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Need to make a thin Nylock nut

cspcrx

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I have search high and low and spent hours on the phone looking for a thin, like a jam nut, nylon lock nut in 14mm metric fine thread. It appears you can get them in standard thread but not metric, just do not exist.

I got a standard Nylon Lock nut but now am trying to figure out a way to cut it down, so it is not as tall. Anyone ever done this and if so how? My initial though was thread it onto a rod and cut it. This leads to the next issue which is I do not have a band saw. I have access to one but do not own one.

Thanks all.
 
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mike93lx

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how about getting a standard one in a size smaller and then drill and re-tap it?

if you go the belt sander/grinder route, i would stop a couple times and cool it off in water, otherwise I expect the nylon could melt
 

ilovevocs

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Depending on the level of finish, I would do what you proposed. Thread on a bolt or all thread and cut it with an Angle grinder? It would take some engineering to know how many threads you should have left for your application.

Their are countless ways to handle this; mine would be: Lathe, mandrel, carbide tooling.

Bandsaw typically use HSS cutting edge; the bolts hardened, a bandsaw would not be my tool of choice.
 

yaidunno

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Have done it many of time. You'll need a lathe, an M14 mandrel (bolt), and a backing nut. Thread the nyloc nut onto the bolt as you normally would. This will put an impression into the nylon material. Remove. Install your jam nut, and then the nyloc, except this time with the nylon end first. Chuck this up into a lathe on the shank of the bolt. This may require you to remove the hex from the bolt. Face the nut until the desired thickness.

I would strongly advise against trying this on a band saw. You will likely not get the nut face square enough to be useful.
 

MoonRise

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Purpose of this thin nylock nut?

Because the various anerobic threadlocker compounds (aka Loctite) are rather useful substances.

If you really-really have to 'make' a thin jam nut nylock nut out of a regular section nylock nut, I'd tend more towards the mentioned sand or grind or file the 'back' face down. Install the nut 'backwards' onto a threaded faster and then thin down the back face as desired.

(reason for putting the nut backwards onto a bolt or threaded rod is to give you something to hold onto and also to minimize buggering up the threads.)

Note that said sanding/grinding/filing will (obviously) remove any plating or coating on the back face, so just be aware of that for corrosion issues.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_hex_lock_nuts_nylon_insert_Zinc_plated_class_8.8_steel.aspx

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6894
 

larry_g

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I would strongly advise against trying this on a band saw. You will likely not get the nut face square enough to be useful.

Read the note on getting it square, this is a must. I have done this on a grinder with the mandrel and nut chucked in a drill motor so the nut is spun by the drill motor as it is presented to the grinding wheel.

I'm curious why the ny-loc is required vs some other locking nut or loctite?

Would these work http://www.fastenright.com/all-metal-self-locking-nut-thin ?

lg
no neat sig line
 
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sailah

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I have search high and low and spent hours on the phone looking for a thin, like a jam nut, nylon lock nut in 14mm metric fine thread. It appears you can get them in standard thread but not metric, just do not exist.

I got a standard Nylon Lock nut but now am trying to figure out a way to cut it down, so it is not as tall. Anyone ever done this and if so how? My initial though was thread it onto a rod and cut it. This leads to the next issue which is I do not have a band saw. I have access to one but do not own one.

Thanks all.


If you send me the nut and the 14mm bolt to grab in the lathe I'll turn it down as thin as you want.:beer:
 

Kevin54

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You can't belt sand a Nyloc because the heat will damage the nylon insert if you have it on something. The nylon insert will have to remain cool.
 

rlitman

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Read the note on getting it square, this is a must. I have done this on a grinder with the mandrel and nut chucked in a drill motor so the nut is spun by the drill motor as it is presented to the grinding wheel.

I'm curious why the ny-loc is required vs some other locking nut or loctite?

+1 Though I would point out that the nylon is far more heat sensitive than the steel, so be careful when grinding.

But I too wonder why a nyloc is necessary. A nyloc is wider than a standard nut because of the space the nylon takes up. Even if you grind off all but the last turn of the threads (which will leave you with a miserably weak result), you'll still have something about as thick as a standard nut.

A distorted thread nut (top or center locking) is no larger than a standard nut to begin with, resists backing off as well as a nyloc, and is generally better in almost any condition I can think of.
 

rsanter

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with a nylock nut you cannot thread it on and then reuse it and know it will hold the same. they are really a one use nut.

if you do it on a lathe you will have to grab the bolt in the chuck. thread the nut on the bolt but don't get the bolt into the nylon. then you will have to thin the nut 'from the back side' so to speak without putting enough force on it that it threads itself into the nylon

how critical of an application is this?

bob
 
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cspcrx

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Found this: Link Not sure if thin enough?

Also found this: Link Not sure if they have fine thread.

Chrs

Thanks all for your responses. This exactly what I was looking for and when I spoke to the local Fastenal the guy said they could not get them. Just called and they will have them this Friday. Amazing how the answer changed in one week and a different person. Thank you very much.
 
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cspcrx

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If you send me the nut and the 14mm bolt to grab in the lathe I'll turn it down as thin as you want.:beer:

Thank you for the very kind offer! See what I get from Fastenal this Friday. IF it still doesn't work I may hit you up.
 

4EyedTurd

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I don't remember where I saw it but someone suggested using nylon? fishing string in a pinch. Stick the fishing string threw the nut and start it on the bolt. Nyloc in a pinch, but I've never tried it.
 

kerrynzl

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I don't remember where I saw it but someone suggested using nylon? fishing string in a pinch. Stick the fishing string threw the nut and start it on the bolt. Nyloc in a pinch, but I've never tried it.

Or you can make the Bolt equivalent

Just flatten a few threads with a ballpeen hammer :thumbup:
 

garfunkle24

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Thanks all for your responses. This exactly what I was looking for and when I spoke to the local Fastenal the guy said they could not get them. Just called and they will have them this Friday. Amazing how the answer changed in one week and a different person. Thank you very much.

Happy to help! Report back please :thumbup:
 
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Ed ke6bnl

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I made one but it was much bigger 5/8 in the lathe BUT later changed it to a split ring type nut with a cap screw to tighten and lock. this was on the suspension for the kingpin bolt on my offroad buggy and now it never is an issue. but not sure if they are available that small for your purpose.
 
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cspcrx

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I'm not sure what you're doing with it. But, I would have tried using jam nut with dab of clear silicon behind it.

I have Koni struts on the front of my race toy. The top is secured with either a double jam nut or lock nut. The problem I have is I am now using some custom camber/caster plates and it uses a spherical bearing. I have to use a space between the bearing and the nut otherwise it freezes the bearing from moving. That spacer takes up the room of one of the jam nuts.

So I am stuck with either using one jam nut and some thread locker or a thin nylon nut. There is not a lot of load on these just need to keep it secure. Fastenal said the nuts will be in Friday. I hope they will work.

I appreciate everyone's ideas on solving this. That is what I love about this forum! Lots of great minds to help me get back out there :3gears:

Thanks all
 

eddiemeddiem

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If the fastenall route doesn't work, my vote is for: loctite, double jam nut, peen the male threads just above the nut after its tight... In that order
 

rlitman

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...peen the male threads just above the nut...

Instead of damaging the male threads, you're better off deforming the nut.
Before installing the nut, you can use a pin punch to deform three points on one face of the nut, which should deform the threads sufficiently to make the nut fit quite tightly.
 
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cspcrx

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I will keep that in mind. Only being able to get one jam nut on there I know it will come lose if I do not use something else or find a way to secure it. I hope what shows up Friday is what they described. Easier fix. I will let you know how it goes.
 

Ed ke6bnl

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I will keep that in mind. Only being able to get one jam nut on there I know it will come lose if I do not use something else or find a way to secure it. I hope what shows up Friday is what they described. Easier fix. I will let you know how it goes.

why not use what I was talking about the split nut with a fastener, I also did not have room for a double nut and the trimmed down nyloc did not hold tight enough although it never came off but backed off a bit.http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-Stainle...761433?hash=item5b04ee7959:g:tk0AAOSwd4tUCKPW

mine is with threads not just a slip on collar.
 

SM Racing

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I have Koni struts on the front of my race toy. The top is secured with either a double jam nut or lock nut. The problem I have is I am now using some custom camber/caster plates and it uses a spherical bearing. I have to use a space between the bearing and the nut otherwise it freezes the bearing from moving. That spacer takes up the room of one of the jam nuts.

So I am stuck with either using one jam nut and some thread locker or a thin nylon nut. There is not a lot of load on these just need to keep it secure. Fastenal said the nuts will be in Friday. I hope they will work.

I appreciate everyone's ideas on solving this. That is what I love about this forum! Lots of great minds to help me get back out there :3gears:

Thanks all

Couple of options here.

Chuck the shock shaft up in the lathe and machine it down slightly below the threads to gain a bit more length.

Combine the spacer and the lower locknut. Start with piece of hex stock. Machine it to the diameter of the spacer and thread the internal bore to the thread pitch of the strut shaft.

I am a bit confused though, I have built several sets of Koni 8611 race inserts and they all had more than enough thread to run a .750 spherical bearing in the upper shock mount. Another thing to keep in mind your lowered race car won't pivot the upper strut shaft anywhere near as much as a street car. I expect you have about 3in total shock travel at ride height.
 

Gumby919

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What about using safety wire? You will get the locking action without sacrificing any threads. You can use a jig to drill the hole and your good to go and don't have to worry about it ever coming loose:thumbup:
 

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eddiemeddiem

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Instead of damaging the male threads, you're better off deforming the nut.

Before installing the nut, you can use a pin punch to deform three points on one face of the nut, which should deform the threads sufficiently to make the nut fit quite tightly.


Nah, it won't damage the male threads... Whenever the nut is forced back over the threads, it'll chase them and clean them right up. It won't loosen easily or on its own, it'll have to be forced with a wrench. Might have a hard time deforming the face of a small nut with a pin punch.

No offense intended, just my opinion...
 
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cspcrx

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I was looking at this last night and someone I believe hinted at it. Machine or grind off the hex towards the bottom half of the bolt. This would allow me to ditch the spacer as the bottom half of the bolt would be rounded just like it and give me full thread contact. If the short jam nylock doesn't come through or work I may go that route. I feel I could do that with my grinder, basically making the bottom of the nut round.

I really appreciate everyone jumping in with their thoughts on this. Gives me hope for other solutions to the problem.
 
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cspcrx

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nuts came in from Fastenal and they are not nylock jam nuts they are full size nuts. I got them anyway. Looking at it further I have an idea. Lets say the side of the nut, how tall it is, is 1/2 inch tall. Using a lathe or something could the lower 1/4 inch, lower half, be turned to be round so it would have not hex pattern? Right now I have room for the spacer and one jam nut. Doing this would combine the space and nut into one.

I appreciate the help guys!
 

Ed ke6bnl

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seem like you could put a nut on a rod with threads on the end put a jam nut on first then put the nylock on so it stops before getting to the nylon and jam the jam nut up against it and turn the section away you do not need on the nylock. sees like that is reasonable.
 
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cspcrx

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Called Spruce and no M14, nothing that large. Thanks for the link.

SM I will get some shots. I can send you some M14 nyloc nuts that I got from Fastenal. I will IM you to get an address. I really appreciate the help. Nothing is ever easy when it is custom and you do not have advanced machining tools.
 

Cameo

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Stacey David Quick tips

Nylon fishing line through the nut a couple times on a jam nut should work.
 
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Using a lathe or something could the lower 1/4 inch, lower half, be turned to be round so it would have not hex pattern? QUOTE]

I do this all the time on the shock nuts on my race cars to eliminate the separate spacer. If you want to send me some of the nuts I can do them for you it only takes a minute
 
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