New cold storage next to shop - running electric?

[effie_53]

Ok, I've read some other threads and did some searches.

I'm putting up a 40' x 48' cold storage and horse shelter next to my 40' x 40' shop. Both are "pole barns" but only the 40' x 40' is heated and insulated. There is 8' between that eventually I want to enclose for a tack room and additional storage.

I'm having the new building put up but they are only doing the building itself. The concrete will come much later and I'm not planning to hire any electrician for things I can possibly do myself.

One thread has a ton of good info in it: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201375&showall=1

I have a 100 amp box in my shop. That box is about 50' away from the new building. My interior walls in my shop give me access yet to run wire inside but I have to go over the overhead doors on that wall and then figure out where I want to run it to give power to the new building. All I really need is some lights and a few outlets in my new building (one for a water tank heater). I don't need any 220-240v or special things that I can think of now. Any inputs on the minimum on what I need to do to achieve my needs?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

By code, you are allowed to run only one supply to a building, so you will need to run a single cable to your new building and install a subpanel to distribute it. It would not make any sense to run 120V, you should run at least, a small 240v circuit. Anything beyond a 2½ gal tank point of use water heater will most likely need 240v. Sure, they do make instant water heaters for 120v and some larger tank units, but they draw a ton of amps due to the lower voltage.

Charles

 

[effie_53]

Eventually, I want to enclose the 8' area between the two buildings as I stated. In my mind anyway, it would be all one building at that point. I can see where a subpanel may be the way to go but is it really absolutely necessary?

As for the water tank heater. Currently I run an extension cord to it from my shop. The tank is 70 gallon Rubbermaid stock tank with a $25 heater in the drain plug. It's supposed to have a thermostat to shut it off when it's not needed. I've only had it for less than a month so I don't know how much power it uses.

 

[2ManyProjects]

Eventually, I want to enclose the 8' area between the two buildings as I stated. In my mind anyway, it would be all one building at that point. I can see where a subpanel may be the way to go but is it really absolutely necessary?

Until and unless you actually DO make it into one contiguous structure, yes.

As for the water tank heater. Currently I run an extension cord to it from my shop. The tank is 70 gallon Rubbermaid stock tank with a $25 heater in the drain plug. It's supposed to have a thermostat to shut it off when it's not needed. I've only had it for less than a month so I don't know how much power it uses.

I gather that this is NOT a conventional "water heater" (as in, something designed to keep X-gallons of domestic water heated to 120°-130°F, ready to provide a hot bath or whatever); but rather, this is some sort of homebrew arrangement intended only to keep the water from freezing? In which case, its electrical requirements may indeed be considerably lower than what Charles was assuming. But until you really KNOW what those electrical requirements are (such as by checking the documentation which came with the heater?), there is no point in guessing at it.

 

[NakeDiesel]

He is talking about a stock tank heater that you can buy at most ag related stores for keeping the water for animals from freezing during the winter. They are 120vac and various on the amp draws depending on the model. I've used them on extension cords all over the place at my old house when I had a bunch of horses. I know they are less than 15 amps draw.

 

[Aceman]

I wouldn't recommend this, but if you want bare minimum, I'd run 12-3 UF cable and direct bury it between buildings. A 2 pole 20 amp breaker in your main panel to feed it. Install a 2 pole switch where the cable enters the pole barn to disconnect power. One circuit for lights and one for receps. Branch out from your 2 pole switch box to all your devices, no subpanel required.

 

[Sureshot]

What are you using for a water supply? If burying a waterline you could put in some direct bury cable and a small sub and be away.
I think my line to the barn is 12 gauge and we run lights and heaters. For the horse area a 12v transformer with photoeye works great. You can use much smaller bulbs so you are not blinded or blacked out coming and going at night. I got mine from a garden light set.

 

[effie_53]

My existing shop has water and a bathroom. In there I have a large sink I can hook a water hose to. So to fill my stock tank for the horses, I run water in a garden hose several times a week. Normally, it doesn't stay cold here in the Black Hills (steadily below freezing for daytime highs) to keep me from continuing that. Worst case, I have to carry water in 5 gallon buckets.

Ideally, I'd like to run water underground to the far side of the new building as well. But that is far lower priority than getting the building up and with a few lights and a couple outlets. I considered trying to run a water line inside the existing building to the new building but would have to use a garden hose from there or do something to keep it from freezing the winter. My shop is heated but I don't run the furnace unless I'm out there working. I do keep heat in the bathroom with an electric baseboard heater - it was there when I bought the place.

 

[2ManyProjects]

I gather that this is NOT a conventional "water heater" ...

He is talking about a stock tank heater that you can buy at most ag related stores for keeping the water for animals from freezing during the winter.

Ahhh... OK, thanks for the explanation. I guess my "City Boy" (well, "Suburbia", if you want to be picky about it) roots are showing.