Need Water Heater Advice

[Bruce Amacker]

Hey Guys, I'm thinking I need a new water heater (duh!) as it quit making hot water. Upon quick inspection, it's leaking from a fitting above it too, so maybe I'm lucky it quit before flooding the basement. We think it's about 12 years old, it has a 2008 build date on it. Just two of us in the house, but we have a jacuzzi tub we use occasionally and the current unit barely satisfies this.

Should I go with the same thing (tank) or tankless? I'm outside of my comfort zone, I'm a good wrench but prefer to sub out stuff like this. I know there's a lot of guys here that know a lot more about this than I do, and I'll listen to anyone's advice.

Thanks!

 

[Bert_]

The union is leaking not the water heater.

Not real familiar with the electronic controlls on a power vent water heater. The fan should needs to run before it will do anything.

 

[Jim greengo]

Get rid of that dielectric union and galvanized *******.

 

[BD1]

I know many that had water heaters with that White Rodger's controls. Always had issues.
I vote for basic standard water heater.


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[Miss the Pontiacs]

Rheem had a stainless steel tank maybe others do as well. Thought that might be a good idea.
The on demand or tankless might not keep up to your household demands. Also have heard their life expectancy is not as good and expensive as well. Buddy of mine has the tankless at the lake but more for the compact size (wall hanger)is his reason for going that route.

 

[yeldogt]

If the only leak is at that union === agreed .... you don't need a new one.

Ditch the whole assembly and use a shark bite set up that you can buy for a water heater .... I hate those unions. Hate ... hate ... hate...

If the tank unit is just enough -- it's enough. what temp do you have it set on and do you have any kids. We keep ours a bit higher ... no kids. This also give a bit more capacity

 

[danski0224]

The leaking dielectric has saturated the insulation under the outer jacket of the water heater, and it has been leaking a long time. Probably since 2009...

The ****** under the union is part of the tank as it is shipped, so good luck getting it out.

The outside of the tank that holds the water isn't finished at all, so it will rust quickly.

The whole tank is junk.

You must research the specs on tankless water heaters, and know the GPM of the fixtures.

I'd recommend an AO Smith Vertex before a tankless.

 

[Jackfre]

I'd recommend a Rinnai Sensei before a Vertex.

 

[Jim greengo]

The leaking dielectric has saturated the insulation under the outer jacket of the water heater, and it has been leaking a long time. Probably since 2009...

The ****** under the union is part of the tank as it is shipped, so good luck getting it out.

The outside of the tank that holds the water isn't finished at all, so it will rust quickly.

The whole tank is junk.

You must research the specs on tankless water heaters, and know the GPM of the fixtures.

I'd recommend an AO Smith Vertex before a tankless.

The galvanized ******* are screwed into the tank,I remove them all the time when I install water heaters.
Might be a little tough on an older.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Your water heater isn't broke; the dielectric union leaks.
Change it and the tank ****** out. Sharkbite flex hoses are what I use when I replace the water heaters on my rentals. Have not had a Sharkbite failure in 20 plus years.

Saturated fiberglass insulation will eventually dry itself.

 

[dave*99]

IMHO, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Your water heater isn't broke; the dielectric union leaks.
Change it and the tank ****** out. Sharkbite flex hoses are what I use when I replace the water heaters on my rentals. Have not had a Sharkbite failure in 20 plus years.

Saturated fiberglass insulation will eventually dry itself.

Um, the OP said it's not making hot water. So maybe it is broke and he should fix it.

 

[Bruce Amacker]

OP here, we decided to go with a Bradford White as that's what the plumber suggested. I see we have a pulsation dampener now, I guess to prevent water hammer. We had no hot water and I was tired of showering at the shop. At 12 years old it was probably not cost effective to repair the old one, the "trouble code" said it was the igniter. DTC? In a water heater? WTF!

Thanks for your suggestions.