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New airlines and condensor

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Ironhorse74

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So I thought I would show how I was proceeding with my air system in the shop. This will probably take place over a couple of weekends.

I am going to be living with this for a long time so I want to do it right and neatly. First thing I did was build a layout jig. Each of the laterals slopes about a 1/2" in four feet.

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This is how I used the layout jig.

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Once all my lines were drawn, I measured where the hangers went.

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These are the hangers I used



Finally I built a jig to solder the laterals. I am using street ells. The solder is #8 stay brite and their flux.

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fabjunkie

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Interested to see how this works out. I've been contemplating a similar set up, but with vertical runs with a drain at the bottom of each one.
 
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Vinko

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Nice one. I'm sure you've seen them but there are scores and scores of posts with similar set ups to this one going back to at least 2005. Some really great resources. I like the copper in ascending/descending rows like you've got. Have you thought of putting a few drains at a couple of points, or are you pretty confident that you'll have all the condensation running down without a problem?
 
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Ironhorse74

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Vinko said:
Have you thought of putting a few drains at a couple of points, or are you pretty confident that you'll have all the condensation running down without a problem?
Click to expand...

Thanks. Plan is to have a drain at the bottom of the radiator where it feeds the rest of the system. Below the regulatory in the next picture.
 
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Ironhorse74

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Got a little done today. Brought the supply up to the top. The connector is a TSC 1/2" hydraulic line. The supply should drain back to the tank. On the other side is a Harbor Freight air regulator.


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Ironhorse74

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Got a little more done. I bought a flexzilla enclosed hose reel. I am not sure about this, I think I would rather have a open reel. I plumbed in for anot her hose reel by the yet to be installed hoist. I will see how I like the enclosed one before purchasing another. The red hose reel is for the non existent work bench. It is connected by a TSC hydraulic hose.



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upload a gif



image post
 
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Schurkey

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Ironhorse74 said:
I will be hooking up a blast cabinet. I don't want to regulate the air to it.
Click to expand...
My glass bead blaster suggests no more than 90 psi. More pressure doesn't make it work better, but--apparently--it does break more beads.

I put a separate regulator on the cabinet to hold it to 80--90 psi, while the rest of the system runs ~135.
 
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Ironhorse74

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Schurkey said:
My glass bead blaster suggests no more than 90 psi. More pressure doesn't make it work better, but--apparently--it does break more beads.

I put a separate regulator on the cabinet to hold it to 80--90 psi, while the rest of the system runs ~135.
Click to expand...

Interesting. The bead blaster has yet to be purchased. If that is the case I can put a regulator on that line.
 
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dbabicky

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Ironhorse74 said:
Got a little done today. Brought the supply up to the top. The connector is a TSC 1/2" hydraulic line. The supply should drain back to the tank. On the other side is a Harbor Freight air regulator.


imag
Click to expand...

Not being a jerk, but, what is the point of all the criss-crossing of the pipe ? Just looks like a waste of pipe to me. Are you trying to cool the air, or collect condensation ? If it's condensation, why not just put a water separator on it.
 
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Ironhorse74

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This is it. One small leak in the copper. Easily fixed. I ran the compressor for about 30 minutes. The highest input temperature I could achieve was 243 degrees Fahrenheit. The output was 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature outside was 72 degrees. Not bad.







upload a gif
 
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Ironhorse74

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dbabicky said:
Not being a jerk, but, what is the point of all the criss-crossing of the pipe ? Just looks like a waste of pipe to me. Are you trying to cool the air, or collect condensation ? If it's condensation, why not just put a water separator on it.
Click to expand...

Those water separators don't work that well. This condenser should do a good job. I worked in a trailer shop where your air tools would spray water. Never again.
 
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GarageWidget

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What we have been doing here in Florida on this topic is use AC condensers from large trucks to cool down the air charge.

We see ~100+ degree difference from head unit to tank, remember a condenser on a AC system is designed to do exactly that - remove heat. Put a fan on the unit that kicks on when the compressor does and bam super cool air.

In Fla we have up to 80% humidity at any given time. My friend who did this used to have water shooting out of his air tools all day long (with separator). He also coupled a drain system like the above example and when he paints small stuff in his garage no water in paint.

Copper is so expensive though. Nice garage!
 
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md21722

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dbabicky said:
Not being a jerk, but, what is the point of all the criss-crossing of the pipe ? Just looks like a waste of pipe to me. Are you trying to cool the air, or collect condensation ? If it's condensation, why not just put a water separator on it.
Click to expand...

Hot air holds more water than cool air. The needs to be cooled to get the water out of it. If it cools too much at your tool, you get water coming out of your tool.
 
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DorkFish

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tonycastec

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The burst pressure of copper pipe depends on the wall thickness. So we need to know if it is Type K, L or the thin-wall M.
M is rated(not burst!)W.P. for 247 psi at 400 degrees F .
https://www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf
BUT - M is vulnerable to being dented
If you can afford it, Copper is great !
If you are talking about an Industrial/Truck aftercooler/Intercooler, different story.
 
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smalltown

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Ironhorse74 how is it working ????
Any idea how much water is getting beyond the condenser ?
I was wondering, because I might have my first outlet without any slope, and it would be ~20 feet from the condensor.
 
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