Hello..I am adding a proper interlock to my main meter panel for a generator. I do have a quick question though. It's a meter panel combo, that feeds an inside subpanel for the inside of the house. There are 8 slots in the meter panel for breakers. Currently 6 are used for 2 AC units, and a pool subpanel. I have one open spot that I used for the interlock breaker. Yes I used the top right, so the interlock is proper. My question though, is I see in the meter panel, the grounds and neutrals are on 1 bar. According to the Internet, that's how it should be in the 1st point from the street. I am just verifying this is actually true. I have 2 hits to the breaker to the outlet, and the neutral and ground wire are on the same bar, then going to each ground and neutral spot on the outlet. The outlet box is also grounded to the ground wire. I am 99.9 percent sure this is right, but would like a little assurance. Appreciate any advice. I will politely ask not lecturing me in using a transfer panel. In my state of GA this is legal. I also marked everything accordingly. Thanks for any input.
Neutral and ground on same bar in main meter panel??
- Thread starter suzook
- Start date
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
That is correct. neutral is bonded in first means of disconnect. in your case that is the meter main
As long as the top right generator cb position interlocks with the main cb, you should experience little to no shunning from within the forum.
Any sub-panel or load fed from this meter/main panel would require a 4-wire feed if the load required a neutral.
It's a proper interlock, with the lockdown on the breaker, and lock so the main has to be off to turn on the back feed breaker. I am using a 4 wire feed from my 4 prong plug from the generator. Which brings up another question. I had read that all interlock feeding generators should have a floating neutral. I modified my generator removing the neutral connected to the ground. Should I leave it? Or should I connect it again, so I could use the generator on its own?? Seems unnecessary to make it a floating neutral, if it's feeding a panel with it's neutrals and grounds connected, no?
This has been discussed several times on this forum. If you only ever use the gen for your mentioned purpose, then it is correct to be floating at the gen. The bond happens at the all in one neutral/ground bar typical within a meter main.
If you plan to use it for incidental power needs as a standalone piece of equipment, then you want it bonded. I would install a switch at the generator interface panel to open the bonding jumper and you have to remember when to switch it off/on.
Others like to use a plug with a jumper in it connected between neutral and ground in order to provide the bond. I'm not in favor of this as the plug can be lost/forgotten. It could be put on a tether. Electrically, it is just as good as the switch. I just like the switch better.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
genny needs to have a floating neutral when connected to a building. you dont want the neutral bond in more than one location. also if you left the neutral bond in place on the genny, there would be neutral current flowing on the ground wire which you dont want.
when you use the genny as a standalone portable power source not connected to a building, the neutral needs to be bonded so breakers can trip upon ground fault.
best way to accomplish this is by removing the bond wire and making a bonding plug where neutral and ground are jumpered inside the plug. you would then plug this into 1 of the 120v receptacles when needed but make sure the receptacle is not protected with a GFCI otherwise it will trip
Thanks everyone. 99% of the time I will use this genny for the back feed. I will make a plug, and trap it to the frame, with a note on the genny stating it's not a bonded neutral. It will keep everyone (including my old *** self) in the loop.
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Innovate1
Well-known member
The ground neutral connection issue is something that comes up with F150 hybrids that have an on board inverter. The truck is bonded and expects loads to not be bonded - the inverter will shut off it it detects external bond due to integrated GFCI. What many do is make a cord to the house power inlet with no ground connection, only 2 hots and neutral. I haven't seen anything on unbonding the truck so I don't think that's a practical thing to do. I think the trucks were designed with job site work in mind rather than powering up a house during a power outage.
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For the electric f150, Ford supports truck to load via their charger, which is presumably taking care of the bonding issue.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
and that is a horrible idea because if there is a ground or line fault the breaker in the truck will not trip.
All done. Tested it out, and my little 5K watt generator runs my pool pump, blower motor for Gas fired furnace, 2 fridges, and a some outlets and internet. Great little setup. If I find i need more juice, I will upsize the genny. I do have a slight flicker in my led lights, but i guess that's to be expected. Thanks everyone for the advice.
larry4406
Well-known member
I installed a switch on my generator so I could bond the neutral or float it based on portable or standby use respectively. Mine is a Generac 7500EXL. I clocked the "On" label of the switch to bonded and "Off" to floating.
My generator the wiring schematic showed where the factory bond was located. It was a simple purple jumper wire between neutral and ground on the duplex receptacle. I removed the purple jumper and replaced with 12g Thhn wire and the switch.
My generator the wiring schematic showed where the factory bond was located. It was a simple purple jumper wire between neutral and ground on the duplex receptacle. I removed the purple jumper and replaced with 12g Thhn wire and the switch.
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wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
I installed a switch on my generator so I could bond the neutral or float it based on portable or standby use respectively. Mine is a Generac 7500EXL. I clocked the "On" label of the switch to bonded and "Off" to floating.
My generator the wiring schematic showed where the factory bond was located. It was a simple purple jumper wire between neutral and ground on the duplex receptacle. I removed the purple jumper and replaced with with 12g Thhn wire and the switch.
nice clean work
rooster59
Well-known member
I don’t know if running a pool pump off a generator is the safest idea. I’d like to hear an explainer on that.
Joemctag
Well-known member
FAQs this forum. It’s got color diagrams. Taken from code book, I think.