New Build starting soon- Wanting Opinions

[JDCrae]

Morning all. I am in the final planing stages before ordering everything, So i thought it would good to post up the plans, and have people give suggestions etc.

Building size will be 16' x 36' with 8' ceiling height. Walls will be 2x4, 16OC, trusses are wood engineered trusses, 24"OC. Building will eventually be insulated and conditioned but not for at least a year.

Wood construction with skid style foundation so I can have it transported if we ever sell the house.

Walls will be 2x4 standard framed walls, floor will be 2x8 PT joists and supported by 6x6 PT timbers atop a 6inch tamped stone base, framed by 6x6 timbers, 1ft larger than the building.

Tin roofing, T-111 siding, nothing crazy there.

Electrical- Running 240V 100A service to the building via underground conduit. Electricians recommended #4 Aluminum THHX wire for the service. Also planning on running #8 Aluminum 30A circuit back into the main panel from the building. This circuit is for down the road when we get a portable generator to power the basics of the house. Will allow us to safely power those circuits, but not have to have the generator right next to the house etc. We will install the proper interlock of course. Will be running a separate conduit 1 foot above the main line for data cables. Also strongly considering running a 3rd conduit with a jet line for future usage. Conduit is cheap so it seems like a good idea.

Any thoughts or concerns? Like to get independent opinions before I make final calls.

Only question I had was what people would recommend for the subpanel in the building. This is a woodworking shop so there will be some larger tools, but nothing that draws anything insane. No 220 tools at this time, but want to make sure I have that ability. Also plan to do a mini split down the road and those typically require 220 as well.

Thanks all!

 

[Chris4x4Gill2]

I would look to go with 10ft height if possible. Would give you more vertical storage.

I just ran electric and comms for mine this week. I used #1 aluminum for a 100amp 240 box in 2" conduit and it was a struggle to get thar size wire to make the bends. We did it though. I used a 1" conduit for comms. We ran 3 Cat5 cables and one RG11 Coax. I added another pull string as well, but I doubt I could get much else through there.

I had the same idea on the generator. I decided not to run a second set of cables though so I have not done it yet. I am still undecided on exactly how I want do it. I can run it through the 100 amp panel for limited usage at the other end, or add the plug at the house. My current generator is fairly small and would easily run through the sub panel so that's how I am leaning right now.

 

[cj7jeep81]

Yeah, #4 aluminum isn't enough for 100amps, #1 is correct. And I highly recommend going higher as well. I built my shed 8' high, and should have at a minimum used 8' studs, which would have resulted in a height of 8'4.5" (with bottom plate and double top plate). Being able to stand up an 8' board or piece of sheeting would have been nice. 9 or 10' is better, so you can do that without having to worry so much about hitting lights that normally hang down a few inches.

 

[tjdux]

I do a good bit of wood working and i have 9' amd some change interior ceiling and i actually have broken a light bulb spining an 8 ft 2x4 end to end and it really sucked to have an 8ft fluorescent tube shatter 3 ft above your head and fall down... it certainly was an avoidable accident and i would never reccomend fluorescent lighting with how far along LEDs have come. (I actually changed mine over as the bulbs die)

Anyways as said above having A taller building will help with standing materials up and vertical storage and not having my accident with hitting a light bulb.

In fact theres a thread on here where a guy made an amazing vertical sheet good storage rack. Search for "post reccession rehab shop" its a great thread to read for wood shop inspirations.

A second idea for both wood shop uses and your genorator would be a stub out lean too on one side. Or even a little outhouse to store dust collection, generator, and air compressor. Then run the plumbing for those items back to the main shop so they dont eat up floor space and will keep the noise down in the building while working. Plus you could put t
he sub box for the genny right in there. It may make the skid portion and mobility of the building more difficult though if its a lean too but having a small stand alone out house a few inches away with a "portal" or window to run through could be simple enough as 6 in drain pipe. Could even be ran underground too.

Good luck with it.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703

 

[readhead]

Make sure that the two center skids are about five to six foot on center so a shed hauler can move it in the future. The trailers are pretty standard but it would be a good idea to stop by a local shed lot and measure.

 

[JDCrae]

I would look to go with 10ft height if possible. Would give you more vertical storage.

I just ran electric and comms for mine this week. I used #1 aluminum for a 100amp 240 box in 2" conduit and it was a struggle to get thar size wire to make the bends. We did it though. I used a 1" conduit for comms. We ran 3 Cat5 cables and one RG11 Coax. I added another pull string as well, but I doubt I could get much else through there.

I had the same idea on the generator. I decided not to run a second set of cables though so I have not done it yet. I am still undecided on exactly how I want do it. I can run it through the 100 amp panel for limited usage at the other end, or add the plug at the house. My current generator is fairly small and would easily run through the sub panel so that's how I am leaning right now.

Morning all. I am in the final planing stages before ordering everything, So i thought it would good to post up the plans, and have people give suggestions etc.

Building size will be 16' x 36' with 8' ceiling height. Walls will be 2x4, 16OC, trusses are wood engineered trusses, 24"OC. Building will eventually be insulated and conditioned but not for at least a year.

Wood construction with skid style foundation so I can have it transported if we ever sell the house.

Walls will be 2x4 standard framed walls, floor will be 2x8 PT joists and supported by 6x6 PT timbers atop a 6inch tamped stone base, framed by 6x6 timbers, 1ft larger than the building.

Tin roofing, T-111 siding, nothing crazy there.

Electrical- Running 240V 100A service to the building via underground conduit. Electricians recommended #4 Aluminum THHX wire for the service. Also planning on running #8 Aluminum 30A circuit back into the main panel from the building. This circuit is for down the road when we get a portable generator to power the basics of the house. Will allow us to safely power those circuits, but not have to have the generator right next to the house etc. We will install the proper interlock of course. Will be running a separate conduit 1 foot above the main line for data cables. Also strongly considering running a 3rd conduit with a jet line for future usage. Conduit is cheap so it seems like a good idea.

Any thoughts or concerns? Like to get independent opinions before I make final calls.

Only question I had was what people would recommend for the subpanel in the building. This is a woodworking shop so there will be some larger tools, but nothing that draws anything insane. No 220 tools at this time, but want to make sure I have that ability. Also plan to do a mini split down the road and those typically require 220 as well.

Thanks all!

Yeah, #4 aluminum isn't enough for 100amps, #1 is correct. And I highly recommend going higher as well. I built my shed 8' high, and should have at a minimum used 8' studs, which would have resulted in a height of 8'4.5" (with bottom plate and double top plate). Being able to stand up an 8' board or piece of sheeting would have been nice. 9 or 10' is better, so you can do that without having to worry so much about hitting lights that normally hang down a few inches.

I do a good bit of wood working and i have 9' amd some change interior ceiling and i actually have broken a light bulb spining an 8 ft 2x4 end to end and it really sucked to have an 8ft fluorescent tube shatter 3 ft above your head and fall down... it certainly was an avoidable accident and i would never reccomend fluorescent lighting with how far along LEDs have come. (I actually changed mine over as the bulbs die)

Anyways as said above having A taller building will help with standing materials up and vertical storage and not having my accident with hitting a light bulb.

In fact theres a thread on here where a guy made an amazing vertical sheet good storage rack. Search for "post reccession rehab shop" its a great thread to read for wood shop inspirations.

A second idea for both wood shop uses and your genorator would be a stub out lean too on one side. Or even a little outhouse to store dust collection, generator, and air compressor. Then run the plumbing for those items back to the main shop so they dont eat up floor space and will keep the noise down in the building while working. Plus you could put t
he sub box for the genny right in there. It may make the skid portion and mobility of the building more difficult though if its a lean too but having a small stand alone out house a few inches away with a "portal" or window to run through could be simple enough as 6 in drain pipe. Could even be ran underground too.

Good luck with it.

Signiture; Check out my garage progress http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352703

Make sure that the two center skids are about five to six foot on center so a shed hauler can move it in the future. The trailers are pretty standard but it would be a good idea to stop by a local shed lot and measure.

Thank you for all of the feedback guys. I made some errors in my initial post.

Wall height will be about 8.5 ft. Studs are 8ft themselves plus double top and bottom plates. Considering going taller but have to check. This is a package so I am not sure how much I change without drastically changing the cost.

Aluminum wire for circuit is #2 Aluminum XHHW. All 4 quotes we got for the work listed #2 XHHWwire. Should I be questioning that selection?

It's funny you guys mentioned a possible lean to for the generator. That is the plan long term, and also doing an enclosure for the dust collector. Nice to see I'm talking to a bunch of guys that think like I do.

Readhead - Thank you for the heads up on the skids. The supplier recommended 3 skids, but I wanted to make sure the floor was plenty stout so I asked for a 4th. Will make sure to look into that spacing so we would be good to go if I ever need to move it.

Again, thank you so much for the feedback. Will update as things progess!

 

[73RR]

There should not be a huge up-charge for 10' studs and the additional siding. Its just not that big of change.
As to elec, with aluminum wire it never hurts to ask for one-size larger as a safety margin. #1 is not that much larger, physically, that there should be a big labour up-charge. Check your local supply houses for price difference, #1 vs #2.

 

[JDCrae]

Wanted to post an update. Made some changes regarding the structure and went to grab materials last weekend. Wall height will be 10ft per the suggestion of you guys here, so thanks for that. Ended up costing an additional 300, which is no big deal.

As far as power to the shop, am running 2-2-2-4 from the shop to the house. Where the wire comes out of the ground, it will go into conduit and then terminate in a junction box, where it will change from MHF wire to SER cable. Will run the SER in conduit up into the soffit, into the attic and across the house and back down to the panel.

Ended up making some changes with the main panel as well. Going to be installing a sub panel next to my main panel. From that panel I will send the 100 amps out to the shop. Will also move all circuits I would want to power via the port generator to the subpanel and make my own generator panel. Will be running 6 gauge copper 30 amp circuit from the shop to the the subpanel to power those circuits when the power is out.

In the planning stage for electrical layout and was hoping to get some feedback. So far the plan is

2 circuits for ceiling lights - 2 banks of lights

2 Circuits for Double gang outlets - every 6 feet - with one circuit powering top receptacles and another circuit powering the lower outlets.

Dedicated circuit for table saw

Dedicated circuit for dust collection

Dedicated circuit for future HVAC

Dedicated circuit for outdoor outlets on front of building and exterior lights

Dedicated circuit going to opposite end of building for future use to run power to existing shed for battery chargers and exterior lights. Will terminate for now.

Planning on installing outlets at 52 inches from floor so sheets of plywood can still rest against wall.

Any other tips or suggestions?

 

[Cyberbear]

The cost difference between 100 amp and 225 amp main panel with main disconnect and load panel included isn't too much and offers options later down the road. I prefer copper wire over aluminum every time. You won't be thinking about what it cost when the aluminum connection gives you problems and takes out a part of the sub-panel. Never cut corners in the electrical phase of your build.

 

[matt_i]

I think you should put metal strapping everywhere you can think to put it. Straight strapping and especially X-bracing, like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-25-ft-16-Gauge-Coiled-Strap-CS16-R/100375320

Moving the building is going to be rough on the wood-framed structure, if they pull up the short side on something like a rollback it puts the entire thing in bending. Obviously it could be jacked/cribbed house-moving style to be more gentle on it but I think they still go inside of those houses and nail up diagonals everywhere they can put them.

 

[bjcouche]

Your 2awg aluminum cable is only rated for 90A not 100A when you are connecting it to your main house panel and not directly to your power company meter. You can still use a 100 or 125A panel in your shed, teh 100A breaker acts as your disconnect. You will need a 90A breaker in your house panel. 90A is still way more than you will need for your wood shop.

Brian

 

[lbperry]

Just a suggestion about shop layout. I wish I had room in my shop for a "dirty" cubicle. One where I put all the grinders, buffers, sandblasters, etc; so I don't leave a dirt/dust film over every thing in the shop when I use them. I didn't have room for an area like that so I just have them as close to the door as possible and aim a fan to blow as much as possible of the **** outside.
Good Luck

 

[rburke65]

You will never kick yourself for going to a 10' side wall.