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New Barn Type Build

holdenwaca

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Crestwood, KY
Hello, everyone. My name is Will. I am out in the Louisville, KY, area. My wife has three horses. I have a donkey. I need to build a barn. Thanks to reading about all of the nice builds on this site as well as a few others, I built a 15 x 18 pole shed last year to store my small tractor and some other implements. It's a simple design; 4/12 pitch pre-made trusses, 6 x 6 posts, sliding doors on the gable ends, metal roof, and LP Smartside panel siding. Turned out nice and it turned into a family project. While not the building type, my nearly 70 year old father with a bum hip provided the extra hands and muscle needed. I owe him big time.
This new project is a couple orders of magnitude larger. I will probably need to hire a crew to frame and sub out some of the work, mainly the roof and foundation work.
To give some back story to why I've arrived at the design I am at now, it's driven by my land and clown of a neighbor. I have 10 acres. I have road access on both ends. I have a 1.3 acre pond that feeds a watering trough that was installed to provide water to cattle that had been on the land 30 years ago. My previously mentioned shed is located on the end of my property near a cul-de-sac which is near a neighbor. My wife also had a riding arena built. She is a therapeutic riding instructor for special needs children and adults. The neighbor really doesn't like it and I had to fight him and his lawyer in a zoning board hearing. I'm not the bragging type, but he lost. Soundly; however, I don't like being the one to keep jabbing at people and ultimately would like to be friends with the guy (my wife feels otherwise) so I am trying to locate the barn as farm from him as possible.
This presents a lot of problems and will add significantly to the cost. I am OK with that. The location I would like to use is on a hill. I like that aspect in that it is the highest point on the property. You can see everything. There's no danger of flooding if the dam gives way or the overflow drain fails and there is a spill over. All that said, I will have to do some hill shaving and inset a portion of the barn into the hill.
I've read everything I could find on the stick frame vs pole frame debate. Each has their pros and cons. I was initially thinking pole is the way to go, but since I want wood or engineered wood siding as opposed to metal, I thought I would look at a stick frame with a foundation. I don't want a concrete floor for the stalls or aisle. Only the tack room and wash bay will have concrete. I want a full length loft, 12-foot inside height for ventilation and horse safety, and 12 x 12 stalls.
I started with a 36 x 36 building. If I go with a pole structure, I can still get pretty close to having a true 12 x 12 stall. As I began drawing a stick frame sitting on 8" x 8"x 16" blocks, I realized I had to bump the building up to a 40 x 40 to get the area I wanted. I've drawn it up with attic trusses on 16" OC. If I go with a pole structure, I think I will go with 24" OC trusses. I am calling some truss guys tomorrow to get prices on trusses so I can decide whether I go with those or with rafters and floor joists.
Other specs are an 8/12 pitch roof for lots of loft headroom and ventilation as well as some finishing to have a place to stay when the weather is bad. We live 15 minutes away from the land and I don't like my wife having to drive in the snow and ice. If a pole structure, I'm thinking 8" x 8" posts. I was planning 12' pole spacing, but I don't know if that's going to cut it. I was going to use triple 2 x 12's on top of the center posts and two 2 x 12's with the post sandwiched in between for the truss/joist carriers. What do you guys think? If I go stick, it will 2 x 6 throughout. I will still use posts and beams on the interior for truss/floor joists supports as well as a structure to mount the stall panels.
I have these models drawn in SketchUp if anyone wants to have a look or wants to use them to improve upon. Any and all opinions are welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Will
 

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kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
First of all,
Are you asking an appearance or a structural question?

There is no law that says pole construction has to be “tin shed” in looks.
Any of the major builders can show examples of other than steel siding.

And any of them can advise you on construction questions.
 

bobadame

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
1,124
If you go with a Monitor style barn you can use rafters instead of trusses.
 
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holdenwaca

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Crestwood, KY
kbs2244 & bobadame,

Thanks for taking the time to respond! I initially was going with a monitor style barn. I am simply trying to find a way to maximize loft area for the given building footprint.

I have both structural and appearance questions. I am doing these sketches to submit to an engineer and ultimately a builder to show exactly what I want, but I am trying to learn a thing or two in the process. Do you think 8 x 8 posts and double 2 x 12's can carry the roof and loft loads? On 12' post spacing? If I go with 6' spacing and 8 x 8 posts in 16' lengths (bury 4' and have 12' height) at $230 apiece, I am getting into stick framing prices and wanted to explore that option. I like the idea of not having a post in the ground. I've looked at Perma Columns, and that is an option. I've also looked at using LVL's for the beams down the center posts to support the joists. Would it be better to put the beam on top of the posts or notch the posts?
I know that pole structures don't have to have the tin look. I built my pole shed with 15 x 18 dimensions to use metal siding. After my HOA signed off on the design and I had my poles in the ground, they came back and told me they didn't want metal siding. So I had to modify the building and add framing between the posts to attach the 4 x 8 Smartside panels. I would like to use them again to match...an HOA requirement. I am designing with that in mind from the start.

Aesthetically, do you think the 8/12 pitch and 1' overhang looks good? I can't decide if the overhang needs to be bigger.

Will
 

lbperry

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
399
Location
North AL
1' overhang not enough. At least 2'. For aesthetic and practical reason. Get the runoff farther away from the building.
Good Luck
 
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bobadame

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Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
1,124
For the loft you have to build it strong enough for the maximum possible load. When I built mine that number was 40 pounds per square foot (I think). I used steel posts and I beams. The engineer specified 3" diameter steel posts on 20' centers. I paid $500. for that stupid advise but mainly for the stamp that the county required. I went with 6x6 steel columns instead.

Here's a link to my build thread. Not suggesting that you change your design, just trying to show how I did it. It hasn't fallen down or blown away yet.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50779&highlight=los+manitos
 
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holdenwaca

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Crestwood, KY
bobadame,

That's great info. I don't intend to store hay in the loft, so I think the 40 psf would be OK. Around here, 90 psf seems to be the norm if hay is stored. I guess I need to decide if I want to do build it that way in the event I sell the property.
I need to get a stamped plan as well. Your building looks great! What did you use for siding? I will definitely look into steel supports. I'll see how they compare to LVL's.

lbperry,

I agree. It needs bigger overhangs. Thanks for weighing in.

Will
 

Chris4x4Gill2

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
485
Location
North Alabama
I would make it where you could drive all the way through the barn and unload a hay wagon without having to back in. Even if you are using a hay loft, I like to be able to pull all the way through if needed.

I would also add a lean to style roof on the side with the stall doors.
 
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holdenwaca

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Crestwood, KY
Hello, everyone. The barn design continues to evolve. I'm working with a truss designer to get my trusses done. I've added dormers to the design to greatly increase area. I'm having trouble trying to decide how to integrate the dormers into the roof system. Take a look at the pictures and let me know if you've got any ideas. On the advice of the truss designer, I've made full walls instead of cheek walls to carry the dormer roof loads down to the floor instead of the trusses. The dormer walls will sit on LVL beams that go from the side walls to the main beams that run the length of the barn. Anyone see a problem with doing that? I've included some pictures of that whole assembly. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Will
 

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