New floor in old garage

[katit]

Folks, I need your opinion/advice on some of the things.

1. I have experience with epoxy on a floor and it proved to work very well for my needs. So, my new floor will be coated with epoxy, thats done deal.

2. My current floor is old and there was no vapor barrier so I do have 2 spots where water came through the slab and lifted epoxy. I don't consider it epoxy failure, it's more of a floor problem. So, on new floor I plan to install barrier. What is "barrier" ? Is that just a plain plastic film that I put over gravel? Or below gravel? Does it have to be seamless? Does it have to wrap slab sides? Is it special material? If someone has info on that - would be great, pictures will be even better.

3. Heating. We don't have much winter here in St. Louis. Maybe few weeks of sub-zero. I'm not working out of my garage nor I'm maintaining specific temperature. Currently I use through-the-wall heat/cool in my 400sqft garage and it takes about 30 minutes to warm up garage even in coldest weather so I can work more or less comfortably. I just need to have enough heat to be able to work within 1hr max in coldest time (2 weeks per year) if my car breaks. Not much requirements here and I plan on using heatpump from mini-split for that (new garage 600sqft). Is there a problem? Should I inbvest into in-ground and if so, why?

4. Prices I got: $800 - demolition, $600 - layout/grade (forms for scissor lift), $500 labor to pour concrete and finish, $1100 concrete itself (6 inch slab)
Does it sound good? I want to do part of work myself. Is demolition a big deal? If someone did that, can you estimate time/effort? I'm in average physical form with no back problems I do want to make this project as economical as possible. Do I need 6 inch slab? My scissor lift will be fine with 4inches, what is the purpose of 6 inch other then being more "solid"?

5. How long does it take after concrete poured to be good (on safe side) to apply epoxy?

6. in 23x24 garage, do I need to make expansion joint in a middle? House is old 65yr with pretty stabilized soil..

7. In my current house I went with expensive epoxy and used water-based primer specifically to battle moisture. Do I understand right that if I protect slab against moisture then I can get away without primer and can go with cheaper brand (100% solids of course) like Rustoleum pro?

8. Do I need to grind new slab? Any special prepwork needed?

9. What else I can do "while I'm there"? I only think about radiant heat which I tend to skip, but what else can be burried into floor while there? I will have PVC for lift hydraulics and probably one 5gal reservuar to collect water from lift insets when I wash garage.

Thanks for any advice/thought. I'm really exciting as I think this will be my house for very long time..

 

[katit]

Lot's of response Could you at least comment on 2,6,8 and 9? I read almost all topics in this forum and got some info..

 

[AlphaGarage]

I'll take a shot at 5 & 6 and let your concrete guy handle the rest, well I'll also comment on 4.

You'll need to wait 28 days after the pour for the concrete to cure - then coat. Tell your concrete guy you'd like a "light broom finish" and to not use any sealers. With that finish you won't need to grind, but you should chemically etch the floor.

With our system we recommend a primer. Sure you can go with a cheap brand, just like you can pour a 1" pad instead of a 4" pad. For example, a big box coating will be about 4 mils thick, ours is about 24 mils, which will be able to withstand impact better?

About doing your own demo... by the time you rent the debris box and tools to demo you're going to be close to $500 - not to mention your time and wear and tear on your back. I like saving money by doing my own work also, but some tasks are better left to others - in my book large concrete demo is one of them (mudding sheetrock is another).

 

[katit]

My contractor wants to put concrete with fiber instead of metal mesh. Is there a problem? Should I pay for putting metal inside? It's 23x24 garage