Need to hang 6x6 header between two posts- HOW?

[Itsjustdirt]

I need to hang a 6x6 load bearing header in the basement to support floor joists above. The header needs to go between two 6x6 posts. I know I can use a concealed face hanger on one side, but what about the other side? I'd rather not use a jack stud on either side for aesthetics. I'm hoping they make some sort of hanger that will work? There is no lumber/attachment point on the side of the posts, meaning a traditional hanger will have nothing to screw into. A concealed hanger would be great but I obviously cant get a beam into a space with two concealed hangers....

 

[matt_i]

Weld your own hangers out of 1/4" steel?

Something like an angle iron shape with 4-6" legs would be the start and gusset both ends.

Use GRK -RSS screws proportional to the loads that are involved.

 

[My Old Tools]

You can't get it on top of the posts?

 

[LXCam]

Pocket/notch both 6x6 posts and slide it in.

 

[kbs2244]

6 inch lengths of 4x4 angle iron.
3 lag screw holes in each face

 

[fasteddie]

Pocket/notch both 6x6 posts and slide it in.

That's the way to go, traditional joinery.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Check out the Simpson catalog. They make a lot of engineered and approved steel hangers for wood framing.

 

[NUTTSGT]

A concealed hanger would be great but I obviously cant get a beam into a space with two concealed hangers....

If you can support the second end, you can probably get the second hanger in after the header is in place.



EDIT: oops you said concealed hanger, I was thinking a regular hanger.

 

[RocketScott]

6 inch lengths of 4x4 angle iron.
3 lag screw holes in each face

That's probably your best bet although I would add some side plates too.

I framed a restaurant years ago that had some good size glulams held up by 6x6 posts. In stead of hangers the engineer called out plates on either side with through bolts. Nothing under the beams (he wanted the posts to be continuous to a higher roof). IIRC it was 1/2" plate with 3/4" bolts (not just some dinky simpson 12 gauge plate).

I've also done some kerf plate connections:

http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/vmuqogo9a7/C-C-2017-p380.pdf

It's a little more work to get everything lined up just right.

 

[MoonRise]

Actual load bearing header attachment to the support posts WITHOUT any jack posts to actually hold up the load from the header?

Check Simpson to see if they have anything.

Probably have to go with some sort of bolted flange (on the faces or hidden in a kerf on your header's end).

And waaay thicker than 12 gauge. Probably 1/4"+ thick steel plate, through bolted and possibly also some angle iron 'ledges' for the ends of the header to rest on.

If you don't find an already 'designed' item in the Simpson catalog/website, you'll probably also need an actual engineer to spec out the needed plate thickness and attachment requirements and he/she will have to put their P.E. (Professional Engineer) stamp on the plans.

Otherwise you can just put your header/beam on top of the needed post(s) so that the floor load goes onto the header/beam and then straight down onto the post(s) and from there down to the foundation.

All do-able, but not really something to just 'wing it' if this is actually holding up your house or a part of it.

 

[tarmy]

Um...where are you. This could inform your connector decision.

Are you dealing with a shear plane or wall?

Are you in earthquake country, like me, where heave is an issue? You must tie the base support down as well in that case...

What would code direct...jack studs?

What is tied to or supported by the connections?

Might want to be a bit thoughtful on what is driving the decision as to connection point.