I have a new concrete floor I just poured in my pole barn. I know i have to wait at least 30 days to coat it but i dont know what to use for an epoxy. I want something that will hold up to gas and oil. I am gonna have a hoist and do automotive work in there so i want something durable. Hopefully you guys can help me.
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New concrete floor...what to use?
- Thread starter slys02ta
- Start date
victorpachade
Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2010
- Messages
- 7
We recommend testing the moisture vapor emission before installing epoxy or any other coating on the floor. Perhaps a coat of epoxy primer and body coat and top coat it with Polyurethane or Polyaspartic will work. I hope this helps. Cheers!
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
A new concrete floor doesn't really have requirements much different from an old floor, just that the prep work is easier.
TheBanker
Well-known member
I think I have heard about more issues with new concrete than old. Make sure you research well, and that your floor is ready for epoxy. Test it. Talk to someone very knowledgeable about epoxy products like Fred above.
How do I test for mositure in the concrete? I was looking at the 2 part solvent based epoxy at menards(rustoleum)...Is that good? I have power washed the floor a couple times and plan to etch the floor. Is there anything else i should do or look into?
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Although there are situations where solvents add utility to a floor coating, odds are in your case solvents add nothing of value to your project other than increased profits for the manufacturer. You pay for them, apply them, and they evaporate - **** - gone. What they can leave behind are small, hollow, tunnels in the coating. Tunnels that can trap spills and weaken the coating (think of a solid piece of wood compared to that same piece but with holes drilled throughout).
Also, is it 1 coat, 2 coats, or 3 coats? What's the final dry film thickness? It sounds like your coating may see its fair share of punishment, be sure to apply a system that's up to the challenge. This is a home improvement project you don't want to do twice.
The water vapor test is simple, tape down a piece of 3' x 3' plastic to the floor, leave it for a couple of days, and see if any moisture is present on the floor or under the plastic. If so you may have hydrostatic pressure - not a deal killer, but something that merits further investigation.
Also, is it 1 coat, 2 coats, or 3 coats? What's the final dry film thickness? It sounds like your coating may see its fair share of punishment, be sure to apply a system that's up to the challenge. This is a home improvement project you don't want to do twice.
The water vapor test is simple, tape down a piece of 3' x 3' plastic to the floor, leave it for a couple of days, and see if any moisture is present on the floor or under the plastic. If so you may have hydrostatic pressure - not a deal killer, but something that merits further investigation.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Water based has the same shortcomings. Go with a 100% solids product.
TheBanker
Well-known member
This is where you will have to do some of your own research. Fred actually has a product himself that as you can tell he does not push on others. You can search this forum and find many threads for other products too. I would not use the box store stuff myself. I just did mine a few weeks ago with epoxy-coat.
Will S.
Well-known member
slys, I'm looking into this too, as I have a 1725 sf floor that I poured about a month ago. I'm leaning toward 100% solids epoxy, for the advantages stated, but after getting this far in the project, I am getting thin on funds. Costco sells a 100% epoxy product made by EpoxyMaster. The cost is about a third of the premium Wolverine products, yet the dry-film thickness is nearly the same (E/M doesn't use a clear-coat, which would add additional thickness if one were used).
So far, for me, that seems to be the most bang for the buck.
So far, for me, that seems to be the most bang for the buck.
aklim
Member
Costco sells a 100% epoxy product made by EpoxyMaster. The cost is about a third of the premium Wolverine products, yet the dry-film thickness is nearly the same (E/M doesn't use a clear-coat, which would add additional thickness if one were used).
So far, for me, that seems to be the most bang for the buck.
Why would it be so cheap though? I mean, it's not as if the company is there to make you a product. All companies are there to make money selling something. Why would they sell it cheaper by that much? Certainly not for your benefit. What is the catch?
If they were both equal, I would agree it is. That is the main question, isn't it? Are they equal or not?
Will S.
Well-known member
Why would it be so cheap though? I mean, it's not as if the company is there to make you a product. All companies are there to make money selling something. Why would they sell it cheaper by that much? Certainly not for your benefit. What is the catch?
If they were both equal, I would agree it is. That is the main question, isn't it? Are they equal or not?
Well, we all have to research these products to our own satisfaction, and make own decisions. Costco, being a national membership-club box-store, sells their products at a fixed % (3% comes to mind), over their cost, and in the scale of things, they probably sell a lot. So those things, I am sure, would account for a big difference in price.
I also did not say that E/M and Wolverine are identical products; only that the dry-film thickness is similar, both being 100% solids. But the chemistry may be different, and Wolverine may be a superior product. It may have better abrasion resistance, or impact resistance, etc. But EpoxyMaster is far better than the solvent or water-based coatings, and is probably more than adequate for me. Your mileage may vary.
TheBanker
Well-known member
I have to agree with you on Epoxymaster being better than the box store stuff because it is 100% solids. If you are using flakes, like I did, you will want a clear top coat. Keep in mind that it does not include a clear top coat and others do. That can be the difference in price. In comparing the two, Wolverine and epoxymaster, you are comparing a top line product and economy product. There may be others in the middle.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Some of my friends have been telling me to just use a sealer. How well would that resist stains?
Depends on the sealer and what other coating you're comparing it to. Although generally a resin system will offer more chem resistance then most sealers (a very broad category), there are some sealers that are more stain resistant than some resin coatings.