Replacing all the front control arms, shocks, springs, sways, etc on my 2008 335i. Everything went smoothly enough on the driver's side, but the passenger side is a HUGE PITA. The nuts on both lower control arms just spin and spin, turning the bolt with them. There is some corrosion, but I hit it with PB Blaster, SeaFoam Deep Penetrator, WD40, and a torch, and they still turn the bolt when turning. I've tried by hand, by electric impact, and using my air compressor, same result. I've also tried using a torch to heat up the nuts, no help. I've tried using a prybar to create tension on the bolt, no help. I've tried a jack under the spindle to create tension on the bolt, no help. I've even burned up 2 dremel cutting discs trying to cut it off. Any ideas? I'm at my wits end.
Need your sage counsel: control arm nuts seized
- Thread starter wren57
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LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
That's a job for a real cutoff wheel, not a Dremel. You could try a nut splitter, but I've never found one that works well.
Tommy
Tommy
Viper98912
Well-known member
I guess you don't have bolt head access or it's imbedded in the control arm itself?
I've had success before with an impact (which it looks like you said you used), since the jolt of the hammer action can cause it to come loose. Has to be on impact mode though.
If not, buy yourself a hand grinder with a 4" cutoff disc.
I've had success before with an impact (which it looks like you said you used), since the jolt of the hammer action can cause it to come loose. Has to be on impact mode though.
If not, buy yourself a hand grinder with a 4" cutoff disc.
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
Get a 4inch grinder/cutoff disc.
If all you have is the dremel don't try cutting thru the bolt. Those are most likely a grade 10.9 and harder then a honeymoon ****. Notch one side of the nut and then use a chisel to split it open. But if your up for spending a couple dollars I'd opt for the 4.5 grinder and cut off wheel, then it'll become a five minute job and that includes cleaning up and putting the tool away.
jloehlein
Well-known member
I assume you're talking about the nut on the lower ball joint? And the ball joint is just spinning? If you can put pressure against the ball joint, sometimes it gets harder to spin, then you can get it off with an impact. I typically use a pair of channel locks and squeeze the ball joint against the knuckle or control arm.
If you don't have a 4 1/2" grinder, now is the time to buy one. It'll be money well spent with some cut off wheel.
Just make sure to wear some eye protection.
Farmall450
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This ^^^
WhiffySpark
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Need pictures
iamhomeless
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Don't grind on suspension parts. If you've allready cut into the bolt partially, then this is a job for a nut splitter
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
You mentioned torch. If its a oxyacetylene setup just cut it off with that. Back in the old days before 4-1/2 " grinders were so common place it is what you did.
jonesg
Well-known member
Balljoint threaded studs usually have an allen insert recess so you can use an allen wrench counterhold.
If not, just grind 2 flats on either side of the threads and hold the stud with vicegrips, open ended wrench on the nut.
If not, just grind 2 flats on either side of the threads and hold the stud with vicegrips, open ended wrench on the nut.
matt_i
Well-known member
If its a bolt with a tapered body and the taper starts to spin before you fully remove the nut then its a bad day.
I also wouldn't think twice about cutting down the long axis of the bolt rather than trying to take a slice of hex off. Its more controllable and you have more chance to not gouge the part below it. The nut will split into two equal-ish 3-sided halves then.
The eye protection is most important, face shield even better!
I also wouldn't think twice about cutting down the long axis of the bolt rather than trying to take a slice of hex off. Its more controllable and you have more chance to not gouge the part below it. The nut will split into two equal-ish 3-sided halves then.
The eye protection is most important, face shield even better!
Viper98912
Well-known member
Honeymoon...that's a new one...
I think on my vw when the nuts was freely spinning and seized.... I have to reach inside that control arm or subframe area, what ever that nut was supposedly weld to with a long reach wrench to hold it. (there is just a small sweet spot to do it.... can't look, only feel, if you have a lobster hand then you are SOL....) It was a PITA issue with VW MKIV control arms as well for many..
B.S.A. (ret.)
Well-known member
You don't want to be under there with a non-reinforced wheel when it lets go...
stonesfan68
Well-known member
I had something similar happen on my 530i. I bought an air-powered cutoff tool from Home Depot and it worked great. I only use the tool about twice per year so I'm glad that I didn't spend a lot of money on it. I'm not sure that a grinder would fit in the space available to cut off the nut.
APEowner
Well-known member
The ball joint stud on that should have a hole in the end that will except a torx bit.
Bill Bowman
Well-known member
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It did/does, but it got rounded too quickly from the amount of torque that was required.
Ended up getting a Milwaukee M18 grinder and cut the damn thing(s) off. All good now! Thanks for the advice everyone!
Cool, I bet your glad you gave in that easy and didn't **** with it for hours eh 
I'd also like to suggest a couple of things next time you need to do something like this. First off get yourself a set of Astro self hold Allen wrench sockets, the kind that have that little rotating dohicky on the tip. Those have really saved my *** on many occasions for this type of work. I'll look up a link for ya. Second, when possible spray only the threaded stud part with a penetrating fluid, don't get any on the taper portion. Give it a little while to soak in then hit it with a impact. Normally the stud will stay stuck and the nut come right off. Once the nut is down to half its thread where you can basically loosen it with your fingers, then spray the stud.
These are the best money you'll ever spend when it comes to dealing with a stripped Allen head But not at that price. I think I only paid like $25-30 on sale. After they proved their net worth to me, I bought a couple extra sets to shove in the back of the box.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pn...MIiuzokeG01QIVSyrTCh1FvQgsEAkYAiABEgJhTfD_BwE
I'd also like to suggest a couple of things next time you need to do something like this. First off get yourself a set of Astro self hold Allen wrench sockets, the kind that have that little rotating dohicky on the tip. Those have really saved my *** on many occasions for this type of work. I'll look up a link for ya. Second, when possible spray only the threaded stud part with a penetrating fluid, don't get any on the taper portion. Give it a little while to soak in then hit it with a impact. Normally the stud will stay stuck and the nut come right off. Once the nut is down to half its thread where you can basically loosen it with your fingers, then spray the stud.
These are the best money you'll ever spend when it comes to dealing with a stripped Allen head But not at that price. I think I only paid like $25-30 on sale. After they proved their net worth to me, I bought a couple extra sets to shove in the back of the box.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pn...MIiuzokeG01QIVSyrTCh1FvQgsEAkYAiABEgJhTfD_BwE
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WhiffySpark
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Cool, I bet your glad you gave in that easy and didn't **** with it for hours eh
I'd also like to suggest a couple of things next time you need to do something like those. First off get yourself a set of Astro self hold Allen wrench sockets, the kind that have that little rotating dohicky on the tip. Those have really saved my *** on many occasions for this type of work. I'll look up a link for ya. Second, when possible spray only the threaded stud part with a penetrating fluid, don't get any on the taper portion. Give it a little while to soak in then hit it with a impact. Normally the stud will stay stuck and the nut come right off. Once the nut is down to half its thread where you can basically loosen it with your fingers, then spray the stud.
Skip the spray heat the nut. They come off easy that way
You can also use a 48" pry bar to push up or down on the joint to put tension on it if needed.
Ya heat works the best. but if you're just trying to take it apart and not replacing that particular balljoint the damn boot usually gives a big one fingered salute to an open flame.
One of these days I'm gonna get me a induction heater.
WhiffySpark
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Small blue flame on a cutting torch and you'll Be fine. Just heat the nut not the stud. Once it is starting to get orange zip it off.
I always meant to buy an induction heater. And then I got out of doing it professionally lol. I had my eye on the new venom that was cheaper.
I always meant to buy an induction heater. And then I got out of doing it professionally lol. I had my eye on the new venom that was cheaper.