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new astro brake bleeders...

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papavolume

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I don't get their emails but looks interesting enough. I'm curious how many people would be doing brake work that wouldn't require removing the wheels anyway but it looks like it would be helpful either way.
 

Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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CobraRed

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If it's priced right, should be a good product.
I would say the little brake bleeder MityVac I have ***** if it actually did, which it doesn't, and therein lies the problem.
 

Spudland_Dave

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I know theres a bunch of styles...a couple months ago the slave cyl let go on our Accord beater...doing the swap was easy, but bleeding it that night was IMPOSSIBLE...the next day I ran over to HF, got one of the vacuum bleeders and literally took me 5 mins tops to get it bled perfectly...some of the best money I've ever spent at HF.
 

53 hemi

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uploadfromtaptalk1437607151893.gif

I have an old car where the MC is lower than the wheel cylinders. I've tried everything. Speed bleeders have been the best for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

papavolume

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If it's priced right, should be a good product.
I would say the little brake bleeder MityVac I have ***** if it actually did, which it doesn't, and therein lies the problem.

Haha, thats the one I have now and I have only used the one at home once and it worked great. The one we have at the shop is new and has been working great but sometimes its just a matter of trying a different hose in case the one it came with gets too weak to seal well.
 
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I don't get their emails but looks interesting enough. I'm curious how many people would be doing brake work that wouldn't require removing the wheels anyway but it looks like it would be helpful either way.

When possible I always bleed brakes without removing the wheels.

The Product Sheet doesn't show you how they attach to the bleeders. Anyone aware of how they do this?
 

papavolume

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uploadfromtaptalk1437607151893.gif

I have an old car where the MC is lower than the wheel cylinders. I've tried everything. Speed bleeders have been the best for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Those are always a great choice too. I have used them 2 or 3 times with success.
 

CobraRed

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uploadfromtaptalk1437607151893.gif

I have an old car where the MC is lower than the wheel cylinders. I've tried everything. Speed bleeders have been the best for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

My car takes 6, and that only covers my car. Anytime I work on anything else, back to old school.

Those ARE great tho - if they don't break. But normal bleeders break too.

Haha, thats the one I have now and I have only used the one at home once and it worked great. The one we have at the shop is new and has been working great but sometimes its just a matter of trying a different hose in case the one it came with gets too weak to seal well.

I find you cant unthread the bleeder more than a single turn or so or else it ***** in air as well.
 

Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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When possible I always bleed brakes without removing the wheels.

The Product Sheet doesn't show you how they attach to the bleeders. Anyone aware of how they do this?

There's a rubber seal on the inside of the wrench that is shaped for a bleeder ****** and sort of snaps onto the bleeder.
GqzWI5E.jpg


The wrench can also be lifted off the hex drive portion into this free collar area so that you can use multiple swings of the wrench on the bleeders without changing the seal
rjVkzXU.jpg


Both the sealing socket and the wrench are 12-point to minimize the amount of space needed to work the wrench
8MqAcSU.jpg


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gungatim

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west mich
I know theres a bunch of styles...a couple months ago the slave cyl let go on our Accord beater...doing the swap was easy, but bleeding it that night was IMPOSSIBLE...the next day I ran over to HF, got one of the vacuum bleeders and literally took me 5 mins tops to get it bled perfectly...some of the best money I've ever spent at HF.

I bought one of those too, thinking it was a pressure bleeder setup. got it home and was really disappointed, but decided to try it anyway. It actually worked really well, 100x better than a mityvac as the vacuum is constant, even if the bleeder or hose is sucking a little air, it still pulls the fluid through right quick. Was surprised at how well it worked and decided to keep it and it's on my HF recommend list now...the bottle of fluid is handy but only works on certain styles of MC caps, but no biggy...
 
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ChevyEFI

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I could see where a 3-way ratcheting option would pull in buyers who are very used to ratcheting wrenches these days.
 

CobraRed

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I could see where a 3-way ratcheting option would pull in buyers who are very used to ratcheting wrenches these days.

I like this idea if it doesnt add a lot of bulk. I know some bleeders that are pretty close to the caliper body. The 3-way style can add a good amount of footprint around the bleeder.

Probably add another $10-12 to it tho, rite?
 

404

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There's a rubber seal on the inside of the wrench that is shaped for a bleeder ****** and sort of snaps onto the bleeder.
GqzWI5E.jpg


The wrench can also be lifted off the hex drive portion into this free collar area so that you can use multiple swings of the wrench on the bleeders without changing the seal
rjVkzXU.jpg


Both the sealing socket and the wrench are 12-point to minimize the amount of space needed to work the wrench
8MqAcSU.jpg


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Chris
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image.php


That is very very clever and cunning... avoids the whole issue of removing the original bleeders to put in the check valve ones. Well done! Congrats to whoever thought of it.
 

TXBDan

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Jul 13, 2015
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MA
I'm a "track enthusiast" and do around ten brake bleeds a year on the track car. I prefer the Motive Power Bleeder to pressurize the master cylinder leaving you free to bleed the brakes. This way you can monitor the air coming out, check for leaks, etc.

Automating the caliper end while requiring me to pump the brakes doesn't provide as much useful information.

Anything that permanently installs in the calipers and adds complexity is a nonstarter. I don't know of any track guys using speed bleeders.
 

Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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That is very very clever and cunning... avoids the whole issue of removing the original bleeders to put in the check valve ones. Well done! Congrats to whoever thought of it.

Thanks! We agree.

I'm a "track enthusiast" and do around ten brake bleeds a year on the track car. I prefer the Motive Power Bleeder to pressurize the master cylinder leaving you free to bleed the brakes. This way you can monitor the air coming out, check for leaks, etc.

Automating the caliper end while requiring me to pump the brakes doesn't provide as much useful information.

Anything that permanently installs in the calipers and adds complexity is a nonstarter. I don't know of any track guys using speed bleeders.

Around half of the guys I race with now in HPDE and previously in NASA AI and TT run speed bleeders. I personally don't because I've broken two of them before :willy_nil

And I totally understand your preference when it comes to bleeding, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I will say these have been in the hands of 1 race team and a couple people with dedicated track cars across the country for a few months now and I've heard positive feedback thus far.

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ChevyEFI

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No. LOL.

Actually I am a fan of pressure bleeding. Not vaccuum. So I like seeing a tool usable for the superior bleeding method.

I am also a fan of 6 point in smaller sizes like this, in case prod-dev is, in fact, listening. :)
 
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Australia
No. LOL.

Actually I am a fan of pressure bleeding. Not vaccuum. So I like seeing a tool usable for the superior bleeding method.

I am also a fan of 6 point in smaller sizes like this, in case prod-dev is, in fact, listening. :)

I agree with the 6 point part. The soft material that a lot of bleeders are made of can deform very easily. There is a reason that you don't see many 12 point flare wrenches.

The fact that a lot of bleed ******* have never been moved in their life can mean that the torque required to loosen them is often far above any reasonable tightening torque for a bolt of their size.
 
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Buckgnarly

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VT
I agree with the 6 point part. The soft material that a lot of bleeders are made of can deform very easily. There is a reason that you don't see many 12 point flare wrenches.

The fact that a lot of bleed ******* have never been moved in their life can mean that the torque required to loosen them is often far above any reasonable tightening torque for a bolt of their size.

I thought about that too, but figure I can break open the bleeder with a 6pt box end, then use this tool. We get A LOT of rusted up bleeders here in the salt belt.
 

CobraRed

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May 30, 2014
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Hmm, i've always avoided open ended and used 12 point box end and 12 point deep sockets on bleeders before - never figured that a 6-point box end would be the best route. Maybe I've been lucky.
 
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