Needle scalers - your thoughts...

[TheGrooveking]

For some reason I am always hesitant to pull the trigger to pull the trigger on a needle scaler, mostly for the fear of buying POS. So with that I have two questions, was using a needle scaler for the first time an epiphany? Kind of like the first time you used an impact wrench and thought "wow where have you been my whole life?" or was it a WTF moment? Two recommend me a good needle scaler, because if I dive in I want to make sure I get a good exams of what this tool is suppose to be. Any input would welcomed.

TheGrooveking

 

[johnny5c]

I have a inline IR model and mainly use it for tight areas on floor pans and rocker panels and even though it's not the fastest process it really does a good job. Also it'll chew through softer materials so works well for removing seam sealer and windshield epoxy. Epiphany might be pushing it a little but it's definitely a tool worth owning.

 

[Provincial]

I have two of these. Both are Harbor Freight, a large one and a small one. I really like them.

I use the smaller one all the time to clean up stick weld beads. They remove the slag much better than any other method I have tried. The small one is adequate for my needs, as I use up to 5/32" rod. It is useful for cleaning up rusty metal as well, but leaves a peened texture that needs to be smoothed if you want it to look good.

The larger one got a workout when I cleaned up a cast cauldron from a rendering kettle that had 100 years of rusty buildup inside. The layer must have been 3/8" thick! I don't know any other way to clean this out economically.

The HF scalers are so cheap you should buy the small one just to get the feel of using one. If you really like it, you can get a "real" one from a name brand. If you keep the HF scaler lubricated, it should last a long time. Mine have.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

Don't forget good ear protection. I spent my early years working on navy vessels where deck grinders and needle guns prevailed. I can still hear the ringing in my ears after +20 years.

 

[ken w.]

I have the HF model. I think it's best for removing welding slag. It was an impulse buy for me.

 

[Steroblan]

Some spot on comments here. IR sells quality industrial needle scalers that will outlast the occasional user. I have two IR and a cheap one someone gave me. Try a HF unit out to see if you like the results before spending the big $. I have used the needle scalers for heavy rust and paint and the chisel for popping sheetmetal welds. They have a high cfm appetite but are real work savers sometimes. I used one for a few years as a welders helper when I was younger to clean up welds for the next pass.

 

[Mud]

IR 125 standard duty are excellent bits of gear. They take punishment and have been copied by a few makers including Scorpion over the years.

 

[cryan]

Ah, needle scalers, The Seaman's Friend!
Every seaman will have experience of these. I like Chicago Pneumatic and Ingersol Rand.
My biggest tips would be: 1) Buy an inline version not a pistol shape version as these are far more comfortable to use if doing a lot of scaling. 2) Buy one where changing the needle pack is easy and one which spare needles are easy to purchase.

On my last ship we embarked on a major needle scaling of the deck and fittings. We had three scalers going for eight hours a day. We were having to change needle packs every three or four days. You can re sharpen them but they will lose the hardening on the ends.

You will definitely need ear protection, goggles(not glasses) and a hood/cape of some sort to keep the dust out. If doing a lot perhaps get some anti vibe gloves.

 

[Responder]

I bought an "inexpensive" one at Princess Auto (I believe this store is similar to your HF) to work on my Jeep frame. Didn't know if it was worth all of the hype..........let me tell you it is worth it! Even with my $29 scaler I was able to remove all of the flakes quickly. Work great for getting into tight areas too.

As mentioned earlier, wear hearing protection as it is VERY noisy. And, as always eye protection.

 

[firebox40dash5]

Don't forget good ear protection. I spent my early years working on navy vessels where deck grinders and needle guns prevailed. I can still hear the ringing in my ears after +20 years.

Dear god yes.

IR 125 standard duty are excellent bits of gear. They take punishment and have been copied by a few makers including Scorpion over the years.

We have one of these at work. My boss has a Super Duty with a scaly, rusty frame he's trying to take care of. I told him about 50 times to buy a needle scaler, but he swore he was going to use grinders and such to do it. After about 4 hours, he bought an IR 125. Much, much better for that use.

 

[rsanter]

I have a cheap HF version and then I have one that just goes on a an air hammer. Both work good for what I want. Generally heavy rust in corners and recesses

Bob

 

[Bull]

Would it be silly to use one on the large, flat areas of a floorpan or on the rusty, flaky inner bumper support of a vehicle? In other words, is it the ideal tool for these jobs or would a grinder w/cup brush or stripping disc be ideal?

 

[rlitman]

Absolutely the wrong tool for a floor pan or bumper. You can expect it to quickly ruin that thin metal.

 

[Bull]

Absolutely the wrong tool for a floor pan or bumper. You can expect it to quickly ruin that thin metal.

You just saved me some dough.

So it's just for real thick steel, eh?

 

[ADSR]

Which style do you guys buy? Pistol grip or regular?

 

[Ign]

I have a cheap HF version and then I have one that just goes on a an air hammer. Both work good for what I want. Generally heavy rust in corners and recesses

Bob

This. I've got the cheap one that goes on an air hammer, ON a cheap air hammer. For as little as I use it, it's great. Also x2 on the crevices and recesses, and it'll take years of grime/dirt/grease out of the same areas. Not spotless mind you, but takes it a point where it's then reasonable to use a solvent or whatever you like.

 

[rlitman]

You just saved me some dough.

So it's just for real thick steel, eh?

On thicker material it leaves a surface full of crescent shaped pock marks from the needle impact. On thinner metal, it is like hammering on it with a thin punch. You are going to get some distortion. I guess if the surface will never show (like a floor pan or rocker panel that gets covered), it could be used, but I'm not sure what for. If you're chasing rust, the plasma cutter would be more use.
I'd be worried about using it on the back of a bumper, if the dents show up on the face.

 

[arms1970]

Im a valve mechanic. I use them whipped off of a regulator when i get close to gasket areas. They're great, but i deal with alot of pig iron and alot of rust. But it flakes it off before it hits the sandblaster.

 

[Packard V8]

I just picked up a couple of used IRs and have been wanting to try them. Where do you buy your replacement needle packs?

jack vines

 

[toolfreak]

I haven't used mine in a while but when I was working as a mechanic on heavy equipment in the field, I used it regularly. It's great for cleaning out packed dirt and works great when stick welding, I don't even own a chipping hammer anymore.

 

[wafrederick]

Good for cleaning up rusty nuts and bolts before trying to get a socket on them.I clean the backside of the hat on rotors before turning them too.

 

[DekeT]

Would a scaler work to clean out the gunk and rust inside a 2 inch receiver hitch on my old truck?

 

[cheechi]

I have the hf 'mini' which isn't very mini but smaller i guess than others. I have the Northern gun/air hammer type, and what I find is the HF is more comfortable but the northern seems to do a better job with the same/slightly less air. I've really only used it on outdoor/garden stuff no industrial type work.