Need to drill out a spot weld without drilling totally through...

[firebird1999us]

I'm trying to remove a riser in my spare tire compartment to fit a full sized spare. The riser its meant to keep the space saver spare in place and is just made out of metal and welded to the main tub of the car. I'm trying to find something that will allow me to cleanly remove the 6 weld points to the tub of the car without drilling through the tube of the car and into the gas tank mounted below.

I attached a pic of a guy that removed his with a hammer but ended up tearing holes where the welds were at.

I came across this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XML5HK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Any suggestions?

 

[PCO6]

The kit you provided a link to will work well. I've been using that type for as long as I can remember.

 

[firebird1999us]

The kit you provided a link to will work well. I've been using that type for as long as I can remember.

Awesome thanks!

It confused me because they kept referencing a pilot hole...

 

[The Cobbler]

I think you need the pilot drill to keep the cutter centered. on that set

 

[MoonRise]

That version looks like it has a solidly mounted center drill section. Which WILL drill all the way through things.

Look at the 'related' items for the spot weld cutters that just have a center 'point' that is spring-loaded (to help center the cutter onto the existing spot weld, sometimes with using a center punch to put in a 'starting' dimple).

Like this type:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789JLF16/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[PCO6]

I think you need the pilot drill to keep the cutter centered. on that set

I agree. It used to be recommended that you hit the original spot weld with a centre punch. I found that the spring loaded spot weld cutter wandered a bit. I always drill a small guide hole or at least a "divit" to keep the spot weld cutter on track.

 

[Nineeightyone]

I'm not a welder or anything, but do you know the depth? You could either put masking tape on the drill bit, or maybe use an angle grinder to shave the welds down as close as possible and then smack the piece off of the tub, since the grinder would weaken the welded area(s) so that it would break instead of damaging the tub.

 

[MoonRise]

Or you can also use an abrasive cut-off wheel (Dremel, or cut-off tool, or angle grinder, or die grinder) and just use the periphery/edge of the abrasive disk to gently nibble/grind away the top material where the spot weld is located.

Not quite as quick or neat as a spot weld cutter, and messes up the 'top' piece way more than a spot weld cutter, but it can work just fine.

 

[cmandp]

I have not used the blair style cutters that are more like a hole saw.

But I have used spot weld drills like this one

They will only leave a small divit in the panel underneath if you drill square.

 

[CobraRed]

Most body guys use these small belt sanders now-a-days

 

[toplessHO]

I have not used the blair style cutters that are more like a hole saw.

But I have used spot weld drills like this one

They will only leave a small divit in the panel underneath if you drill square.

I have one of those and the cheapy spring loaded ones.
They both work,but heed help from a spring loaded center punch to stay centered.
Ive made a pair of visegrips that hold the bit steady ,but in this case theres no access.

 

[firebird1999us]

I have not used the blair style cutters that are more like a hole saw.

But I have used spot weld drills like this one

They will only leave a small divit in the panel underneath if you drill square.

Thanks! This may be a winner... I'll get a small center punch to knock a small guide divet in the top of the weld as a guide and then slowly drill in with this!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149JCJEM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Kaizen]

If you are not going to do a lot of this go grab the hf spring loaded ones. Cheap and work well for 100 or so. Problem I see is cutting through. Very difficult to gauge it. That bracket looks thicker then the floor. If you are good with a cut off wheel I’d try that first. And air hammer will help separate the panels but careful or you will punch through. Also just a drill bit with a center point works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bill Bowman]

Usually, the cutter takes enough meat of the weld off, so a chisel will rip the piece off without tearing a hole in the base piece.

 

[Wamsutta]

Most body guys use these small belt sanders now-a-days

That's correct. And then after using that, they go in with a putty knife to separate the two layers of joined sheet metal. No hole left behind.

 

[finn]

Mini belt grinder works fine. The Astro is better than the HF.

If it’s just a few welds, try the cheap spring loaded HF bit first.

For a lot of spot welde, the Blair cutter or the mini belt sander are preferred.

A thin cutoff wheel works too, but often makes a mess.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

My spot weld remover drawer.

IMG_3830 by eric2406, on Flickr

Nothing faster nothing easier then dent fix nothing.

IMG_3889 by eric2406, on Flickr

Blair non pilot hole. Fixed pilot hole wivco. Kent pro bit.

IMG_3886 by eric2406, on Flickr

Bit for dent fix. Wivco fixed. Wivco adjustable.

IMG_3888 by eric2406, on Flickr

IMG_3887 by eric2406, on Flickr

My suggestion. The Blair non pilot hole or wivco adjustable. The bits for the dent fix by themselves ****, better options. Those cheap cutters from horror freight are just that cheap junk.

 

[ttpete]

I've taken hundreds of spot welds out with Hougen Rotabroach cutters. They have a spring loaded center that seats in a center punch mark. Once the cutter cuts a complete circle, it pilots itself the rest of the way. You just have to be careful and stop when the first layer is cut through.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LY4E0Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rlitman]

Or you can also use an abrasive cut-off wheel (Dremel, or cut-off tool, or angle grinder, or die grinder) and just use the periphery/edge of the abrasive disk to gently nibble/grind away the top material where the spot weld is located.

Not quite as quick or neat as a spot weld cutter, and messes up the 'top' piece way more than a spot weld cutter, but it can work just fine.

I'd go at it with a ball shaped stone in a die grinder.

 

[kctyphoon]

Dremel - small grinding stone - hammer..

Or you can try a bigger drill bit, and just drill slow.

 

[f121]

I've tried a few different types and settled on this style: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMMSSE8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Ideally centre punch it first, I just use a hammer and punch, nothing fancy, then drill it out gently. If you've not done it before and it really matters not to go through, practice on some scrap first. The first weld is always a pita, once you have some movement in the panel you can jam a blade between the two layers so you can see it release as you go through the weld.

 

[RAYJAY]

use this style here bought them from Eastwood years ago, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789JLF16/?tag=atomicindus08-20


just center punch before you drill use some oil on cutter will help

 

[gorilla]

I've done a lot of spot weld removing in the last couple of years so my vote is for the small belt sander. It's more controllable the the roto broach cutter in my opinion and is a handy tool to have around.

 

[emeraldcoupe]

believe it or not, the hf spot weld cutters work amazingly well.
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-63657.html

 

[Tbender78]

I too have used the HF spot weld cutter. Works really well. You still may need to use a die grinder if you miss some of the spot weld.