To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

New 1/2" drive ratchet

jymmiejamz

Active member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
44
Location
Richmond, Va
I just bought this today mainly for torquing head bolts. Despite being the youngest person in the shop by at least 15 years, I was living in the past using a breaker bar. I was really impressed when I felt how smooth the ratcheting action was on it, it feels better than my 3/8" drive 80 tooth Snap On ratchet. I am a litle worried about how strong it will be, but time will tell. It was a soft grip model that was on sale and I got the SO guy to put a hard handle on it for me.
 

Attachments

  • CIMG0042.jpg
    CIMG0042.jpg
    145.2 KB · Views: 246
  • CIMG0043.jpg
    CIMG0043.jpg
    144 KB · Views: 171
  • CIMG0044.jpg
    CIMG0044.jpg
    145.5 KB · Views: 142
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Mr.Nutcase

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
3,850
Location
USA
Please forgive me for asking this but how in the hell do you torque head bolts with a ratchet?

It is a nice ratchet by the way.....

Agreed...............
maybe they are Torque to yield bolts,but still use torque wrench
 
Last edited:
OP
J

jymmiejamz

Active member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
44
Location
Richmond, Va
I figured you guys would freak out about the torquing the head bolts without a torque wrench! The head bolts are torque to yield. They get torqued to 15 ft lbs, then 90 degrees and then another 90 degrees. I also will be using it to break them loose.

My dealer didn't charge me to swap handles, just the cost of the hard handle.
 

Skyline

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
3,586
I don't suppose you've ever considered a TechAngle torque wrench? So now, you have to use a torque wrench for your initial torque. Then use an angle gauge with your new ratchet. I guess you could eyeball 90* but using a gauge is more accurate. The Tech Angle wrench makes the process much easier and more accurate. If you add the cost of a ratchet like this to the cost of an angle gauge, you'd be more than half way to the cost of the TechAngle.
 

Fedwrench

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
14,955
Location
Valley of the sun
what is torque to yeild?

A single use, somewhat strechable bolt often found in critical applications like cylinder head bolts. The bolt is tightened to a specific measurement in foot pounds, followed by being tightened more in a stated measurement in degrees often more than one time. The tech angle torque wrench is the way to go with these, everything is a swag, especially on the third pass when you're tired.:beer:
Great looking ratchet!!!
 

Wakefield

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
5,132
Location
Arlington VA (but would like to get out to country
Are there some bolts that call for low initial torque,then require additional angle measured turning/tightening that are not considered "torque to yield"?
I think most of such kinds of bolts "torque to yield" are supposed to be disposed of when they are removed,you have to use a new one to reassemble?
Is this stuff just something to allow smaller fasteners than the good old stuff? Anything like this finding its way into Caterpillar Diesels? Do these bolts ever get reused when they shouldn't be?
 
Last edited:

Chris_PT

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
269
Location
Shreveport, Louisiana
Torque to yield bolts need to be thrown away after removal. The crank pulley bolt on my corvette is this type of bolt.

Nice looking ratchet, BTW
 

Red Green

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
1,905
Location
South Central Michigan
Do these bolts ever get reused when they shouldn't be?

All the time. I know my dad did a cam change on a Sunbird with torque to yeild bolts. He reused the bolts, head gasket and put a used cam and lifters in the car. I know it was still running for at least two years after he sold it.


Nice ratchet by the way.
 

Fudog

Active member
Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Messages
40
Location
Weirton, WV
I just bought a dual 80,80 tooth 3/8 flex head ratchet off of ebay that has just a regular handle. My question is can I purchase one of the screwdriver handles like this ratchet has and if so what would the snap-on part number be as well as the cost. Thanks
 

shotgunfatcat

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
1,263
Location
I am the Wanderer
I just bought a dual 80,80 tooth 3/8 flex head ratchet off of ebay that has just a regular handle. My question is can I purchase one of the screwdriver handles like this ratchet has and if so what would the snap-on part number be as well as the cost. Thanks

Regular handle as in a chrome handle? You would need to machine it down for it to work.

The handles are like 15 bucks. There is a thread out there with this done, but I don't care to waste my time looking for it.
 

BigE

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
928
Location
Central Alabama
Pre-defined torque specs, angles of rotation and bolt stretch are all methods used to arrive at a bolt pre-load or clamping force on a given fastener. Those are also in order of effectiveness from least to greatest. Some fasteners just need enough force to hold together and overtorquing isn't critical as long as the parts stay together. However, critical joints (like head bolts) require a certain load range, no more, no less to ensure a proper connection (and in the case of a cylinder head, a proper seal). Torque-to-yield bolts stretch in order to give the specified clamping force, no more, no less. As such, the material strength has changed once they are torqued/angled. That's why you should replace TTY bolts even if they were only recently installed.

Nice ratchet! I've been meaning to pick up a large ratchet and torque angle guage myself. Right now, the only long ratchets I have are torque wrenches and I won't be breaking any bolts loose with them!
 
OP
J

jymmiejamz

Active member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
44
Location
Richmond, Va
I don't suppose you've ever considered a TechAngle torque wrench? So now, you have to use a torque wrench for your initial torque. Then use an angle gauge with your new ratchet. I guess you could eyeball 90* but using a gauge is more accurate. The Tech Angle wrench makes the process much easier and more accurate. If you add the cost of a ratchet like this to the cost of an angle gauge, you'd be more than half way to the cost of the TechAngle.

I considered it, but I wouldn't trust that if it slipped off. Every tech in the shop (and probably 95% of Land Rover techs) just use a paint pen to mark the bolts. I also wouldn't want to be putting a pipe on a torque wrench for more leverage which is usually necessary with these bolts.

A single use, somewhat strechable bolt often found in critical applications like cylinder head bolts.

Not all TTY bolts are single use bolts. If manufacturers have a recall on something with TTY bolts they will tell you to reuse them up to three times. I know both Land Rover and Jaguar do this. They tell you to mark the bolts with a punch each time you reuse them.



Thanks for the compliments everyone!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ngk22r

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2010
Messages
1,589
Location
AZ
I considered it, but I wouldn't trust that if it slipped off. Every tech in the shop (and probably 95% of Land Rover techs) just use a paint pen to mark the bolts. I also wouldn't want to be putting a pipe on a torque wrench for more leverage which is usually necessary with these bolts.



Not all TTY bolts are single use bolts. If manufacturers have a recall on something with TTY bolts they will tell you to reuse them up to three times. I know both Land Rover and Jaguar do this. They tell you to mark the bolts with a punch each time you reuse them.



Thanks for the compliments everyone!

What I thought before I read this post. The good ol' Rover / Buick v8. Fun stuff, and great money makers on the Discos, Defenders, Classics and pre L322's
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
I don't suppose you've ever considered a TechAngle torque wrench? So now, you have to use a torque wrench for your initial torque. Then use an angle gauge with your new ratchet. I guess you could eyeball 90* but using a gauge is more accurate. The Tech Angle wrench makes the process much easier and more accurate. If you add the cost of a ratchet like this to the cost of an angle gauge, you'd be more than half way to the cost of the TechAngle.

90 degrees is a quarter of a turn, it isn't rocket science to eyeball that within a few degrees, just cannot see where a angle gauge is necessary on something as simple as 90 degrees.

Charles
 
OP
J

jymmiejamz

Active member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
44
Location
Richmond, Va
What I thought before I read this post. The good ol' Rover / Buick v8. Fun stuff, and great money makers on the Discos, Defenders, Classics and pre L322's

The BMW engined RR's are great money too! The BMW cooling system leaks almost as much as a Rover V8. Now that the newer models are coming out of warranty they are pretty good too, I actually quite like working on the new ones since they aren't covered in 4 inches of oil/grease.
 

a390st

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
920
A local garage that fantasizes that it is a Rover shop because they bought a laptop with Auto Logic on it from a defunct shop charges $60.00/hr for everything but Rovers and $80.00/hr for Rovers. They like to think they are really good because they own a torque wrench.

I do RRC's almost exclusively. I hate P38A's but get stuck with them, too. D1's aren't bad to work on. I was just working on a P38A today where the expansion tank got antifreeze on the wiring harnesses that run underneath it leading squirrels to completely shred about two dozen wires. What a train wreck.
 

ngk22r

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2010
Messages
1,589
Location
AZ
The BMW engined RR's are great money too! The BMW cooling system leaks almost as much as a Rover V8. Now that the newer models are coming out of warranty they are pretty good too, I actually quite like working on the new ones since they aren't covered in 4 inches of oil/grease.

Did you get a group of the AJ8's that needed the bed plate reseal on the Range Rovers?
 
OP
J

jymmiejamz

Active member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
44
Location
Richmond, Va
A local garage that fantasizes that it is a Rover shop because they bought a laptop with Auto Logic on it from a defunct shop charges $60.00/hr for everything but Rovers and $80.00/hr for Rovers. They like to think they are really good because they own a torque wrench.

I do RRC's almost exclusively. I hate P38A's but get stuck with them, too. D1's aren't bad to work on. I was just working on a P38A today where the expansion tank got antifreeze on the wiring harnesses that run underneath it leading squirrels to completely shred about two dozen wires. What a train wreck.

I'd much rather work on a P38 than a Freelander. In all honesty P38's are pretty good money makers, but I hate driving them and/or looking at them.

Did you get a group of the AJ8's that needed the bed plate reseal on the Range Rovers?

We had two at our dealership, thankfully I didn't have to do either of them.
 

a390st

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
920
Do you guys get the Freelanders with Rover K-Series engines that blow headgaskets every 15 minutes and suffer oil starvation due to undersized oil rails in the bottom end?

No, but I do get P38A's with fuse boxes and BECM's that are shot due to being right behind the battery and being eaten up from battery fumes. I absolutely HATE trying to solder the stupid boards because replacing everything costs nearly as much as the truck is worth. If I have looked at the electrical diagrams in the RAVE manual once, I have looked at them ten thousand times on those trucks when diagnosing problems. Oh, the true joy it is when you get to work on a RRC, D1, Defender or Series.
 

Moose-LandTran

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
15,945
Location
The Brink of Insanity (England)
No, but I do get P38A's with fuse boxes and BECM's that are shot due to being right behind the battery and being eaten up from battery fumes. I absolutely HATE trying to solder the stupid boards because replacing everything costs nearly as much as the truck is worth. If I have looked at the electrical diagrams in the RAVE manual once, I have looked at them ten thousand times on those trucks when diagnosing problems. Oh, the true joy it is when you get to work on a RRC, D1, Defender or Series.

I never work on Range Rovers/Land Rovers any more. I used to work on a lot of Range Rover Sports. Suspension rattle? Right back to the dealer! (Ha, faulty air suspension..) can't say i miss working on them. Much prefer working on BMWs and VW-Audi cars.

At least you don't work on French and Italian cars, they're the worst. Absolute **** in many cases.
 

wafrederick

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2010
Messages
6,048
Location
Holton,Mi
I have reused torque to yield bolts and not a single comeback.I seen a weird torque spec on the headbolts which is for a Saturn Vue with the 3.0 V6: 17 foot pounds,90 degree turn 3 times.I have work one one Land Rover,nothing but horrible to work on.Had to change spark plugs and the back 3 were horrible to get to.Price an used engine for a Land Rover,$3,000.00 for an used engine.One was at a dealer only auto auction and it was announced with a bad engine.VW-Audis are horrible to work on too.Had to remove the front end on a Volkswagon to find an oil leak.I have done a transmission change on a 2001 Beetle with the automatic,horrible to get out.Most transmission shops will tell you no on working on a VW/Audi automatic since they are a huge POS.Saabs which are a huge POS with the 4 cylinders do have lube problems to the bottom end too and Saab will not do a thing about it,dealers know about it.
 

blarf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
513
Do these bolts ever get reused when they shouldn't be?

Sure. Volvo switched to TTY head bolts in their four cylinder motors in 85. Pretty sure the official word is that you've gotta toss them after five uses or when they exceed the specified length. Of course, if you've pulled the head five times on one of those motors you're doing something very, very wrong.
 

a390st

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
920
VW 01M sutomatic transmissions were garbage. For more than 5 yrs now, though, most have been DSG transmissions rather than traditional automatics. They aren't spectacular, but haven't been the worst things on earth. The DMF's have been known to grenade, though. The manuals are great, though, and aren't bad to work on. There was a time when the DMF's on some of the manuals were causing problems, but much less now.

You can get LR short blocks for anything prior to 2003 for about $4k or less. Used engines go for much less around here. I've seen plenty for cheap, and got a 4.0 that had a top end rebuild prior to being wrecked for about $250.00 a while back. The problem with any of those trucks is that the general electronic and other assorted problems have the truck worth less than $5k and the fuel economy is going to be about 12-14 mpg. There aren't too many people who want to sink that kind of money into something that is that bad on gas and is subject to many other expensive repairs, especially when 95% never get off road. The newer models, well now that's just another very expensive story altogether.
 

blarf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
513
The BMW engined RR's are great money too! The BMW cooling system leaks almost as much as a Rover V8. Now that the newer models are coming out of warranty they are pretty good too, I actually quite like working on the new ones since they aren't covered in 4 inches of oil/grease.

Hey now. Save for the profile gaskets, expansion tanks, valley pan gaskets, water pumps, thermostats, and I guess radiators... BMW cooling systems aren't so bad. lol.
 

Moose-LandTran

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
15,945
Location
The Brink of Insanity (England)
The 4-speed autos are clunky, the one in my dad's car does some harsh shifts sometimes. DSGs are known for being clunky too when engaging first or reverse from neutral/park, but are very strong boxes. (Some have put 500-600bhp through untouched DSGs.)
 

ngk22r

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2010
Messages
1,589
Location
AZ
Do you guys get the Freelanders with Rover K-Series engines that blow headgaskets every 15 minutes and suffer oil starvation due to undersized oil rails in the bottom end?

The k freelanders were junk boxes on wheels, fist the coolant pipes would fall apart so there you go changing the thermostat and cross over pipe, after that repair the head gaskets would fail, then after you installed new head gaskets it was a waiting game to see how long the car would last until it needed the whole new motor. Our dealer started to give a huge trade in value towards a new LR3.

I myself hade 3 bed plate reseals, but as a dealer hole we had a total of about 24 of them. One of them was an LR3 but that was a fluke. I found it funny how an engineer tried to claim the front diff was causing the bed plate to leak, then why didnt the L322 have the same issue let alone the early AJ8's have the issue? Oh well fun stuff though.

And for those who think the spark plugs are hard to get to near the bulk head on the disco's, all you need is this:
33303.jpg


never had an issue when using the double swivel socket
 

mspecperformance

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
264
so after i buy the hard handle, what is required to fit it on the ratchet? Must the ratchet already have a comfort grip? Is there a thread with a DIY?
 

Moose-LandTran

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
15,945
Location
The Brink of Insanity (England)
so after i buy the hard handle, what is required to fit it on the ratchet? Must the ratchet already have a comfort grip? Is there a thread with a DIY?

Unless you're going to be machining the ratchet it must be a soft grip one, then you need to drill out the handle to suit the bare end of the ratchet and pound it on with a soft hammer.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom