Ive just finished up the outside of my garage that is about 100 ft away from my house in the backyard. I would like to share internet between the two. Im about to bury the electrical line from the pole in my front yard to the garage. The ditch will be dug about 20 ft away from the house so I was thinking it would be a good time to bury some sort of network cable in conduit while a ditch is already there. The ditch will be 2 ft wide and 2 ft deep so would that give enough distance between the two cables to stop interference? I really need advice on what kind of wire to run to be future proof for a few years, how to run it, and what other equipment I will need. Thanks.
Network cable from house to detached garage
- Thread starter derekeh
- Start date
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I ran plenum type Cat5e cable in two runs in 3/4” pvc conduit. Really should use an underground rated cable, but I already had a 1,000 ft roll of this. If I have a failure, I will attach another to the end of the failed cable and pull it through. I used an identical dual band router to the one in the house because it keeps things simple and provides a backup in the house if needed. There are YouTube videos that show you how to set up the router to act as an access point. I have both wired connections and wireless throughout my shop.
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tez929rr
Well-known member
I bought a weatherproof 200 foot Cat VI cable from Amazon (about $70) for essentially the same task. 100 feet between buildings and about 40 feet at each building from the entry point to the router. So far perfect. I guess I’ll find out one day if I should have put it in conduit.
Dentaltec
Well-known member
Cable is cheap, if you run one line its smart to run a back up. If you buy the cable that can be direct buried you are fine, if you do not have the tools to make your own here is what I'd suggest.
https://www.amazon.com/Maximm-Outdoor-Ethernet-Cable-150ft/dp/B0745WYJ6N/ref=asc_df_B0745WYJ6N/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241965663546&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6636419762995237122&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031457&hvtargid=pla-558967218172&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Maximm-Outdoor-Ethernet-Cable-150ft/dp/B0745WYJ6N/ref=asc_df_B0745WYJ6N/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241965663546&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6636419762995237122&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031457&hvtargid=pla-558967218172&psc=1
klassenl
Well-known member
On the 120/240 volt wire I am all for direct burial wire. On the "low voltage" side I lean towards running conduit underground.
I don't buy in to the "futureproofing" that consumes so many people but with a conduit you can add whatever you need later on.
I don't buy in to the "futureproofing" that consumes so many people but with a conduit you can add whatever you need later on.
It's fine to run in the same trench. Just get direct burial Cat5e and it'll be fine. do two runs just to be safe in case you break one.
something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMW6R19/?tag=atomicindus08-20
to do the ends:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RAT7ZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Tool:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H79KNLI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Then you just use some patch cables on each end for whatever you're hooking up.
something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMW6R19/?tag=atomicindus08-20
to do the ends:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RAT7ZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Tool:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H79KNLI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Then you just use some patch cables on each end for whatever you're hooking up.
tez929rr
Well-known member
How come?
Tom Sestito
Well-known member
I did that by running regular internet cable in a conduit with no issues for the last three years.
One my second router, I used the same network name and password so that I have no issues with connectivity going between the house and the garage. Has worked like a charm.
One my second router, I used the same network name and password so that I have no issues with connectivity going between the house and the garage. Has worked like a charm.
garage guy1of38
Well-known member
Throw a fiber run in their while you're at it.
dlc
Well-known member
Why not use this and forget about all the cables? I've had mine in for over a year and it works great. It has it's own wifi and will stream a NVR with 4 cameras, Pandora, and my laptop easily.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW6HNYZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW6HNYZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
in the midwest it's pretty common for a "farm yard" to have the service be delivered to a pole in the yard. The meter lives there and all the outbuildings get their power from the yard pole. If that is the case then he could use powerline.
My argument is why bother if you got the trench open, spend the 100 bucks and toss a cable or two in it. much more reliable.
dlc
Well-known member
If it is coming from the same pole it is more than likely off the same transformer, therefore it should work.
MeentSS02
Well-known member
If you live in an area with a lot of people, and those people are using WiFi (and they usually do), the amount of throughput you have available might not be enough. There are different methods to increase that, but in general, spectrum keeps getting sold off for various purposes, and the parts that are left are getting more and more crowded.
If it were me, I'd bury a cable in conduit. If they end up making a higher speed cable in the future that you'd like to run, you just pull it through. Personally, I'd go hard wired if at all possible, and wireless only when absolutely necessary. If you are willing and able to dig a trench, it just makes sense. Do it once, do it right.
My garage will actually be coming from a different pole than the one that supplies the house. The one that my neighbor uses is on the property line and is about 50 ft closer than the other pole and also saves me from messing up the driveway and crossing a water line.
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Looking on amazon, the cat6 burial doesn’t look much more expensive than 5e burial. Any reason that I shouldn’t use it instead? Also, even though its burial wire, I’m still putting it in conduit for extra assurance and so I can possibly use the existing wire to pull another wire through in the future if needed.
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wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
This has nothing to do with the unlicensed bands that are in use for WiFi.
2.4Ghz frequencies and 5.8Ghz in use by wifi standards have never been sold off and they cant be because the FCC does not issue licenses for those bands...
Having said that, yes the 2.4Ghz band was crowded years ago. Hence the reason for 5.8Ghz wifi, which, thanks to more channel widths and spectrum, MiMo, etc, is not overcrowded or even crowded right now and has far higher bandwidth capabilities...
So in conclusion, if 2.4Ghz is crowded in your area, switch to 5.8Ghz.
tell me how a crowded wifi spectrum will reduce throughput on a powerline adapter?
for buildings with their own electrical service (i.e. NOT run off the house panel) I always recommend a non-conductive path between the buildings. otherwise you're creating an electrical connection between them - if you look at most facilities master specs, they mandate TVSS and grounding for any low voltage copper that exits/enters the building.
my suggestion would be singlemode fiber in conduit. then it's future-proofed for bandwidth effectively forever, and if for some reason you need to replace it, well it's in conduit, and easy to swap out.
my suggestion would be singlemode fiber in conduit. then it's future-proofed for bandwidth effectively forever, and if for some reason you need to replace it, well it's in conduit, and easy to swap out.
there are literally thousands upon thousands of copper low voltage connections between buildings out there. This isn't a hospital or military communications center. its a shop in a guys backyard. a drop or two of cost effective cat6 will be plenty of bandwidth for years and years.
mvusse
Well-known member
When I dig my trench for the main power feed, I'll lay a second conduit that for the time being will be empty. If I ever need it, it'll be there. If I never use it, conduit is cheap so no big loss.
Internet I'm hoping to run through a wireless repeater. 2.4G is pretty crowded in my neighborhood, but 5.8G seems to be far and few between for the time being. With 100MB/s coming into my house I' guess I'll see how fast I can get anything in the garage.
Without a repeater both my phone and laptop are fine on the side of the garage closest to the house, but the other end, 50' further away seems to be a different story. the fact that the router lives behind the TV in the living room doesn't help, as the living room is on the opposite side of the house the garage is on.
For me, a powerline adapter may or may not work. I have two services coming into my house from when it had been made into a duplex back in 1970. It has since then been "unmade", but I still have two functional meters on the side of my house. One of them will be going through a main shutoff in my basement, then straight to the garage, running the entire house of the other one. Two services, two meters, two main feeds, but coming off the same transformer.
So plan A is a repeater, plan B is to use the conduit for a Cat6 connection between the routers.
As for the OP, I would bury an extra run of conduit. But not spend $$$ on wire until a repeater has been tried.
Both Walmart (15 days) and Staples (14 days) have a satisfaction guarantee. 2 weeks should be plenty to find out if a repeater will work for you or not.
edit to add Best Buy does as well, 15 days.
Internet I'm hoping to run through a wireless repeater. 2.4G is pretty crowded in my neighborhood, but 5.8G seems to be far and few between for the time being. With 100MB/s coming into my house I' guess I'll see how fast I can get anything in the garage.
Without a repeater both my phone and laptop are fine on the side of the garage closest to the house, but the other end, 50' further away seems to be a different story. the fact that the router lives behind the TV in the living room doesn't help, as the living room is on the opposite side of the house the garage is on.
For me, a powerline adapter may or may not work. I have two services coming into my house from when it had been made into a duplex back in 1970. It has since then been "unmade", but I still have two functional meters on the side of my house. One of them will be going through a main shutoff in my basement, then straight to the garage, running the entire house of the other one. Two services, two meters, two main feeds, but coming off the same transformer.
So plan A is a repeater, plan B is to use the conduit for a Cat6 connection between the routers.
As for the OP, I would bury an extra run of conduit. But not spend $$$ on wire until a repeater has been tried.
Both Walmart (15 days) and Staples (14 days) have a satisfaction guarantee. 2 weeks should be plenty to find out if a repeater will work for you or not.
edit to add Best Buy does as well, 15 days.
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I would recommend you do a radio thats' a "client" and re-transmit the SSID from another AP/router in the garage. actual analog repeaters typically **** bigtime, not to mention pollute the airwaves (and usually aren't FCC approved, due to the aforementioned suckage).
this isn't a "military/hospital" thing, it's amazingly common.
for example, virtually any business will have one of these at the demarcation point. it's standard practice.
these are not expensive and can save big $ in avoided damage. a pair of surge protectors with ethernet jacks costs <$50. my computer cost me thousands.
this isn't a "military/hospital" thing, it's amazingly common.
for example, virtually any business will have one of these at the demarcation point. it's standard practice.
these are not expensive and can save big $ in avoided damage. a pair of surge protectors with ethernet jacks costs <$50. my computer cost me thousands.
MeentSS02
Well-known member
Good point.
Already did, but as another user has already pointed out, the range starts to suffer as you go up in frequency. You just don't have to worry about that with a hard-wired connection.
Ah...didn't read the fine print on what exactly that product did. Interesting concept, but does it actually work? If all you are doing is extending the range of already crappy service, that doesn't sound like much of a solution.
1 - Power line adapters have been the "rage" (self-promoted) in the 80s. Complete fail!
2 - DON'T bury conduit without mule tape or similar in it even if you've no immediate intention to use it. When trying to snake bare cable thru buried conduit (later) you _will_ regret the lapse. I guarantee it!
2 - DON'T bury conduit without mule tape or similar in it even if you've no immediate intention to use it. When trying to snake bare cable thru buried conduit (later) you _will_ regret the lapse. I guarantee it!
it works perfectly fine. and most places with shops 100' in the backyard arn't exactly crowded wifi spaces
a repeater basically just runs the same SSID as the house so you can seamlessly transition from the house to the shop as you walk out to it. a non issue unless you're constantly on a VOIP call
Look into Hawkin Tech. I bought their repeater and outdoor directional antenna for under $200. It works great they pre programmed it before they sent it to me to match the router User and Password of the house router. My shop is about 150 to 200’ from my house and is a metal building. I did not have cell service or internet once I stepped inside and closed the door until I installed the above.
MeentSS02
Well-known member
Good to know, and also a good point.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Yeah repeater or range extender.
But be careful.
Some repeaters/extenders cut the bandwidth in half.
Not all phones are wifi call capable.
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Negen
Well-known member
As mentioned above not all phones accept wifi calling to expand on that in USA with t mobile for example if you do not have one of "their" phones you cannot enable wifi calling. This is something that has yet to be hacked. I buy phones direct from manufacturers to save money and not get the bloat/spyware that telcos install. Thus even having tier 1 phones wifi calling is not available to me.
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If one is looking to get a repeater for wifi signals don't waste your money. Just buy a router with wrt on it asus,Buffalo etc.. and it will have a repeater mode and work just the same. Use the saved money to buy an outdoor box for it.
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Use shielded cable. I hard wired all my cameras and they are all in a couple 3/4 conduit side by side.
If you are going to dig a trench...put 4 or 5 varying size conduit in there. PVC is cheap...
I have a lot of trench runs all over my property...almost every extra conduit I buried over the years has been used for something later. Power for a front gate, add camera to area where I store trailers, intercom to garage...they always end up being used...
If you are going to dig a trench...put 4 or 5 varying size conduit in there. PVC is cheap...
I have a lot of trench runs all over my property...almost every extra conduit I buried over the years has been used for something later. Power for a front gate, add camera to area where I store trailers, intercom to garage...they always end up being used...
67carl
Well-known member
I've heard Powerline Ethernet Bridge Adapters can cause Arc Fault breakers to trip... It's been awhile since I read that so maybe it's not an issue anymore.
Instead of wired or extenders or power line system. This has come up a dozen times in the last year........
Mesh router and two satellites..........covers the 3000 sqft home ( basement and upper level) 1000sqft shop 100’ from the home. 117 Mbps over the whole system with no bandwidth or back haul issues. Added benefit 3 acres have decent WiFi coverage.
Whole system was $330
Mesh router and two satellites..........covers the 3000 sqft home ( basement and upper level) 1000sqft shop 100’ from the home. 117 Mbps over the whole system with no bandwidth or back haul issues. Added benefit 3 acres have decent WiFi coverage.
Whole system was $330
HE HAS THE TRENCH OPEN. why would he got with a half *** solution when the hard part is done to hard wire it?
for 330 bucks you could hard wire 3 of these in: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and cover many acres.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Only 117Mbps?
My internet is 180mbps+ so your system wouldnt cut it for me or someone with higher bandwidth.
After a little more research, I think I will go wired. I can always go wireless in the future, but for now, this seems like the better option. So I'll probably go with cat 6 burial cable. Anything else that I should look for in a wire?
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wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Hardwired is the best way to go.
You can add a wireless access point at the garage. Just plug it into the CAT6...