Currently I'm in the process of securing some land to build a new home and 1500sq ft shop. I've been shopping around to compare prices and difference services between the metal building seller. My current question is about insulating the shop which will be 30x50x12. I plan to install a HVAC system sometime in the future. I'm looking at ways to save some $$ of the expense by insulating it myself. A lot of them use the standard double bubble type with a foil backing which from my understanding is basically just a vapor barrier. So I was planning to add insulation on top of that in the form or BATT or Foam Board but I wasn't sure how to secure it if I don't put drywall or something else up to cover it. Ideas for with or without covering it? Secondly one place wants to charge $4500 for 2in fiberglass batt insulation which seem expensive to me especially since that really isn't much insulation protection. From what I understand they don't use the double bubble first just the batt. Is spray foam an option with the vapor barrier installed first? I haven't researched the expense yet for spray foam. Also what are you guys using to seal/finish the concrete floors to protect them from stains and not being slippery after coating? I've read abit about the insulation on here but there is a lot of information to search through and I haven't seen this answer yet.
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New Build Questions
- Thread starter Magna86
- Start date
Marctrees
Well-known member
Foil insulation only has value in high solar gain areas, Google study it.
In our area of E TX, Got bids from 6 contractors- open cell foam 5" thick was bid at $1.10 - $1.40 / square foot.
We are going w the $1.10 guy after talking to and seeing local jobs.
He runs 3 trucks/ crews and in biz locally for years.
If you spray foam it needs to directly to the steel, NO layer of ANYTHING in between.
In your area, a "heating" climate, IF you want vapor barrier it goes on the inside of building side of your insul, NOT outside.
Lastly, current thinking is ( being debated) if you do the foam spray to NOT add any VB to ANYWHERE. in the geo location you are in.
If you continue to study you will find "everyone" that did foam insul is very happy they chose it, over FB batts or whatever.
Marc
In our area of E TX, Got bids from 6 contractors- open cell foam 5" thick was bid at $1.10 - $1.40 / square foot.
We are going w the $1.10 guy after talking to and seeing local jobs.
He runs 3 trucks/ crews and in biz locally for years.
If you spray foam it needs to directly to the steel, NO layer of ANYTHING in between.
In your area, a "heating" climate, IF you want vapor barrier it goes on the inside of building side of your insul, NOT outside.
Lastly, current thinking is ( being debated) if you do the foam spray to NOT add any VB to ANYWHERE. in the geo location you are in.
If you continue to study you will find "everyone" that did foam insul is very happy they chose it, over FB batts or whatever.
Marc
Last edited:
pmiranda
Well-known member
If you spray foam it needs to directly to the steel, NO layer of ANYTHING in between.
Why is that?
66Caprice
Well-known member
Why is that?
The foam is the vapor barrier.
kd3pc
Well-known member
insulating a metal building DIY after the fact that it is built is difficult. Most insulation in the metal building is a big blanket that will run from the ground up over the peak and back to the ground on the other side. Then the metal goes on.
You should make sure now, that the metal will support drywall or OSB or what ever sheathing you want to use, as it is much better to prepare for that.
In our part of the world make sure you have ground water handled and that the concrete is above grade. My metal building is damp on the best days, wet many times and the floor even worse, but part of that was the concrete guys mistake...poured the door pads lower than the surrounding floor, so water runs in.
Definitely want the foam sprayed directly on the metal for a multitude of reasons.
I have the bubble wrap and in this area it performs poorly if at all. Especially where they used similar stuff on the big doors. Most of the door insulation has fallen off.
If I were to do it again, I would stick build.
You should make sure now, that the metal will support drywall or OSB or what ever sheathing you want to use, as it is much better to prepare for that.
In our part of the world make sure you have ground water handled and that the concrete is above grade. My metal building is damp on the best days, wet many times and the floor even worse, but part of that was the concrete guys mistake...poured the door pads lower than the surrounding floor, so water runs in.
Definitely want the foam sprayed directly on the metal for a multitude of reasons.
I have the bubble wrap and in this area it performs poorly if at all. Especially where they used similar stuff on the big doors. Most of the door insulation has fallen off.
If I were to do it again, I would stick build.
readhead
Well-known member
What kind of metal building? Tube steel or red iron? If you go with FG insulation it is always cheaper to install when the building is erected than after. I would strongly urge you not to use spray foam.
nadogail
Well-known member
IMHO, any insulation is better than no insulation.
Based on my admittedly limited experience, my personal opinion of spray foam is that it seems to be pretty good if correctly applied and protected after application.
I guarantee that my advice is worth exactly what I am paid for it and refunds will be cheerfully given to any unsatisfied clients.
Based on my admittedly limited experience, my personal opinion of spray foam is that it seems to be pretty good if correctly applied and protected after application.
I guarantee that my advice is worth exactly what I am paid for it and refunds will be cheerfully given to any unsatisfied clients.
Marctrees
Well-known member
Why is that?
So it has something to adhere to properly and also so condensation cannot form between foam and metal.
Not my opinion... look into it.
Marc
Ok looks like I've narrowed it down to two companies and will be building without the insulation. Instead if I will spend the extra 3-4k to add a lean to the length of the building for future enclosure and more outdoor space if needed. Will be calling a few local guys for estimates of spray foam and still considering doing traditional insulation. I've having them reinforce the concrete in the back of the shop all the way across the slab so I have option of where to place the future lift. Also confirmed they use a 4mil plastic barrier under the slap when its poured. I spoke with them about the frame building able to support drywall or other board covering and said no issues. Just have use the right screws to go in to the 2.5"x2" square framing. Now to figure out how I want to get the plumbing taps there and if I want to run a separate power line and meter to the shop. Or if I want to tap off of the house panel.
Ok I was finally able to close on my 5 acres to build my house and shop. The shop will be a 30x50x12 with a 10' lean too down one side. I will have 6 windows to allow airflow, one personal entry door and 1 10x10 door on the front side. Concrete is 4" fiber mess with rebar in footers and also reinforcing a 5' area across the slab for future two post lift install. Concrete in that area will be 8" thick. I'm holding off on insulation and hope to be able to get it done before next winter. The company doing the work just finished a building in my area so I plan to go take a look at their work. I will be running a separate 200amp service to the garage for power. Working the details for getting the septic and water hookups run for placement before concrete. Timeline now thanks to Covid is hoping to break ground on the house come Thanksgiving. I hope to build the garage about 2 months before the house is done so the concrete can cure before I seal/coat it.