New Air Compressor - Wiring and Misc. Questions

[Adrian1281]

Been on the forum for a while now, never posted anything. I just picked up this IR SS5-L5 from Craigslist for $650 and I have a couple questions.

1. From all the threads and suggestions I've read here, I'm planning on wiring it via a double-pole 30 amp breaker and #10 wire (10/2 w/ ground). I might add a plug just so I have the option of disconnecting it easily in case I want to move it. Does this sound right?

2. The petcock drain on the bottom is hard to reach. What can I do to make this easier? Add a 90 degree of some sort, some copper line, and another valve? Is their a solution that doesn't involve soldering copper? Any comments on sizes of fittings I need?

3. What kind of fitting at the air outlet on top of the compressor do I need in order to connect an air hose? Is it 3/8 or 1/2?

Sorry for the "noob" questions but I know you guys are a treasure chest of knowledge...

Picture of compressor and proximity to breaker panel for reference on the wiring question:

 

[plinker]

For the drain get a brass 90* street L, (brass, so it dont rust into the tank)take a piece of pipe (black, galv, brass ete...) so it clears the tank add a 1/4 turn ball valve and another street L(so the water dont shoot straight out)

The only problem with using brass is if the water freezes it will burst(so keep it drained).

 

[rburke65]

For the fitting on top? Can't see it! Got a rule?...measure it.

 

[Torque1st]

Your instruction sheet probably lists the outlet fitting size.

Push the plug thru a piece of paper carefully and take the paper to the store to get the proper receptacle. If the unit did not come with a plug use an old style 3-prong electric dryer pigtail and receptacle. Wire the receptacle for L1, L2, and ground.

 

[GSSFC]

You can't just use romex if you want a plug. You need to by SO cord to make a removable cord.

You can use pipe and pipe fittings for the drain valves, no need for soldering, just dope and tighten.

Tim

 

[Adrian1281]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I got the compressor wired up. I also plumbed the drain so that it sticks out. I used 2 90 degree fittings, 2 4 inch extensions, a piece to join the extensions, and a ball valve. All of this was 1/4 NPT.

The air outlet I was referring to is a 1/2 NPT. Since I previously had a very small compressor, all my stuff used 1/4 couplers. So I bought a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer and am going to use that for now until I buy 3/8 size hose and couplers. Then I'll just make a reducer by joining a 3/8 male to 1/4 female. I hope that makes sense...

I have on small problem though. After changing the air filter and oil I started it. Unfortunately the pressure kept rising until it started "bouncing" off the safety valve at about 145 psi. So I assume the pressure switch is broken. Is this something that might just be dirty? Should I replace it with the original Ingersoll-Rand or get something else?

The only thing I don't like about the original pressure switch is that there isn't much room under the cover for all the wiring. What do you guys recommend?

The compressor is 220v single phase by the way...

I'll take pictures of all this tomorrow.

 

[Torque1st]

Make sure the pressure switch is wired correctly.

 

[larry4406]

Make sure the pressure switch is wired correctly.

and the on/off settings are also adjusted properly.

 

[Torque1st]

and the on/off settings are also adjusted properly.

The factory usually has those set fairly well unless they have been messed with...

Man, I hate to see one of those compressors with the inlet and outlet plumbed into the same place on the tank.

 

[Adrian1281]

There are only 4 terminals on the pressure switch. Two for the motor and two for the line. I don't think it's wired incorrectly but I'll check it again.

Is every pressure switch adjustable?

I'll take pictures of it a little later.

 

[Adrian1281]

Ok, I looked at the pressure switch in closer detail today. The part number on it is the same as what is called out in my parts list for the SS5L5. Also a sticker on the inside of the cover specifies "on at 95 psi" and "off at 135psi".

I know it's wired correctly. There's only 4 wires on it, 2 for the motor and 2 for the input power.

There doesn't seem to be an adjustment screw although a security hex on top moves up and down when I push on it. Perhaps tightening or loosening it changes the pressure on the diaphragm?

Why are there two air sources going to the pressure switch? One on the bottom and a small line coming in from the side?

I'm gonna take the thing apart in case maybe it's dirty with rust or something. If I need to replace it, should I buy the same one from IR or can anyone suggest a good replacement?

The problem:

The two air sources I'm talking about:

The inside of the switch showing the security hex:

 

[Torque1st]

The small line is an unloader function that relieves the pressure on the compressor making it easier to start the motor. It goes to a check valve up near the compressor. It is what makes that Pssst noise when the motor shuts down.

The security torx screw should be the pressure adjustment.

Get a cable clamp on that electric cord!