New construction garage - what am I forgetting?

[ShadowRuleZ]

So we're going to be building a new home and since we're planning on being there for a while, we've made some changes with the builder. Garage has to be attached and we've added an extra 16' to the width and 2' to the depth, so it'll be about 24'x48' with a 2' bump out on the far side. I've also asked for a 12' ceiling with the thought of having a lift in the future. The builder is going to do that by having a 2' brick ledge.

We're going to get two 18'x8' doors put in, they are insulated but the foam is visible (there's isn't any metal on the inside). The floor plan of the house has been modified with a larger mud room and a pantry, so I'm losing the first four feet in the garage to that and the stairs to get into the house and the wife's DD parking spot is that first one. The first parking area has the second floor (kids room) directly above it, so it will have a shorter ceiling height than the second parking area. The second area is the one that will have the 12' ceiling.

In trying to future proof this, I've asked to have 6" thickness poured w/wire mesh across the second parking area, roughly the middle 8' by the width of that side. I'm hoping that's general enough that I could have the option of having a 2 post lift as well. I've seen comments about putting a vapor barrier under the concrete, is that fairly common to do? I haven't asked for it yet since I just found that it was an option. I do want to eventually install a heater in the garage.

I've talked to him about a subpanel, but the quote I got on additional outlets seems excessive to me but the garage is going to be dry walled so I'm worried about doing the circuits later. I think I'm going to talk to the electrician directly and see what he can do. The builder was okay with me running air lines before the drywall is put up.

So the specific questions I have are whether or not makes sense to have a vapor barrier put under the concrete, if there's anything I should be doing to try and suppress noise getting into the house other than just the insulation, if I should be looking at the sandwich insulated garage doors with metal outside and inside, if I should be asking for a specific concrete finish inside (smooth?), and anything else I happen to have forgotten about.

I apologize for rambling a bit, but I'm fairly excited about it and I'm trying to squeeze in everything now that we're done with planning the house portion. My current garage is 19x20 and crammed to the rafters. I've got my very first car with a donor car as a project in storage two hours away, so that'll be the first thing I'll be working on. I haven't driven it in about ten years.

 

[hoho98925]

ALWAYS use the vapor barrier. Its cheap insurance.

 

[ctgoodman]

+1 on the vapor barrier and that should be over about 4" of gravel as well. Be careful on the air lines. Put the plates over them so the drywall installers don't run a screw in to them. On the garage doors, I'd say it depends. If you are working out there I would probably opt for the inner metal skin. Otherwise you will probably tear into the vinyl covered foam. Good call on planning for the lift. With living area above the garage just be careful about running engines in there. Now with the electrical you definitely need to run it now and plan for everything you think you might need. Once the drywall is up it will be a royal pain to get anything in there and get it where you want it.

 

[brice017]

Just built my house/garage.

Make sure they insulate the entire garage by default. My builder sheet rocks the entire garage but only insulates the interior facing walls. $250 well spent.

After insulation and before drywall, I went in and ran wires for garage door openers (wall switch/ photo sensors on each side of the garage doors).

I also ran a romex around the entire garage and noted it's height for later on. I hid the end behind the builder's wall outlet. After settlement, went in, installed my own wall outlets. Savings $150 per outlet.

Also added a window in the garage. Now in the summer I can throw in a window air conditioner for AC. Also allows light in, as my garage doors are solid (no windows).

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

Be careful on the air lines. Put the plates over them so the drywall installers don't run a screw in to them.

I'll be running them down from the attic and it's a 2x6 wall so I'm hoping if I put them down the middle of the stud I won't have a problem. I've got two of the rapidair kits I was going to use.

On the garage doors, I'd say it depends. If you are working out there I would probably opt for the inner metal skin. Otherwise you will probably tear into the vinyl covered foam.

Thanks, I'll have them look into the other doors, I don't know what the upgrade cost will be.

Make sure they insulate the entire garage by default. My builder sheet rocks the entire garage but only insulates the interior facing walls. $250 well spent.

I am having him do that, but not the attic. I'll deal with the attic myself later (along with an attic ladder).

After insulation and before drywall, I went in and ran wires for garage door openers (wall switch/ photo sensors on each side of the garage doors).

He's taking care of the openers for me and the installer is going to do the liftmaster jackshaft openers. I'm waiting on a quote for a high light door as well.

I also ran a romex around the entire garage and noted it's height for later on. I hid the end behind the builder's wall outlet. After settlement, went in, installed my own wall outlets. Savings $150 per outlet.

I guess my quote of $100/outlet wasn't that bad, it just sounded high to me. I was going to talk to the electrician and see what his cash price was going to be, or see if he could run an outlet on the far corner of the garage with a loop about every 6 feet or so so I could put in outlets afterwards. I wasn't sure if would be a code issue to have romex in the walls not connected to anything, I'll check into that. I was thinking of drilling holes and putting in a pull string before drywall, but I have a feeling that trying to pull romex later would be pretty bad even if it was only 6-8 feet at a time.

Another thing I was thinking about is that I'm paying for a subpanel out there, but I'm not sure if I should be asking for any specific install instructions. If I have it flush mounted, should I be asking for conduit run to the attic space so I can add circuits later?

Also added a window in the garage. Now in the summer I can throw in a window air conditioner for AC. Also allows light in, as my garage doors are solid (no windows).

HOA (I know, I know) doesn't allow window mounted A/C, but there is a window in the front (it's a side entry garage)

 

[bczygan]

One thing I would do, is to plan for the future.

By that, I mean all the possible changes I might want to make later.

This could include using the spaces for other functions. This could also include adding to the space, or even demolishing part of it. So I would design it with these possible future changes in mind. Know where your setbacks are. Know your zoning restrictions. Look at how you might change your lifestyle over time, and how that would change how you use your house and lot. In the future you might decide you want a garden, or a pool, or more lawn for kids to play, or a tennis court or even more inside parking space or room for a bigger shop. Anticipate those possible futures by making the structure easy to modify.
Would you add a deck and BBQ later? Run a gas line now, stubbed out and capped. Do you have enough FPHBs (Frost proof hose bibbs)?
How about an air outlet on the outside wall of the garage so you can air up things in the driveway? How about water and drainage piping in the garage? Gas in the garage for heat? Phone and security and communications lines from the house to garage? Electric outlets at the driveway?
If you have a steep slope roof, are you taking advantage of the storage possibilities in the roof structure?
Do you have windows located in the garage spaces so that you will have good outside views as you work?
Does the garage layout reflect the functions, or are you going to try to fit the functions into the garage? Try for the former.
Is the finish floor elevation of the garage set so it is adequately above surrounding grade and so the approach paving slopes away from it? What is the door directions and what details prevent wind driven rain and melting snow that is banked up against the doors, from entry. Is the inside floor sloped or flat, and what is the rationale for which one you decided on. What is the spec for the garage floor finish?
What is your plan for ceiling, wall and floor finish and insulation types and levels. How about heating and cooling. What's the electrical power and lighting plan?
What are the functions you are accommodating, storage, car parking, automotive repair, wood or metalworking, yard tool storage, sports equipment storage, etc.?

For future consideration, what are the rules for accessory buildings?

Ask all your questions now.

Have you got a plot plan and floor plan? What are the HOA rules?

 

[MScott]

How about running pex in the concrete floor for possible (or immediate) in-floor heating. Simple to do when building and not too expensive. Just be sure to plan out where your hoist would go and leave an area free of pex for the pads (if going for a two post lift.)

 

[canuckian]

vapour barrier for sure.
I had the option of running airlines (or whatever I wanted - GREAT builder) inside the wall while my shop was being built but decided to surface mount them instead. Reason being if i ever developed a leak it would be a helluva lot easier to find and fix. I see you're using rapidair so I suppose if you'll have no joins or tees inside the wall that wouldn't be an issue.
if you think you'll ever need 220v in there (I see you're considering a lift), add it now where you think you'll need it. I put in 1 dedicated for each the compressor and lift and 3 welder plugs. one by each bay door and one in the middle of the back of the shop.
Make sure you have adequate lighting or run the conduit into the ceiling now if you can add them yourelf later. My last shop had only 5 regular screw in light sockets. I didn't make the same mistake twice lol. 4 rows of flourescents on the big side and 2 rows in the smaller side wired on 3 switches.
if it's allowed in your area, be sure to install floor drains. I see you're in Detroit so you'll have lots of snow and slush dropping off your vehicles in the winter.
that's about all I can think of.

 

[J.A.Varela]

Get someone from an industrial lighting company to come out and recommend. Nothing ***** more than **** lighting in a shop.If you don't walk in at night, turn the lights on and reach for shades----y'aint got enough lite !

 

[muncie21]

Thoughts to consider

Gas stub for future heat
110V/AC in ceiling where liftmaster will go
220V/AC (x3 or so) for future welder, air compressor, etc
Extra lighting
Floor drains

Good luck!