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New detached garage electrical load.

tjb4h5

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Aug 17, 2017
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Trying to get some advice on supplying electrical service to my new detached garage. I've read a ton of forums on here that are extremely helpful. My residence is 200 amp service with all electric; with heat pump and a well pump. My online load calc came to 42,300 watts (VA) and 177 amps. My question is will I be ok running a 60-90 amp sub panel to the new garage. I've done this before at my last residence, however I had more gas appliances and load was not an issue. I plan on converting some appliances to gas in the future, but would like to know if I'm ok for now. Shop will have 3hp compressor, car lift, lights, regular tools and mig welder once in a while. Thanks for any advice.
 

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astroracer

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One man shop? A one man shop will never have all of the equipment running at one time... I ran 100 amps from the 200 amp service on my house out to my shop 30 years ago and have never had a breaker pop. That's with a mill, two lathes, two welders, a plasma cutter, a lift, a 7 HP 2 stage air compressor, lights, furnace, small A/C unit and all of the lesser draw AC powered stuff. And the house is all electric except for the water heater... 3 ton A/C, Range, refrigerator, washer/dryer, etc., etc....
Mark
 

larry_g

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I concur with Astroracer. I was in a similar shop with an 80 amp service if I remember.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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tjb4h5

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Aug 17, 2017
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Thank you guys. Yes, one man hobby shop. I'll probably just do the sub panel and plan on converting the electric water heater,dryer and range to gas in the future. Appreciate the help.
 
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tjb4h5

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Ok, thank you. Just not used to being without gas appliances. I have a large propane tank on the property but that only supplies the home generator during electrical outages.
 

astroracer

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If you are running off propane you'd better check prices before converting to "cheaper" gas appliances. I can understand you being used to using the gas appliances but don't switch them out because you think you have to.

Buying new appliances, putting in gas lines and then paying for propane is probably not going to be as cheap as simply using the electric appliances you already have...
Mark
 

Norcal

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gas is usually cheaper than electric and converting to gas can help lower electric usage and tier levels.

The tier levels are something that California in it’s wisdom has foisted on it’s citizens to jack their electric bills through the stratosphere, I doubt most other States will dare to try.
 

wyliesdiesels

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The tier levels are something that California in it’s wisdom has foisted on it’s citizens to jack their electric bills through the stratosphere, I doubt most other States will dare to try.

Well yeah and gas has tiers as well.

Profits gone elsewhere(PG&E) must have the steepest electric rates in the country- 21 cents per kwh.

Luckily I only have PG&E gas and my electricity comes from a locol co-op which far cheaper than PG&E.
 
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tjb4h5

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I dont plan on replacing appliances that are working, just if one goes out I will probably convert it. I'm in missouri. Prices aren't too bad but an second electric service to the garage would be an extra monthly charge plus the service rate is different I believe. So I'd rather come off the house if possible.
 

Falcon67

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We're all electric, 200A panel with a 90A run to a 20 slot panel/100A main in my 960 sq/ft shop. The run is breakered at 70A. No issues. Guess we better quit bitchin' about .115/kWh.
 

theoldwizard1

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Shop will have 3hp compressor, car lift, lights, regular tools and mig welder once in a while.

Strictly "rule of thumb". 60A should be adequate. The exception MIGHT be if you go to a 5hp compressor AND a plasma cutter. 90A and you have lots of head room.
 
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tjb4h5

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Aug 17, 2017
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Thanks again everyone. Going out to work on the garage today. 2 more doors to put up and then electric and some final grading and gravel spread outside. I will do a build thread of the building when I'm done and add the inside just as i go along.
 

ptgarcia

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At my location, SCE's tiered rates start at $0.163 and go up to $0.285 per kWh. My last bill, I paid $0.226 per kWh. During the summer its higher.
 

Norcal

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Yikes :shocking:

I guess i shouldnt complain about .12cents/kwh in the winter.

Municipal utilities/ utility districts are cheaper then for profit PoCo’s. The North Arkansas Coop used to charge . 07 in winter and .09 cents a KWH in the summer I understand that they raised it a bit a few years ago, use power the wrong time of day & PG&E could hit you with .50 cents a KWH.
 
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tjb4h5

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Aug 17, 2017
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Thought I'd update this if anyone sees it in the future. Electric is installed to garage. I ran SER 2-2-2-4 from house panel to large junction box just before exiting the basement. I used splicer/reducers and a lot of 3M products (haha) to splice 2-2-2-4 MHF. MHF exits house inside conduit to LB and down underground all the way to garage. Up to another LB and into new square D 24 space (48 circuit) 100 amp panel. It's about a 150' run. Tested voltage today and I'm ready to start wiring inside garage. Thanks for all the advice here and on this site!
 

wyliesdiesels

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Municipal utilities/ utility districts are cheaper then for profit PoCo’s. The North Arkansas Coop used to charge . 07 in winter and .09 cents a KWH in the summer I understand that they raised it a bit a few years ago, use power the wrong time of day & PG&E could hit you with .50 cents a KWH.

yup im aware.

And Penalize, Graft and Extort (PG&E) may be going out of business....
 

Norcal

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yup im aware.

And Penalize, Graft and Extort (PG&E) may be going out of business....

Doubt they will fold but we are going to pay through the nose, last I heard they are looking at $30 billion in liabilities with all the lawsuits that have been filed. We are going to pay.
 
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