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New AWF Polyurea Floor Coating by Garageflooring LLC

bedn0009

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
All,

I've been working with Justin on getting set up to try out this new coating he's released.

I used a local garage flooring company to do the surface prep - they charged $0.30/foot to do a "brush blast" and then grind. I thought that was a great deal.

This is my first time doing this, so I have some questions as to materials and also process. I've also emailed this to Justin asking his input, but figured it might make sense to post here as well.

1. Vacuum up all remaining dust before starting

2. Combine all 4 gallons of the "color" , then divide into 25% proportions for estimating how much to use

3. "Cut in" edges with color where I can't roll (Suggestions on type of brush?)

4. Divide the color flake into 25% proportions (Suggestions on type of roller? 3/8" nap?)

5. Roll out 25% of the garage with the color coating

6. Wearing spike shoes, sprinkle flake as I get done rolling

7. Repeat steps 4-6 for the rest of the garage

8. Let dry - (How will I know how long?)

9. Mix anti-skid into the clear (Please confirm how much to add/gallon)

10. "Cut in" edges with clear where I can't roll

11. Roll out 25% of the garage with the clear coating

12. Let dry

Anything out of order or missing?

Thanks
 
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bdamico

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May 8, 2012
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2,303
All,


I used a local garage flooring company to do the surface prep - they charged $0.30/foot to do a "brush blast" and then grind. I thought that was a great deal.



Thanks

That's an awesome deal, especially considering diy isn't free
 

Shea

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,871
Location
California
All,

I've been working with Justin on getting set up to try out this new coating he's released.

I used a local garage flooring company to do the surface prep - they charged $0.30/foot to do a "brush blast" and then grind. I thought that was a great deal.

This is my first time doing this, so I have some questions as to materials and also process. I've also emailed this to Justin asking his input, but figured it might make sense to post here as well.

1. Vacuum up all remaining dust before starting

2. Combine all 4 gallons of the "color" , then divide into 25% proportions for estimating how much to use

3. "Cut in" edges with color where I can't roll (Suggestions on type of brush?)

4. Divide the color flake into 25% proportions (Suggestions on type of roller? 3/8" nap?)

5. Roll out 25% of the garage with the color coating

6. Wearing spike shoes, sprinkle flake as I get done rolling

7. Repeat steps 4-6 for the rest of the garage

8. Let dry - (How will I know how long?)

9. Mix anti-skid into the clear (Please confirm how much to add/gallon)

10. "Cut in" edges with clear where I can't roll

11. Roll out 25% of the garage with the clear coating

12. Let dry

Anything out of order or missing?

Thanks

Your basic plan looks good. A 3" chip brush works great at cutting in edges. They are cheap and disposable. Buy a few of them. Your best bet, however, is to let Justin get to you with the answers to most of your questions. This is a newer product that he will have all the answers to. Particularly roller choice and recoat times. Providing suggestions for some of these questions is going to be based on educated "guessing" and is probably not the best idea. ;)
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
How was this modified as I am preparing to do mine soon?

[Floor was prepped using a combination of grinding and shot blasting due to some very specific on site locations.

1. Vacuum up all remaining dust before starting. If necessary perform a solvent wipe.

2. Combine all 4 gallons of the "color" , then divide into 25% proportions for estimating how much to use.

3. "Cut in" edges with color where I can't roll (Suggestions on type of brush?)

4. Divide the color flake into 25% proportions (Suggestions on type of roller? 3/8" nap?) This project was done with a 3/8th roller, as was the batch I used. the folks that formulate it have an official suggestion of 3/16"

5. Roll out 25% of the garage with the color coating

6. Wearing spike shoes, sprinkle flake as I get done rolling

*** You can work in smaller sections and avoid using the spike shoes. Have a second person coming behind you, but standing on uncoated concrete broadcasting flake ***

7. Repeat steps 4-6 for the rest of the garage

8. Let dry - (How will I know how long?) This project was 6 hours. Technically speaking it can be 2-6 hours. 18 Max. I tend to stick to the higher side of that number and often even longer. You should be able to touch the floor with a gloved hand without sticking to it or having color transfer.

*** BEFORE you recoat the floor, you need to knock down and remove loosely adhered flake or flake that has stuck on an angle or not at all. The floor attachment of a shop vac works well. Press and scrape. If there is a concern of color transfer from the vac, cover the edges in contact with the floor with duct tape.

9. Mix anti-skid into the clear. There is a range here. .5 - 1# per gallon. I tend to use 1/2 of the container we ship out for each gallon

10. "Cut in" edges with clear where I can't roll

11. Roll out 25% of the garage with the clear coating. Repeat. How you break that down is up to you. Clear is sometimes hard to see because its clear :) This is especially true with a lot of light flooding from above.

12. Let dry
 
OP
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bedn0009

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
All,

I did my floor with this new Polyurea product yesterday. Approx 900 sq ft took about 5 hours (between the 2 coats) to do. I thought the process was actually very easy (I'd never done any type of garage floor before) and when I do my other garage in the spring I wouldn't hesitate for a second to use this again. Here are my pics (before/during/after) from yesterday. I can't imagine there is a process/product that is easier to use.


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Shea

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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
2,871
Location
California
Great job! It looks like a pro did it. These 1-part polyurea flooring products are going to become a popular DIY option to epoxy. Other than floor prep, the process is similar to regular paint and relieves a lot of the anxiety people have about applying coatings.
 
OP
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bedn0009

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
Thank you.

I should share a bit more detail:

  • Assuming it proves durable, I'd use this again in a heartbeat. I find it difficult to believe that other products could be easier to use
  • I had it lightly shotblasted, then a light grind
  • The base color coat (gray) took 3 hours for 850 sq ft
  • The top clear coat took 90 minutes for 850 sq feet
  • I used 7 lbs flake
  • I used 24 oz of the anti skid
  • Dry time between coats was 6 hours
  • I got 240 sq ft/gallon for the base and 280 sq ft/gallon for the top coat
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
All,

I did my floor with this new Polyurea product yesterday. Approx 900 sq ft took about 5 hours (between the 2 coats) to do. I thought the process was actually very easy (I'd never done any type of garage floor before) and when I do my other garage in the spring I wouldn't hesitate for a second to use this again. Here are my pics (before/during/after) from yesterday. I can't imagine there is a process/product that is easier to use.


17%20%281%29.jpg

17%20%282%29.jpg

17%20%283%29.jpg

17%20%285%29.jpg

17%20%286%29.jpg

17%20%287%29.jpg

17%20%288%29.jpg

17%20%289%29.jpg

17%20%2810%29.jpg

17%20%2811%29.jpg

17%20%2815%29.jpg
17%20%2812%29.jpg

17%20%2813%29.jpg
17%20%2814%29.jpg
17%20%2816%29.jpg

Thank you.

I should share a bit more detail:

  • Assuming it proves durable, I'd use this again in a heartbeat. I find it difficult to believe that other products could be easier to use
  • I had it lightly shotblasted, then a light grind
  • The base color coat (gray) took 3 hours for 850 sq ft
  • The top clear coat took 90 minutes for 850 sq feet
  • I used 7 lbs flake
  • I used 24 oz of the anti skid
  • Dry time between coats was 6 hours
  • I got 240 sq ft/gallon for the base and 280 sq ft/gallon for the top coat

The floor looks AMAZING. You guys did a great job. The time-lapse are awesome. We will play with them today and get them online. Thanks for all the great pics and images!
 

dnwong

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Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
104
Location
Aldie, VA
I noticed that you did portions based on the cut lines in the concrete. I don't have any lines. If I do a 25% at a time, will I see an edge with I stopped and resumed coating?
 
OP
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bedn0009

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
I'm no expert, but I'd say that if you move quickly on adjacent sections (20 mins or so) you'll still have a "wet edge" and be fine. At no point did I ever have a worry about whether or not I could coat right up to a previously covered section.
 

Crusarius

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Joined
Aug 22, 2013
Messages
383
Location
Upstate NY
Is it possible to go over this flooring again? I do a lot of steel fabrication. Needless to say I have not found a floor that hold up to weld spatter. If I spend a lot of time and money on a floor it be nice to be able to recoat it after it starts to look bad. I would not use the color chips cause it makes it to hard to find parts you drop.

I am guessing since it has the clear on top recoating is probably not going to work unless the clear is removed?
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Is it possible to go over this flooring again? I do a lot of steel fabrication. Needless to say I have not found a floor that hold up to weld spatter. If I spend a lot of time and money on a floor it be nice to be able to recoat it after it starts to look bad. I would not use the color chips cause it makes it to hard to find parts you drop.

I am guessing since it has the clear on top recoating is probably not going to work unless the clear is removed?

If just the clear is damaged, you can lightly sand and solvent wipe it and recoat with more clear. If the floor is damaged down to the concrete you would have to do a patch and that is a little tougher to get it to look right.

You could consider doing an extra coat of clear for some added protection, but when it comes to welding, your best bet is to protect the floor or do a penetrating sealer
 

Artgarcia

New member
Joined
Apr 24, 2012
Messages
1
Hi bedn0009! THis is my first post in about 4 years of membership and I'm happy to use it to say CONGRATULATIONS! It simple looks amazing! Hope to do something similar with my office floor.
 
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epg0

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Joined
Oct 10, 2016
Messages
46
What's the best way to clean up Polyurea?

How do you clean the brushes, paint tray, yourself, and dispose of it ?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
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bedn0009

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Mar 1, 2014
Messages
309
Location
Hudson, Wisconsin U.S.A.
I used roller pan liners - they were about $3... the rollers are total throw away - I even had to throw the frames away. Use disposable gloves as well - it's hard to get off skin
 

kaiadam

New member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Messages
4
What's the best way to clean up Polyurea?

How do you clean the brushes, paint tray, yourself, and dispose of it ?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I was able to reuse the roller frames, buckets, and gloves.

The thing about the polyurea is that it doesn't stick to smooth surfaces. If you leave it in a bucket overnight, you can peel it off like a sticker.

Like this:

ko8eZ0g.jpg
 
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chrispitude

Active member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
36
Wow, this product sounds great. How does it hold up to hot tires, road salt, dropped tools, heavy items slid across, etc., compared to the 100% solids epoxies that most of us are familiar with?
 

Garage Flooring

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Messages
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Grand Junction, CO
It holds up to typical use very well. Slam a metal tool box, or drag something heavy and abrasive onto any floor and you are going to have potential for issues.

It's thinner than a good epoxy but holds up well. I would opt for epoxy on a heavily damaged.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

dnwong

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Joined
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Messages
104
Location
Aldie, VA
Reviving a old thread. So, after almost 2 years, I managed to leave some light scratches on the floor. Had small rocks on floor and dragged a box over them. What is the best way to get rid of them?
 

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Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Reviving a old thread. So, after almost 2 years, I managed to leave some light scratches on the floor. Had small rocks on floor and dragged a box over them. What is the best way to get rid of them?

I cant tell for sure from the photo but it would appear that maybe it did not go through the clear? If that is the case, order a quart of clear, lightly scuff it, wipe it with denatured alcohol and apply to the affected area.

If it did go all the way through, the process is similar, but there are two coats involved and it requires a little more 'finesse'
 

dnwong

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
104
Location
Aldie, VA
I cant tell for sure from the photo but it would appear that maybe it did not go through the clear? If that is the case, order a quart of clear, lightly scuff it, wipe it with denatured alcohol and apply to the affected area.

If it did go all the way through, the process is similar, but there are two coats involved and it requires a little more 'finesse'

Thanks, I still have some clear leftover. Can I do a spot repair?
 

seanbuc

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Oct 5, 2020
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Location
CA
Could be wrong but that look more like a medium/heavy flake broadcast to me.
 

Garage Flooring

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Grand Junction, CO
Full flake, full broadcast , broadcast to rejection all mean you don’t see the base coat at all.

Here is a link to a full broadcast project

https://www.garageflooringllc.com/2018/10/23/rons-full-broadcast-polyurea-project/

Random broadcast means you see flake and base coat. Our random broadcast kits include 1lb/100 sqft

Lots of projects here https://www.garageflooringllc.com/category/garage-floor-coatings/polyurea-coating-projects-reviews/

Most of the newer posts have great detail about what was used


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