New air compressor, couple setup questions...

[R5P7Duster]

Hey guys, I just ordered a 80 gallon 2 stage compressor. I was sick of my 30 gallon not keeping up to what I'm now throwing at it, so I figured I'd go big and never worry again.

With that said, how would you set this up? I might paint with a HVLP gun a couple times a year. I mainly use it to run grinders, dynafiles, DA sanders, and cabinet blaster. What air dryer would you suggest? Probably use it for 10-15 minutes steady at a crack. Then probably 30-45 min of no use. I was thinking of going with the rapid air 3/4" system. This is my first industrial size compressor so I want to set it up right, but I don't want to go over kill if I don't need it. ie., $600+ air dryer unless I actually need it.

TIA guys!

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[CrashmanS]

I use a Sharpe f88 separator. I have a body shop and run every tool mentioned above. You just need to make sure you have it far enough away from the compressor to allow the air time to cool so it can remove the water condensate. I have had this separator for 15 years with no issues. Also you say 2 stage. What is the max air pressure the compressor supplies? The f88 has a max pressure of 160psi.

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[R5P7Duster]

The compressor will do 175, but I have no reason to set it that high. I have read that you want 25' minimum from the tank to the first drop for air cooling.

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[CrashmanS]

Mine has a small radiator type cooler on the compressor outlet and is maybe 10' from my compressor and it gets every bit of water. My compressor is a 2 cylinder vs 2 stage. 2 cylinders provide more cfm at a lower psi. 2 stage provides more psi at the cost of cfm. I have a 7hp 60 gallon compressor with a top pressure of 120. This is enough to run every body shop tool I have, including help paint guns.
But I do have to manually drain the dryer. Don't know if you are looking more for a cooler/dryer with auto drain or not.

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[sberry]

Leave the setting where it came from the factory its designed to run correctly that way, if you were going to mess with it should have saved some money and bought a pos.

 

[Trey T]

Look in deal thread for the air dryer from Pricess Auto. I got two of them and I'm planning to use the desiccants (transparent color pellets) that people recommend on here.

 

[R5P7Duster]

Leave the setting where it came from the factory its designed to run correctly that way, if you were going to mess with it should have saved some money and bought a pos.

Yeah, I didn't plan on changing it. Some people have said they are set lower from the factory than they are actually rated for. Supposed to run 17.1 cfm at 175psi.

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[R5P7Duster]

I don't mind draining anything. I can take the minute to do it, not a big deal to me.

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[CrashmanS]

Yeah, I didn't plan on changing it. Some people have said they are set lower from the factory than they are actually rated for. Supposed to run 17.1 cfm at 175psi.

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That will do!

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[engineer2]

If my air dryer ever craps out I'll be looking at the HF refrigerated air dryer. It would probably be fine at higher two-stage pressures if you substitute a timed drain valve for the float drain.

I see a lot of posts about aftercoolers removing every trace of moisture, but this is a fallacy unless you live in a desert climate. It's usually not an issue since air tools will tolerate a fair amount of water if you oil them regularly, and if you are painting, a disposable dissicant dryer is a good idea anyway.

 

[R5P7Duster]

If my air dryer ever craps out I'll be looking at the HF refrigerated air dryer. It would probably be fine at higher two-stage pressures if you substitute a timed drain valve for the float drain.

I see a lot of posts about aftercoolers removing every trace of moisture, but this is a fallacy unless you live in a desert climate. It's usually not an issue since air tools will tolerate a fair amount of water if you oil them regularly, and if you are painting, a disposable dissicant dryer is a good idea anyway.

How much do you need to use a compressor before you can validate a refrigerator dryer?


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[matt_i]

Personally I set my pressure switch at 125-130psi (was originally a 175psi setting).

You need a nut driver. Or a crescent wrench.

Why run the compressor all the way up into the zone where the highest temps are created for all components involved if you don't need the additional air jammed into the tank? In my mind, things that run cooler last longer.

It doesn't lower the output of the pump in steady state either.

 

[engineer2]

How much do you need to use a compressor before you can validate a refrigerator dryer?

To me and air dryer is an essential piece of equipment, especially if you live in an area where the humidity gets high. Get one if you can afford one. $300 isn't that much.

My dryer quit last summer (ran low on R-12) and I could see fog and water droplets coming out of my air tool exhaust. Dry air is better to put in your tires too.

 

[R5P7Duster]

Thanks, I'll start a fund for one. Got the compressor wired in today and gave it the initial 30 min test run. No issues. Tomorrow I will hook up the 3/4 line to the filter and let it build pressure.

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