New Compressor, got a question..

[toyoguy81]

Just bought a 60 gallon Puma PK6560. It was a craigslist find. Some guy had 2 of them, still had plastic on it. Its a rebranded tank with puma pump, It was built by a local air compressor company out of Kansas. My question is about the initial line out of compressor to regulator. For now, I want to get it up and running so I can use it. It has a 1 inch ball valve off the left side. What is the ideal, ECONOMICAL, setup so I can run my air tools. No paint guns or blast cabinets here. Just basic pneaumatic air tools. What do I need to buy and what do you suggest? I know I need a flexible line right off compressor, but how long? Also, for now, I will be using 2, 25 ft 3/8" rubber hoses.. So im assuming id use a 3/8" regulator? Any help would be appreciated, I dont think i need a water seperator nor an oiler. What do you guys suggest? Here is a pic of the compressor...

 

[RECox286]

Before you start to put any real money into your set up, why not

just install a regulator to the outlet valve, and then plug a service

hose into the regulator. Are you sure that you really need a regulator

in the first place ? What is the pressure gage reading when the

motor shuts off ? (100, 120, 170 psi) If it is 120 or less, then you

should be OK to just plug your service hose into the ball valve, like

I did. If the motor shuts down @ above 125, then add a regulator

and adjust it to run NMT 100 psi. plus or minus. Get what ever fittings

you figure you will need at the plumbing shop, or local hardware. What

ever you want to use, galv, black, brass...should do the trick for you.

(do not use plastic "anything", except to pay the bill)

Uncle Bob

 

[koditten]

I have no regulator on my air tool line. They work fine at full pressure. Painting, of course will require regulator.

 

[toyoguy81]

Before you start to put any real money into your set up, why not

just install a regulator to the outlet valve, and then plug a service

hose into the regulator. Are you sure that you really need a regulator

in the first place ? What is the pressure gage reading when the

motor shuts off ? (100, 120, 170 psi) If it is 120 or less, then you

should be OK to just plug your service hose into the ball valve, like

I did. If the motor shuts down @ above 125, then add a regulator

and adjust it to run NMT 100 psi. plus or minus. Get what ever fittings

you figure you will need at the plumbing shop, or local hardware. What

ever you want to use, galv, black, brass...should do the trick for you.

(do not use plastic "anything", except to pay the bill)

Uncle Bob

Uncle Bob, this is exactly what I want to do for now, just plug in a regulator into ball valve, and connect a service hose. All the unit has is a psi gauge toward top of tank. So im assuming its preset at factory to stop at certain psi?? I just need to know what type hose, how long from tank to regulator and what size regulator do i need? Im assuming if i have a 3/8" service hose than I should use a 3/8" regulator/filter??

 

[CNGsaves]

OP . . . doesn't appear you've seen the IR Closeout thread where there are nice Filter/Regulators on the cheap with free shipping. Study the part #'s real close (research on Grainger or Google first) and know what you're buying. For $15 to $25 range you'll get fixed up and could likely get larger 1/2" connection.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197794&highlight=Closeout

Affordable flexible connector from compressor to airline system is hydraulic hose from Tractor Supply for around $25 - - - go with 3 ft long x 3/4" as still cheap and use adapters to change sizes.

A section of black pipe steel or copper ran up the wall and up near ceiling as main line would serve as cooling down section to draw out moisture so you'll have dry air later in airline system. Below is picture of ideal setup where the drops first go UP from the mainline, then down to your tool.

Don't mess with cheap "plastic" air hoses either. Get Goodyear rubber or Flexzilla that will remain flexible even when cold.

 

[ford33]

Are you following the instructions for new compressor start? You will want to check the oil level before start-up and depending upon how long the new compressor sat in storage consider changing the oil.

Here is a link to new small compressor start-up instructions from Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/92/92f94466-7b4a-47ad-9e47-c3a6eab07d64.pdf

Check your owners manual for specific start-up instructions.

 

[dave67fd]

I would just pick up a HF regulator and filter.Their cheap but work well. Reduce down from the 1" ball valve. I believe the filter/reg is 3/8". Your 3/8" airline probably has 1/4" fittings so install a 3/8 x 1/4" quick disconnect after the filter.

Most tools want 90 psi max so running them much higher on a regular basis will minimize their life span. Compressors also can build up quite a bit of moisture which will cause premature failure as well.

 

[e30bradley]

I just use two HF regulators.. My compressor shuts off at about 165psi. First regulator I have set to 100 and the second is set to just a few lbs less. 95ish.. I plug my air hose into that and run all my air tools.

 

[catfish500 mark]

What about the hot, dirty air, water and oil that will eventually destroy your tools?There are tons of videos on utube showing how to setup a compressor.Take the time to watch some of them and always remember, there are two ways of doing things.The right way and the wrong way.

 

[toyoguy81]

OP . . . doesn't appear you've seen the IR Closeout thread where there are nice Filter/Regulators on the cheap with free shipping. Study the part #'s real close (research on Grainger or Google first) and know what you're buying. For $15 to $25 range you'll get fixed up and could likely get larger 1/2" connection.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197794&highlight=Closeout

Affordable flexible connector from compressor to airline system is hydraulic hose from Tractor Supply for around $25 - - - go with 3 ft long x 3/4" as still cheap and use adapters to change sizes.

A section of black pipe steel or copper ran up the wall and up near ceiling as main line would serve as cooling down section to draw out moisture so you'll have dry air later in airline system. Below is picture of ideal setup where the drops first go UP from the mainline, then down to your tool.

Don't mess with cheap "plastic" air hoses either. Get Goodyear rubber or Flexzilla that will remain flexible even when cold.

CNG, YOU FKN ROCK the Ingersoll Rand outlet site is awesome but I am having no luck deciphering the P/N's on the regulators. I went and read through this whole thread and all PDF links on here no not valid, any way you can direct me to a site to decipher part #s???? Ive googled, looked at grainger and all part numbers are no good. I called Ingersoll and they were suppose to email me a catalog, that was yesterday....

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ Rule 1 . . . only NPT thread and NOT the British thread.

Then, Rule 2 decipher the part #'s so you'll know PRESSURE range that the Filter/Regulators operate. Thus, don't buy wrong part and get a low pressure unit by mistake.

I'd look for 1/2" or 3/4" connector as those are less "desired" by general public as people don't want to mess with connector to go down to 3/8". This might be your chance to get good F/R at excellent price as I'm guessing all the popular sizes are sold out.

Study the link above as tools in there to help you decipher.

 

[sberry]

Filters too big don't work well. 3/8 hose uses 1/4 threads. I would bush the valve down, add a 25 ft air hose to a filter/reg and then another hose to the tools or hook on a hose reel. This gets you started, you need only 1 coupler at the tool.

 

[toyoguy81]

*****UPDATE***** Ingersoll finally emailed me their catalog, I studied the part numbers and the only one available is a 3/4" pipe thread NPT with 0-140 psi rating, no gauge w/ a metal relieving bowl w/ sight glass w/ standard manual drain, I have no idea in the differences in the bowls or drains and I guess my thinking on pipe thread has been wrong all along as I thought the regulator's are measured by the outlet size...so if im reading it right, the measurements that are given are the pipe threads measurement, so if its 3/4" NPT pipe thread, what size is that? The ball valve on the side of my compressor is a diameter of 1" which i measured w/ a tape measure..

 

[toyoguy81]

I must be going about this all wrong, sounds like I need to measure pipe thread and not diameter of the fittings if i make any sense to yall???

 

[sberry]

I almost bet money a Puma 60 comes with a 1/2 port.

 

[toyoguy81]

Harbor Freight's 1/2" regulator is only rated to 100 psi??? Seems low??

 

[sberry]

Go to Home Depot or Menards. They have reasonable priced units sized right for you. Menards had some 1/2 and HD had a unit FR I think that was 3/8. This is a simple one, doesn't need the coupling I left on and feeds an out door reel.

 

[CNGsaves]

*****UPDATE***** Ingersoll finally emailed me their catalog, I studied the part numbers and the only one available is a 3/4" pipe thread NPT with 0-140 psi rating, no gauge w/ a metal relieving bowl w/ sight glass w/ standard manual drain, I have no idea in the differences in the bowls or drains and I guess my thinking on pipe thread has been wrong all along as I thought the regulator's are measured by the outlet size...so if im reading it right, the measurements that are given are the pipe threads measurement, so if its 3/4" NPT pipe thread, what size is that? The ball valve on the side of my compressor is a diameter of 1" which i measured w/ a tape measure..

See, in no time you're now the "Part # guru" for IR website !!!

I'd say snag that 3/4" F/R on the cheap and you'll be all set. Yes the 3/4" is talking about the inlet and outlet holes. Purchase whatever brass fittings you need to go up or down in size for other airline connections.

Can you post to the IR Closeout thread that catalog to help other GJer's to learn the deciphering as well ??

 

[ford33]

I have purchased from the IR closeout site and found them to be good. Delivery time was reasonable and pricing is excellent. You get a top quality product at a terrific price.

It is hard to decipher IR's part numbers. I used the Grainger website search function as a translator.

The filter bowls are available in clear polycarbonate or metal. Either is fine but some people prefer the metal bowl over the plastic for durability. There is a sight glass, a tube that runs vertically along the metal bowl, to indicate when the bowl is full of water. No gauge means the product does not come packaged with a pressure gauge. However, there is a port for the gauge which you can use to install your own pressure gauge.

Having a larger inlet on the filter versus the compressor piping is not going to be an issue for you. As mentioned earlier, just get the fittings you need to make it fit.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I had a water separator and regulator installed right on the outlet of the tank ball valve. Eventually the close ****** at the tank began to crack from the weight hanging out in thin air and no support. Then I added a threaded rod and coupling nut and a eye bolt that I opened up into a hook and supported the whole shebang. Then the polycarbonate bowl of the water separator/filter blew out (rated for 150 psi and I was putting 175 psi on it). It was old from the flea market, so no loss. I ended up buying a Norgren filter regulator combo unit from an Ebay seller. Much shorter installation but still on the tank valve so I still have a support rod to hold it up.

Need to run an air system, but too lazy, money to spend, hassles, etc. Its a 'round-to-it item.

The OP's tank probably has ½ pipe thread on the outlet valve, could be 3/4 but not as likely on a 60 gal tank. I would find a regulator/filter combo that has a ½ pipe thread fittings on it and install it straight on the tank valve with a very short ******.

Charles

HERE is one

 

[sberry]

A filter is always a good idea and eventually a regulator is a piece you will want anyway but I read the op and he a]has a good start up plan, 2 hose simple. The main change I would make is would likely have the second after the reg 50 ft. 25 ft to filter and 50 ft to tool. 25 ft runs out fast when trying to get around a car or reach out a door.
In fact if there was a place for OP to splurge a little here it would be on a hose reel.

 

[squarles67]

I found this that helps to decipher the ARO part numbers http://www.pumpsupplyinc.com/wp-content/uploads/ARO-Flo_FRLCatalog.pdf

 

[bpj71]

I just purchased a 20 gallon Dewalt vertical compressor which is a Puma spin off. I did some searches and got many different answers...you guys seem to know your stuff..so, how often do your drain the tank to prevent water/moisture?

I may also deserve a "You ****" cas I got this bad boy for $269

http://www.sears.com/dewalt-20-gallon-vertical-air-compressor/p-00916811000P?adCell=REC_1_0

 

[toyoguy81]

Okay guys..after researching part #'s for the ARO piggyback filter/regulator, ive decided on the ARO P39354-100. According to the part # configuration, this one hasa 0-140 pressure rating with NO GAUGE, does that mean this doesnt have a gauge on front to show you the pressure of the regulator??? I dont want to buy this if this is the case. The one's with a gauge are all sold out. Here is a link below to decipher the part numbers for ARO regulators/filter piggybacks.. Thanks again for any input
http://cdn.valworx.com/downloads/datasheets/aro/2000fr.pdf

 

[sberry]

It means you need to install a gage. Look again at this pic. The cheap deal in the pic from HD worked fine too. I like them due to 3/8 in but 1/4 ports going out.

 

[toyoguy81]

Ok, ive decided on the ARO p9344600vs model. Below is a link and to the right of this link is the configuration chart for piggyback style filter/regulators all series. Be aware most dont come with a gauge
http://cdn.valworx.com/downloads/dat...aro/2000fr.pdf