new door doesn't line up with driveway

[Synchony1]

Just got a new Amarr/Heritage 3000 installed (7 X 16) and when it closes it 'sits' on the lip of the garage floor - which is about an inch higher than the driveway (which is where the door should close to. Had the installer come out and he showed me where the rails really can't be adjusted (the door is closing snug to the beams on either side and and door is aligned properly) and while that is true - that doesn't solve my problem. I previously had a Clopay that closed properly and while the new door is probably a little wider/thicker (steel/poly/steel) I was told by one of the techs that it would fit in the existing space with no problem. Anyone else experience this & even if not, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[Renegade1LI]

Cut back the seat.

 

[Bert_]

Never seen a door close on the driveway. The driveway usually starts outside the garage.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Never seen a door close on the driveway. The driveway usually starts outside the garage.

When you pour the garage slab a seat is formed 1/2" lower than the slab & goes back far enough for the door to sit in, separate from the driveway. The driveway should be level with the recess, it forms a weather seal so water doesn't come in under the door.

 

[Sumboodie]

When you pour the garage slab a seat is formed 1/2" lower than the slab & goes back far enough for the door to sit in, separate from the driveway. The driveway should be level with the recess, it forms a weather seal so water doesn't come in under the door.

Must be a local thing. I've never seen that.

 

[The Cobbler]

never seen a garage door close on a driveway. always see them inboard of the garage, closing on the pad . a taper to run water away is normal .
maybe post a pic or 2?

 

[CraigStu]

I suspect that his term 'driveway' is more about the height of the surface than about the driveway actually coming into the garage. OP, can you provide a picture?

 

[PCustoms]

I think I understand the OP.

He's got a thicker door then what he had before. Sounds like he needs to cut and chisel the "step" in his floor to match the new door.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Must be a local thing. I've never seen that.

Local? No.
It’s actually an IRC “thing” now- has been for a long time. Enforcement of course, is another matter!

As seen in this pic-
https://www.americanfloormats.com/g...MwO_gOd_Wd4-z-_wmOaEUZrSZVhGbiCoaAq4DEALw_wcB

 

[Kaizen]

Local? No.
It’s actually an IRC “thing” now- has been for a long time. Enforcement of course, is another matter!

As seen in this pic-
https://www.americanfloormats.com/g...MwO_gOd_Wd4-z-_wmOaEUZrSZVhGbiCoaAq4DEALw_wcB

Man I can’t imagine that working well in ice country.


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[Bert_]

Local? No.
It’s actually an IRC “thing” now- has been for a long time. Enforcement of course, is another matter!

As seen in this pic-
https://www.americanfloormats.com/g...MwO_gOd_Wd4-z-_wmOaEUZrSZVhGbiCoaAq4DEALw_wcB

The key here is that even in the link the door does not rest on the driveway. It's part of the building slab.

I would rather see a 10* or so slope that extends under the door. A flat cutout like the link still doesn't do anything to make the water drain away.

 

[Bert_]

The OP's fix it to cut the lip back an inch or two.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Man I can’t imagine that working well in ice country.


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Works very well, it's one part of a home that was never on a punch list. It's a cheap easy detail to keep water and debris from getting under the door.

 

[Bert_]

Works very well, it's one part of a home that was never on a punch list. It's a cheap easy detail to keep water and debris from getting under the door.

The link shows it being flat. I would think water would sit there and freeze?

 

[glentre]

That's correct. The "seat" or door pocket is a recess cut or formed into the garage slab, not the outer apron or driveway. The concrete apron meets the back of the seat recess and the apron is pitched away from the garage. It's better than the door closing on an angled outside apron flush with the garage slab because driven rain cannot get in.

Glen

 

[Renegade1LI]

The link shows it being flat. I would think water would sit there and freeze?

If done correctly it slopes away from the garage.

 

[Kaizen]

If done correctly it slopes away from the garage.

Still I have to wonder why it wouldn’t freeze shut on those ice driven rain days when everything freezes?


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[timewarp]

To answer the original question, I would get a concrete saw or an abrasive blade for a circular saw that you can set the depth the same as the step in the slab. Then cut across the opening far enough back so there will be clearance for the door, then using a grinder with a concrete grinding wheel to cut back to the groove you cut with the saw to make your step further back into the garage.

 

[Synchony1]

First, thanks for all the replies. Second, pardon my ignorance & to those who said the concrete garage slab is still part of the garage & not the driveway - you are correct. So the garage slab is cut about 1" lower going from the end of the garage to a 'separated space' (again pardon my ignorance - expansion joint?) (where weeds grow) before the actual driveway. So someone said it correctly, it appears the new door doesn't 'fit' where the old door use to. Someone posted that a small piece of the garage floor might need to be 'cut away' and then grind-ed flat is what I think is the solution. Now the question becomes = will the garage store installer pay to have that done (as it is their door that doesn't sit flush with the 1" indentation). I'll see what the mgr from the garage door company has to say. Thanks again. I hope everyone can imagine what I said w/o a pic.

 

[Wrench97]

Probably not, next question if lower the door another 1" is the door 1" higher then the header or are you going to have a 1" air gap at the top?
I sounds like you went from a non-insulated or very low R-Value door to a more insulated one(thicker) is that correct?

Does the door seal on the floor at it's current location?

 

[Renegade1LI]

I doubt the installer would pay sounds like the recess isn't that big. With the door down mark a line about 1/4" from back of door and depending on what you have to cut it with, saw or grinder use a straight edge and cut to depth required. Than remove the cut piece with the grinder flush to existing, done.

 

[Synchony1]

Wrench97 - yes - I went from a (again pardon my ignorance) 2-ply (Steel with foam insulation) to Steel Exterior/polyurethane/steel interior door -so yes it is (probably) a little thicker. But I did have a rep. from the company come out and measure and was told it would fit. The rubber gasket does go down the 1" but we do see light coming up in parts of the door. I also measured a 1" piece of PVC and it slips under the gasket when placed there AFTER the door is closed. So that is why I know the door is not closing where it use to.

 

[Wrench97]

If the door is not sealing at the floor then they are going to have to address that somehow.

 

[Sumboodie]

Man I can’t imagine that working well in ice country.


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My garage slab slopes to the door slightly (like 1" in 15ft). I ended up putting a rubber sill glued to the floor to stop the snow melt from collecting at the door as the door would freeze shut constantly.

Was told at the time I couldn't have a floor drain because it wasn't allowed on a septic.
Not true.
Also makes a humidity issue since there's no place for it to go.