New build, need some input

[scottinwi]

Hey guys, I'm new to the site and need some input. In a couple months when the ground thaws, I'm starting my garage build. It'll will be 24w by 30d. I was planning on a 16 foot door placed 2 feet from the left side, and then the service door 2 feet from the right side of that door.

I can go as high as 10' walls by code and was planning to do so, but now I wonder if there's any good reason to. I won't have a car lift in there, but I know it wont add that much expense and the extra height might be nice. I will insulate and drywall the whole thing, including the ceiling. I'm also building it myself (used to be a rough carpenter) so that will cut down on costs and allow me to spend on some extras.

I was originally planning on running nat gas and using an infared tube heater, but now I've been hearing good things about in slab PEX tubing. Anyone have any experience with this stuff? I live in Wisconsin, so it definetely will go below freezing. The garage is detached and I don't need it heated constantly, just when I want to go and use it.

I'll use it mainly for shop space to work on motorcycles. My wife will also park her Accord coupe on the left side of the garage.

I'd appreciate any tips or "I wish I would have done this" scenarios.

Thanks fellas.

 

[PurdueSD]

I think you are on the right track with the 10' ceiling. Definately think about at least a 8' hight overhead door. 7' doors ****!

Think about going with some attic storrage trusses if you can make them work. You will need at least a 6.5/ 12 pitch though over the 30' depth. Its one of my favorite parts of my build so far and it didnt cost a ton more to do.

Good luck to ya!

 

[rsanter]

depending on the cost it adds you may want to concider several points.

you may want to add a lift later. the person you sell to may have a higher value to it if he could.

you can install taller shelving for greater storage

you can hang storage shelving from the ceiling for greater storage

you can hang fans from the ceiling for air circulation during the summer without them hanging down in the way

bob

 

[scottinwi]

Thanks guys, good input already. I can't use 6 pitch trusses, that'll put me over the city's maximum garage height. I could if I went to 9 foot walls, but I think I'd rather have the 10 feet ceilings.

 

[badhst]

Scott,

My shop was built with 10' side walls. Good choice, and I used 9' garage doors (good clearance). As for heating, I have three buddies that did the floor heat and they love but it is fairly expensive to run constantly (125.00 - 150.00 month extra on electric bill) and we're located in central Illinois. I'm getting ready to install a 150,000 btu hanging heater in my shop ($950.00 @ Menards, Beacon-Morris brand). Again, I've got two neighbors with these type of heaters and they will heat a shop when you want heat or can set the thremostat @ 55 degrees constantly and crank it up when-ever and their bills are about a 2/3 to 1/2 as much less than floor heat. Just something to think about !!

Jim

 

[1320stang]

Welcome Scott,

As far as heat goes, I would tend to think that how you use the garage you'd be better off not running the radiant floor heating. It would take a while to heat the slab up to get the garage to a comfortable temp. I don't know how much extra it costs, but you might just consider running the tubing in the floor in case your future needs change. I think Jim has the right idea.

 

[Mr.N]

I live in Wisconsin, so it definetely will go below freezing. .

I know an old Carpenter that build a garage in Duluth, MN with 10 or 11 foot high ceilings, for working on vehicles. He said it was one of the worst things he ever did. The high ceilings are a must for a lift, but here in the north they just let the heat rise.
He has since built another garage and went with 8' high ceilings, and is much happier. Also he heats with a wood stove, I could only image the waste if you used a gas heater on a high ceiling garage.

 

[5wndwcpe]

A fourteen foot high ceiling might cost you in terms of heat, but I can't imagine ten foot vs. eight would make that much difference. As far as lighting goes, you'll be thankful for the extra headroom. Ceiling fans will help circulate the air and the added height can only help in that department. Myself, I'd install the PEX tubing even if you don't plan on using it in the near future. Install the tallest overhead door you can get away with as even though you may not have a particular use for it, a future owner might have a camper or boat that would require it. I know it would be a selling point for me.

 

[Cave Man]

I have built a 900 sf garage with vaulted ceilings. The perimeter walls are 9' high and the ceiling height in the center is 11'-6". I went with a PTAC unit which is a wall heat pump/air conditioner (like a hotel unit). When the outside temp gets below 20 degrees it runs pretty constant to keep inside around 65. The advantages are that it heats up pretty quickly and the heat pump uses much less energy than standard electric heat. I will be giving it a good test this weekend, it is supposed to get down into the low single digits for the next couple of days.

Last summer I didn't have the walls completely insulated and sheathed and the air conditioner could still keep inside in low 70's when it was 95-100 outside.

The cost of the unit was around $850.

I would be leary of how long it would take to heat up with the radiant heat.

 

[aerobb]

For me the decision for Radiant heat vs on demand heat was whether I would store anything in the building that couldn't stand freezing. I'm going with a wood shop in the loft of my barn and between stains, paint, and other materials I decided to go with radiant heat to keep a low, above freezing temp throughout the winter. If the garage stays around 50ºF thru the dead of winter I'll be happy.

 

[Cave Man]

I had the same concerns with storing un-freezables.

With the PTAC unit you get freeze protection. Any time that the interior temp drops to 40 degrees it automatically turns on.

 

[Kevin54]

I think you are on the right track with the 10' ceiling. Definately think about at least a 8' hight overhead door. 7' doors ****!

That would be my thought also. There has on a few occasions a 7' door has kept me from pulling something into the garage. Also if you ever did any painting on something like a truck, 8' ceiling is kind of a ******* height. Not saying that you will be painting but 8' just seems to be an awkward height. As far as heat rise, just put a ceiling fan or two up there and move the heat down. If I had it to do over again, mine would be 10' minimum.

Kevin

 

[popper]

I built a 24x28 with 10 ft sidewalls and storage trusses. I love the storage that it gives me. I used a hanging gas heater, 45,000 btu from Menards and it works great. I leave it at 55 and when I go out there I kick it up to 63 and the extra on our bill is hardly noticable. I have two ceiling fans that I can run to help keep the air moving also. Did I mention that the fans also help with the air conditioner in the summer. I think its important to lay out your floor plan on a piece of graph paper. It gives you a good idea of how much space can be taken up quickly. Use measurements of you toolbox, air compressor, bench, anything that will take up floor space and lay it out on the paper. This will help you to lay out your window placements and electrical outlets. Also don't short yourself on the number of outlets or amperage to the garage. Figure in the amount of power to run your air compressor, welder, etc. Things like cable tv lines and phone lines should also be considered. You want to talk about resale value watch a man's eyes light up when you tell him the garage is heated, has air conditioning, phone and cable tv. You can always put a funnel through the wall. Popper

 

[mt_spiffy]

I am a ceiling fan expert and that's how I found this site in a google search. I have fixed up a garage or two myself, but forgive me if initially I only talk about ceiling fans

Regardless of your ceiling height, fans will help immensely with heat circulation and recovery, as well as summer cooling. If you use quality fans installed effectively (i.e. enough fans per square footage, etc) you can negate the majority of heating difference with a higher ceiling. You will need to run them constantly during the heating season.

I recommend using industrial type ceiling fans, they are designed for heat recovery, withstand dust and the elements better, and are generally better quality for comparative prices. The model I recommend is the Envirofan Gold Line. I have plenty more information if you are interested.

 

[Mike of the North]

One of the things I would change on my garage, is I would have put in two single car doors instead of the one double door, I also would have allowed for more room so I could have a work bench next to the car, and room between the cars.

 

[bharvey]

Don't discount the extra wall height you may gain from the stem wall. I planned on 9' walls on a stem wall that was raised 6" from the floor height (9.5' planned). What I'm ending up with is a finished floor height that sits 2.5' below the top of the stem wall (11.5' actual)
bkh

 

[6768rogues]

I would go with the 10 foot ceilings if that is the legal maximum. I would also use scissor trusses to get extra height. You never know what you might work on. With an 8 foot ceiling you can't even stand up a gutter downspout or a 2x4 longer than 8 feet. Whenever working on something, you will constantly be bumping the ceiling, lights, fans, etc. Use good ceiling fans, as mentioned, and the heat difference will be slight. I have a 36 x 48 with a 14 foot ceiling, and I use fans and a 100,000 BTU Reznor heater, in western NY. It will maintain temperature regardless of weather, and will gain in temp if I push up the thermostat.

 

[bharvey]

For the heat, I'd use an infared heater like the Roberts Gordon Caribe garage heater. The benefit is instant heat. Door opens, wind blows sub zero air in, door closes and it's instantly toasty warm. You can leave it off and have instant heat when you need it.
bkh