New 400ft^2 Epoxy Floor - Yet another thread.

[kevperro]

I've done my due diligence on the web research. My garage is 19'x21' so about 400 square feet and rectangular with very few obstructions. A standard concrete poured 10-years ago when the house was built.

I've drywalled, painted and installed a mini-split heat pump so I control inside humidity and temp. I also bought and am in the process of installing some nice benches, cabinets, tool chest etc.. etc.. from Sams Club. I have some nice 4x8 overhead steel racks for storage of stuff and to keep my minimal floor space usable.

I'm going to moisture test my floor this week. The slab is nicely drained and above grade and with this being recent construction I'm not expecting a problem. The concrete looks standard... there are a few minor stains from car tires but otherwise normal.

I want a standard gray + plastic chip appearance with a good top coat. My plan is to acid etch per the manufactures directions (Legacy), maybe clean the floor spots with an oil clean-up solution.

Anyway... I've not ordered yet but fairly certain Legacy will be my supplier. I like they way they support the users on this forum. Absolute cheapest solution is not my priority but I don't want to throw money down the drain either. So... onto my questions:

#1. Should I buy the Epoxy Primer ($155) or go without?

#2. The kit list coverage to 600 ft^2. Can I apply thicker on 400 ft^2 or am I just going to have some extra product?

#3. Top coat.... I want the ability to touch-up top coat issues if I damage the floor in the future. Is that a possibility?

Oh.. I'm in the Seattle area so we never had two days without rain....not this time of year but our temps are mild (45 deg. right now). I can heat the garage but I measured the slab temp @ 49-55 deg (the sides are lower temp). Do I need to wait for summer?

 

[Jim B]

1) Absolutely get the primer. It's cheap insurance.

2) If I remember the paper work that comes with the kit shows the coverage as 200 feet per kit if I remember correctly where as they sell them as 300 feet. In any case it would be better to have a little left over than be short.

3) If you finish with a clear polyurethane you can touch that up easily (not counting emptying the garage). Sand off the gloss, wipe down with denatured alcohol and apply the finish. I did this a few months ago. I also did a repair to the epoxy and the color of the new finish didn't match at all so keep in mind that could happen also.

Your slab sounds a little cool but you should check with the manufacturer of the product you use. You probably want do a moisture test on your slab before you buy any product.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

nice tips Jim B!

That low temp is going to drag out the cure time pretty well.
I would wait a little longer unless you can get the slab into the high 50s.



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[kevperro]

Ok... getting the slab in the high 50's will take 6-months!

A few more questions:

#1. There are two coating options, the standard 2-part polyurethane and the polyaspartic clear. From the specs the polyaspartic looks to have better abrasion resistance and better UV protection to prevent yellowing. Is there anything else I should know to inform my purchasing decision between the two?

#2. There is an option for a UV inhibitor. Is that for the epoxy or clear coat?

#3. How do I buy the extra materials to do a checker board look? I'd like to do a large border around the walls of the space and a simple checkerboard pattern in the middle.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Here is a link to a checkerboard talk that went on some time back: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88263

Polyaspartic is the superior product for many reasons. Although, most installers purchase for the cure speed, saves labor.

Yes, that is for the epoxy. Unless under a carport, is not a requirement.

Don't buy in kit form, buy the materials by the gallon.

Here are the basics: Grind/etch for prep, fill any cracks, apply a primer, coat the entire floor with the lighter color. Tape off and begin the black.

Frankly, I would use our Standard for the primer, SD in white, SD in black, Polyaspartic clear over the balance.

The SD is more viscous and will be easier to keep from running under the tape.

Thanks and good-luck.

 

[GromitInWA]

Kevperro - I'm also in the Seattle area. Would love to know about any companies you like the of for the job.