To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

New construction attached garage in the city, input needed

RAB

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
12
Location
BC
Hi, I have been planning out a garage for our new house and nearing finalization with the architect. The garage started out as a 3 car but has shrunk down dramatically to a 2 car, I’m finding it hard to ballance the house space with the garage. Current dimensions are 24 deep x 27 wide Plan is 2 10ft doors on the right side where the lane is and another single door (size to be determined) from the back with potential covered pad. See photos. (Also attached a mock up of the living room I quickly did which looks a bit tight with 2 sofas and chairs)
No real options here for a detached, unless we go tandem, and attached will allow over 14ft high ceilings which I need to try to fit 2 Bendpak HD-973PX https://www.bendpak.ca/car-lifts/parking-lifts/hd-973px/ I’m trying to get storage for more cars after loosing the 3 car plus the ability to work on and lift a car up out of the way for a clear floor space.
My father in law who is a contractor and will be building the house suggests I shorten the garage to 22ft, however, I don’t know how much more depth I can give up. Not to mention there are stairs behind the one bay aprox 3ft wide shortening it from 24 to 21. A work bench, my tools or much of anything up front either side seems less and less likely, add a longer truck down the road or the full size suv wife wants and game over. The width might save me for tools etc, however, I dont want door dings or scratches as we have 3 kids under 5 and I already see lots of problems with doors flinging open, bumping into things and loading and unloading groceries etc.
I’m not a ******** mechanic but definitely enjoy it and have done motor and transmissions swaps etc growing up. Seeing as how the plan is for this to be our forever home I would like to have enough space for more involved projects in the future. Currently my time is consumed and limited to mostly vehicle maintenance. I have considered shrinking it to 23 but am not sure if that’s going to mess up my quite set idea that 24 is the minimum depth a garage should be. On the flip side living space for the family is quite important also. Either way me and my father in law agree once it’s done we can’t change it.
I have been thinking about this long and hard, looked over many threads / pictures in this forum, but am still spinning wheels in my head. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • 73B17F25-3329-4572-A9B6-2B94DB3F930A.jpeg
    73B17F25-3329-4572-A9B6-2B94DB3F930A.jpeg
    135 KB · Views: 112
  • 7B4659C1-455D-435A-8134-EDA89D880A26.jpeg
    7B4659C1-455D-435A-8134-EDA89D880A26.jpeg
    123.2 KB · Views: 109
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jetnow1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2016
Messages
511
Location
CT.
Going from 24 to 23 saves almost nothing, always build on 2 foot increments, 4 foot is even better. remember that measurements are outside, interior are almost a foot less. The lifts are another thing to consider, you need room to
mount them and work around them, esp. as there will be 2. My garage is 24 w by 30 deep and I find it tight to work in
and I have no lift, though I have a 1950 chevy truck that is apart enough to be most of the problem LOL.
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,521
Location
Omaha, NE
I agree that 24' should be minimum depth, tung to go to 22' is going to upset you until you sell the house.

There are some garages I've seen here with a lift in a 2 car but it's definitely harder, hopefully some of them see this and chime in.

Can you post elevation drawings or the full site layout? Can that concrete pad slave to the right be incorporated into the garage and could be a work area/ bench toolboxes?
As it looks like you're far north... how many cars are desired to park inside at night?
 

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,026
Location
Blacksburg, Va
At 24x27 you have a decent 2 car garage w/ some room front and to the side for tools and bench. I don't think you will be happy putting a lift in it though. We haven't seen roof lines so not sure but, would it be possible to extend to the rear running the roof over the mudroom AND the pad. You have the front of the garage set back a foot or two from the front of the house so extend the garage out the back by the same amount? Can the mudroom be made narrower? If those could happen you would have a nice tool/bench/etc area so the 27 would be much less of a restriction.
 

ddawg16

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
21,005
Location
S. California
My garage is 25' deep....and it's not enough (never is)

Do you really need the den?

Your biggest issue is the stairs....they are eating up a ton of room. Get rid of the landing and you gain a lot of room. And, the space under the stairs if you go straight can make a great closet and/or toilet sink area
 

racecougar

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
5,035
Location
Missouri
As others have said above, if you're able to extend the roofline to incorporate the exterior pad and the mudroom, you would have space for tools, could move the stairs, etc. You would gain significant usable space.

What is the push to reduce the length to 22'? What option do you have to increase it to 28'?
 

csi123

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
97
Sorry if I missed it, but you spent a lot of words to describe your effort to shrink down the garage, and no where you explained the reason. Are you trying to save money? Is it a zoning/by-law issue?
 

billconner

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,962
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
I'm building a garage to primarily park cars. I spent time on driveway with wife and chalk and bins. We decided 26' x 26' inside was minimum to not bump doors and be able to walk around both cars. Outback and Crosstrek. Ended up at 28' x 32' outside dimensions to hang canoes on wall in front and some tools - takes and shovels and such - on sides. Had a smaller garage and hated hitting rake handles when opening car door, and having to hoist canoes on pulleys and lines overhead.

YMMV
 

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,876
Location
oregon
OP
R

RAB

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
12
Location
BC
Thanks for the replies, I was trying to be as informative in my original post as possible, however I seem to have missed some explanations, my apologies. So I will try to make everything a bit more clear.
Sorry if I missed it, but you spent a lot of words to describe your effort to shrink down the garage, and no where you explained the reason. Are you trying to save money? Is it a zoning/by-law issue?
In our area we are only allowed a certain amount of lot coverage and square footage. What I didn’t explain when mentioning about the balance between house space and garage space was in particular the great room or tv room (which I attached with a rough 8ft couch placement and chairs) is a bit tight looking with the foyer in there too. Last thing I want is to be sitting watching tv (all 5 of us) and thinking this room is too small and how I should have added a foot, or looking at how narrow it is walking from the front to the back. Another thing is that there are 3 floors, the basement being partly a suite as a mortgage helper (Our little lot here costs over 1million just for the land, sickening I know) We are not allowed to build under the garage regardless so shrinking the depth of the 24 garage will allow for a bigger basement and suite, along with tv room, etc..
Here in our city attached garages are limited to 452sqft anything over comes out of the house footage. I am at 648 so I have taken 196sqft from the house. Funny thing is if the property is a bit larger than a standard 33x120 (which ours is a bit larger) the garage footage allowance doesn’t increase.
I agree that 24' should be minimum depth, tung to go to 22' is going to upset you until you sell the house.

There are some garages I've seen here with a lift in a 2 car but it's definitely harder, hopefully some of them see this and chime in.

Can you post elevation drawings or the full site layout? Can that concrete pad slave to the right be incorporated into the garage and could be a work area/ bench toolboxes?
As it looks like you're far north... how many cars are desired to park inside at night?
I have attached some photos for reference. The pad on the side cannot be enclosed as we are currently built to max footage, would be great if I could enclose it, maybe one day. Wife has her suv which should be inside, I have a pickup that will be inside. I have a van provided by work that sits outside and will likely be in the rear yard for security purposes. I also have a project car that will be inside and hoped to store some of my father’s collector cars hence the hoists
At 24x27 you have a decent 2 car garage w/ some room front and to the side for tools and bench. I don't think you will be happy putting a lift in it though. We haven't seen roof lines so not sure but, would it be possible to extend to the rear running the roof over the mudroom AND the pad. You have the front of the garage set back a foot or two from the front of the house so extend the garage out the back by the same amount? Can the mudroom be made narrower? If those could happen you would have a nice tool/bench/etc area so the 27 would be much less of a restriction.
Yes the rear pad was to be covered by the house roof. Plan was a M roof over the two potential garage bays hopefully grabbing some extra height. See attached photo. Mud room is likely going to be high traffic with the wife and kids coming from the garage or outside. We have 3 boys under 5 so slimming mud room might not be a great idea, however, maybe could push it back into the deck a foot didn‘t really think about that.
My garage is 25' deep....and it's not enough (never is)

Do you really need the den?

Your biggest issue is the stairs....they are eating up a ton of room. Get rid of the landing and you gain a lot of room. And, the space under the stairs if you go straight can make a great closet and/or toilet sink area
The den is actually an office and we will need it as the wife is going back to work after her maternity leave. Her office job has switched to work from home since the pandemic. The stairs do eat a lot of space, originally they were not on the drawing until I asked where they were going to go. My father in law suggested removing the landing also, I think we will do that or shorten it substantially. New photos shows split level so under the stairs won’t be that high unfortunately. Toilet would be nice and has been considered, the point of that door to the pad was originally to open the garage to the back yard so I can watch the kids play.

As others have said above, if you're able to extend the roofline to incorporate the exterior pad and the mudroom, you would have space for tools, could move the stairs, etc. You would gain significant usable space.

What is the push to reduce the length to 22'? What option do you have to increase it to 28'?
As I mentioned above in this post we are built to max and cannot enclose this area and yes will have the pad covered as part of the house roof. I think you are also talking about (correct me if I’m wrong, if we were able to enclose and put the stairs there) narrowing the rear garage door width connecting to the pad in the process. One thing I didn’t point out yet is, if all hoists are lifted, I was actually hoping to be able to pull a car through that door at the back. This would place the vehicle parallel to the lane incase I really needed to be inside with lots of space around a vehicle. Not sure if that makes sense, that would give me a 27 deep 24 wide single car temporarily with cars stuck above on hoists. That’s probably the closest I’ll get to 28 deep.
I'm building a garage to primarily park cars. I spent time on driveway with wife and chalk and bins. We decided 26' x 26' inside was minimum to not bump doors and be able to walk around both cars. Outback and Crosstrek. Ended up at 28' x 32' outside dimensions to hang canoes on wall in front and some tools - takes and shovels and such - on sides. Had a smaller garage and hated hitting rake handles when opening car door, and having to hoist canoes on pulleys and lines overhead.

YMMV
I have been, through the entire house plan, laying out the rooms with the tape measure to give my wife more perspective of all the sizing, last thing I want to hear when it’s built is “it’s a lot smaller than I thought“. My father in law suggested a shed which we will likely have to do. I think that would be good for bikes and garden related things but not where I believe my tools belong, running across the yard for car tools would be a pain. I also cringe at the thought of a shovel or rake landing on the paint or even a kids bike dragged down the side of a car.

At the bottom of your drawings I can't help but think, can't that guy draw a straight line? Look at the way the porch roof and garage integrate in this guy's house, https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/out-on-quaker-road.277462/page-113#post-9216550

A simple straight front wall with a covered porch that runs into the garage roof. Adds maybe 6' to the length of the garage.

good luck

lg
no neat sig line
Not exactly understanding what you mean here, maybe you could explain? Extra 6 ft would be nice. What I do know is the house would look quite square and flat as a straight line. The architect intentionally has set the garage slightly back which will improve the overall front look of the house. Also there is a set building envelope from the property lines, aprox 5 ft on the sides 19 ft in front and 24ft in the back. Also again we are at max footage and lot coverage
Going from 24 to 23 saves almost nothing, always build on 2 foot increments, 4 foot is even better. remember that measurements are outside, interior are almost a foot less. The lifts are another thing to consider, you need room to
mount them and work around them, esp. as there will be 2. My garage is 24 w by 30 deep and I find it tight to work in
and I have no lift, though I have a 1950 chevy truck that is apart enough to be most of the problem LOL.
When you are taking about the 24-23 savings do mean lumber cost? That’s also probably why my father in law said 22. I also believe, if the drawing is correct, I have a finished interior dimension of 24x27 currently. I hear you about the project, I was really hoping to throw mine up out of the way on a hoist as it would help until I find some time for it. Not to mention it would also make it easier to finish. Working under jack stands was fine when I was 16 but not what I want to do today.



I hope I answered everyone’s questions, explained the situation better, and do very much appreciate all the input
 

Attachments

  • 8A7EAA57-B801-4E55-99CF-1E4BADAC2755.jpeg
    8A7EAA57-B801-4E55-99CF-1E4BADAC2755.jpeg
    81.7 KB · Views: 59
  • EB62FD84-511F-491D-A575-110347D621E5.jpeg
    EB62FD84-511F-491D-A575-110347D621E5.jpeg
    253.1 KB · Views: 51
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

racecougar

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
5,035
Location
Missouri
I think we're all in a state of shock after that explanation, and it really sounds like you don't have much recourse here. $1M for a tiny plot of land with all of those restrictions is difficult to comprehend.
 
OP
R

RAB

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
12
Location
BC
I think we're all in a state of shock after that explanation, and it really sounds like you don't have much recourse here. $1M for a tiny plot of land with all of those restrictions is difficult to comprehend.
This is pretty normal here in the lower mainland of BC, unless you are further out of the city and or on farm land. Even then it can be still quite expensive and subject to restrictions.
All makes sense now.

Are you as allowed storage in attic over garage? Attic or storage trusses and a pull down stairs?
I think that a space such as an attic would fall under crawl space (not sure) which is limited to 4ft maximum height, anything over 4ft high is counted towards square footage. Furthermore I was hoping to have the trusses made higher to utilize some footage above the 14.5ft max ceiling, hence the M shaped roof over the garage doors
 
OP
R

RAB

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
12
Location
BC
Qu'est-ce que c'est "M shaped roof"?
Haha, I never was good at French, used to say in class Je ne comprends pas le français.
Here is an example of an M roof.
 

Attachments

  • 5B6FB456-8516-44F6-B6FC-A33CB5E41894.jpeg
    5B6FB456-8516-44F6-B6FC-A33CB5E41894.jpeg
    33.5 KB · Views: 37

driftpin

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Messages
11,227
Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
The Farm Stores here in FL were famous for their 'butterfly' rooflines. Not many of the named stores left, but the buildings are still there, I saw one yesterday. For those not familiar, they were drive-thru convenience stores. I liked the ice cream, it was delicious.

Take a close look at how the building height is measured in the zoning regs, there may be a way to get more height.
 

billconner

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,962
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
Haha, I never was good at French, used to say in class Je ne comprends pas le français.
Here is an example of an M roof.
I don't think I've ever seen that. Seems like roof leaks waiting to happen, not to mention collecting leaves. I guess you have a really good reason.
 
OP
R

RAB

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
12
Location
BC
I don't think I've ever seen that. Seems like roof leaks waiting to happen, not to mention collecting leaves. I guess you have a really good reason.
You are absolutely correct about leaves and leaks. The valley though will have a sloped section towards the lane to help push everything out that may collect. Also the provided photo is an exaggeration of an m roof. At 27 wide across the doors with 2 peaks at a height of 4-5 ft will give a pitch of roughly 7 to 12. I figure if I do a regular roof the pitch will be too low at 27 wide with 4 to 5 foot rise which will create its own issues. Flat roof also will cause issues. Hopefully, as mentioned before, with the M configuration and some modified trusses I can gain a couple of feet for the Triple stack Bendpak HD-973PX’s (the posts are about 14ft tall). Reason I don’t want to go higher rise than 4-5ft is to keep windows on the upper floor north side. We will see what happens engineering wise maybe it isn’t doable or feasible.
 

billconner

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,962
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
Or take a lesson from Pickles and make it a deck.

I figured there was a sloped plan between two gables. It would be fun to frame - I like roof framing - but not inexpensive if paying a crew.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom