Network advise needed

[CrashmanS]

I have 3 buildings I need to get wifi into. I have a backhoe and can run conduit underground between buildings for a hardwired connection. As a matter of fact I already have a dedicated conduit between buildings 2 and 4. But would like to have all wifi access points on the same internet connection and network. I am not a computer guy so this may seem stupid or stupidly simple. In the picture below I have internet and wifi in the house (#1). I need it in buildings #2 and #4. I am probably close enough to building 2 to get what I need in building 3. What do you think?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[garagelogician]

This is a pretty straightforward project. You could make it complicated and expensive, or you can do it fairly cheap. I would definitely run conduit between buildings, then plug in wireless access points (WAP) at each. Ideally, you will likely need a switch to connect each building WAP to the router that is providing your internet access.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Hard to tell length/distance with that map

You are limited to 330' with CAT5/6

 

[CrashmanS]

Hard to tell length/distance with that map

You are limited to 330' with CAT5/6

It is less than 330 between the buildings on the longest run. But is the distance 330 from the first or total?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[CrashmanS]

This is a pretty straightforward project. You could make it complicated and expensive, or you can do it fairly cheap. I would definitely run conduit between buildings, then plug in wireless access points (WAP) at each. Ideally, you will likely need a switch to connect each building WAP to the router that is providing your internet access.

So I would think the switch would need to be in building 2?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[garagelogician]

As long as each run from the switch is less than 330ft, you're good. The switch would typically be right next to the router.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[jbwilkins]

Most WAP's have switches/routers built in...So you could 'theoretically' run a line to building 2 into the WAP, run a line out of the WAP to building 4....Make sure the router portion is turned off on the WAP in building 2.....

I believe it's 330' between switches......

 

[75gmck25]

As stated, its a relatively simple requirement; however, you should also consider what you plan to use the WiFi for in each building. For example, if you want to use building 4 for an application that requires high bandwidth (your business file server?), that may require some additional optimization.
WiFi is convenient, but standard WAPs never match the performance of a wired connection.

In my case I have single building with a Roku box on my TV, and I initially used WifFi to connect to my cable modem/WiFi/switch. However, for streaming I found that it worked much better to connect the Roku to a hard-wired port on the cable modem/WiFi/switch. And when I decided to use an old desktop computer for backup of my laptops (mostly picture files) I found that it worked much better to hardwire the desktop to the WAP/switch, even if I left the laptops on WiFi.

Since your existing connection is in 1, first determine what network gear you already have. Some cable boxes only have one router port, some have 2-4 router ports, and some have multiple ports and/or operate as switches. Routers work fine, bu t network switches usually have better throughput than routers, since the protocols are simpler and the device can move packets faster.

Assuming you do not need any additional hard-wired connections in the house (like cat 5 to a TV), and your cable modem is also a WiFi router, you could just use a 4 port integrated cable modem/WAP/router to serve building 1. Then run Cat 5/6 to building 2 and put a 4 port WiFi/switch there. Run Cat 5/6 lines off the switch from 2-3 and 2-4 and put a WAP/switch in each location. Note: Since building 3 is so close, you might not need a separate WAP there if it gets good service from building 2.
This design give you high speed switched connections between all buildings, and since each building WAP also has a switch with ports, it gives you the option of hard-wired connections in each building. If you also need higher speed wired in building 1, I would add a WAP/switch there and use it instead of the cable company equipment.

Bruce

 

[Ed Devinney]

Running cable will be simplest. Unless you're running lots of wire, conduit is overkill. I'd use a direct bury cat 5 or cat 6 from 1 to 2 and from 1 to 4.

Buy a decent punch-down tool and terminate the ends of the direct bury cable using boxes and keystone jacks near your wired equipment. Buy some patch cables to run between these outlets and your equipment.

On switches:if you run from 1 to 2 and 1 to 4, you may only need a switch at 1. As noted, in your house you may have a few extra Ethernet connections on your cable modem. If so, patch the new cables into the cable modem and voilà - live network outlets in 3 and 4. If not, buy a 4-5 port switch and connect the cable modem, the new outlets, and any other wired gear. In the outbuildings you could just plug in a WiFi access point and be done. If you have more than 1 wired thing in the outbuilding, you might need to use another switch to get more ports.

Btw, switches are pretty much just smart splitters. They're not expensive, but buy a gigabit unit. Trendnet makes a decent 5 port for $18.

 

[ard]

Unless you're running lots of wire, conduit is overkill. .

In my opinion, failing to place conduit, one or two runs, in an open trench is electrical malpractice....

 

[PelicanPines]

I have multiple access points. I named them all different... I added each one to all my devices and my device picks the best one.

Just a thought... if you need multiple wifi names... it's not a big deal...

Mine are:

NSAInformationHub
TrailerParkFreeWiFi
ThatNeighbor
ThatOtherNeighbor

 

[CrashmanS]

In my opinion, failing to place conduit, one or two runs, in an open trench is electrical malpractice....

[emoji106]

I learned this a long time ago. I also never direct bury anything. Other than conduit or drain pipe.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[CrashmanS]

I have wireless internet from a transmitting tower. I live in a rural area with bad phone lines and no cable service. I have a 25 Meg connection. It comes into the house and has a small box that connects to the power and has a cat 5 cable coming out of it. I can directly hook this wire to my laptop and get internet service. But I have another router to provide wifi service to building 1.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

 

[Ed Devinney]

If your WiFi access point plugs into the hAP box, then you should be able to plug your new conduit-run cat 6 into the spare ports and be good to go.

I'll echo Bruce's question: what do you want to do with this network? The answer affects the solution. For general internet use, everything discussed above is fine. If, say, you want to run cameras, not so much.

 

[Ditch]

* adviCe

 

[Jmatlock88]

I've been down this road myself recently. I upgraded my internet service to 1000Mbit/s aka "Google fiber" and found my long Cat5e runs were limiting my speeds to about 350-400Mbit/s

Here is how I set up my network (and how I would set yours up).
For future proofing, I recommend homerunning a Cat7 cable from each building to a single point where your internet service is located.

Cable http://a.co/btAdIPV
Male Connectors http://a.co/0FDhn2p
Male Connector Boots http://a.co/hCRUyig
Female Connectors http://r.ebay.com/nN1p9E
Crimping tool http://a.co/4yb088A

I personally bought all of these products for my setup and my long runs are still able to achieve internet service speeds.

I installed 3 of these wireless access points including one outside on my eave to have internet in the yard. http://a.co/hBIHgcR
You set these up with the same wireless network name using an internet setup page and they perform seamless handoffs between each other automatically. They will also auto detect if your device can run 5GHz (fast, fair range) or 2.4Ghz (slower, best range). You need a "Power over Ethernet (PoE)" switch to provide power to each of these wireless access points since they do not plug in the wall.

This is the PoE switch I used because I home ran everything. http://a.co/7hKeX43

In your case, I would install one 5 port PoE switch in each buiding to provide some drops in the building and power the wireless access point. http://a.co/gcvo1ao
Your cat7 line would be the uplink to each switch in each building.

I ran cat6 once in the building. http://a.co/cqERh0O
Male Connectors http://a.co/2E53NdE
Male Connector Boots http://a.co/7nX53op
Female Connectors http://a.co/b71Q4Wk
Same tool as above.

Hope this helps.

 

[CrashmanS]

* adviCe

Spelling ADVICE from a user named Ditch? I want to ADVISE you to just keep on moving and post your grammar ADVICE in someone else's post. Is that better?

Thanks to everyone else. I have the info I need to move foward with my project.

 

[Brandon314159]

I've been down this road myself recently. I upgraded my internet service to 1000Mbit/s aka "Google fiber" and found my long Cat5e runs were limiting my speeds to about 350-400Mbit/s

Here is how I set up my network (and how I would set yours up).
For future proofing, I recommend homerunning a Cat7 cable from each building to a single point where your internet service is located.

Cable http://a.co/btAdIPV
Male Connectors http://a.co/0FDhn2p
Male Connector Boots http://a.co/hCRUyig
Female Connectors http://r.ebay.com/nN1p9E
Crimping tool http://a.co/4yb088A

I personally bought all of these products for my setup and my long runs are still able to achieve internet service speeds.

I installed 3 of these wireless access points including one outside on my eave to have internet in the yard. http://a.co/hBIHgcR
You set these up with the same wireless network name using an internet setup page and they perform seamless handoffs between each other automatically. They will also auto detect if your device can run 5GHz (fast, fair range) or 2.4Ghz (slower, best range). You need a "Power over Ethernet (PoE)" switch to provide power to each of these wireless access points since they do not plug in the wall.

This is the PoE switch I used because I home ran everything. http://a.co/7hKeX43

In your case, I would install one 5 port PoE switch in each buiding to provide some drops in the building and power the wireless access point. http://a.co/gcvo1ao
Your cat7 line would be the uplink to each switch in each building.

I ran cat6 once in the building. http://a.co/cqERh0O
Male Connectors http://a.co/2E53NdE
Male Connector Boots http://a.co/7nX53op
Female Connectors http://a.co/b71Q4Wk
Same tool as above.

Hope this helps.

This is very sound advice on the Access Points.

I run these at my house and my network appears as one 'large' network to the phones/laptops/etc even though there are multiple access points. Seamless, high quality, and priced right. POE injection means you can put them where you want them vs needing to be near 120V power source.

 

[ard]

I've been down this road myself recently. I upgraded my internet service to 1000Mbit/s aka "Google fiber" and found my long Cat5e runs were limiting my speeds to about 350-400Mbit/s

.

You ****.



(I am joking, just jealous...)






I can see the capital of California from my house, 25 miles away- and there is NOT wired or fiber service that exceeds 50kbps at this property. Seriously.

 

[ducksface]

I have a 22 dollar extender that goes 310ft through two walls and maybe 100 trees. It starts at my new (. And I am very proud of it because it was 28K prior) 10meg and drops to 4 Meg over the 310ft. I can watch Netflix at 4 Meg. My router position isn't exactly optimized tucked in a niche behind the flat screen.
The OP never said what he needed WiFi for(or I missed it).
If I didn't miss it, you guys are recommending a knee mill to make pen blanks.

Try 22 bucks for an extender. If it doesn't work, dig your ditch.

 

[PhysicsDude]

I've installed these before, they have incredible range, although they are directional. They can broadcast wifi over 1 mile if you have line of sight, and I've used them to send wifi through buildings with 1+ ft thick concrete walls. You could put 2 in the house, 1 pointed at buildings 2 and 3, and one pointed at building 4. If you read the amazon reviews, there are lots of people who use these to broadcast wifi into outbuildings/cottages, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EGI3CI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ducksface]

I've installed these before, they have incredible range, although they are directional. They can broadcast wifi over 1 mile if you have line of sight, and I've used them to send wifi through buildings with 1+ ft thick concrete walls. You could put 2 in the house, 1 pointed at buildings 2 and 3, and one pointed at building 4. If you read the amazon reviews, there are lots of people who use these to broadcast wifi into outbuildings/cottages, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EGI3CI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thanks.
I just bought two of them. 45 bucks each.
There sure isn't any reason to run a cable anywhere.
I'll move the 22 dollar unit I have now out to the camera at the package drop/gate. That will give me a half mile spread.
If the ones you recommend work as good as the reviews say I'll add another down the road farther for the game cameras.