Having that large of a covered area with a concrete floor is going to be so nice.
Never BIG enough: Shop addition
- Thread starter Hounddog
- Start date
Woodman11
Member
Awesome looking shop!! I love the addition!!
Thanks NUTTSGT
I have not used those garage doors or personnel door for anything other than sweeping out the shop and letting air in....this is a whole new world for me. Felt strange being able to walk out that way for sure.
This addition solved many issues with the original design of the barn. While having the big patio space is nice...having the garage doors opened up and moving between the two in all that open space is very nice.
The new garage will house my 28 Ford and I've got some petrolina to roll in there it'll be the "mechanical zone"......my wife is the "space programmer" middle of the shop is the "woodworking zone" and back addition is the "metal shop" where I weld and cut and such. Patio I deem the "Party Zone"...
Thanks Woodman....going by your callsign you may be interested in the woodshop pics coming soon. Dang humidity has formed some surface rust on all my equipment....it'll take me a day or so to make worthy of pics.
I've got a nice dehumidifier that I need to run continuously in there but I'm missing the drain pan..gotta get one of those.
rodster_67
Well-known member
My 83 T-bird had one, so it was available in 96.Love the shop BTW.
Great car that 83 TBird.
Love the shop too, thanks for sharing.
Saturday was the wrap-up of the rough carpentry. Yesterday was spent with a friend thinking about the space and how it'll be used. I've got some items to display and some specific work that I'll be doing so the electrical plan was discussed. This weekend I'll be roughing in the electrical...hopeful to have the elect. rough-in inspection done next week.
Finish Space Plan:
Use: Mix, antique auto maint/display...some fab&welding...general haing out..
Lighting:
1. Bench lighting
2. switched outlets upper wall for neons
3. Wall lighting for some old signs
4. 8 x General 4ft double florecence
Wall coverings:
Corrugated metal floor to 4ft, Chair rail cap, then maybe drywall or ?? for the upper area (unsure on the upper 6ft of wall)
Ceiling: Galvalume (Barn Metal)
Insulation: Sprayed expanding foam...will do the ceiling for sure...unsure what I'll do for the walls yet.
Equipment: Garage door opener
Special projects: Sliding garage door (old timey looking with windows along the top) to devide the woodshop and the new space...trying to keep the new space cleaner than the rest of the shop.
Finish Space Plan:
Use: Mix, antique auto maint/display...some fab&welding...general haing out..
Lighting:
1. Bench lighting
2. switched outlets upper wall for neons
3. Wall lighting for some old signs
4. 8 x General 4ft double florecence
Wall coverings:
Corrugated metal floor to 4ft, Chair rail cap, then maybe drywall or ?? for the upper area (unsure on the upper 6ft of wall)
Ceiling: Galvalume (Barn Metal)
Insulation: Sprayed expanding foam...will do the ceiling for sure...unsure what I'll do for the walls yet.
Equipment: Garage door opener
Special projects: Sliding garage door (old timey looking with windows along the top) to devide the woodshop and the new space...trying to keep the new space cleaner than the rest of the shop.
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Tomorrow I'll be doing the electrical rough-in. I decided to go with #6 wire for a welder outlet on a 30 or 50 amp breaker....I'm pretty sure both my mig and tig call for a 30amp so at least the wire will be set for the future...I could always upgrade the breaker to 50 if required.
Woodman11
Member
Looking good!! I will definitely be looking forward to the upcoming pictures!!
The GFI idea sounds good - especially if you already have them. I did 2 circuits with GFI breakers for the areas where I thought there may be water and power accidentally mixing.
The GFI idea sounds good - especially if you already have them. I did 2 circuits with GFI breakers for the areas where I thought there may be water and power accidentally mixing.
Xander
Well-known member
I like this a lot! I just hope it doesn't influence me to do the same thing... I can't stop thinking about building something else after "my first one"
X...
I can't stop thinking about building something else after "my first one"X...
MSD Shop
Well-known member
Of all the styles of shops, the barn style has always been my favorite. Love this build alot, and your add-on and new use of space is killer. I will continue to watch this for ideas for mine.
Thanks all for the comments. This building started as an online box plan that I added the rear and side shed open poarch to. From there I enclosed about half of the rear porch. But...if you see the before front pics...the hip on the front of the shed always looked like an after thought. AND...the rain was causing some issues leaking under the centered personnel door and garage doors...so I had to fix that. I really am liking the changes and believe the only downside is the stairwell up the middle of the first floor. While this style of building can be eye appealing to some (myself included) there's alot more maitenance and upkeep required....to keep things simple a metal pole barn has alot going for it.
I've got some new lighting that was left over from a project I was involved with a long time ago...seven little eye balls that I could strategically place to highlight some more old signs...some yet to be discovered by me. I also have a dimmer that came with them. The lighting is Japanese and work with 60hz (see pics)
For the boards consideration...I'm planning two lighting schemes for this new shop space. As the space will serve as my humble display room. Scheme 1 is traditional overhead lighting achieved via 4ft halogens...have 7 planned overhead for this 27ft by 20ft space. Scheme 2 takes two circuts...c1 is for a switch controlled array of outlets along the top of the walls for neon signs, c2 is for a switch controlled array of outlets that will run a mechanical barber pole, couple of more ceiling outlets for more advertising lighting and two exterior plugs for some antique gas pumps. SOoooooo, with all that going on I'll basically have two lighting options: Work and Play
With the eyeballs I plan to wash the wall in a few locations with dimmable light from above... So... to much going on or???
Anybody see any issues with these lights? I'll probally paint them to match the metal ceiling material that I'm planning to use (galv silver)
Now remaining to be figure out...with 40 degrees of tilt...how far out from the wall I'll have to install the eyeballs in order to find the right "lighting sweet spot" for signs I dont have....yet!
One potential problem is that it appears that the recommend temp range for this light is 32 degrees to 89 degrees....I'm not sure I'll have much of an issue with the low limit here in Florida but the upper limit could be an issue....Thoughts???? These lights would be in my ceiling...sprayed foam for insulation in that area but clear of the lights. I'd guess my temp in the attac area would be around 100 degrees or there abouts.
I've got some new lighting that was left over from a project I was involved with a long time ago...seven little eye balls that I could strategically place to highlight some more old signs...some yet to be discovered by me. I also have a dimmer that came with them. The lighting is Japanese and work with 60hz (see pics)
For the boards consideration...I'm planning two lighting schemes for this new shop space. As the space will serve as my humble display room. Scheme 1 is traditional overhead lighting achieved via 4ft halogens...have 7 planned overhead for this 27ft by 20ft space. Scheme 2 takes two circuts...c1 is for a switch controlled array of outlets along the top of the walls for neon signs, c2 is for a switch controlled array of outlets that will run a mechanical barber pole, couple of more ceiling outlets for more advertising lighting and two exterior plugs for some antique gas pumps. SOoooooo, with all that going on I'll basically have two lighting options: Work and Play
With the eyeballs I plan to wash the wall in a few locations with dimmable light from above... So... to much going on or???
Anybody see any issues with these lights? I'll probally paint them to match the metal ceiling material that I'm planning to use (galv silver)
Now remaining to be figure out...with 40 degrees of tilt...how far out from the wall I'll have to install the eyeballs in order to find the right "lighting sweet spot" for signs I dont have....yet!
One potential problem is that it appears that the recommend temp range for this light is 32 degrees to 89 degrees....I'm not sure I'll have much of an issue with the low limit here in Florida but the upper limit could be an issue....Thoughts???? These lights would be in my ceiling...sprayed foam for insulation in that area but clear of the lights. I'd guess my temp in the attac area would be around 100 degrees or there abouts.
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Looking good!! I will definitely be looking forward to the upcoming pictures!!
The GFI idea sounds good - especially if you already have them. I did 2 circuits with GFI breakers for the areas where I thought there may be water and power accidentally mixing.
I believe I'll have to have them for code...will check at my next inspection.
I like this a lot! I just hope it doesn't influence me to do the same thing...
Thanks for that...there are easier ways to build a workshop. Now if I would have forgo one side of the apartment.... I'd have a lift like you do...I need a lift...You gotta heck of a place there yourself.
Of all the styles of shops, the barn style has always been my favorite. Love this build alot, and your add-on and new use of space is killer. I will continue to watch this for ideas for mine.
Dude....I just checked your build thread. There is nothing in this build that will compare to place of yours!!! Your shop is THE real Deal! Thanks for checking my humble little shack
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Ran some wires today..a good project for a rainey day.
For group input...I needed two exterior outlets flanking my garage door for some gas pumps. I'm trying to avoid a large weatherproof box. What I've come up with is using a typical plastic box in the interior walls but it has a screw or turnbuckle inside that allows the box to be adjusted back and out (gives you some adjustment) I'm installing a lap hardie board siding. With this box, I can spin it out to flush up to the outside of the siding then add the exterior cap and silicone up good. This particular cap allows for two plugs to remain connected and sealed up in the box.
I bent the tangs flat and slipped it inbetween the OSB and stud....no shown, but the back side has wings that you can run screws or nails to secure the box in the hole.
This shows the gasket that the plug wires slip thru. Any issues with this application...it's looking good to me so far...will have GFI's inside both.
For group input...I needed two exterior outlets flanking my garage door for some gas pumps. I'm trying to avoid a large weatherproof box. What I've come up with is using a typical plastic box in the interior walls but it has a screw or turnbuckle inside that allows the box to be adjusted back and out (gives you some adjustment) I'm installing a lap hardie board siding. With this box, I can spin it out to flush up to the outside of the siding then add the exterior cap and silicone up good. This particular cap allows for two plugs to remain connected and sealed up in the box.
I bent the tangs flat and slipped it inbetween the OSB and stud....no shown, but the back side has wings that you can run screws or nails to secure the box in the hole.
This shows the gasket that the plug wires slip thru. Any issues with this application...it's looking good to me so far...will have GFI's inside both.
Future speciality lighting to highlight a few of my treasures...to date I've been more of a collector than a restorer...Am hoping to make time to completely restore a few of these...but in the meantime I still enjoy seeing them a naturale'
This sign will be the room focal point with period correct green porcelian sign lamps. The top left corner was cut off by a fella to "make fit" on the gabel end of his barn.....grrrrr. Luckly I had had a "spare corner" from a sign that had nearly the same embossed edge. I cut it to fit the void of this one and rebuilt the backside frame to tie in the new with the old (pic is before the repair....will update soon)
Working machine...needs a little clean-up
Local CL find.....Fire Chief badges are mint originals
Price board is a crude original...had to make the numbers as originals were missing. Price is same as that last used on the pump.
This sign will be the room focal point with period correct green porcelian sign lamps. The top left corner was cut off by a fella to "make fit" on the gabel end of his barn.....grrrrr. Luckly I had had a "spare corner" from a sign that had nearly the same embossed edge. I cut it to fit the void of this one and rebuilt the backside frame to tie in the new with the old (pic is before the repair....will update soon)
Working machine...needs a little clean-up
Local CL find.....Fire Chief badges are mint originals
Price board is a crude original...had to make the numbers as originals were missing. Price is same as that last used on the pump.
I have got to be the slowest siding guy ever. Worked till it got good and dark and then got the spotlights up..finished at 8pm. The wife and I working side by side.
I've got a love/hate relationship with hardi plank. Stuff chips if your not careful...and when your dealing with corners I'd recommend you predrill....you can easly blow out a corner.
Biggest lesson today. Make sure someone is checking the studs (for straightness) during frameing. Some bad ones got by me and I found them. A couple had over an inch of bow in it. I had to cut em at the middle...pulled them out to plumb...and sistered another stud with em. I still have a few to go. The wall wont be perfect but luckly it's on the side of the woods...nobody will see it.
Lumber quality ***** these days... I should have gone with 2x6 walls....less surprises with with a heavier wall. Pics tomorrow for sure.
I've got a love/hate relationship with hardi plank. Stuff chips if your not careful...and when your dealing with corners I'd recommend you predrill....you can easly blow out a corner.
Biggest lesson today. Make sure someone is checking the studs (for straightness) during frameing. Some bad ones got by me and I found them. A couple had over an inch of bow in it. I had to cut em at the middle...pulled them out to plumb...and sistered another stud with em. I still have a few to go. The wall wont be perfect but luckly it's on the side of the woods...nobody will see it.
Lumber quality ***** these days... I should have gone with 2x6 walls....less surprises with with a heavier wall. Pics tomorrow for sure.
For a group cross check...
I've got some new lighting that was left over from a project I was involved with a long time ago...seven little eye balls that I could strategically place to highlight some more old signs...some yet to be discovered by me. I also have a dimmer that came with them. The lighting is Japanese and work with 60hz (see pics)
For the boards consideration...
Anybody see any issues with these lights?
Now remaining to be figure out...with 40 degrees of tilt...how far out from the wall I'll have to install the eyeballs in order to find the right "lighting sweet spot" for signs I dont have....yet!
One potential problem is that it appears that the recommend temp range for this light is 32 degrees to 89 degrees....I'm not sure I'll have much of an issue with the low limit here in Florida but the upper limit could be an issue....Thoughts???? These lights would be in my ceiling...sprayed foam for insulation in that area but clear of the lights. I'd guess my temp in the attac area would be around 100 degrees or there abouts.
I've been at this project for awhile...trudging away. Metal roof to begin this week. My most recent project was to try to stiffen-up the old side of the shed roof. For reference the shed roof is around 12 ft deep...there are some 2 x 6s that I'd call cross ties that span from the building to the outer header. I've used those cross ties support the underside of shed rafters. There was some bounce to the roof before. Unsure if I was ok from an engineering standpoint before (hey I passed inspection...lol) but I thought I could do better. Current spacing of cross-ties are 10 ft....believe I'll split the gaps with several other ones to get better support to the cripples. Here's what I did.
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The roof got started today... Had to doo a little rework behind my roofers. The battens needed some shims at one of the corners. The corner had a low spot that would have shown up when the metal is installed. Used an 8 ft long straight edge to shim it all up. It's all about the details. Hopefully the crew will be on notice tomorrow after they see I went in after them. We'll see. I'm not that difficult to work for...I did bring some iced down beer for the end of the day but they had left already.
don long
Well-known member
Hello Hounddog
I spent this morning reading your thread
As a do it yourself kind of guy I enjoyed your
drama thru the build.
The place is looking great and I like the idea of a display area
to go with the vintage tin (I just fell in love with that old fry gas pump)
Can't wait to see your place up and running again
Please keep those pic.s commin
Don
I spent this morning reading your thread
As a do it yourself kind of guy I enjoyed your
drama thru the build.
The place is looking great and I like the idea of a display area
to go with the vintage tin (I just fell in love with that old fry gas pump)
Can't wait to see your place up and running again
Please keep those pic.s commin
Don
Not sure I understand what you did with the cripple wall under the shed roof, since it's not bearing on much support, and it looks to be at mid span.
What kind of metal roof will you have? Corrugated, 5V, standing seam?
If you have exposed fasteners, ask the roofer about what kind of gaskets on the nails (or screws) and whether they intend to place them in the high or low points on the shape. I always recommend to fasten through the high points because gravity.. Some like them in the low points because aesthetics.
What kind of metal roof will you have? Corrugated, 5V, standing seam?
If you have exposed fasteners, ask the roofer about what kind of gaskets on the nails (or screws) and whether they intend to place them in the high or low points on the shape. I always recommend to fasten through the high points because gravity.. Some like them in the low points because aesthetics.
D L...thanks those Frys are waiting for me to tend to them...I've got a pair now so I'm happy...but their rough. All my treasures are in the rough at the moment. on hold pending me getting this barn situated.
OHSFC ...It's 5V and the screws are at the bottom. Your right about the support being under the requirement. This barn was my first big build I missed a lot of details that I've been chasing ever since. This remodel was to correct several design/engineering issues. The shed roof I did the cripples was initially a clear span of 12 to 14ft (don't remember now) 2x6 rafters 24in on center, decked with OSB. Was always spongy/bouncy. I had some centerline structure below running centerline that was for hanging lighting.... I added a few additional 2 x6 to help catch the support of those cripples and I'm happy with the improvement so far. 2 x times stiffer than before. I could use a few more...your right. As a side note...I'm going to look at those old plans and see what engineering notes may/or may not have addressed this support issue... Irregardless...a lesson learned
Some progress.
OHSFC ...It's 5V and the screws are at the bottom. Your right about the support being under the requirement. This barn was my first big build I missed a lot of details that I've been chasing ever since. This remodel was to correct several design/engineering issues. The shed roof I did the cripples was initially a clear span of 12 to 14ft (don't remember now) 2x6 rafters 24in on center, decked with OSB. Was always spongy/bouncy. I had some centerline structure below running centerline that was for hanging lighting.... I added a few additional 2 x6 to help catch the support of those cripples and I'm happy with the improvement so far. 2 x times stiffer than before. I could use a few more...your right. As a side note...I'm going to look at those old plans and see what engineering notes may/or may not have addressed this support issue... Irregardless...a lesson learned
Some progress.
5V roofing ? Must be something to normal for the lower states ?
mygarageone
Well-known member
The roof got started today... Had to doo a little rework behind my roofers. The battens needed some shims at one of the corners. The corner had a low spot that would have shown up when the metal is installed. Used an 8 ft long straight edge to shim it all up. It's all about the details. Hopefully the crew will be on notice tomorrow after they see I went in after them. We'll see. I'm not that difficult to work for...I did bring some iced down beer for the end of the day but they had left already.
Why the battens ?
Yep a mono truss would have been the best route from the start. I am making progress with my recent additions. IF I ever build another shop it'll be a metal one...1000% simpler and routine maintenance dang near zero as compared to this shop.
I completed the second floor painting before the metal roof got installed. I didn't want to risk making a mess on that new metal. I have no idea how I'd paint it next time...I had to use a ladder to get up to the peak. But the roofers are not that concerned. I've got some significant scratching of the painted surface (on the metal) This will compromise things after time...researching the issue on line discusses options from change out to touch-ups. AGGRIVATING. There's been some 'moments' between them and I. Last night was the rain test...no leaks...so far. Planning to keep the ceilings unfinished for a few months so I can be sure it's tight.
That lower roof looks really close to the window sills. Do you have a closer photo?
Make sure that you have METAL flashing to "shingle" the water down from the windows and from the asphalt roof up above. Do not let the roofer leave if all they have is silicone or tar in there.
Make sure that you have METAL flashing to "shingle" the water down from the windows and from the asphalt roof up above. Do not let the roofer leave if all they have is silicone or tar in there.
It was tight under the windows but ended up with around 4-6in from the bottom of the lower trim board to the top of the transition flash metal. This roof system met with the existing....so that point was fixed from the start. Felt lucky that it was close. I would have preferred more distance...like 12in but IF this causes me troubles next step would be to go to a smaller window....believe these dormers have 30 x 30s now. On a good note...We've had the biggest rains in the past 24hrs than I can remember for the past 10yrs....New space is dry as a bone and I've yet to reinstall the siding back in the areas where the flash had to go....So I deduce that my tar paper job and the roof is performing well.
Had 19 inches of rain in 24hrs... walked my shop 3 times, good so far. Now my biggest issue is to see the cosmetics AND while a few scratches is understandable. There's a couple of areas where there was no concern for the finish. So, with a little surfing on the subject...the most common recommendation is change-out of the piece. A little inspection today and I'll decide which way to go. After the baked on finish there's a galvanize coating...now for me to discern the degree of the scratches.
As a side note: My split roof...asphalt up high and metal down low. Repair work to the shingles above the new roof was done after the metal was in place. There was granules, roofing nails, screws dropping and being walked on throughout the roof the other day. They should have known better...I was at work and their chasing the $$. This has been painful.
As a side note: My split roof...asphalt up high and metal down low. Repair work to the shingles above the new roof was done after the metal was in place. There was granules, roofing nails, screws dropping and being walked on throughout the roof the other day. They should have known better...I was at work and their chasing the $$. This has been painful.
Sorry I missed your question.. With my removing the remaining old shingles I had the option to forgo the battens. But, you can not beat the consistency of having that batten underneath to run that screw into. You avoid the problem of running screws between the plywood or osb seams...where it will/can lift up later. I used 26 ga. metal and...with some careful stepping...you can avoid denting it up.
Progress is creeping along. Both of my girls helping me today install the soffett. Hope to get some caulking done tomorrow so I can paint this soon. While in the past I've used the hardie vented soffett...I over-bought my lap siding and thought I'd save some money by using the extra lap siding and the 8ft metal vents that Lowes sells. Turning out nice so far...will get painted and it'll look even better. Making long rips with my portable Bosch table saw is a pain...but you have too. One rip is jjust over 5in wide...the other is 3 3/4...the vent is 4in wide.
