Concrete being poured tomorrow so hopefully start next Thursday building? A couple of concerns I'm having is protecting the base of structure from moisture and bugs. Thinking of going around the base with a roll of tar paper then Tyvec over that? Then down the road I want a eight foot door on interior of the shop for my heated work area and looking at the clear vinly slates that you would see in a meat locker/ cooler area, any thoughts out there? Thanks
New Build
- Thread starter Sturgeon
- Start date
Zeke
Well-known member
I wouldn't want vinyl sheets on my walls. If you like that smooth look there is pre-painted steel. It's thin so you need a backer.
billconner
Well-known member
Sturgeon - when you say base, do you mean bottom of wall sitting on slab? Ideally, that would be at least 8" above grade. I'm building up with minimum two courses of block all around, actually 6 at rear corner where its cut in to slope, to keep sill plate at least 12" above grade.
What would you be wrapping in tarpaper and tyvek? Posts? Stick framing? Wood or metal siding? Can't picture this at all.
When I google clear vinyl slates, I get those ribbon doors - vertical strops of clear plastic hanging over an opening - so not sure what you mean. Any vinyl or other impermeable membrane needs to be part of the thermal envelope around conditioned space. A sketch or picture would help us help you.
What would you be wrapping in tarpaper and tyvek? Posts? Stick framing? Wood or metal siding? Can't picture this at all.
When I google clear vinyl slates, I get those ribbon doors - vertical strops of clear plastic hanging over an opening - so not sure what you mean. Any vinyl or other impermeable membrane needs to be part of the thermal envelope around conditioned space. A sketch or picture would help us help you.
jack stand
Well-known member
The tar paper is fine, and you may be thinking of a frp panel.
It's a textured fiberglass that you glue on your substrate. A little pricey but make a nice washable surface.
There is an extruded vinyl panel available that's working its way into what's been the frp's job such as dairies, kitchens, livestock building ceilings etc. but I believe that for a wall application that you still need a sturdy structure underneath. Painted osb isn't that bad.
It's a textured fiberglass that you glue on your substrate. A little pricey but make a nice washable surface.
There is an extruded vinyl panel available that's working its way into what's been the frp's job such as dairies, kitchens, livestock building ceilings etc. but I believe that for a wall application that you still need a sturdy structure underneath. Painted osb isn't that bad.
duneslider
Well-known member
The vinyl strip curtain is very inexpensive but it does not seal off the areas nearly as well as a real door. If you are just going to heat it occasionally it is probably an acceptable solution but if you plan to heat/cool regularly then I would not recommend it.
Zeke
Well-known member
Ah, I misread. Clear vinyl strips to cordon off a part of the shop. IDK, they seem to work OK in their application. What about 2 rows overlapping?
Building on a slab so minimal clearance from ground, so some where I saw a gray material that looked like it was going to extend below grade and stapled to sheeting / plywood. So if I can't find suitable material, tar paper would work. Just caught my eye and seems like a good idea? The heavy vinyl slats passage way is just a idea for a larger passage and no threshold, plus the larger doors wouldn't be a nuisance.
billconner
Well-known member
I don't think tar paper alone will be very long lived. If you have a wood sill on a slab edge that is only an inch or two above grade, use pressure treated for sill and I'd used pressure treated ply sheathing for first foot or two, and some non wood siding.
jack stand
Well-known member
You and me both
dcg9381
Well-known member
I assume this is a stick build. On my home,I installed sill gaskets on all of the base plates... You can find them here:
After that, before we sheet the framing, I go through and add a very unhealthy dose of pesticide. I've also seen houses that have tubes setup inside of the framing so that you can add pesticide from the outside of the home...
Course, if you insulate with spay foam, that's a good way to close things up too.
After that, before we sheet the framing, I go through and add a very unhealthy dose of pesticide. I've also seen houses that have tubes setup inside of the framing so that you can add pesticide from the outside of the home...
Course, if you insulate with spay foam, that's a good way to close things up too.
D c g great information, great prep work for the intruders, concerned about those and the wind. Sheet rocking all the lid and work shop area for now and will definitely prep for bugs. Half to look closer at the tape idea? Thanks
duneslider
Well-known member
Typically, that is how we do them, you can even do triple. However, we typically don't see them between conditioned and unconditioned spaces anymore, or as often. For example, I was just in an ice cream facility and they had them in the freezer between the 0 degree area and the -20 degree area but the door out to the 68 degree area had a high speed automatic door.
We will see them in warehouses that have swamp coolers inside the building and they will use the strip curtain at the dock door. It is better than the door being open all day and keeps the bugs and birds out better too. They aren't tight enough to really control air movement.
Concrete guys are out using there whirly birds write now, was apprehensive with these guys at first, not anymore. Looking really good. Didn't go with L concrete anchors and going to go with drilling mine in. Leaning towards epoxy and 8 5/8" anchors, any thoughts out there? Thanks
duneslider
Well-known member
We use epoxy anchors a whole lot where I work. Never seen one fail an anchor inspection (you have to clean and vacuum every hole) but I have seen wedge anchors fail inspection on occasion. Due to various reasons I have some epoxy anchors as well as titans in a few places in my garage.
Thanks Duneslider, just what I'm thinking. Wedge anchors in green concrete doesn't sound good. I need to find a double door larger than six feet. It's pretty windy here and it's nothing to have a door get away from you, with that said I need a good solid door. Giving up on the freezer slat door idea. Thanks for the imput.
CraigStu
Well-known member
Can you run two layers of block on the slab? That is by far my favorite way to build a garage. Re; the plastic for the man door. YES, do it. We did a 16x22 add-on bay on the side of the existing 2 car garage. We cut two studs out of the original wall for a walk through. I went to the fabric store and bought the heaviest clear plastic they had. Cut it into strips about 12-14 inches wide and hung it at the opening w/ 2 inches of overlap. I figured which way to do the overlap so it was super simple to walk through because I was usually approaching the opening from a certain direction. I cut the length to give just 1/4 inch clearance to the floor. Obviously you don't get a perfect seal but I'd say it was a good 90%. I used a common staple gun to do the initial install and get the overlap direction figured out. Then I went back w/ a 1x2 screwed about every 6 inches tightly over the staples. A small window AC unit, and a propane tank heater, made my little shop perfectly comfortable year around. This worked great for the 5 years we were there.