Hello all, I have a three year old house I had built, the mason was the best in my area, and charged me accordingly..lol, the house has a poured wall basement, so all the bricks on the house are fine, the garage though is another story, it has no basement walls under it, it has a poured footer with courses of block, well just this spring I noticed cracking above the garage windows, just up high not low to the ground, I am wondering what I may do to help it not worsen, or is it normal for a three year old house to crack, in some areas it cracked the brick in half, sorry the photos are sideways my wife took the pics and sent them to me like that and all the software on this computer won't let me rotate them.
new brickwork cracking
- Thread starter ryan77
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I just spoke to my GC he said the footer has re-bar and was on undisturbed soil(no fill), 2ft wide, I don't know how tall, he was surprised to hear it was cracking. he's an older guy who is known for building quality homes like they did years ago before the McMansion term was used ( the quick built, corners cut, homes that look big and expensive but are cheaply slapped together). it has 10 in thick stamped poured basement walls Form-a-drain on both sides of the footers, steel I-beams under the floor joists, 2x6 walls, hurricane straps on the trusses, extra bracing, extra re-bar in the concrete, full blocked chimneys, I had all top notch stuff done, I had hoped it would be rock solid for life.
Chris705
Well-known member
I'd suggest bringing the builder back and ask him to quote on repairing the cracked brick. That will allow him to see the situation, (tough to speculate but I think the cracks have been there for some time as I think they are the result of shrinkage of the mortar beds) and recommend a repair....he will probably cut you a break on cost and the repair shouldn't be all that involved. They are fairly protected from the elements by the roof, if you choose to do nothing. The lintels look to be straight.....
ptgarcia
Well-known member
^ this. It seems nobody on this forum uses geotechs/soils engineers. Just because the soil is undisturbed native doesn't mean it's suitable to build on without some work.
ilovevocs
Well-known member
^ Right. Most contractors in my area are convinced that compacting in lifts isn't required and that driving a skid steer or loader over the pile a few times makes it properly compacted.
Cracked sidewalks seem to be the norm after a few years.
The B.S. that goes on in our residential market blows my mind.
Its not about best practice, its about how fast and how cheap.
Had a bricky that told me he hates bay windows because they always leak. Well come to find out this guy has never installed a through wall flashing and weep holes above one.
He bricked my neighbors and his bay window leaks like crazy. They just keep spraying it with waterproofing in lieu of accepting that it was improperly detailed. Seriously though, I just keep telling them brick isn't waterproof guys..... This is a flashing issue!!
Cracked sidewalks seem to be the norm after a few years.
The B.S. that goes on in our residential market blows my mind.
Its not about best practice, its about how fast and how cheap.
Had a bricky that told me he hates bay windows because they always leak. Well come to find out this guy has never installed a through wall flashing and weep holes above one.
He bricked my neighbors and his bay window leaks like crazy. They just keep spraying it with waterproofing in lieu of accepting that it was improperly detailed. Seriously though, I just keep telling them brick isn't waterproof guys..... This is a flashing issue!!
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
Chris are you inferring that the OP/homeowner should fix this on his own nickel? The house is ONLY three years old. In Indiana, how long does a general contractor provide the homeowner a warranty via state law? In Wisconsin ... I think its either five or ten years.
Looks like a beautiful home. I'm always amazed when we leave Wisconsin and get into Indiana. Seems like 8 or 9 out every ten homes is brick! I've always wondered "why".
Its sad to read the various trades don't understand what they should be doing ... soil tests, fill in lifts vs driving the backhoe across, properly flashing a window or door opening so it DOESN'T LEAK!
Watching This Old House or Mike Holmes on Homes it seems like many of the problems they find are the result of shortcutting or simply NOT knowing what to do. My contractor tells me that he makes good money fixing butcher jobs that saved only a few hours and a few hundred dollars.
dutchgray
Well-known member
I don't see any major problems, just keep an eye on it, if they continue to open up then something is moving, it all looks like shrinkage/ settlement cracks, brick work isn't very flexible so cracks easily, over windows is common.
10 posts before someone actually gets it, and isn't just adding fuel to the "fear fire".
It's nothing more than shrinkage cracking, which generally shows up as step cracking at weak spots, like windows or corners. The only predictable way to avoid it is to install control joints (like you often see on commercial buildings) on walls longer than about 20'. Obviously, that would look far worse than minor step cracks.
The only thing that would concern me at all from the pictures is the cracked brick(s). I'd be a little concerned that the mortar that was used was too strong, and might be stronger than the brick.
Chris705
Well-known member
**** - not sure on warranty time frame. (I thought standard warranty was 1 year?) My angle was bring the contractor back who the OP states is a quality builder. I see no reason to doubt the quality. As I said could be the result of mortar shrinking. Bringing back the builder let's the OP ask about repair costs . But my hope would be the builder offers to repair to keep his good quality reputation. Replacing the cracked brick shouldn't be a difficult repair for the mason.
pstnbly
Well-known member
That's differential settling, not the brick masons problem. It shouldn't go much farther unless there are compaction issues under the garage footing. The step area in the footings can be problematic.
GC wants to look at it tomorrow, two weeks ago it was just above one window and 1/16 crack in the brick, now its above two windows and the crack is at 1/8. as long as it stops I ok with it, I understand brick work cracks a little.
dutchgray
Well-known member
Whats the weather like at the moment? every thing opens up here if its been drier than usual.
I should say virtually everything here is masonry built, even our crappy stick built estate homes have a brick skin round them, so I have worked with a lot of brick over the years, even though im not a mason.
I should say virtually everything here is masonry built, even our crappy stick built estate homes have a brick skin round them, so I have worked with a lot of brick over the years, even though im not a mason.
AndyCBR
Well-known member
I don't have a crystal ball.
But if you don't give the brick a place to expand and contract with temperature changes, they are going to make their own.
If there is no plan for control joints and none are installed this can be what you get.
There could also be an underlying foundation issue but if no signs of excessive settlement appear elsewhere I would think this is an expansion/contraction issue.
Also, the lintel units above the window are probably expanding/contracting with temperature at a different rate versus the brick.
On a commercial job some type of control joint would have been placed above the window on both sides roughly every 25-30 feet (or possibly every window), filled with backer rod and caulked to allow for the expansion and contraction.
A solid brick wall 100' feet long can change dimension something like 3/8" from below freezing to heat of summer. The expansion/contraction has to happen somewhere.
But if you don't give the brick a place to expand and contract with temperature changes, they are going to make their own.
If there is no plan for control joints and none are installed this can be what you get.
There could also be an underlying foundation issue but if no signs of excessive settlement appear elsewhere I would think this is an expansion/contraction issue.
Also, the lintel units above the window are probably expanding/contracting with temperature at a different rate versus the brick.
On a commercial job some type of control joint would have been placed above the window on both sides roughly every 25-30 feet (or possibly every window), filled with backer rod and caulked to allow for the expansion and contraction.
A solid brick wall 100' feet long can change dimension something like 3/8" from below freezing to heat of summer. The expansion/contraction has to happen somewhere.
This is altogether WAY TOO TRUE.
6768rogues
Banned
Hence the reason that I always have extra brick left on any brick job and try to have the owner keep it. Try to match that existing brick in a few years and you will see what I mean.
wssix99
Well-known member
We see this all the time in the City with lintel and header failures. (The whole city burned down, which blessed us with a lot of brick.)
If the cracks don't go down under the window, that should alleviate any foundation settlement or foundation concerns.
If the cracks don't radiate outward at 45 degree angles, then that would rule out other lateral movement of the walls.
Cracks through the bricks indicate a solid masonry façade, but would indicate some sort of structural problem/weakness in the wall that needs to be addressed. (I don't think it's shrinkage, either. This document shows what shrinkage cracks would typically look like on page 4: http://www.gobrick.com/portals/25/docs/technical notes/tn18a.pdf)
If the cracks don't go down under the window, that should alleviate any foundation settlement or foundation concerns.
If the cracks don't radiate outward at 45 degree angles, then that would rule out other lateral movement of the walls.
Cracks through the bricks indicate a solid masonry façade, but would indicate some sort of structural problem/weakness in the wall that needs to be addressed. (I don't think it's shrinkage, either. This document shows what shrinkage cracks would typically look like on page 4: http://www.gobrick.com/portals/25/docs/technical notes/tn18a.pdf)
Hilltopmasonry
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That's a very minor settlement crack. It actually has nothing to do with the bricklayer or mason contractor because when we lay bricks we are only as good as the foundation that our work is sitting on. If you are out of the warranty period Personally I would wait a couple more years then have somebody come back and grind the cracks and tuckpoint it after it fully settles. It usually takes about seven years for disturbed soil to resettle
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^This
ard
Well-known member
If OP is seeing issues now, today, in 2017, I would not allow the issue to go un-noted for more years
While these things seem crystal clear in terms of timelines, a few more years down the road and that stand-up, only builds the best, won't touch a McMansion contractor may not 'remember' this issue existed only 3 years after building when you reach out later.
See what he says, but if the 'plan' involves waiting- I would say "tell you what, I am fine with that- but I am going to send you a letter outlining the issue and our mutual agreement to address this in the future".
While these things seem crystal clear in terms of timelines, a few more years down the road and that stand-up, only builds the best, won't touch a McMansion contractor may not 'remember' this issue existed only 3 years after building when you reach out later.
See what he says, but if the 'plan' involves waiting- I would say "tell you what, I am fine with that- but I am going to send you a letter outlining the issue and our mutual agreement to address this in the future".
wssix99
Well-known member
If it's a settlement crack, how do you explain the lack of cracking below the window and the cracking in the above the center of the window. (And not radiating out from a corner?) Do you have access to any technical resources that show how this happens?
ie: http://www.ashireporter.org/homeinspection/articles/basement-cracks-and-leaks/1130
Hilltopmasonry
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If you consider 35 personal years of experience as a mason contractor and a third generation bricklayer (contractor) going back to 1945 in Chicago technical resources then yea i have plenty of resources of how this happens. I have repaired hundreds of similar cracks in buildings that look exactly like that
Settlement crack, happens all the time.
They crack in the classic step pattern around windows and doors because that is the path of least resistance. The drywall does the same thing inside. That is why you never have a seam of drywall at a door or window opening.
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willymakeit
Well-known member
I will second what Andy says. No control or expansion joints. They will move at weakest point.
It's amazing how much buildings move in expansion and contraction. Horizontal and vertical.
It's amazing how much buildings move in expansion and contraction. Horizontal and vertical.
wssix99
Well-known member
This is the internet, I could just as easily say that I have 65 years of personal experience laying brick. I could also say that I'm trained in forensic analysis of masonry cracks to find structural deficiencies, but that's all just hearsay on a web forum and it still wouldn't necessarily make me a good resource for information.
I never knew that this information could be passed along in the womb.
In your experience, do you have access to a reference that you can share from an authoritative resource, trade association, etc. that would illustrate this as shrinkage cracking?
I (quickly) posted a link I found from a home inspection association that indicates shrinkage cracks express in a different way. Are they wrong?
Drywall seams are a weak point and they never go at the corners. They are indicated above doors and windows at the mid-section. Since the cracks the OP shows are at the corners and in the middle of some windows, this would undermine the point you are trying to make with the analogy.
It would probably help a lot more if the OP could post a full spread of the wall and outline (with paint) where all the cracks are. With the pictures given, we can just see that there are some cracks in the middle of one window and at the corner of another window.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"It usually takes about seven years for disturbed soil to resettle"
Good excuse for not doing it correct in the first place.
Good excuse for not doing it correct in the first place.
Hilltopmasonry
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This is the internet, I could just as easily say that I have 65 years of personal experience laying brick. I could also say that I'm trained in forensic analysis of masonry cracks to find structural deficiencies, but that's all just hearsay on a web forum and it still wouldn't necessarily make me a good resource for information.
So do you need a copy of my birth certificate to prove my age?
I never knew that this information could be passed along in the womb.
I don't know maybe somebody with a family history in the trades that the op is asking about would be a good resource of info.
I don't know how to verify my history though, would you like to see a picture of me in the 1970s as a four-year-old playing with my tonka truck in the sand pile next to the mortar mixer as my dads laborer is mixing mortar?
In your experience, do you have access to a reference that you can share from an authoritative resource, trade association, etc. that would illustrate this as shrinkage cracking?
That's not a shrinkage crack
I (quickly) posted a link I found from a home inspection association that indicates shrinkage cracks express in a different way. Are they wrong?
Drywall seams are a weak point and they never go at the corners. They are indicated above doors and windows at the mid-section. Since the cracks the OP shows are at the corners and in the middle of some windows, this would undermine the point you are trying to make with the analogy.
Not at all the week points are always in the upper and lower corners and that's exactly where the crack is in the pictures
It would probably help a lot more if the OP could post a full spread of the wall and outline (with paint) where all the cracks are. With the pictures given, we can just see that there are some cracks in the middle of one window and at the corner of another window.
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SALIV8
Well-known member
I am no bricky and have pretty much limited to zero experience with brickwork.
That being said, I do own a large brick building. When all of my original lentils were needing replacement, cracks exactly like this like this appeared from the steel lentils rusting and expanding. All of my new lentils that are now installed do not look at all like the OPs. Mine now have a rubber sheathing that goes over the stainless steel leading drip edge, and also many weep ropes that hang down a few inches scattered across the lentil. It was a cool process to watch the company that installed all of these.
Ryan77s lentils appear to only be caulked or painted, but I cant really tell in the pics. They do not look at all like the new lentils I had installed about 3 years ago at appear to not include the same materials at all. My steel lentils are painted on the exposed section under the drip edge, rubber sheathing, and rope, however.
Can you professionals agree with this or am I not seeing the lentils properly? Could this be an issue?
That being said, I do own a large brick building. When all of my original lentils were needing replacement, cracks exactly like this like this appeared from the steel lentils rusting and expanding. All of my new lentils that are now installed do not look at all like the OPs. Mine now have a rubber sheathing that goes over the stainless steel leading drip edge, and also many weep ropes that hang down a few inches scattered across the lentil. It was a cool process to watch the company that installed all of these.
Ryan77s lentils appear to only be caulked or painted, but I cant really tell in the pics. They do not look at all like the new lentils I had installed about 3 years ago at appear to not include the same materials at all. My steel lentils are painted on the exposed section under the drip edge, rubber sheathing, and rope, however.
Can you professionals agree with this or am I not seeing the lentils properly? Could this be an issue?
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Hilltopmasonry
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Yes, I have replaced steel lentils that have lifted the entire building by as much as 2 inches. When steel corrodes it expands. I would guess 3 to 4 times its original size
I doubt that the OP's problem is expanding steel from corrosion since it is only a couple years old and it looks like the steel is pretty well protected from rain with the garage overhang
Hey OP when you get a chance walk the foundation near the windows and see if you have any cracks.
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I will look again tonight at the foundation, on the inside I do notice cracks along the mortar joint on the top course of block at the bottom, the top row is all I can see, the crack is a straight line along the block in two locations, I haven't noticed on the outside wall yet, you are right the lintels are bare steel with a painted aluminum sleeve that matches the soffit, should I expect this at the other windows and doors with this practice? thank you!
SALIV8
Well-known member
I also had the painted aluminum sleeve when I had the new windows installed about 12 years ago. My bricky said that it traps the moisture and accelerates the rusting. When the guys replaced the lentils they did not entrap them with anything anymore, if that makes sense. I will try to post a pic if I can find one of my lentils. It was an expensive process to have all the lentils replaced. Im not sure yours will experience exactly what mine did, as you have most that seem prtotected from the overhangs, which I do not have. But the exposed lentils I would say yes these cracks will be the same in my experience.