New compressor..what wire ?

[Vernmotor]

Ok I got to run wire 100 ft out to my shop .all inside from the basement. here are the specs on the compressor.
6 hp 60 gallon tank
208-230 volts
12.35 ACFM@100psi
TYPE-CP
FR-P56
HP-SPL
SF-1.00 PH1
HZ-60
AMP-16.0
TIME-CONT
ENCL odp
FORM-KHH
CODE-C
INSUL CLASS-B
AMB -40DEG -C

I NEED KNOW WHAT SIZE AND TYPE OF WIRE TO BUY Thanks Jamie

update here are some pics see last post

 

[ovilla]

Definitely go as thick as you can for that length of run. Anyway, is 16 AMP the normal operating amperage? If so, you want to find out what the spike amperage is during start up and then put a circuit in place that's at least 20% over that (so it won't be popping the circuit on you).

If it was me, I'd run 6 AWG to a sub panel in the shop. Then you could run say 10 or even 8 AWG to an L6-30 twist lock outlet and connector, that's if you're going to put a plug on the compressor. Otherwise, just hardwire it using 8 AWG to the subpanel.

I know you may not be thinking of a subpanel but considering the fact that you're about to spend an easy $300-$400 on wire, you might as well run it just one time. Plus, you'll be set in case you ever want to wire a 220 line for a lift or welder, or even additional 110 lighting or outlets in the garage. Price the wire and you'll see that running a little thicker is not that much more. The sub panels are also reasonable.

Oh, I'd run 1" or 1 1/4" conduit for this new line and just buy a bunch of 90 degree elbows. It's not worth buying a pipe bender in this size as you'll most likely not need it again for anything. Anyway, this size conduit will make it a heck of a lot easier to pull it through.

Finally, do compare the price of wire at Home Depot and Menards and even check out a few electrical supply shops as I've sometimes found them to be cheaper. An electrical shop may also let you buy a bigger spool and then return the unused portion.

Word of caution - Do measure twice for how much wire you'll need. I installed a 50amp subpanel last year for my hot tub and even though my house is only 50' wide I ended up needing about 96' just to get from my 50amp circuit (in the panel inside the basement) up to the ceiling in the basement, all the way across the house, half way down the wall, and out to the subpanel. I had bought a 100' string and just stapled it along my route in the basement so I knew 100' was going to be what I needed to buy.

 

[Vernmotor]

Definitely go as thick as you can for that length of run. Anyway, is 16 AMP the normal operating amperage? If so, you want to find out what the spike amperage is during start up Not sure how to find this out ?and then put a circuit in place that's at least 20% over that (so it won't be popping on you). If it was me, I'd run 6 AWG to a sub panel in the shop.So run 6awg out to a switch box ? Then you could run say 10 or even 8 AWG to an L6-30 twist lock outletDon't know what this is ? and connector, that's if your going to put a plug on the compressor. Otherwise, just hardwire it using 8 AWG to the subpanel. I know you may not be thinking of a subpanel but considering the fact that you're about to spend an easy $300-$400 on wire, you might as well run it just one time. Plus, you'll be set in case you ever want to wire a 220 line for a lift or welder, or even additional 110 lighting or outlets in the garage. Price the wire and you'll see that running a little thicker is not that much more. The sub panels are also reasonable. Oh, I'd run 1" or 1 1/4" conduitDo I have to or need conduit ? for this new line and just buy a bunch of 90 degree elbows. It's not worth buying a pipe bender in this size as you'll most likely not need it again for anything. Anyway, this size conduit will make it a heck of a lot easier to pull it through. Finally, do compare the price of wire at Home Depot and Menards and even check out a few electrical supply shops as I've sometimes found them to be cheaper.

Thank you Jamie

 

[ovilla]

"Spike Amperage" (that's my term for this)
Anyway, go on the internet and find an operating manual for your model air compressor. It should say what the "nominal" operating amperage range is. If not, call the MFG and ask for tech support and ask them what size circuit you should run that will accommodate the spike in amperage draw during start up.

You'd be running 6 AWG to a subpanel. More than likely running four seperate 6 AWG conductors (two black wires, a white, and a green one) going out to a subpanel (a smaller version of the circuit panel in your basement).

L6-30 twist lock outlet
This is just an outlet, like the ones in your house. However, it will have three prongs in a semi circular fashion. The L6-30 twist lock version allows you to plug in an extension cord with a male L6-30 twist lock end into this outlet. The cool thing about this set up is that once it's plugged in, you can't simply unplug it. You'd need to twist it to the left and then pull it out. It just prevents the cord from falling out on it's own (which would happen if you or someone else was pulling on it - or I guess it could happen from the vibration of your compressor maybe). Anyway, when you go to Depot or Lowes, just ask someone for an L6-30 twist lock outlet and matching male end for a cord and you'll see what these look like. Also, these will only be needed if you're going to put a plug on your compressor. You can skip all of this if you just hard wire it. Hard wiring would mean you putting a 30amp circuit breaker into your new subpanel and then running 8 AWG straight out to your compressor.

Conduit is only needed if it's code for your town. Call your town's building inspector if you are in doubt as to what the code is. You could have an older house that doesn't use conduit, but the code could have changed and now conduit is required for any new electrical runs. Best to verify what the code is.

 

[Junkman]

Use 2" Schedule 40 grey electrical PVC and get the long 90 degree sweeps. Much easier to pull wire through. At the same time, consider putting a conduit in for telephone and one for cable/DSL. I would also run one for water since you are going to need to put this in a trench at least 18" below the ground, depending on code where you live. Junk

 

[ovilla]

Hey Junk, good to see you on the board. You bring up some good points about other runs. Vernmotor are you just going from inside your basement to your attached garage or out into the yard and in to a seperate detached building?

 

[Junkman]

Ok I got to run wire 100 ft out to my shop .all inside from the basement. here are the specs on the compressor.

Hey Junk, good to see you on the board. You bring up some good points about other runs. Vernmotor are you just going from inside your basement to your attached garage or out into the yard and in to a seperate detached building?

You made me re-read what he wrote. I would still put it inside PCS Conduit, and bolt it securely to the wall. Instead of using 90 degree sweeps, he can use right and / or left handed pull boxes. He also could use exposed service cable, but I don't like that because of possible damage, and rodents possibly chewing on the wire. PVC isn't very expensive, and it is easy to work with. Junk....

 

[Vernmotor]

Ok well many thanks for all the repleys. After reading the other post. About where to put the compresser and talking with my wife.I think I going to put it in the basement. That is where my old one is now. But it is a little baby 110 volt deal not very loud. I was worry about the noise. But my wife walked out in the shop last night and looked at it and said where you going to put that.You got no room out here for it.She had allready alsume I was putting it in the basement. So be it...If it is too loud I will build some sound proofing around it.so do you all think a 30 amp breaker would be ok ?

 

[indyracer]

A 30 amp breaker with 10 gauge wire should do you fine. What is the manufacturer and model of your compressor? I will see what I can find out for you.

 

[Vernmotor]

It is a cornwell..not sure who realy makes it.

 

[indyracer]

There doesn't seem to be much info just having Cornwell to go by. Not that it matters, you should be fine with 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp breaker.

 

[phorsfi]

wow this is scary... Consult a qualified electrician, Im an electrician in Canada and those of you recommending 10awg wire and a 30amp breaker are looking to burn down this guys house. The compressor is rated at 16A, the UL/CSA etc ratings on these motors are peak (motor start amperage) ratings. A 20A breaker will suffice quite well, it wont nuisance trip and it will also protect the wire and compressor from over current/thermal damage.

In summary:

20A 2 Pole Breaker
#12 Wire
and if you don't know what your doing find someone who does.

 

[Vernmotor]

Well I don't thats why I came here to ask ? Thank you.

 

[Vernmotor]

Here are some pics

here is label

beleve it or not it is not new. guy clams to use it two times. and he gave 1000.00 for it . I bought it for 600.00

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Single stage compressors rarely advertise the correct horsepower. The "6 hp" is most likely a starting hp, a motor that draws 16 amps FLC (which is probably what the info on the data plate is giving you) is about 3 hp running. Initial start up amps will be at least twice this number. Given the specs on this unit, thats my take on it ..........

http://www.cornwelltools.com/OnlineCatalog/Power Tools/122pneumaticacce.html

The motor is thermally protected, so the purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the wire, and the motor, but the motor has its own protection, to a degree, in the thermal protection built in the motor.

Charles

 

[Vernmotor]

that ACC-6061V is what I got. So start up amps would be 32 amps ? and would blow a 20 amp breaker ?

 

[Aceman]

wow this is scary... Consult a qualified electrician, Im an electrician in Canada and those of you recommending 10awg wire and a 30amp breaker are looking to burn down this guys house. The compressor is rated at 16A, the UL/CSA etc ratings on these motors are peak (motor start amperage) ratings. A 20A breaker will suffice quite well, it wont nuisance trip and it will also protect the wire and compressor from over current/thermal damage.

In summary:

20A 2 Pole Breaker
#12 Wire
and if you don't know what your doing find someone who does.

Just to play devil's advocate, I could run #12 Romex and put it on a 40 amp breaker. If this wasn't sufficient to start the motor I could take it up to a 60 amp breaker and still be code legal.

However, I agree with the phorsfi's suggestion of #12 on a 2 pole 20 amp breaker. If this doesn't start it, swap to a 30 amp. Usually there are instructions with the compressor that will suggest the minimum wire/max breaker size.