To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

new build

rgullett83

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
7
Hello guys I have been lurking around for a while and have seen some nice buildings. I am in the process of building my shop, 40'x60'16'h. here are some pics of the progress so far. These are just pics from my phone, as of right now all the metal is on and one overhead door. Just waitin on them to get that finished, and figure out what material I need for my floor heat and turn my concrete guy loose:bounce:

Riley
 

Attachments

  • 2010-09-08_19-27-21_185_Oblong.jpg
    2010-09-08_19-27-21_185_Oblong.jpg
    146.9 KB · Views: 35
  • 2010-09-06_18-18-39_62.jpg
    2010-09-06_18-18-39_62.jpg
    150.8 KB · Views: 28
  • 2010-09-06_18-26-03_543.jpg
    2010-09-06_18-26-03_543.jpg
    153.4 KB · Views: 27
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
R

rgullett83

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
7
guess I should have asked will 1/2" pex be sufficient? how many loops? what size boiler or water heater? Insulation under slab around and around perimeter? Probably gonna run propane for fuel source for now will switch to natural gas when I build a new house close to the shop.
 

jklingel

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Frbnks, AK
First; you need a heat loss analysis to determine how many btu's are going "out the door". That will determine boiler/heater size. 1/2" pex will likely be fine, but you may need many, many loops, anywhere from 12" OC to 24" OC (maybe closer at the edges). Don't run 1/2" pex over about 350'/loop; some gurus say 500 and use a larger pump. Heat loss analysis is critical. j
 

jklingel

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Frbnks, AK
oh, yeah. if you have any coldness at all, absolutely run XPS under the slab (minimum of 2") and make sure the edge of the slab has at least that much, too, and down the foundation wall 2-4'. If it is real cold where you are, go out horizontally from the footer at least 2' w/ 2" of XPS, too.
 
OP
R

rgullett83

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
7
forgive my ignorance what is XPS? I had planned on using foil backed double bubble for insulation under the slab. I also have a qoute from a local company using a munchkin contender boiler (80000 btu and 95% efficient), and running 5/8" tubing, does anybody think that will be ok?
 
OP
R

rgullett83

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
7
Oh yeah I live in southeast illinois, and last year was an exceptionally cold winter, but typically not too bad. I plan on finishing the inside with tin, and blowing insulation for the ceiling, and batt insulation for the side walls.
 

jklingel

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Frbnks, AK
XPS is extruded polystyrene; blue or pink board. The less dense "styrofoam" stuff is EPS, expanded poly. XPS is generally preferred below grade, as it is water proof. That said, PassivHaus houses use as much as 16" of EPS under slabs. I would never use EPS underground. On your bubble-stuff under the slab, I humbly suggest that you reconsider that. It is regarded as pure garbage on a few science-related building forums I read. I would refer you to places like greenbuildingadvisor.com, buildingscience.com, healthyheating.com, etc, to see what they think of it. I can't speak for the PEX size, but I hope you've done at least a rough heat loss analysis. There are several available on-line, and all you have to do is plug in your specs; sizes of things, R-values, heating degree days (probably around 8,000 in Illinois), etc. No engineering required. The ones I've used on-line, IMO, are close enough and you likely don't need a pro to run one. Everybody uses the same equation, and this is for a garage.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
R

rgullett83

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
7
ok thanks, is there a good source for insulation on line? I hate to be cheap, but I think I am goin to be overbudget on this project and looking for anyway I can save money, but do the things the proper way.
 

jklingel

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Frbnks, AK
Wait a sec here. You want to build AND save money? Man, you're way ahead of ME if you figure out how to do that. Budget? Don't you just build till you're broke, then peck away at it for the next 15-20 yrs? While you are looking on line for insulation, look for something other than fiberglass batts. It really is pretty poor stuff. Dense pack cellulose in the walls, or look for cellulose, rock/mineral wool, or cotton (treated w/ borates) batts. More money, yes, but you are already going over budget, so why not just break the bank? The good news is, you'll recover more money in heat savings w/ those items. Good luck; that is a huge job you are taking upon yourself.
 
OP
R

rgullett83

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
7
thanks for opinions, and yah I am starting to realize how big a project this is, luckily I have plenty of friends willing to help.
 
OP
R

rgullett83

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
7
got the other door hung finally, 2 of the panels for this door were damaged so thats what took a while. They are currently installing the last gable vent and the shell is done :bounce: Now for insulation, tubes, concrete, wiring, plumbing, etcc..
 

Attachments

  • 2010-09-30_16-32-28_576_Robinson.jpg
    2010-09-30_16-32-28_576_Robinson.jpg
    150.3 KB · Views: 11

jklingel

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Frbnks, AK
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Not a SPAMMER I HOPE!

Strange statement/question to throw into the middle of a heated floor/boiler question.

Charles

Yes, and quite the attractive little cutie there, too; an added attention getter, or just The Main Squeeze?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom