Thanks Ajustable... I've got 10ft ceilings on the lower level....I believe the eave would be at that give or take. We did stick build the rafters so there's no common stringer going over the top plate.....sooooo I'm not sure where we ended up. I can measure if you need that reference.
Never BIG enough: Shop addition
- Thread starter Hounddog
- Start date
I've been looking for awhile for some old tin with good patina for a wainscot for the new shopspace (inside display/hot rod room) After seeing Ads for the salvaged material going for $1 + a foot...I almost decided to buy some. As luck would have it there was a pile of it beside a rotting log corn crib/cabin/who knows. Had no idea it as there until last night. Well I got 25 sheets total...some better than others. But I believe I can cherry pick the best for the project and have plenty for other projects.
My plan is to recycle some old barn wood to baseboard, ledger, and rails. From the wainscot on up to the ceiling I'll go drywall. The ceiling will be the galvalume barn metal. Should make for a nostalgic backdrop for my signs and pumps and future what-nots.
My plan is to recycle some old barn wood to baseboard, ledger, and rails. From the wainscot on up to the ceiling I'll go drywall. The ceiling will be the galvalume barn metal. Should make for a nostalgic backdrop for my signs and pumps and future what-nots.
My two girls worked hard today helping me install the ceiling under the shop. 48 hrs of hard work...I'm happy with how it's shaping up.
I prepositioned a section of 10k cap chain over the massive beam spanning the patio. While I don't know what my set-up is good for...I'll try not to overdo it. Maybe I'll try to figure it out....hmmm. I've got this to give me a ready lift point.
I prepositioned a section of 10k cap chain over the massive beam spanning the patio. While I don't know what my set-up is good for...I'll try not to overdo it. Maybe I'll try to figure it out....hmmm. I've got this to give me a ready lift point.
F16CrewChief
Well-known member
Are you in Okaloosa county? Thats the amount we got in May
thanks for the lessons on your addition. it has been valuable and reminded me of something that I need to have in hand on my next project (lien releases)!
You have a great place and I am looking forward to seeing the somewhat finished project (since we never really finish these projects)!
Cheers,
Darin
You have a great place and I am looking forward to seeing the somewhat finished project (since we never really finish these projects)!
Cheers,
Darin
Thanks all for the comments
As for the Lien Release...I'll be the first to say that it's not easy to force yourself to get those signed. I always feel that I look like an *** when I ask for it... "as if I'm saying...Sign this so you cant screw me later" can add a grey cloud to conversation..you know
Lot's left to do...stay tuned.
As for the Lien Release...I'll be the first to say that it's not easy to force yourself to get those signed. I always feel that I look like an *** when I ask for it... "as if I'm saying...Sign this so you cant screw me later" can add a grey cloud to conversation..you know
Lot's left to do...stay tuned.
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A little progress....very little. Lights now put up under the addition.
Played with an idea I had to wrap the posts...I needed to check the dimensions and alter as needed. Proving very difficult to find appropriate exterior materials that are Affordable! MDO Medium Density Overlay (aka Signboard)...$90 ish a sheet, PVC sheet same cost or more. Believe I'll use a typical 3/4 ply and clad the exterior with aluminum coil stock formed with a break...will trim out edges with typical 2 x grained trim boards, MTF.
Played with an idea I had to wrap the posts...I needed to check the dimensions and alter as needed. Proving very difficult to find appropriate exterior materials that are Affordable! MDO Medium Density Overlay (aka Signboard)...$90 ish a sheet, PVC sheet same cost or more. Believe I'll use a typical 3/4 ply and clad the exterior with aluminum coil stock formed with a break...will trim out edges with typical 2 x grained trim boards, MTF.
Vernmotor
Well-known member
That will make the post look cool 
Here's an update pics:
Both corner columns will be done like this....the others will be much simpler. I wrapped the white portion with coil stock. I used a general purpose adhesive to assist to bond it to the 3/4pressure treated ply. The metal didn't stay as flat as I'd have wanted. Might end up redoing that portion.... One step forward...one back
Both corner columns will be done like this....the others will be much simpler. I wrapped the white portion with coil stock. I used a general purpose adhesive to assist to bond it to the 3/4pressure treated ply. The metal didn't stay as flat as I'd have wanted. Might end up redoing that portion.... One step forward...one back
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Vernmotor
Well-known member
Looks real nice !
Some progress this weekend. I picked up this old stove from a "yard sell"...kind of...it was is a guys yard with weeds grown up around it and I asked him if he wanted to sell it! So $50 bucks later it was in my truck.
It cleaned up really nice. Needed a few profiles of wire brushes for my grinders to get the job done...a cone type, a flat round one, and a small 'rose bud' looking one for my drill. There was one of the legs that needed a new weld...did that. Also the legs originally had leveling casters...were in bad shape cut them loose and ordered new ones. Probably could have done without them....but thought hey...some chrome bling! Still have to clean up the door...ran out of time. Darn 2 day weekends!!!!!!!
Also, finished the refurb of my old personnel door light....to match another one on the building.
It cleaned up really nice. Needed a few profiles of wire brushes for my grinders to get the job done...a cone type, a flat round one, and a small 'rose bud' looking one for my drill. There was one of the legs that needed a new weld...did that. Also the legs originally had leveling casters...were in bad shape cut them loose and ordered new ones. Probably could have done without them....but thought hey...some chrome bling! Still have to clean up the door...ran out of time. Darn 2 day weekends!!!!!!!
Also, finished the refurb of my old personnel door light....to match another one on the building.
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country boy
Well-known member
Shop is looking good man . cant wait to see the old tin put up
Thanks, it was a necessary addition....I do love the patio area.
That old tin is going to cover the bottom 3 - 4 ft of the walls in the addition but I'm not sure how it'll all trim out. I'm going for a rustic look. Looking for some old chippy paint boards to cut down for chair-rail and baseboard.
I Just got these new feet in the mail today. The size is a little different than what I removed but they'll be perfect. Will weld them up tomorrow...so pics to follow.
Just to pass along...I was really impressed with the Mapp Caster Company. Had a small issue with what I ordered...they made it right and was super accommodating.
This is what they carry: quality casters, wheels and wheel casters including steel casters, phenolic casters, and cast iron casters
http://www.mappcaster.com/Magline.htm
Just to pass along...I was really impressed with the Mapp Caster Company. Had a small issue with what I ordered...they made it right and was super accommodating.
This is what they carry: quality casters, wheels and wheel casters including steel casters, phenolic casters, and cast iron casters
http://www.mappcaster.com/Magline.htm
More progress on the stove...welded up the new couplings and glides today.
Having wrapped up the legs refurb...I transitioned to the inside of the stove. There was no restraint holding the firebrick... I thought why not fab up something to hold the bricks secure.
Some fab work with scrap.
Had some bolts lying around...I tacked these up.
All welded up and bricks are secure. Ran out of brick for the bottom....next weekend I guess.
I very pleased with how it turned out.. I'll highlight the horseshoe and "Englander" brand with some silver enamel soon.
Having wrapped up the legs refurb...I transitioned to the inside of the stove. There was no restraint holding the firebrick... I thought why not fab up something to hold the bricks secure.
Some fab work with scrap.
Had some bolts lying around...I tacked these up.
All welded up and bricks are secure. Ran out of brick for the bottom....next weekend I guess.
I very pleased with how it turned out.. I'll highlight the horseshoe and "Englander" brand with some silver enamel soon.
thickhead
Well-known member
In case you haven't seen it, here is a good simple link on painting raised areas on cast iron.
Click here....
Click here....
I found this company that markets an extreme temp paint. My initial local search did not produce a result. I'll use this to highlight some raised letters and the horseshoe on the front....dang I wish I could pinstripe!!!
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Xtreme-Temperature-Coating-Directions.html
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Xtreme-Temperature-Coating-Directions.html
thickhead
Well-known member
That trick seemed to work out well for you.
Thanks for the info too!! Yes it worked, the only down side is that the pad seemed to l
"lift" some paint as it got tacky. So the finish could be flatter. I'd slow myself down next time and complete the job in few short sessions vs pushing on thru. Also recommend having a fine detail brush for those irregular spots/touch-ups.
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southalabama
Well-known member
Hey just saw this thread. I'm just up the road in Brewton.
Dad was in Okinawa when I was born some 49 years ago. He then finished at eglin
Dad was in Okinawa when I was born some 49 years ago. He then finished at eglin
captain14
Well-known member
this looks like aninteresting thread so I will sit down later and read through it all.
While I have been putting up some insulation in the new addition I have made time to add a few treasures.
And, I'm hopeing to do a tribute to an old C gas car my Dad, Uncle, and friend use to drive in the mid sixties...
I do get distracted easily... But I have made some progress that should launch this build back into action.
And, I'm hopeing to do a tribute to an old C gas car my Dad, Uncle, and friend use to drive in the mid sixties...
I do get distracted easily... But I have made some progress that should launch this build back into action.
Here's the tribute project...I'll give it.. it's own thread... HALF of a 49 British Ford Anglia!!!! Not more than 30mins from me. crazy huh?
My intent is not to try to make it perfect....but something resembling the original Tuff with some wounds...It'll get bolted up to the side of the barn under the overhang so it doesn't rot away...should be real cool one day!!
My intent is not to try to make it perfect....but something resembling the original Tuff with some wounds...It'll get bolted up to the side of the barn under the overhang so it doesn't rot away...should be real cool one day!!
OK all... I need some GJ advice. Pictured is a beam that spans my new addition.
I've been insulating the ceiling in preparation for the metal ceiling... BUT I need to figure out how to best install the I Beam Trolley/Chain Hoist that will run from about 4ft from a the back wall to the garage door opener (I point that out because I'm decided that I don't need it right up to the garage door). My info on the application.. First of all the engineer is working out how much weight I could safely lift from the beam... The beam is roughly 27 ft span to its piers...6in wide (3 ply)...and 16in tall. While I still have to source my I beam...my plan is to hang a 12 ft beam and support it at three points. As far as what is readly available...could I use 5/8 all thread paired with a piece of 3in angle that is drilled to allow the all thread to hang across the beam and below the bottom chord (like a harness) thru the top of the I beam washer and nut to secure. ORrrrrrr is that too small and do I need to pay big bucks at Fasnal for a few 3/4 coarse all thread.. expensive! Thoughts???
I've been insulating the ceiling in preparation for the metal ceiling... BUT I need to figure out how to best install the I Beam Trolley/Chain Hoist that will run from about 4ft from a the back wall to the garage door opener (I point that out because I'm decided that I don't need it right up to the garage door). My info on the application.. First of all the engineer is working out how much weight I could safely lift from the beam... The beam is roughly 27 ft span to its piers...6in wide (3 ply)...and 16in tall. While I still have to source my I beam...my plan is to hang a 12 ft beam and support it at three points. As far as what is readly available...could I use 5/8 all thread paired with a piece of 3in angle that is drilled to allow the all thread to hang across the beam and below the bottom chord (like a harness) thru the top of the I beam washer and nut to secure. ORrrrrrr is that too small and do I need to pay big bucks at Fasnal for a few 3/4 coarse all thread.. expensive! Thoughts???
matt_i
Well-known member
I'm not following your beam...its a monorail...is it going to span 27' and be supported by columns at each end, or is it 12' and hung from the laminated center?
Personally, I'd clear span a "W" wide flange shape, rely on your engineer to design the size of the beam. This way you don't impact the framing at all. There is end-loading on the monorail from trolleying a heavy load.
Were you going to try to hang it, I'd place a flat plate spanning across all 4 members on the top of the wood beam to distribute loading.
On that, I'd use back-to-back channels going out sideways above the wood beam. Trapping a piece of flat bar on each end going vertically down via bolts. Bolted to the flat back of another single channel sideways, under the wood beam. Finally using heavy angle iron, weld a vertical clip to the top center of your I-beam. That weld is critical and should be back-beveled, and gusseted in my opinion. The top of the clip is double-bolted to the center of the bottom channel.
More or less you are using steel to transfer the loads to the top surface of the wooden beam. Everything is bolted except one critical weld. You will probably need several of these hangers, your engineer can devise the spacing between them.
This is how you'd build structural steel in a heavy manufacturing plant. Sized properly it will be bulletproof. Use A325 structural bolts and torque-prevailing locknuts.
Personally, I'd clear span a "W" wide flange shape, rely on your engineer to design the size of the beam. This way you don't impact the framing at all. There is end-loading on the monorail from trolleying a heavy load.
Were you going to try to hang it, I'd place a flat plate spanning across all 4 members on the top of the wood beam to distribute loading.
On that, I'd use back-to-back channels going out sideways above the wood beam. Trapping a piece of flat bar on each end going vertically down via bolts. Bolted to the flat back of another single channel sideways, under the wood beam. Finally using heavy angle iron, weld a vertical clip to the top center of your I-beam. That weld is critical and should be back-beveled, and gusseted in my opinion. The top of the clip is double-bolted to the center of the bottom channel.
More or less you are using steel to transfer the loads to the top surface of the wooden beam. Everything is bolted except one critical weld. You will probably need several of these hangers, your engineer can devise the spacing between them.
This is how you'd build structural steel in a heavy manufacturing plant. Sized properly it will be bulletproof. Use A325 structural bolts and torque-prevailing locknuts.
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matt_i
Well-known member
I'd price-compare with McMasterCarr for anything you buy. I try to avoid Fastenal out of general principle due to their wild pricing.
Channel, hot rolled flat bar, and angle iron should be available from somewhere like Alro Metals or Metal Supermarkets, etc, have to research your area more. Even the big steelyards will generally sell to anyone with a credit card and a way to haul it, some even offer processing like cutting to various lengths for some upcharge.
The weld is critical in this design, let someone well equipped and experienced do this. It should be back-beveled and stick welded with a 7018 rod.
This is a sketch to better clarify. Its a little crude an not super centered...but hopefully will give you the idea. I have some idea of sizes for a 1/2 ton capability, but don't want to get into that on the internet...overhead lifting is serious business. Trust your structural engineer for the loading. However, I'd use 1/2" dia bolts as a minimum size if I was building it for myself. Need to stay out of the radius on the channels.
Channel, hot rolled flat bar, and angle iron should be available from somewhere like Alro Metals or Metal Supermarkets, etc, have to research your area more. Even the big steelyards will generally sell to anyone with a credit card and a way to haul it, some even offer processing like cutting to various lengths for some upcharge.
The weld is critical in this design, let someone well equipped and experienced do this. It should be back-beveled and stick welded with a 7018 rod.
This is a sketch to better clarify. Its a little crude an not super centered...but hopefully will give you the idea. I have some idea of sizes for a 1/2 ton capability, but don't want to get into that on the internet...overhead lifting is serious business. Trust your structural engineer for the loading. However, I'd use 1/2" dia bolts as a minimum size if I was building it for myself. Need to stay out of the radius on the channels.
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matt_i
Well-known member
I would not drill the top or bottom flange of the I-beam. The outer surface (meaning top and bottom surface) is where the maximum tensile and compression stresses are in bending. It would however be acceptable at a support column or either free end as there's zero bending stress there.
Structural steel could be bolted to the web of the I-beam however, but that doesn't help a whole lot in this situation from what I see.
If your buzz-box has DC welding it is probably capable. Not sure how familiar you are with making that type of a high-confidence weld, which is why I suggest a professional.
Also, to add, the vertical angle "clip" could also be replaced by an inverted "T" section, but those are hard to come by, usually obtained from slicing apart really large wide-flange I-beams with an oxyacet torch.
Structural steel could be bolted to the web of the I-beam however, but that doesn't help a whole lot in this situation from what I see.
If your buzz-box has DC welding it is probably capable. Not sure how familiar you are with making that type of a high-confidence weld, which is why I suggest a professional.
Also, to add, the vertical angle "clip" could also be replaced by an inverted "T" section, but those are hard to come by, usually obtained from slicing apart really large wide-flange I-beams with an oxyacet torch.
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don long
Well-known member
Looks like the build is almost complete and the fun is starting
I like your old phone booth and yard stove redue. Now how about those fryes
I like your old phone booth and yard stove redue. Now how about those fryes