Need to cool my shop down ASAP

[EddieZ999]

I'm in Houston and just moved into my shop 6 months ago. I knew it would be hot, but it's pretty unbearable to the point I have had to change my schedule to work over night. Let me just get to the point......

The shop has brick on 2 sides, drywall(the shop next to me) on another side, and then the overhead door. I have a 3 year lease so I've decided it is worth it to spend the money and properly cool it. Here's my idea.....Insulate the metal ceiling and overhead door then duct the A/C unit from the office into the shop and also use my portable A/C unit. I've been doing this at night and I can get it down to about 79. I just run the exhaust hose under the overhead door and block the rest of the opening the best I can. Anyone with some advice would be greatly appreciated. What would be my best route as far as insulation at the most cost effective way? I dont have exact measurements, but will try and get some tonight. Here are 2 pics...

 

[930dreamer]

I'd think the office unit will get tired of trying to cool all that space. Do you plan on keeping to the night shift?

 

[EddieZ999]

I am worried about the AC unit as well. Ugh, I'll get the specs on that too tonight. But, that's why I figure insulating it with radiant barrier or something similar would really help. As far as the hours, I work over night all the time anyway because of what I do for a living, but not being able to work in there during the day comfortably is going to really start hurting my customer base. I still do work in there, but I've started making minor mistakes that I know I normally wouldn't make. I guess it's the sweat pouring from my face and the heat doesn't help with the products I use also.

 

[OHMS LAW]

Get one more of those fans, and then just drink a lot of water and Gatorade, it has taken me two weeks to get used to the heat here in town. I go through a case a week of water and Gatorade.

 

[OHMS LAW]

Then you might have to get air conditoning if you need climate control

 

[930dreamer]

Three years of Houston heat will be hell, no A/C expert but maybe something you can remove when the lease is up?

 

[El-tuco]

I do ac for a living. About the best thing you can do and the cheapest is insulate your roof. If you can stop the heat soak you can probably manage it. I would say use a spot cooler and just have it blow in your direction. If your only staying 3 years ,I can't see dropping 15k for ac

 

[JJThrasher]

Mind if I ask what kind of work you're doing in this shop? Performance stuff, detailing, ect? The reason I ask is it looks like you'd be squeezing to get three cars in there. If you're doing small quick stuff you'll have a hell of a time keeping the shop anywhere near cool. Every time that door opens it won't matter how much insulation you have. Now if you're building performance engines and swapping them in cars where you'll be working on the same car for several hours, I can see it being done.

As with any automotive shop in the summer, try to get as much ventilation as possible and keep the air moving with fans. Also if you can avoid it try to not bring hot cars into the shop, let them cool down first. Alternatively do the diagnosis outside, then let it sit and cool down while waiting on parts. Then bring it inside for the repair.

 

[CNGsaves]

Since you've already got hanging light fixtures, I'd go for cheap ceiling like suspended that you can roll out bat insulation above. These materials could even be taken down in 3 yrs at end of lease.

Also, if all you work on are cars (ie don't need maximum height of garage door for pickups), then could make the ceiling same height as what that 2nd picture shows for "office" space.

For A/C I'd recommend a 240v window A/C (maybe 14K Btu to 17 Btu) rigged up on mobile cart and long cord so you can move it near where you're working. Couple good fans are a must as well.

 

[EddieZ999]

Get one more of those fans, and then just drink a lot of water and Gatorade, it has taken me two weeks to get used to the heat here in town. I go through a case a week of water and Gatorade.

I don't mind working in the heat so much depending on the job I'm doing. If I'm doing outside back breaking work I just get myself in a zone and I can stand it. I've lived here for most of my life and I can honestly say I still haven't gotten used to the heat though. Doing my job makes you go nuts though when it's like this.

I do ac for a living. About the best thing you can do and the cheapest is insulate your roof. If you can stop the heat soak you can probably manage it. I would say use a spot cooler and just have it blow in your direction. If your only staying 3 years ,I can't see dropping 15k for ac

Thank you, this is what I'm looking for. What type of insulation do you suggest and just a ball park figure of cost? I'm a DIY type of person, but I almost willing to just pay someone to do it and be done with it. As far as a spot cooler, that's just a bandaid really.

Mind if I ask what kind of work you're doing in this shop? Performance stuff, detailing, ect? The reason I ask is it looks like you'd be squeezing to get three cars in there. If you're doing small quick stuff you'll have a hell of a time keeping the shop anywhere near cool. Every time that door opens it won't matter how much insulation you have. Now if you're building performance engines and swapping them in cars where you'll be working on the same car for several hours, I can see it being done.

As with any automotive shop in the summer, try to get as much ventilation as possible and keep the air moving with fans. Also if you can avoid it try to not bring hot cars into the shop, let them cool down first. Alternatively do the diagnosis outside, then let it sit and cool down while waiting on parts. Then bring it inside for the repair.

I detail cars and do a special type of paint work. These aren't your everyday type of car wash/wax details either. I usually have cars for as long as a week so the big door doesn't have to be opened alot. I'd actually prefer closed for longer periods of time because I don't really like having customers walk into my shop anyway. I'd prefer if they came through the office.

Since you've already got hanging light fixtures, I'd go for cheap ceiling like suspended that you can roll out bat insulation above. These materials could even be taken down in 3 yrs at end of lease.

Also, if all you work on are cars (ie don't need maximum height of garage door for pickups), then could make the ceiling same height as what that 2nd picture shows for "office" space.

Excellent info, thanks. As far as doing the ceiling height thing I'm not quite sure what you mean. I don't think I can make any serious renovations like that.

For A/C I'd recommend a 240v window A/C (maybe 14K Btu to 17 Btu) rigged up on mobile cart and long cord so you can move it near where you're working. Couple good fans are a must as well.

 

[EddieZ999]

A window AC on a cart? Doesn't it have to vent outside?

 

[Drew_flux]

I would insulate the roof and get some big 30" fans from hd.

 

[Flexia]

Look into port-a-cool fans. Its a big fan with water radiator that cools the air off. Its not going to be a ac unit but defiantly cool it off in there and you can take it with you when your done

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[JakeKohl]

Look into port-a-cool fans. Its a big fan with water radiator that cools the air off. Its not going to be a ac unit but defiantly cool it off in there and you can take it with you when your done

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Insulating the roof and doing this would be a good cost effective start.

 

[CNGsaves]

A window AC on a cart? Doesn't it have to vent outside?

Yep . . .gotta be McGyver and creative with some dryer vent flex tube !!

Good luck OP figuring out something to make it bearable. With recent high humidity here and nearly 100 degree temps, I couldn't imagine what Houston garage might feel like with humidity all the time.

 

[930dreamer]

I'd think the Port a fan unit would just add humidity to the air, what about a dehumidifier?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The un-insulated metal roof is the problem. Its like working under a broiler.

Bats of insulation that fill the space between the purlins, and some sort of mesh attached to the bottom flange of the purlin to hold the mesh up..... that would work rather well. Someone on this board has done just that in the past, but I don't recall who, and it was quite some time back.

A swamp cooler in Houston probably would not work well, as you need very low humidity for the evaporation effect. Houston is too humid for that.

Charles

 

[EOC_Jason]

As a fellow Houstonian, I can tell you that insulating the roof makes an immediate difference in the temp of the warehouse.

We've used duct board (don't remember thickness, I'll have to measure if you want me to) held up there by scraps of angle-iron and use foil tape for the seams. A bonus is the foil helps reflect light down.

Also including some pics of the AC units in the back. Simple setup but they work great.

 

[EddieZ999]

Look into port-a-cool fans. Its a big fan with water radiator that cools the air off. Its not going to be a ac unit but defiantly cool it off in there and you can take it with you when your done

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

I was looking at these things and most swamp coolers are no good in the humidity but these are supposed to work well. The only problem is the unit I would need is over $2,000.

The un-insulated metal roof is the problem. Its like working under a broiler.

Bats of insulation that fill the space between the purlins, and some sort of mesh attached to the bottom flange of the purlin to hold the mesh up..... that would work rather well. Someone on this board has done just that in the past, but I don't recall who, and it was quite some time back.

A swamp cooler in Houston probably would not work well, as you need very low humidity for the evaporation effect. Houston is too humid for that.

Charles

Thanks for the info!

As a fellow Houstonian, I can tell you that insulating the roof makes an immediate difference in the temp of the warehouse.

We've used duct board (don't remember thickness, I'll have to measure if you want me to) held up there by scraps of angle-iron and use foil tape for the seams. A bonus is the foil helps reflect light down.

Also including some pics of the AC units in the back. Simple setup but they work great.

That's a very nice setup. I could only dream of having something like that. I have decided to actually move units. It's a shame because I did a ton of work in the current unit such as the floor epoxy and painted the walls. But, the new unit has central AC going into the offices, which I can just duct into the warehouse area very easily. I still need to insulate the ceiling though. But, for only $75 more a month it's worth it to me.

 

[motormitch]

Well just in case someone else reads this thread, I'll post my suggestion even though you have solved the problem by moving.

I have tried portable AC under the door and unless you have a real window to mount the intake/exhaust panel into that seals well, you are pouring money away. You have to use those units exactly as described. They do work when done properly. They have saved my bacon in our house here in Austin when my primary AC has failed in the past.

Here is the best answer if you can do it. A ductless split AC system. I have one in my home garage and two in the man cave which is inside a large warehouse style building. What is needed is simple. A 3" hole in a exterior wall and 220V 30A power. All of mine are Mitsubishi Mr. Slim products. They are unbelievable! The one that cools my normal uninsulated 3 car garage to 70 in 105 outside weather cost me 2100 for unit (ebay) and an afternoon of time to install and one electric 220v hookup by a professional for $250. If I ever build a new house, I am going full ductless across the board.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

In Mass things may be different, but when I had the energy audit done on my house the guy mentioned units that function as heaters and air conditioners in one. He told me that it is something that could be covered by the energy audit program even in the garage since it has a meter seperate from the house.

For A/C I'd recommend a 240v window A/C (maybe 14K Btu to 17 Btu) rigged up on mobile cart and long cord so you can move it near where you're working. Couple good fans are a must as well.

I would not reccomend that. AC units produce a ton of heat, It would surely be fighting itself.

At work we use little fans that sit on the ground and can pivot up and down. Kind of a squirrel cage set up. Working with that thing in front of you can be nice.