Need to Plane a door

[Jsf721]

I installed new doors in my house a few months ago after the storm. Everything was good until it started getting hot. My wife called to tell me the lock was broken and she could not get into the house frm the garage. My 14 Year Old poped it open and said it is just "stuck"

Looks like it is swelling. I do not own a plane but do own a palm sander.

Can someone tell me what I need so I can pick it up on my way home and get this knocked out tonight?

As always, thank you.

 

[Kevin54]

You'll either need a Power Plane, a hand plane, or a belt sander. If it's a wood door, you can use a hand plane, if it's a metal or fiberglass door, then you'll need a power plane, or a belt sander. The easiest, pick up a small belt sander and go at it. If it's really tight, the palm sander may not have enough *** to do the job. It's hard to tell how tight it is by the description,"my 14 year old popped it open". I've saw some 14 year olds that are huge linebackers.

 

[shoot summ]

See where it is sticking before you do anything. Is the door painted all around? What about the jamb? Most often doors don't expand in hot weather, do a little diagnostics on the issue first.

It's possible the jamb isn't plumb, you might be able to fix the issue with a well placed screw in the jamb to pull it out some.

 

[SJShaw672]

Something similar happened to our bathroom door. We tried using a hand plane but it was easier to use an electric planer. Why not see if you can borrow one from someone?

 

[rlitman]

Most often doors don't expand in hot weather

True, but humidity will certainly swell a wood door, and on Long Island, the two pretty much always go together.

You can plane the door, or you can re-shim the jamb. Planing the door is easier, but will require re-painting. Because of this, you want to plane a little extra, to make up for the space the paint will take up.

 

[Jsf721]

It is a wood door and the jamb is metal. Both are painted and I can certianly paint again.

How do you tell where it is sticking.

My 14 year old is a 5'11, 145 lb wrestler/Baseball/basketball player. He could most likely pop open the door if it wass locked.

You'll either need a Power Plane, a hand plane, or a belt sander. If it's a wood door, you can use a hand plane, if it's a metal or fiberglass door, then you'll need a power plane, or a belt sander. The easiest, pick up a small belt sander and go at it. If it's really tight, the palm sander may not have enough *** to do the job. It's hard to tell how tight it is by the description,"my 14 year old popped it open". I've saw some 14 year olds that are huge linebackers.

See where it is sticking before you do anything. Is the door painted all around? What about the jamb? Most often doors don't expand in hot weather, do a little diagnostics on the issue first.

It's possible the jamb isn't plumb, you might be able to fix the issue with a well placed screw in the jamb to pull it out some.

Something similar happened to our bathroom door. We tried using a hand plane but it was easier to use an electric planer. Why not see if you can borrow one from someone?

 

[LB-1911]

If it is painted look for rub marks - as an example -

HOW TO FIX A STICKING DOOR

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=E4qHdcTs-AM

 

[Outlawmws]

The door itself is NOT swelling, what happens is the house settles as the earth dries (Or gets wet/frozen...) and and the jamb shifts.

The suggestion on adjusting the jamb was dead on so FIRST see where it is making contact, THEN decide if a screw in the jamb will pull it out, or if the door needs shaving. (Assuming it's a wood door. if fiberglass or metal you need to fix the jamb... You will NOT power plane it without destroying the tool, and sanding is likely to destroy a metal door (its a thin sheet metal skin) or damage the door if fiberglass.)

 

[Outlawmws]

Missed the metla jamb/wood door comment:

Shave the door, look for rub marks on either the door or the jamb, and also check for loose hinges. that sometimes does it also.

If it is catching on the top edge away from the hinges, you can shim the top hinge (thin cardboard) and probably get it to clear.

 

[Jsf721]

Thanks for the link. I will check tonight.

If it is painted look for rub marks - as an example -

HOW TO FIX A STICKING DOOR

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=E4qHdcTs-AM

 

[Jsf721]

I will try with a screw driver tonight either tightening or adding a shim. If not, Power Planer City it is

The door itself is NOT swelling, what happens is the house settles as the earth dries (Or gets wet/frozen...) and and the jamb shifts.

The suggestion on adjusting the jamb was dead on so FIRST see where it is making contact, THEN decide if a screw in the jamb will pull it out, or if the door needs shaving. (Assuming it's a wood door. if fiberglass or metal you need to fix the jamb... You will NOT power plane it without destroying the tool, and sanding is likely to destroy a metal door (its a thin sheet metal skin) or damage the door if fiberglass.)

Missed the metla jamb/wood door comment:

Shave the door, look for rub marks on either the door or the jamb, and also check for loose hinges. that sometimes does it also.

If it is catching on the top edge away from the hinges, you can shim the top hinge (thin cardboard) and probably get it to clear.

 

[StevePgh]

+1 on making sure the frame/jamb is properly shimmed. The top of the frame and the top of the door should both be level. I'd consider this first, especially since you just installed the door (and I am imagining the frame as well).

Failing that, a good old Harbor Freight power planer ($35 sale less 20% coupon) worked for me on my parent's doors (metal frames, been there forever, no possibility of adjusting). My suggestion if using a power planer is to attach a block of scrap wood at the ends of the door where you are trimming with a pipe clamp (I like the kind with feet - $6 to $10 plus a length of pipe). This will prevent tear out/chipping at the ends, and minimize sniping at the ends if the scrap has enough depth.

 

[Jim C.]

Something similar happened to our bathroom door. We tried using a hand plane but it was easier to use an electric planer...........

My guess is that the hand plane cutting iron wasn't even remotely close to being sharp enough to do the job. If it was TRULY sharp, and set to take a light pass, the hand plane should have done the job with no trouble at all if the door was made out of wood. With the exception of a few manufacturers, most planes will cut very poorly right out of the box. Their irons usually need to be honed, but most often, really need a good sharpening and polishing. If you used a plane that came from the local hardware store, or big box store, etc., and you did nothing else to it before using it, I guarantee that it wasn't tuned nor sharp enough to cut much more than butter let alone an oak, or even pine door.

Jim C.

 

[Jsf721]

Any change you can find a pic ofg the clamps and how they would be attached? I have scrap 2x4 and would pick up the clamps when I get the power planer from HF.

+1 on making sure the frame/jamb is properly shimmed. The top of the frame and the top of the door should both be level. I'd consider this first, especially since you just installed the door (and I am imagining the frame as well).

Failing that, a good old Harbor Freight power planer ($35 sale less 20% coupon) worked for me on my parent's doors (metal frames, been there forever, no possibility of adjusting). My suggestion if using a power planer is to attach a block of scrap wood at the ends of the door where you are trimming with a pipe clamp (I like the kind with feet - $6 to $10 plus a length of pipe). This will prevent tear out/chipping at the ends, and minimize sniping at the ends if the scrap has enough depth.

 

[StevePgh]

Any change you can find a pic ofg the clamps and how they would be attached? I have scrap 2x4 and would pick up the clamps when I get the power planer from HF.

Pipe Clamp:

You'd need to get a section of pipe that is width of door plus width of your blocks plus the size of the clamps (8" or so, I'm guessing). The beauty of pipe clamps is you can make them any size and they hold good pressure.

You'd do something like this picture - just use the clamp to securely hold the wood block(s) to the edge of the door and keep it lined up exactly with where you are planing.

Keep the planer on the lowest possible cut depth and do as few swipes as possible. If all you need to do is a corner, you can keep the planer off the wood a few inches before where you need to shave and slowly guide the planer down and forward, which will minimize the visibility of where you started planing. It's not that difficult - the key is to practice the technique on scrap and make sure you keep the planer square to the top of the door. Have the door in a position where it is held stable and in a position that gives you good control of the planer. After doing several passes at three doors, I've become a pro at it.

 

[shoot summ]

True, but humidity will certainly swell a wood door, and on Long Island, the two pretty much always go together.

You can plane the door, or you can re-shim the jamb. Planing the door is easier, but will require re-painting. Because of this, you want to plane a little extra, to make up for the space the paint will take up.

Correct, humidity will, heat by itself will not.

It is a wood door and the jamb is metal. Both are painted and I can certianly paint again.

How do you tell where it is sticking.

My 14 year old is a 5'11, 145 lb wrestler/Baseball/basketball player. He could most likely pop open the door if it wass locked.

Look at the door from the inside, check the gap between the door and the jamb, you should be able to tell where it is sticking. If it is that bad the door will probably have some scuffs on it as well. Check the knob and dead bolt also, are they loose? Are they sticking? What about your hinges, are the screws tight or are they loose?

A good(sharp) plane should make short work of it if it is the door. A power plane can get out of hand very quickly if you don't know what you are doing.

 

[shoot summ]

Pipe Clamp:

You'd need to get a section of pipe that is width of door plus width of your blocks plus the size of the clamps (8" or so, I'm guessing). The beauty of pipe clamps is you can make them any size and they hold good pressure.

You'd do something like this picture - just use the clamp to securely hold the wood block(s) to the edge of the door and keep it lined up exactly with where you are planing.

Keep the planer on the lowest possible cut depth and do as few swipes as possible. If all you need to do is a corner, you can keep the planer off the wood a few inches before where you need to shave and slowly guide the planer down and forward, which will minimize the visibility of where you started planing. It's not that difficult - the key is to practice the technique on scrap and make sure you keep the planer square to the top of the door. Have the door in a position where it is held stable and in a position that gives you good control of the planer. After doing several passes at three doors, I've become a pro at it.

If you are going to go to that much effort make some door jacks and turn the door on it's edge, 100% easy to work with than on it's side.

 

[wrenchguy]

more likely sagging off top hinge screws and probably not shimmed behind bottom hinge area of jamb causing it to be cockeyed in the opening. check ur margins (gap) top to bottom both sides....should be the same and a equal amount of space. most likely no margin hinge side bottom and no margin knob side top. shim behind lower hinge, draw in hinge into framing long screw top hinge. if the door is latex finished it will swell. tops and bottoms need to be sealed too. gravity works!!! good luck.

 

[CNGsaves]

If it's not readily noticeable where the "rub marks" are to show where door is hanging, use some chalk (ie like kid's sidewalk chalk) to rub on door where you think it's rubbing. The chalk will transfer to the door jamb (and rub off door) and show you where door needs planed. Good luck.

 

[wrenchguy]

"It is a wood door and the jamb is metal."

somewhat unusual, mostly residential around here use wood jambs, steelclad doors. good luck.

 

[hofferwood]

Rubbing door (Breezeway)

$8.00 for a plane

Fixed up the plane

Nice sharp Iron (the frog opened his mouth just right)

Door closes perfect

IMG]http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab269/hofferwood/plane/P5060442_zps75ef975f.jpg[/IMG]

Chuck

 

[kenfain]

If your looking for easiest and fastest, and fixing what the real problem is. Most likely you need to re plumb the whole thing. I just don't think it's the door swelling. It's almost always a plumb issue. Plus you just put it in. Seems most likely. Sometimes it happens. Doors are simple. But if you don't do a lot of em they can be tricky. You plane or sand on that door, you will change it forever. You can't put it back. All I'm saying is take a couple minutes. Check plumb ,square, use a level on it. Make sure before you mess with it. Good luck!

 

[Jsf721]

Got home to fax the door. Figures. It is in the 50s so the door works flawlessly.

 

[Jsf721]

Good advice and I will check that before I go am compensate with a power planer for my lack of carpentry skills. LOL

I did make sure the screws were tight on both the door jam and door sides of the hinge. Did not get them more than a 1/8 or 1/4 turn tighter and I don't think that did much.

I need to wait for a hot humid day to be sure if the issue is fixed or re-appears.

If your looking for easiest and fastest, and fixing what the real problem is. Most likely you need to re plumb the whole thing. I just don't think it's the door swelling. It's almost always a plumb issue. Plus you just put it in. Seems most likely. Sometimes it happens. Doors are simple. But if you don't do a lot of em they can be tricky. You plane or sand on that door, you will change it forever. You can't put it back. All I'm saying is take a couple minutes. Check plumb ,square, use a level on it. Make sure before you mess with it. Good luck!