "drip roll" on the front edge so fewer parts roll of the front...

Masonite: For what I mostly do, I hate it. But for wood working its great. I made one of my first benches with it for a top. Stayed nice for less than a year, and it was not a nice surface after that, so if you do car/oily/messy work, move up to the Formica...
 

cheechi

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I like this design, though I would make it shorter and do the top a little differently. If you got a pre built butcher block style, or just cut and glued a bunch of 2x4's on end and filled in the gaps, sanded it and epoxy, you can have a better top than just the ply. Or any of the other suggestions though those would be my top choices.
 
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