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New Build and so excited

neutral

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
50
So i just finished writing my whole spiel and the computer crapped out on me when i tried to submit :( so here goes again



I plan on building a 24x32 shop/garage and thought i might either get some advice or reiterate what i think to be good or who knows perhaps inspire someone to try something of there own.

it will have 9ft walls 2x6 6 inch raised edge on the concrete. 6x12 fully vaulted parallel chord trusses. ( so sweet) 18 ft gable end door, 9 ft other end door(roll up probably) 36" mandoor and creme de la creme a full height 2 post hoist. yay

so anyway what i was wondering was have any of you configured your garage like this. the idea is that i will have the hoist towards the back of the shop allowing for normal parking at the front. enough room for a crewcab 4x4 6.5 ft box so about 21ft from the door. allowing me to have the hoist accessable by simply driving down the middle and on the hoist. If i had a scanner here i would add a doodle. i will moving my electrical service from my house ( overhead) to a mast on the garage with a double lug socket and then running the power to the house underground.


i noticed that alot of the garage pads in the forum have really large foundations or thickened edge before you poor the actual floor. Why? i live in winnipeg and our code says that for anything over 753sqft i have to have an engineer stamp the pad drawing and that i have to have a 12in thickened edge and 6 in concrete 30 mpa with 10mm rebar or 6x6 wire. I'll be using bar and having the raised edge tied in with stirrups. is this code where you guys live or is it just a different style of building???


anyway i want o have infloor heat cuz it gets cold as a mofo up here and i was wondering what you guys use for a good efficient yet cost effective way of doing it.


thanks for your input guys and i'm pumped about having updates. currently i just tore down my carport and i have to build a shed to store garage stuff before i can tear down that god awfull piece of **** that has been the baine of my existense since i bought the house but thats another storie all together. ;)
 
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NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,107
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Welcome to GJ. Make sure to start a thread when break ground on your new shop.


When you log in, you may want to click "remember me". I believe this website will time out after a certain period of time. You can just log out when you're done.
 

Beaumont67

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
526
Location
St. Thomas, Ontario
Hi there neutral, here in SW Ontario the 12-13" deep and wide gutter sloped back into the floor is typical for a floating slab here.
- my 24x30 went up in early '90, and no visible floor cracking or heaving

I went with 25mpa concrete, 6 inches thick out to the 12-13" outside edge, (20 years ago).
- 30 ton of "chips&duct" bull-meg compacted
- normal rebar and heavy wire mesh, sitting onto of 1" foam insulation panels (prevents sweating)
- diamond blade saw cut, after concrete polished smooth
Worked out perfect, for many years to come.

------------------------------------------------
Beaumont { :>)) www.petperfectexpress.com
1965 Malibu S/S, 1966 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont Custom, 1967 Beaumont Custom original paint, 1967 Beaumont 396-350HP Sport Deluxe M21-411's - SOLD 1970 Judge
 
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OP
N

neutral

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
50
Thanks guys,

I'm hoping to build the shed this week. I got a pile of 4x4x8 oak posts for free so i've decided to try my hand at a timberframe build. I'm going to build it in such a way that i can see the exposed posts and supports from the outside. unfortunatly i dont have the tools or the time to do a proper mortiss and tenen frame so i'm going to use lag bolts and plug the holes with dowels. a little cheating.

Have any of you done much timber work before and what did you use for sidding. I would like to either do board and batton or better yet have horizontal lap sidding. problem is i'm cheap ;) so i want to find a cheap solution. went to the local re-store(habitat) and they have vinyl for 4 bucks per 12 foot length but i kind of don't want vinyl and they have nice steel but the wife doesn't like red. ;( also 4 bucks a length so about .33 cents a sq ft.

any suggestions?

the other thing is that if i use vinyl or steel i have to sheeth the hole thing with osb first wich brings the total to about 66 cents a foot after tax.

cant wait. i"ll be sure to post up some progress pics as it happens
 
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